Just Fishing's 09 Tahoe Build thread

[Just Fishing]

I was always told to use cheap conventional oil when first firing them off? Maybe it doesn't matter anymore but thats what I did on my avalanche. Cheapest conventional they had at walmart and an ac delco filter.

Yeah, knowing that you will only run it for 10-20 min before changing the oil.

I had this on hand, and i don't plan to run it in the future.
So I'm more than happy to use it up..

Stuff cost me like $15 a gallon, so i used it while testing the thrust bearing knowing i was pulling the engine once i was sure i wouldn't destroy a new crank.

 

[pwtr02ss]

Yeah, knowing that you will only run it for 10-20 min before changing the oil.

I had this on hand, and i don't plan to run it in the future.
So I'm more than happy to use it up..

Stuff cost me like $15 a gallon, so i used it while testing the thrust bearing knowing i was pulling the engine once i was sure i wouldn't destroy a new crank.

Yea, I ran mine about 20 min total then changed the oil.

I just bought some High Zinc VR1 for my lawn mower and pressure washer lol

 

[Just Fishing]

Well I fired up the hoe last night.

I had tried to spin the engine with the starter and no plugs to get an oil pressure reading before.
Ran the battery down trying.

I finally decided that i probably just couldn't get enough rpm.
And last time i used straight 30 weight...

So i went with install the plugs and fire it up.

Running i Didn't get any oil pressure, so i started wondering if i forgot to reconnect the pressure sensor or something.

I listened for a sec, then decided that yup no oil flow.

I played around with the oil cooler lines, confirmed no oil in there.
So i used my prime tool to force oil in there.

Anti drainback in the filter fkd me but atleast i got a little more oil to the top end.

Few more tries and i decided i had two choices.

Level the engine, pull the filter and prime the pump through the filter inlet.

Messy, but the last time i did that it worked.
Hard part is i need to have the tahoe sitting so oil won't flow out while i struggle with the filter.

Other option,
Pull the power steering mount and do it right.

So i went with that.
I pulled the plug and found it totally dry.

Weird since i already primed it once...

Oil pressure achieved.

I did run this longer than i had hoped w/o oil flow...

Hopefully I'm not doing this crap again lol

 

[Just Fishing]

Today the task is to finish installing a few things under the hoe, dump the antifreeze back in, and do a heat cycle and change the oil.

Then the fun begins, crossing fingers.

 

[Just Fishing]

I also created a new tune for the 6.0

I recall that i had never ran a "write entire" until the last flash where i started running super rich.
I did an o2 sensor replacement about that time frame as well.

The more i learn i decided I'm better off starting with the stock 5.3 tune, but with the displacement updated to reflect the 6.0.

Right off the bat, it doesn't smell as rich.
So I'll keep that as my base tune for now.

Only real concern would be the timing table.
Comparing the other sample, the 5.3 tune goes higher under load and rpm vs what i have been using.

I didn't look through the other tables that would change it, so i assume the real difference will be there.

Working on motivation to get back to work.

Biggest pita will be with the coolant.
Right now it's in a 5 gallon bucket.
No spout, so I'm expecting to make a mess.

I'm tempted to see if i can't find a lid with the spout, but i doubt I'll bother... lol

 

[Tonyrodz]

I also created a new tune for the 6.0

I recall that i had never run a "write entire" until the last flash where i started running super rich.
I did an o2 sensor replacement about that time frame as well.

The more i learn i decided I'm better off starting with the stock 5.3 tune, but with the displacement updated to reflect the 6.0.

Right off the bat, it doesn't smell as rich.
So I'll keep that as my base tune for now.

Only real concern would be the timing table.
Comparing the other sample, the 5.3 tune goes higher under load and rpm vs what i have been using.

I didn't look through the other tables that would change it, so i assume the real difference will be there.

Working on motivation to get back to work.

Biggest pita will be with the coolant.
Right now it's in a 5 gallon bucket.
No spout, so I'm expecting to make a mess.

I'm tempted to see if i can't find a lid with the spout, but i doubt I'll bother... lol

Cut an oil qt bottle, and use the top as a funnel.

 

[iamdub]

Biggest pita will be with the coolant.
Right now it's in a 5 gallon bucket.
No spout, so I'm expecting to make a mess.

I'm tempted to see if i can't find a lid with the spout, but i doubt I'll bother... lol

If you can't find one with a spout, just get a plain lid (with a seal) and drill/cut a hole in it. If you're already at the hardware store and you wanna get fancy, you can get watertight fittings and a length of hose and make a lid with a spout. I'd prefer those few bucks and minutes of labor over spilling and wasting coolant everywhere.

 

[Just Fishing]

I recall the local grocery store had the spout lids a few weeks back, I might head on over there, assuming the S10's battery didn't die.

and I also let the registration lapse on it... lol

I'm thinking about just cutting a slit in the lid, maybe i'll get creative with it.

Important thing first, get all of the things done that require me to get under the vehicle done first.
Like I forgot to reinstall a heat shield on the side of the transmission.
the plan was to fill the transmission, and then see if the dipstick tube seal is leaking or not.
But I did remember to reconnect the line pressure gauge.
I have nice solid steady pressure there.
I also got a reading during the no spark plug cranking, that made me feel quite happy.

 

[Just Fishing]

Took the hoe for a little drive today...























It went pretty well, after a few shifts the transmission started firming everything up.
I'm not calling it gtg yet, but the shifts are "pleasant"
So I need to reduce some slippage allowed in the converter, and up the pressures in the converter a bit after reducing the allowed slippage...

And for the life of me, I can't get back to the menu where it allows me to do the transmission fast adapts, where it runs the clutches and you have to hold the brake while it does it's thing.

I got it to do it once with the knock off tech2, but it's no longer a thing apparently

 

[Just Fishing]

Oh yeah, so far with just the single transmission cooler, my cooler line pressure is much lower.
Before i was getting about 75-90 psi with the coolers bypassed.

Now I'm getting 35-50psi
I expect it to lower slightly once I add in the radiator cooler, but probably not by much.

 

[Just Fishing]

And for the coolant,
I went with a slit in the lid, that allowed just enough control to not make a mess.

With the 5-gallon bucket, and an un-opened 1 gallon mixed in with some distilled water to make 2 gallons.
I had just enough to top off the coolant level.

Lucky!!
But I was prepared to add that last gallon of distilled water I have on hand if need be.

Also distilled water has been rationed here recently.
Wife managed to score some about a month ago for me, limit 2 gallons.

 

[Tonyrodz]

And for the coolant,
I went with a slit in the lid, that allowed just enough control to not make a mess.

With the 5-gallon bucket, and an un-opened 1 gallon mixed in with some distilled water to make 2 gallons.
I had just enough to top off the coolant level.

Lucky!!
But I was prepared to add that last gallon of distilled water I have on hand if need be.

Also distilled water has been rationed here recently.
Wife managed to score some about a month ago for me, limit 2 gallons.

Why is it rationed?

 

[Just Fishing]

Why is it rationed?

I think it's used for medical equipment.

 

[pwtr02ss]

Took the hoe for a little drive today...























It went pretty well, after a few shifts the transmission started firming everything up.
I'm not calling it gtg yet, but the shifts are "pleasant"
So I need to reduce some slippage allowed in the converter, and up the pressures in the converter a bit after reducing the allowed slippage...

And for the life of me, I can't get back to the menu where it allows me to do the transmission fast adapts, where it runs the clutches and you have to hold the brake while it does it's thing.

I got it to do it once with the knock off tech2, but it's no longer a thing apparently

I think you have to do that through the scanner. There should be an area in the transmission section that allows you to do the fast adapts along "cleaning" if you want. I've not done it personally but that's what I remember from the videos I watched a while back.

 

[Just Fishing]

I think you have to do that through the scanner. There should be an area in the transmission section that allows you to do the fast adapts along "cleaning" if you want. I've not done it personally but that's what I remember from the videos I watched a while back.

Yeah, there should be two options from what I remember, and from what I see in other models.
One to just reset the learned adapts.
and the second to perform the adapt

Maybe it's somewhere else, but I have yet to find it.

Meh, oh well it's doing pretty good.

Mostly I was worried about me changing those clutch clearances so much.
the worry would be if I were to create a bind, broken shells, shafts, etc.

If someone happens to have a tech2 could check to see if it's available on a 09 Tahoe (under K) with a 6 speed...
I'm looking under powertrain, transmission, special functions
Maybe something got corrupted on my tech2

 

[Just Fishing]

New tune created, upped the shift pressures and the tcc apply pressure by 5%
and I reduced the allowed amount of TCC slippage from 20% to 10%


I also didn't mention it, but I replaced the heater T's with new GM units while I had everything apart.

GM PN
15055343
15055342

For the life of me, I can't figure out what the difference is, but this is what my tahoe had, one black, one "white"

I thought about the metal ones, but it was less effort for me to just use ebay.

But after I made the order, I find out about these little plastic gears in the seat lumbar that strip out over time.
And I can hear the motor buzzing, but nothing adjusts.
that same company makes little metal gears to replace the plastic ones.

 

[pwtr02ss]

New tune created, upped the shift pressures and the tcc apply pressure by 5%
and I reduced the allowed amount of TCC slippage from 20% to 10%


I also didn't mention it, but I replaced the heater T's with new GM units while I had everything apart.

GM PN
15055343
15055342

For the life of me, I can't figure out what the difference is, but this is what my tahoe had, one black, one "white"

I thought about the metal ones, but it was less effort for me to just use ebay.

But after I made the order, I find out about these little plastic gears in the seat lumbar that strip out over time.
And I can hear the motor buzzing, but nothing adjusts.
that same company makes little metal gears to replace the plastic ones.

My lumbar hasn't worked since 2013. I asked questions on here but never got an answer. Hopefully you can figure it out.

 

[Just Fishing]

My lumbar hasn't worked since 2013. I asked questions on here but never got an answer. Hopefully you can figure it out.

Yeah, I did some reading trying to figure out what the issue was early on.
I found some info where this plastic rib cage looking thing breaks and you lose it.
I believe that's what happened on my S10, it made the driver seat terrible to sit in.
Also, a big factor for just buying something else.

One these trucks, you have two types
One is a manual adjustment, lots of info there saying a cable breaks, or some part where the cable attaches to.

I thought this was the part I needed, but then while looking through parts to fix my entertainment system, I ended up in the escalade parts...

Then i see the exact seat I have, and then the lumbar support with motors!!

that lead me down a new road that included gear driven adjustments that resemble the power folding mirrors.
and that lead me to find the replacement parts!

The back of the seat snaps off, from there the motor should be visible.
I just need to confirm I have the correct type and then I'll make the order.

I'll do a write up here and in the interior section when I get there.

 

[Just Fishing]

So far things are going well *knock on wood*

I still have that valve train rattle sound when the engine is hot.
But it it's quieter than last time around.
I suspect it will get louder when I swap out the 30 weight break-in oil, but the hope is that increasing the lifter preload to .090 helped.

My thought is that I need to go to a full .100 for the lifter pre-load.
But now I can do that via shims instead of expensive pushrods, issue is probably the heavy double pac springs on the AFR heads.
And those lifters state .050 - .100 preload.

I wish i bought different ones this time around.
I don't like the extra oiling feature anyways, and i don't think I need it with the full roller rockers.

 

[Just Fishing]

Found a nice video telling me how to get the fast learn to fire off using HP Tuners

Adding the FastLearnStatus, it gave me directions to place in Drive.
then a nice status as it did it's thing.

Now i'm stuck in between gears, but that's normal.
IIRC I just need to wait it out.