pwtr02ss
Full Access Member
You'll find it eventually. Could've been a failure on a new part, who knows.
Just Fishing's 09 Tahoe Build thread
- Thread starter Just Fishing
- Start date
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You'll find it eventually. Could've been a failure on a new part, who knows.
OP
OP
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
coming down with a cold this morning, and feeling button clicky today.
noticed the 6.0 blocks "in stock number" going down.
and it has a rebate!!!
fk it.
I Ordered just the block, cam, and gaskets.
pending to see if i reuse the crank and rods.
also need help with the piston selection.
lifter choice pending.
I figure with summit, over $100 = free shipping so i can break it up a bit.
noticed the 6.0 blocks "in stock number" going down.
and it has a rebate!!!
fk it.
I Ordered just the block, cam, and gaskets.
pending to see if i reuse the crank and rods.
also need help with the piston selection.
lifter choice pending.
I figure with summit, over $100 = free shipping so i can break it up a bit.
pwtr02ss
Full Access Member
Nice. Your 5.3 block is aluminum, correct?
OP
OP
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
pwtr02ss
Full Access Member
I was thinking it was 4wd and I thought all 4wd came with aluminum. It looked iron in the cam bearing pic.
Yes, iron blocks are crazy heavy. Like picking up a damn BB Chevy block.
OP
OP
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
If i could justify the $$, i could go with a 6.2 aluminum block for about 1k more than the 6.0 iron block.
but yeah, the weight sorta surprised me.
especially how fkn top heavy that thing is on the engine stand!
it's getting kicked off of the stand soon, but i'll use it one last time to find the center balance location of the block.
I also used some caliper grease on the stand pivot when i swapped out the bolts (it's what was in reach), it might be a little too slick now.
OP
OP
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
so looking at converter choices.
what series is the one that everyone went with?
https://www.circledspecialties.com/6l8090
I still need to email them as well.
what series is the one that everyone went with?
https://www.circledspecialties.com/6l8090
I still need to email them as well.
pwtr02ss
Full Access Member
I bought the cheap one. I think $499? 4L60 though. 278mm IIRC.
Edit, yes, looked up the order. 278mm 26-2800. Their customer service was great. Figure out your camshaft before you buy the convertor though. Once you have that, shoot them an email and they will tell you their opinion on the best option
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
I bet you can sell the old block and assorted parts.
OP
OP
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
Kind of what i was thinking, it's a good looking block overall.
Really no rust on it either, rare for northern utah.
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Thought Utah was dry--ish. It would be good for someone who'd like to build their own motor. Good starting point.
iamdub
Full Access Member
Having bought it at 147K, I can't say with certainty that mine has never been messed with. But, here's how my bolts were and how they went back:
I wanna say this is haw they are from the factory as I believe it was @tgui that posted up about the odd mismatch for the bottom bolts and they were the same as mine.
OP
OP
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
Having bought it at 147K, I can't say with certainty that mine has never been messed with. But, here's how my bolts were and how they went back:
I wanna say this is haw they are from the factory as I believe it was @tgui that posted up about the odd mismatch for the bottom bolts and they were the same as mine.
Looks identical to mine.
OP
OP
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
Winter + snow = salt on the roads.
Part of what drew me to the hoe was how freaking clean it is.
Like no rust on the frame!
the engine has no signs of corrosion
Usually you would see it on under the intake, alternator, front cover etc.
I ignored the obvious red flags of the long list of owners.
Many having the how for a year or less.
Part of why i want to just dump the engine, so far nothing to explain the amount of metal it's producing.
going back, i would make the same mistake.
Mmmm
even more Mmmm once the 6.0 is up and running.
Betcha can’t wait!Winter + snow = salt on the roads.
Part of what drew me to the hoe was how freaking clean it is.
Like no rust on the frame!
the engine has no signs of corrosion
Usually you would see it on under the intake, alternator, front cover etc.
I ignored the obvious red flags of the long list of owners.
Many having the how for a year or less.
Part of why i want to just dump the engine, so far nothing to explain the amount of metal it's producing.
going back, i would make the same mistake.
View attachment 274182
Mmmm
even more Mmmm once the 6.0 is up and running.
OP
OP
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
Last edited:
OP
OP
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
and i got a reply back from circle d suggesting this bad boy.
https://www.circledspecialties.com/6l80e-hp-series-278mm
Thoughts on the "Optional billet front/HD stator"?
https://www.circledspecialties.com/6l80e-hp-series-278mm
Thoughts on the "Optional billet front/HD stator"?
OP
OP
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
I also went through my pump last night, it's not terrible.
the housing looks pretty good
but the rotor and slide looks like it might have pumped/grinded up some little bearing bits.
I did some light cleanup of the rough bits, and i think i could use it.
but should i...
it's a $160 pump.
It was pumping just fine, my oil pressure was great and stuff.
the idle oil pressure did start going under 40psi hot...
but i could still pin the oil pressure gauge at wot.
the housing looks pretty good
but the rotor and slide looks like it might have pumped/grinded up some little bearing bits.
I did some light cleanup of the rough bits, and i think i could use it.
but should i...
it's a $160 pump.
It was pumping just fine, my oil pressure was great and stuff.
the idle oil pressure did start going under 40psi hot...
but i could still pin the oil pressure gauge at wot.
pwtr02ss
Full Access Member
They told me the billet cover would be a waste of money at my power level. I kinda wish I had just did the upgrade but its probably a waste of money.
I also went through my pump last night, it's not terrible.
the housing looks pretty good
but the rotor and slide looks like it might have pumped/grinded up some little bearing bits.
I did some light cleanup of the rough bits, and i think i could use it.
but should i...
it's a $160 pump.
It was pumping just fine, my oil pressure was great and stuff.
the idle oil pressure did start going under 40psi hot...
but i could still pin the oil pressure gauge at wot.
IMO, save the billet upgrade on the TC and buy a new pump. This is the pump I bought. My brother runs it on 99% of the engines he builds. https://briantooleyracing.com/chevrolet-performance-oil-pump-high-volume-12696357-12696357.html
edit: here it is at summit https://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-12710303
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Did you see any metal flakes in the oil pressure sensor filter?I also went through my pump last night, it's not terrible.
the housing looks pretty good
but the rotor and slide looks like it might have pumped/grinded up some little bearing bits.
I did some light cleanup of the rough bits, and i think i could use it.
but should i...
it's a $160 pump.
It was pumping just fine, my oil pressure was great and stuff.
the idle oil pressure did start going under 40psi hot...
but i could still pin the oil pressure gauge at wot.
