Is This Camshaft Reusable? Or Too Pitted?

[Geotrash]

Next question.... how do you hold the harmonic balancer still in order to torque the crankshaft? And 240 ft/lbs on the first pass? I'm gonna have to borrow a heavier duty torque wrench.

This is the proper tool. Requires removing the starter to install it, which isn't as big a deal as it sounds.

Pardon Our Interruption

But I went another way when I did mine. I used the ARP harmonic balancer bolt because 1/ it's reusable, and 2/ it can be torqued to final value without using an angle gauge. I gave it some good ugga duggas with my impact wrench and it hasn't moved a lick in 3 years.

 

[Foggy]

This is the proper tool. Requires removing the starter to install it, which isn't as big a deal as it sounds.

Pardon Our Interruption

But I went another way when I did mine. I used the ARP harmonic balancer bolt because 1/ it's reusable, and 2/ it can be torqued to final value without using an angle gauge. I gave it some good ugga duggas with my impact wrench and it hasn't moved a lick in 3 years.

Yup. Right on the money Geotrash
Get the $35 ARP balancer bolt. Put a bit of blue loctite on the threads
and hit it with and impact.. No need to hold the crank still. Just make sure
you are familiar with what that particular impact does.
I used my impact that I generally use for installing wheels. So I know it's settings

 

[strutaeng]

Ya, the torque specs for the harmonic balancer OE bolt is nuts. I installed the flex plate locking tool when I rebuilt my engine on the engine stand. I put a little dinky 1x2 under the harmonic balancer because the entire engine deflects downward when you are torqing it. I saw the 1x2 deflecting sideways a lot. Almost snapped. Probably wasn't safe TBH.

Then you have to turn like a certain degrees, which is even harder. You really need like a 6' cheater bar to do that job if you are a normal human, LoL.

 

[jmo2610]

Well I ended up borrowing a heavy duty torque wrench and flywheel tool from a friend, so that worked out. But 240 ft/lbs... I'll be honest.... I turned as hard as I could and I couldn't make that thing click. So we're just gonna say it was on there tight. I wish I would've bought the ARP bolt. I had bought a stock one already so that's what I put on. Hell, turning 140 degrees after it's at 37 lbs wasn't particularly easy.

What is y'all's preferred cleaner for the heads? I got the gasket area pretty clean already with brake cleaner and a plastic scraper, but the gunk on the cylinder heads is pretty nasty. I don't want to be too aggressive there.

 

[jmo2610]

Can you pressure wash aluminum heads?

 

[strutaeng]

Can you pressure wash aluminum heads?

Yeah. Just don't use stuff like Purple Power. Dry the valve ends with compressed air immediately and spray some WD-40 to prevent corrosion.

Were you asking about cleaning the surface that bolts down to the engine? I would say plastic spatula. You don't want to use anything abrasive or something that could gouge the aluminum.

 

[Geotrash]

Well I ended up borrowing a heavy duty torque wrench and flywheel tool from a friend, so that worked out. But 240 ft/lbs... I'll be honest.... I turned as hard as I could and I couldn't make that thing click. So we're just gonna say it was on there tight. I wish I would've bought the ARP bolt. I had bought a stock one already so that's what I put on. Hell, turning 140 degrees after it's at 37 lbs wasn't particularly easy.

What is y'all's preferred cleaner for the heads? I got the gasket area pretty clean already with brake cleaner and a plastic scraper, but the gunk on the cylinder heads is pretty nasty. I don't want to be too aggressive there.

I used permatex gasket remover with a plastic scraper on the gasket surfaces and engine degreaser on everything else. I used to have a parts washer in my old house, and that was the bomb. If you're planning to send the heads out for checking and a valve job, the machine shop will clean them up and send them back looking like new!

 

[West 1]

For that one bolt, I believe I pulled the bracket off that covers the bolt. The picture points out your issue glad you got it whipped.
To tighten to 240 lbs. I have an Ingersol Rand 1/2" air impact. I tighten with it and leave it. Have not held the crank to do this yet. Is it perfect, No. The IR I have gets it really tight. Rated to 300 FT pound of torque. Some of the new electric impacts have even more power but you would need to dial back to avoid snapping the bolt. I usually torque everything properly but this bolt and the front axle bolts I use the impact and accept they are tight enough since my torque wrench is only rated to 150 ft pounds..

 

[jmo2610]

I did a quick google on this because I felt like I’d read it before, and my God, I didn’t realize the depth of the debate.

Antiseize on Acdelco OEM spark plugs or no?

 

[j91z28d1]

ACDELCO I do very light amount. never had issues.


the debate I found seemed to be centered around ngk not recommeing it or atleast not needing it. I tend to replace plugs pretty regularly, so I like them to come out easily.

 

[donjetman]

I always have. aluminum heads, steel plugs. Dis-similar metal thing for me.

 

[West 1]

For cleaning the Heads and Block surface before installing new gaskets I use a quality gasket scraper. I keep a sharpening stone handy and keep the scraper very sharp. Slide it along the flat surfaces and it will work loose any gasket material stuck to the surface. Takes time. I bet I spend 30-45 minutes per head and per block surface. Once this is done I wipe them down with lacquer thinner to remove any grease, oli and dirt. If you get stupid you can do damage digging in with a sharp gasket scraper so start off lightly and you will get a feel for how much pressure is safe to use while scraping the surface but be smart, keep it sharp and the job gets done. Avoid any of the sanding pads available that work with a drill. They ruin the gasket surfaces by leaving high and low spots the gasket can’t seal on. The material looks great to your naked eye but when magnified you see the uneven surface they leave behind. The sanding pads also leave fine pad material behind that finds its way into engine bearings and cause damage.

 

[West 1]

Some plug companies are using anti stick technology to avoid plugs getting stuck in aluminum heads probably the reason some are debating. To be safe, steel will stick in aluminum and anti seize is a good idea to help avoid it. Does not take a lot, just a film on the threads and you are good to go. I would not consider putting steel plugs in aluminum heads without it. Steel plugs into cast iron heads, no issue.

 

[j91z28d1]

Some plug companies are using anti stick technology to avoid plugs getting stuck in aluminum heads probably the reason some are debating. To be safe, steel will stick in aluminum and anti seize is a good idea to help avoid it. Does not take a lot, just a film on the threads and you are good to go. I would not consider putting steel plugs in aluminum heads without it. Steel plugs into cast iron heads, no issue.

I believe that's the debate. ngk says they have a plating or something that keeps them from seizing and all the added ain't seize does is hurt the ground connection from plug to head.


I don't see it being an issue but that's what I've heard.
they do have a conductive type dielectric you could probably use too.

 

[Fless]

Antiseize on spark plug threads can skew the torque settings when installing, and the plugs can be over-tightened.

 

[jmo2610]

Okay non-AFM valley covers... When I bought my kit, I didn't really understand what all I was buying, and now in hindsight, I see that the shop I bought from was out of stock on the covers. All I'm finding in stock are weird Amazon stores or verrry expensive stores. Anyone have a recommendation for a reputable part that doesn't break the bank?

OR should I just use the block off plugs and replace the gasket on the OEM cover? Would that do the trick?

 

[donjetman]

Amazon non-afm valley cover w/gasket and bolts for $56 is whats on mine

 

[jmo2610]

Well, here we are... reassembled. A few things:
1. It's idling like total dogcrap. Is there something in the tuning that turns off the VVT, or does that happen when you change the timing cover that's non-VVT and tune it to delete the AFM? Throwing a P0010 code. There was no place for the plug to go on the new timing cover, so it's just tied up, unplugged.

2. I'm guessing maybe I have an exhaust leak...? Totally getting the "glub glub glub" sound out of the exhaust pipe in the rear. Also throwing a P219B code. In this process, I had to remove one of the O2 sensors on the passenger side, but I am 100% sure it's reinstalled and plugged back in. I also couldn't see where any vacuum leaks would happen, though I guess it's reasonable to think I missed something.

3. Turns out I'm not a "while you're in there" kind of guy. I regret this decision so much. I wish I would've just taken the one head off, replaced the broken lifter (or even the set of 4 on that section) and just risked the cam. This has royally sucked. It's all back together, still throwing codes, pretty sure I have an oil leak somewhere. I can't believe people do this as a hobby.

 

[mikez71]

You will need a tune to turn off codes for AFM and VVT.

If you have not turned off AFM in tune (?), that could be why it's not running right.

 

[jmo2610]

You will need a tune to turn off codes for AFM and VVT.

If you have not turned off AFM in tune (?), that could be why it's not running right.

No it's definitely been tuned to turn off AFM. My guy with the EFI Live tuner did not see any place where VVT is mentioned. He did say he thinks they call it camphasing, which he did disable. That's where we got with the tuning.