I need some insight on a motor swap

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triker97

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No problem...... I just don't see the point to 'hot rod' a Tahoe or Yukon XL.... I am the type to make it efficient and reliable, ..... keep it maintained and it drives pretty good.

The only thing I wish to improve on my Yukon XL is to stiffen up the 'sway' in a turn.
I'm not trying to 'hot rod' persay, but just something that'll make people look at it go "I wasn't expecting that shit" like I said this is my daily driver as well, so I don't want nothin too crazy
 

Fless

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Well the reason I'm looking at new motors is because I believe that the main bearing on my crank is loping, I still have to get a video up but the sound only happens when I take my foot off the gas

You use the word "loping" but do you mean "lobing"? As in an out-of-round crankshaft journal?

SWAG If it's vibration or noise on decel, maybe the harmonic balancer or the rear diff is worn.
 
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triker97

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You use the word "loping" but do you mean "lobing"? As in an out-of-round crankshaft journal?

SWAG If it's vibration or noise on decel, maybe the harmonic balancer or the rear diff is worn.
I do need to change my front main seal and when I do that I am going to be replacing the harmonic balancer it's one of the few pulleys I have yet to replace and yes I did mean lobing, thank you for correcting me. I did post a link to the video I took, I'm not sure how well it'll sound though
 

Marky Dissod

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4.10 will have nothing on the highway, 3.73 is bad enough all petered out before 100MpH
I would disagree about 3.73.
As would I.
I was once lucky enough to borrow and drive a GMT900 Tahoe Z56 with 4L60E and 4.10.
Engine and transmission were both tuned, but GM OE cam.
It's THE reason why I am so disappointed in mine and want 4.10 axles.
 

blackelky

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Then don't waste your money. If you must spend, do so wisely, get more bang for your buck.
Your SPID sticker says GU6.
Unfortunately, GU6 is 3.42, which sucks sweaty arse.
You could very easily upgrade that RWD axle from 3.42, to 4.10, AND add a torque sensing limited slip differential, for UNDER $1900.

(That $3800 engine - before installation - could be replicated or even improved upon, for $2850 installed, by a clever shopper with time on his side.)

Back to topic:
4.10 would actually be a good investment, as your metro / urban stop'n'go MpG would actually improve.
4.10 MIGHT cost 2 - 4 highway MpG, depending on how you drive it, but it might be worth the extra SMILES per gallon to you.

My Tahoe has GT4 - that's 3.73 - and I'm sorely dissatisfied; I want 4.10 myself, as soon as I can afford it.
If I had your XL, just before the pcm retune that you should also do, I'd've corrected GM's mistake of 3.42, and upgraded to 4.10.
You could sell that 3.73 to me. I have to change the front diff to 3.73 too right?
 

Joseph Garcia

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Is there anywhere I could find a chart or something that explains the glovebox list?? I'll definitely look into a new diff also
You may find this useful.
 

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Joseph Garcia

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No problem...... I just don't see the point to 'hot rod' a Tahoe or Yukon XL.... I am the type to make it efficient and reliable, ..... keep it maintained and it drives pretty good.

The only thing I wish to improve on my Yukon XL is to stiffen up the 'sway' in a turn.
Hellwig sway bars will make huge improvements in turns.
 

OR VietVet

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If handling is your forte, IMO the Hellwig bars and load range E stiffer sidewalls that are aired up close to the max load rating recommendations, will give you the best feel. I am not so much a fast engine type of guy. I do have a "traditional tune" from BBP and I think the transmission shifting points changes make the bigger difference. Engine reliability is my main concern. I don't care about cushy ride as much as great grip and the ability to "throw" the rig in to a turn or curve or quick response need.
 

mountie

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I am still wondering if the cost of a BlackBear 'mild tune' is really worth the expense, since driving a Yukon XL isn't anywhere near a Nissan 370Z. I completely agree with your post. I spent years as a performance driving instructor. I know how to enter-exit any turn, SMOOTHLY, even if it is a little aggressive. The sway from this Yukon is annoying. Especially if I must perform an 'accident evasion maneuver'..... I don't want to make any extra corrections because the truck is wobbly....

( About the hellwig sway bars.... They suggest using the 'farthest' hole mount first to feel the response, then adjust later if wanted. Out of the 3 holes, I am wondering if the middle hole is the choice?
 

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