High mileage stock suspension wear components parts?

[DESSKI]

Hi, I've got 117k on the Tahoe, 50k of those miles it rode on 22" wheels. I've since replace them with some lighter 20" wheels. I rarely drive it now but I'm about to give it to my daughter and I notice lots of play in the steering and it seems to want road drift on certain highways.

I plan to take it to a 4wd suspension shop and get it check out but don't want to get ripped by some of these shops by replacing suspension component parts that aren't necessarily needed.

Thanks in advance!

 

[treehan77]

Is there a question ?

 

[Yukon John]

Hi, I've got 117k on the Tahoe, 50k of those miles it rode on 22" wheels. I've since replace them with some lighter 20" wheels. I rarely drive it now but I'm about to give it to my daughter and I notice lots of play in the steering and it seems to want road drift on certain highways.

I plan to take it to a 4wd suspension shop and get it check out but don't want to get ripped by some of these shops by replacing suspension component parts that aren't necessarily needed.

Thanks in advance!

I can appreciate your concern..With my 2005 Escalade AWD over 185K miles I experienced the following:

1. Bearing Hub Assemblies..left and right, about $500 per side.
2. Drag Link/Pittman Arm Idler Arm, about $500 A-Z
3. Tie Rod Ends. about $350 A-Z
4. Upper and Lower Ball Joints. about $800 A-Z

Running the 22" Heavy rim and tire assemblies accelerates the wear on all the front suspension components. The bearing hubs are the ones I would check now. Get the front end off the ground and place your hands at 6 and 12...see if you have significant movement...if so it's the bearing hub. If you are hearing a roar in the front from either side = Bearing Hub.

 

[DESSKI]

Thanks Yukon John,

Yeah I'm not too versed with suspension wear since I don't keep vehicles longer than 5 yrs or 55k miles but since it's the only 4wd I own I figured its worth keeping. This could get real expensive that's why I'm inquiring now.

 

[Knope]

Hi, I've got 117k on the Tahoe, 50k of those miles it rode on 22" wheels. I've since replace them with some lighter 20" wheels. I rarely drive it now but I'm about to give it to my daughter and I notice lots of play in the steering and it seems to want road drift on certain highways.

I plan to take it to a 4wd suspension shop and get it check out but don't want to get ripped by some of these shops by replacing suspension component parts that aren't necessarily needed.

Thanks in advance!

I recently upgraded nearly every steering/suspension component, so from first hand experience I'll say that the thing that helped the most was changing the gearbox/power steering pump. I know that's starting with the most expensive option, but I had nearly as much money in replacing the pitman and idler arms, upper & lower intermediate shafts.

My vehicle also had 100k more miles on it when I did these repairs. Your vehicle might have different wear on those components. If I had to do it all over again, I'd definitely start with the upper & lower intermediate steering shaft and move from there.

EDIT*** you could easily put 1k into the steering, but that's still cheaper than a newer vehicle.

 

[DESSKI]

Update... Knope I'm think you are correct that its the steering and or gearbox. What gearbox did you get?

 

[Knope]

That's one of the few items that I didn't purchase myself. My local mechanic handled that, but I'd assume that he got whatever NAPA had in stock.

 

[pnwdan]

I can appreciate your concern..With my 2005 Escalade AWD over 185K miles I experienced the following:

1. Bearing Hub Assemblies..left and right, about $500 per side.
2. Drag Link/Pittman Arm Idler Arm, about $500 A-Z
3. Tie Rod Ends. about $350 A-Z
4. Upper and Lower Ball Joints. about $800 A-Z

Running the 22" Heavy rim and tire assemblies accelerates the wear on all the front suspension components. The bearing hubs are the ones I would check now. Get the front end off the ground and place your hands at 6 and 12...see if you have significant movement...if so it's the bearing hub. If you are hearing a roar in the front from either side = Bearing Hub.

I've found the same parts a lot cheaper on Amazon. Moog, gm,.. all cheaper by far

Do some digging

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

 

[Yukon John]

I've found the same parts a lot cheaper on Amazon. Moog, gm,.. all cheaper by far

Do some digging

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

The prices I gave you weren't DIY parts only...those are A~Z labor and warranty included at a shop...within the last 12 months.

 

[pnwdan]

The prices I gave you weren't DIY parts only...those are A~Z labor and warranty included at a shop.

Oh gotcha