SUP SR
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Forgot to mention that I also added Bilstein 5100 shocks and Bilstein rear springs and a Flowmaster 50 exhaust.
High Mileage Invest Money Or Not?
- Thread starter Aeterna
- Start date
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I replaced the cam and lifters and front differential on my ‘07 Yukon Denali at 272K and don’t regret doing it at all. I had also replaced the transfer case at 260K. What I do regret is trading it in at 300K instead of putting a little more money into it and taking care of some front end stuff.
avalonandl
Full Access Member
The LS engines are very durable. Water pump if not replaced is probably next.
iamdub
Full Access Member
201K miles here. Recently invested into the engine with AFM delete, performance cam, mild head work, etc. Left the rotating assembly alone, bearings and all. No qualms and I'd cruise it anywhere at a moment's notice. As Ron said, knowing the history goes a long way. I know of "only" the past 54K miles, but, at this point, I've been inside every major system except for the trans and it's never even hiccuped.
Buying another used car likely means buying someone else's problems. People don't often sell "good" cars just because. They sell them because it has or is starting to have problems that they don't wanna deal with, so they unload it before they occur or get too serious (read: "expensive"). Those will then be your inherited problems.
Last edited:
avalonandl
Full Access Member
Where do I find the paint code on my Denali. Its in the garage and I might touch up some rust spots since its raining for two days.
I dropped my Tahoe off this past Tuesday and should have it back next Tuesday. Below is what all is getting done and the price.
-Oil Pan Gasket
-Oil Pickup Tube oring
-Oil Cooler Plate seal
-Both Front Axle Seals
-Front Pinion Seal
-new rack and pinion
-greased all the front grease fittings
-Front Driveshaft Ujoints
-Rear Driveshaft Ujoints
-Both exhaust manifold gaskets (removed two busted bolts and replaced all bolts)
-Installed transmission cooler (with bracket not those zip tie things)
-Installed magnaflow 18" muffler (excited about this)
$4400 (give or take a little depending on muffler and tranny cooler bracket work)
-Oil Pan Gasket
-Oil Pickup Tube oring
-Oil Cooler Plate seal
-Both Front Axle Seals
-Front Pinion Seal
-new rack and pinion
-greased all the front grease fittings
-Front Driveshaft Ujoints
-Rear Driveshaft Ujoints
-Both exhaust manifold gaskets (removed two busted bolts and replaced all bolts)
-Installed transmission cooler (with bracket not those zip tie things)
-Installed magnaflow 18" muffler (excited about this)
$4400 (give or take a little depending on muffler and tranny cooler bracket work)
WOW!!!!! Can you do mine too?
Really interested in how your muffler turns out, please post up a video when you can. Are you having the resonator removed too?
If only I could! Nah they are just cutting out the stock muffler and flaring some fresh pipe to flange this new muffler in. At least thats my understanding.
Ill get a vid once I have it back, if memory serves it takes about 1k miles to “break in” a new muffler so i will see if I can get a before and after.
the only thing I think will still need to be done is the lower ball joints probably a year or so from now. Other than that I have my fingers crossed for another 75-100k out of the old girl.
Ill get a vid once I have it back, if memory serves it takes about 1k miles to “break in” a new muffler so i will see if I can get a before and after.
the only thing I think will still need to be done is the lower ball joints probably a year or so from now. Other than that I have my fingers crossed for another 75-100k out of the old girl.
Still cheaper then a down payment on a new truck....... you're now way ahead in the game.
petethepug
Michael
When you’re that familiar with the maint & service on your vehicle, future issues are very routine and not unexpected.
Your also at the point to where technology and aftermarket parts allow almost every service to upgrade something for the price of a factory part.
Put larger sway bars and (well lubed) poly bushings on and your truck will feel better than new.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Your also at the point to where technology and aftermarket parts allow almost every service to upgrade something for the price of a factory part.
Put larger sway bars and (well lubed) poly bushings on and your truck will feel better than new.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
petethepug
Michael
It’s a body roll issue that compares to the lean felt when you turn onto a highway. The rubber bushing should be replaced at 75-100k miles. Replacing with the larger bars removes something we’ve all become so accustomed to that we’re just used to it.
It’s not a performance recommendation, it based on a high milage 1/2 ton vehicle, strengthening the frame to the suspension back to a slightly better than new feel and an overall better driving feel. I’d compare it to having a 150k windshield replaced and how much comfort and clarity is gained as well as the amazement of how used we get to driving with pitted glass.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
It’s not a performance recommendation, it based on a high milage 1/2 ton vehicle, strengthening the frame to the suspension back to a slightly better than new feel and an overall better driving feel. I’d compare it to having a 150k windshield replaced and how much comfort and clarity is gained as well as the amazement of how used we get to driving with pitted glass.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
Looks like I'm late to the party, but here is my view.
Sorry about the long winded post, feel free to skip to the bottom to read my point.
I personally was raised to take care of my vehicles and drive them into the ground.
It has kind of become a challenge to me, to see how long i can keep them going for.
I'm also very mechanically inclined, some formal training but not a mechanic by trade.
I also have an addiction to tools...
Weekdays i spend behind a computer making $$
Weekends i like to tinker in my garage.
I also find it very difficult to find a decent mechanic, if thinking about not doing a job i like to interview the mechanic first.
They don't usually like that. some get all defensive and apparently I'm "mean" or something.
Kids today are so sensitive.
The $cost$ of a given job is often not worth it to me when i can usually do it my self no problem.
I view the money saved as reason to have other toys and projects.
I also like to weigh the purchase of a new fancy tool if the job requires it.
I have done very well doing this.
My wife's car (Saturn aura w/3.5) just turned 267k miles the other day. still running strong.
I want to see it hit 300k, wife is already looking for the next one.
I would like to just drop a new power plant into it and keep rocking it, but the wife wants something newer.
So me, my old 03 S10.
I bought it with about 39k miles in 06
I ran that sucker for ever, even had the frame welded up when the control arm mounts started coming off of the frame...
IIRC it's right around 250-270k miles, lots of hard canyon runs hauling a boat, and plenty of offroad fun.
I rebuilt the rear axle a few years ago.
I believe right around 210k miles.
Went after all of the bearings and seals.
Bearing cages were VERY thin and like razor blades...
didn't touch the ring gear, but it looked pretty good.
G80 still works.
Currently the transmission is on it's way out, from what i have gathered the bushing inside of the transmission pump housing is toast.
causing issues with the TCC lockup (already tried to remedy it with a new valve body).
Losing pressure pretty badly.
Ran it with pressures nearly maxed out via hp tuners, disabled the TCC to prevent it from going kaboom and sending bits through out the trans...
My old vette project ( my avatar),
pretty much i drove that thing stock for a good year and decided what i wanted out of it, after doing some upgrades to the engine, exhaust, and I had the rack rebuilt (turn one).
I ended up burning up some clutches and needed to rebuild the transmission.
Local rebuilders = a joke.
I already had a pretty good idea of what was involved.
Bought some manuals, and a dvd and jumped into it!
I ended up with a pretty sweat transmission in the end, learned a ton.
Transmission is fully upgraded, and setup to manual shift but retained auto function.
Manual shifts = near F1 quick shifts
With the engine, massive C6 brakes, transmission, and exhaust system (headers, 3in exhaust, x-pipes, FM40 x2)
The car screams and is an event every time i take it out.
Daily drove it for a while, it gets old lost some of it's "special event".
That project also lead me into EFI tuning.
Overall it challenged me, and i really learned a ton from it.
Back to my S10,
I had planned to rebuild the transmission (4l60e) on the old S10
since i have the tools and knowledge and all..
700R4 and the 4l60E are mostly the same as far as the main drive train parts, and even the 4l60 parts are used as upgrades to the old 700r4.
but with the rona and other projects piling up, current motorhome refurb project has my garage held hostage, and me needing to get out fkn doors finally bought my current Tahoe.
Big selling point was the old S10 Blazer was a pita.
it has the ZR2 package (03).
Result, i go through ball joints, and bearing hubs left and right.
but i did get pretty good at swapping them.
Then i started thinking about a full size.
Knowing that the full sizes are built waaaay better, i started my search.
Decided in the end i wanted to stay with a suv...
Something with a V8 is a better choice for hauling my boat up the canyons anyways.
That old S10 with the 4.3 had to really work to stay free way speeds going up some of the canyon roads, even with out the boat in tow...
Full sizes with the better build quality, i think this is worth keeping on the road for longer.
So i ended up getting one with higher mileage, right at that 170k mark.
I would never have guessed this truck had that many miles
Not a drop of oil is leaking anywhere.
Also no signs of an oil leak in the past.
Amazing!
My point being,
I think these trucks are worth keeping.
However paying someone else to do the work may get a tad $$
As they age major things may need to be done to them.
But it sounds like you have it figured out.
And sorry about the long winded post, starting my day, I'm feeling motivated!
Sorry about the long winded post, feel free to skip to the bottom to read my point.
I personally was raised to take care of my vehicles and drive them into the ground.
It has kind of become a challenge to me, to see how long i can keep them going for.
I'm also very mechanically inclined, some formal training but not a mechanic by trade.
I also have an addiction to tools...
Weekdays i spend behind a computer making $$
Weekends i like to tinker in my garage.
I also find it very difficult to find a decent mechanic, if thinking about not doing a job i like to interview the mechanic first.
They don't usually like that. some get all defensive and apparently I'm "mean" or something.
Kids today are so sensitive.
The $cost$ of a given job is often not worth it to me when i can usually do it my self no problem.
I view the money saved as reason to have other toys and projects.
I also like to weigh the purchase of a new fancy tool if the job requires it.
I have done very well doing this.
My wife's car (Saturn aura w/3.5) just turned 267k miles the other day. still running strong.
I want to see it hit 300k, wife is already looking for the next one.
I would like to just drop a new power plant into it and keep rocking it, but the wife wants something newer.
So me, my old 03 S10.
I bought it with about 39k miles in 06
I ran that sucker for ever, even had the frame welded up when the control arm mounts started coming off of the frame...
IIRC it's right around 250-270k miles, lots of hard canyon runs hauling a boat, and plenty of offroad fun.
I rebuilt the rear axle a few years ago.
I believe right around 210k miles.
Went after all of the bearings and seals.
Bearing cages were VERY thin and like razor blades...
didn't touch the ring gear, but it looked pretty good.
G80 still works.
Currently the transmission is on it's way out, from what i have gathered the bushing inside of the transmission pump housing is toast.
causing issues with the TCC lockup (already tried to remedy it with a new valve body).
Losing pressure pretty badly.
Ran it with pressures nearly maxed out via hp tuners, disabled the TCC to prevent it from going kaboom and sending bits through out the trans...
My old vette project ( my avatar),
pretty much i drove that thing stock for a good year and decided what i wanted out of it, after doing some upgrades to the engine, exhaust, and I had the rack rebuilt (turn one).
I ended up burning up some clutches and needed to rebuild the transmission.
Local rebuilders = a joke.
I already had a pretty good idea of what was involved.
Bought some manuals, and a dvd and jumped into it!
I ended up with a pretty sweat transmission in the end, learned a ton.
Transmission is fully upgraded, and setup to manual shift but retained auto function.
Manual shifts = near F1 quick shifts
With the engine, massive C6 brakes, transmission, and exhaust system (headers, 3in exhaust, x-pipes, FM40 x2)
The car screams and is an event every time i take it out.
Daily drove it for a while, it gets old lost some of it's "special event".
That project also lead me into EFI tuning.
Overall it challenged me, and i really learned a ton from it.
Back to my S10,
I had planned to rebuild the transmission (4l60e) on the old S10
since i have the tools and knowledge and all..
700R4 and the 4l60E are mostly the same as far as the main drive train parts, and even the 4l60 parts are used as upgrades to the old 700r4.
but with the rona and other projects piling up, current motorhome refurb project has my garage held hostage, and me needing to get out fkn doors finally bought my current Tahoe.
Big selling point was the old S10 Blazer was a pita.
it has the ZR2 package (03).
Result, i go through ball joints, and bearing hubs left and right.
but i did get pretty good at swapping them.
Then i started thinking about a full size.
Knowing that the full sizes are built waaaay better, i started my search.
Decided in the end i wanted to stay with a suv...
Something with a V8 is a better choice for hauling my boat up the canyons anyways.
That old S10 with the 4.3 had to really work to stay free way speeds going up some of the canyon roads, even with out the boat in tow...
Full sizes with the better build quality, i think this is worth keeping on the road for longer.
So i ended up getting one with higher mileage, right at that 170k mark.
I would never have guessed this truck had that many miles
Not a drop of oil is leaking anywhere.
Also no signs of an oil leak in the past.
Amazing!
My point being,
I think these trucks are worth keeping.
However paying someone else to do the work may get a tad $$
As they age major things may need to be done to them.
But it sounds like you have it figured out.
And sorry about the long winded post, starting my day, I'm feeling motivated!
Thanks for the reply and I tend to do most of the work to my vehicles as well. I had planned to drop the drivetrain to fix all the leaks. However, life happens and the cost of letting someone do it for me is far worth it right now. I recently sold my house and am waiting for the next home to be finished being built, I also recently got married and my wife is 4 months pregnant. There are several other details to our situation but basically I just Dont have time to be wrenching right now and want to make sure we have two sturdy dead nuts reliable cars for the next few years.
Update: Got the Tahoe back, so far everything looks great and all the replaced parts are shiny. I will work on getting and exhaust vid but I believe it wont sound the best until it is broken in.
I am going to see about putting some miles on it over the next few days and look it over with a fine tooth comb.
Oh and it came out to $4200 bucks which I think is more then fair.
I am going to see about putting some miles on it over the next few days and look it over with a fine tooth comb.
Oh and it came out to $4200 bucks which I think is more then fair.
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