Sparksalot
Elite Member
Made by Johnson Controls.
Growing up doesn't have to suck
- Thread starter iamdub
- Start date
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pwtr02ss
Full Access Member
Much research lead me to buying Walmart batteries. They are all the same (Johnson controls manufactured) with different stickers. Even my ACDelco was identical to the Walmart version. All the parts store batteries except NAPA are made by them.
randeez
Full Access Member
That's why they call them big Johnson batteries
gooffeyguy
Tom
Nice
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Exactly the same---but different.
Sparksalot
Elite Member
Back when I was researching AGM replacements for thecopcar I learned there are only three companies that actually manufacture them in the USA. Johnson, East Penn, and a third whose name escapes me. Neither Interstate nor Optima make their own AGMs.
randeez
Full Access Member
OP
OP
iamdub
Full Access Member
Clarios bought JC's automotive battery division and now make the majority of automotive AGM batterys. They have multiple plants in Germany. I wouldn't be surprised if they're the OEM supplier for BMW, Audi, Mercedes, etc.
With all the reading I did, the best conclusion I could reach was that the country of origin varies by the type of battery, even under the same brand or manufacturer. I feel warm and cozy with a German-made battery. Them sour fcukers tend to be as ąnal as I am when it comes to manufacturing.
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iamdub
Full Access Member
Burned the E10 down until less than 35 miles to empty, until the cluster no longer displayed an estimated DTE. Then rode around a little more. Poured in 13.677 gallons of E85 (only $35!) and rode around until the scanner seemed to settle on 56.7% Ethanol. I'll pull a fuel sample to compare when I'm under the hood to replace the alternator. I hope to do this tomorrow but I never know how work or UPS's delivery will go.
pwtr02ss
Full Access Member
Exide I believe
gooffeyguy
Tom
Any particular reason why 13.677 gallons?
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iamdub
Full Access Member
Because 13/6/77- The 13th day of June in 1977. It was the day that James Earl Ray was recaptured.
Lolnahseriouslythough, it was an even $35 and about half a tank. Felt like a good stopping point to me. I was gonna do $30 but got sidetracked and went over so I went to the next $5 increment. It also being about half a tank satisfied my OCD. Unless I'm on a road trip, I just get 1/4 to 1/2 a tank cuz it sits so much. This way, I'm always getting fresh gas.
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iamdub
Full Access Member
Alternator delivered, three days late.
As expected, it was almost out of the box. I was half-expecting a broken mounting ear. The pulley (actually the clutch) was the part almost protruding, but still covered in bubble wrap:
It seems fine, but has a very slight wobble. It spins smoothly and the clutch works. If the clutch wasn't such a PITA requiring special tools, I'd remove it and check the shaft for runout. I'm gonna spin my current one and see if there's any wobble in hopes it's something common and harmless. No dents in the edge of the clutch. I'd think a hit hard enough to bend the shaft would put a sizeable ding in the clutch shell. I'm gonna look for good pics of that center cap removed to see if the shell is as thin as I think it is to confirm my theory/hopes:
Part number 13539728:
I'll probably chop this ear off. Or, keep it and repurpose the bracket mounted to it somehow. Maybe a catch can bracket for that factory-original effect?
I see the harness plug as a bonus. I'd like longer wires, but these are workable should I need them:
Ad said 6,000 miles on this unit. I believe it.
As expected, it was almost out of the box. I was half-expecting a broken mounting ear. The pulley (actually the clutch) was the part almost protruding, but still covered in bubble wrap:
It seems fine, but has a very slight wobble. It spins smoothly and the clutch works. If the clutch wasn't such a PITA requiring special tools, I'd remove it and check the shaft for runout. I'm gonna spin my current one and see if there's any wobble in hopes it's something common and harmless. No dents in the edge of the clutch. I'd think a hit hard enough to bend the shaft would put a sizeable ding in the clutch shell. I'm gonna look for good pics of that center cap removed to see if the shell is as thin as I think it is to confirm my theory/hopes:
Part number 13539728:
I'll probably chop this ear off. Or, keep it and repurpose the bracket mounted to it somehow. Maybe a catch can bracket for that factory-original effect?
I see the harness plug as a bonus. I'd like longer wires, but these are workable should I need them:
Ad said 6,000 miles on this unit. I believe it.
Reminds me of an OEM water pump I ordered from Summit. I received it, and there were several holes in the box. There was a slight dent on the end of the large hose flange. That thing got kicked around pretty good, to cause damage there, where the flare was! After speaking with them, finding out they had no substitute, I went with it, after they promised to make it right if I had any problems.. whaddya know. After installation, the sucker leaked. I’m glad it revealed it’s faults right away, not 10k after being installed.
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iamdub
Full Access Member
That's about what I was picturing. It being a few days late, I thought for sure it was cuz it got hung up somewhere in the journey cuz the box tore open and alternator fell from at least waist high. It came from Tyler, TX. Its time in transit was doubled, possibly meaning it was subjected to twice the movement/abuse.
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iamdub
Full Access Member
Well, this is a cluster. This alt has a totally different mounting arrangement than what I need. I went off the seller's description, which listed a part number of an alt that has the correct fitment. Their pics just showed the sticker on the alt so I didn't bother to dig deeper. Not when I had such a bōner for the super low mileage. Between the description discrepancy and their poor packaging leading to shipping damage, I emailed the seller requesting replacement or refund. On to the pics-
The original alt is like "Tab A" that goes inside "Slot B" of the accessory bracket on the engine. The new alt has the "Slot B" arrangement:
So, it'd be like this:
Which is basically this:
Also, the main lug interferes with the EVAP purge pipe:
Other comparison photos just cuz:
The original alt is like "Tab A" that goes inside "Slot B" of the accessory bracket on the engine. The new alt has the "Slot B" arrangement:
So, it'd be like this:
Which is basically this:
Also, the main lug interferes with the EVAP purge pipe:
Other comparison photos just cuz:
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iamdub
Full Access Member
Your eyes are not deceiving you. The pulley on the new alt is smaller.
Stock:
New:
I just kinda eyeballed it, but I think the center of the pulley is located further away from the mounting points to make up for the smaller diameter. Worse case, I bet I could make it work. But I'm not interested in such a project and it'd be too easy to screw up and then I'd be plagued with belt wear and/or noise issues. I hope the seller does the right thing.
Stock:
New:
I just kinda eyeballed it, but I think the center of the pulley is located further away from the mounting points to make up for the smaller diameter. Worse case, I bet I could make it work. But I'm not interested in such a project and it'd be too easy to screw up and then I'd be plagued with belt wear and/or noise issues. I hope the seller does the right thing.
swathdiver
Full Access Member
Well, now you can get a new engine to make it fit!
