Growing up doesn't have to suck
- Thread starter iamdub
- Start date
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swathdiver
Full Access Member
Yeah, I'm late to the party as well, but what is the goal here?
RPO KG3 is for a 145 Amp alternator. 20881337.
RPO KW1 is for a 160 Amp alternator. 25877026.
My pickups have 145s and my Yukon XL has the 160.
Of course, they all are made to fit the "truck" accessory drive.
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iamdub
Full Access Member
This new alternator is off of a '19 with the 2.7L turbo I4 with the KW5 RPO for high-output (220A) alternator. It also fits the '20 and '21 Cadillac CT4 and CT5 with the turbo I4. There are a few variations of these 220A models. I went off the seller's description, mentioning a different part number and jumped the gun because it has only 6,000 miles and supposedly was the correct fitment.
I wasn't specifically shopping for one with a clutch. Actually, I had never looked into the clutch stuff until all this began. I actually like the idea of it with my engine turning 6,000+ RPM with quick drops from fast upshifts. The problem is that it's yet another wear item that can lead to weak or no charging due to the pulley freewheeling if the clutch failed just so. There are two types- a decoupler that basically works like a ratchet and a clutch that has a torsion spring spec'ed for the vehicle the alternator will be on. I'm not worried about clutch failure. Getting one with low mileage and the fact that I don't drive much convinces me this will likely never be a problem for me.
My original DR44 (160A) alt seems to be working fine. But, after the recent small subwoofer install which lead to the demise of the abused 5-year-old battery, I had to get a new battery and upgrade the alt while I was doing electrical things. I was looking at $400+ for a 250A MechMan when @Doubeleive turned me onto these factory 220A alts that can be had for as little as $100 on eBay.
The correct ones are plug-and-play. Due to that seller's incorrect description in their eBay listing, I just got one of the 220A variants with a case designed to bolt up to a totally different style of bracket.
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iamdub
Full Access Member
I ain't sweatin' it any more. Gonna return this one and reinstall my original and keep an eye out for a CONFIRMED correct 220A unit. As long as there are cell phones and entitled front left passengers, there will not be a shortage of totaled late model carcasses to pick from.
kbuskill
***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
I see, so what is the correct part number that bolts right up? And what does it come off of?
I'm guessing maybe a 3500 Silvy?
What about something like this?
A-Team Performance - GM AD244 Style High Output 220 Amp Alternator Black - Compatible with Chevrolet BBC SBC GM Diesel https://a.co/d/dTr7CAw
kbuskill
***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
Nice alternator but that is the 4 pin version and is not compatible with the 2 pin computer controlled version the GMT900s use, unfortunately.
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iamdub
Full Access Member
I believe 13534128 is one of the ones that will bolt and plug up. There are at least two that will. I think the differences are the pulley- standard, decoupler and clutch. It might be on the 3500. But definitely on the 1500. Whatever had the KW5 RPO.
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iamdub
Full Access Member
Pretty good price for a 220A alt. But, as Ken said, it's for the older gens. Speaking of, another reason I like the ones off the newer models is that they're a 6-phase design. More output at idle and more efficient overall.
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iamdub
Full Access Member
Just bought another alternator- #13534128. Seller had pics from all angles. Was listed at $135.96 but had a 20% discount code bringing it to $108.77. Add $10.28 in tax and I'm in it for $119.05. This one has 21,712 miles. New enough for me. No clutch.
I dug through so many listings and most either didn't specify what engine the wrecked truck had or they were the 2.7L, verified by the underhood pics. Yet, they had the alternators listed as fitting the V8s. No pics or part numbers for the actual alternators for which those listings were created. Bunch of BS.
I dug through so many listings and most either didn't specify what engine the wrecked truck had or they were the 2.7L, verified by the underhood pics. Yet, they had the alternators listed as fitting the V8s. No pics or part numbers for the actual alternators for which those listings were created. Bunch of BS.
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iamdub
Full Access Member
Second alternator delivered yesterday. It was packed much more securely and made the trip from Illinois safe and sound. It spins true but I might swap on my original pulley cuz it's black. Might shave off the extra tabs on the housing, too. I'll have to assess the altered main stud location. I hope I can come up with something clean using the wire I already have. Otherwise, I'll have to make up a new one using a 90° terminal end:
Part number 13534128:
Had this blob of plastic ŝplooge that I first thought was a sloppy repair for a crack in the back cover:
It peeled off cleanly and there was no damage underneath. It looks like hot melt glue but it's firm like plastic:
Had too much else to do to go install it. Maybe I'll get to it this evening. I started a return for the first alternator last Friday but the seller hasn't responded yet. EBay will step in on 5/18 if I haven't heard from the seller.
Part number 13534128:
Had this blob of plastic ŝplooge that I first thought was a sloppy repair for a crack in the back cover:
It peeled off cleanly and there was no damage underneath. It looks like hot melt glue but it's firm like plastic:
Had too much else to do to go install it. Maybe I'll get to it this evening. I started a return for the first alternator last Friday but the seller hasn't responded yet. EBay will step in on 5/18 if I haven't heard from the seller.
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iamdub
Full Access Member
So, this alternator could probably be a direct bolt-on, plug-and-play swap. But, IMO, it needed some "optimizing" in mounting, appearance and performance. A direct swap would be a 20-minute job. I was on it for a solid two hours, from 5:20 to 7:20. I have 20 pics so the story will be split up over the next four posts. Buckle up, bitches. Here we go...
First off, comparisons to my stock DR44. Here, I was comparing the mounting ears. The width of the ears and the spread on centers are the same. The holes in the new alt are much larger. More on that later:
Same pulley spacing:
Control plug and output stud locations are swapped and the stud has a 90° adapter. There was a cover over the 10mm nut on the back, but I removed it during brainstorming:
Old alt has ~62mm pulley:
New alt has ~60mm pulley:
First off, comparisons to my stock DR44. Here, I was comparing the mounting ears. The width of the ears and the spread on centers are the same. The holes in the new alt are much larger. More on that later:
Same pulley spacing:
Control plug and output stud locations are swapped and the stud has a 90° adapter. There was a cover over the 10mm nut on the back, but I removed it during brainstorming:
Old alt has ~62mm pulley:
New alt has ~60mm pulley:
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iamdub
Full Access Member
About that pulley diameter. If you recall, that wrong alt I received last week had a 54mm pulley. These alts are all pretty much the same, just with different cases for the types of mounting. If it's fine with a 54mm pulley on an engine that spins ~6,300 (2022 CT5 2.0T), then I want mine to spin the same to achieve the same output. I checked my stash and found an alt from my '02 S10. It had a 56mm pulley. Close enough:
On to the mounting. The bolts have a 10mm shank:
Appropriately, the holes in the old alt's ears are a hair larger than 10mm:
The front of the hole in the ear of the new alt is a hair larger, but still close enough:
The rear is a whopping 14mm:
On to the mounting. The bolts have a 10mm shank:
Appropriately, the holes in the old alt's ears are a hair larger than 10mm:
The front of the hole in the ear of the new alt is a hair larger, but still close enough:
The rear is a whopping 14mm:
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iamdub
Full Access Member
With that much slack around the bolt, there's no support. Sure, once it's bolted up and tightened, it'll likely be aligned just fine and likely never be a problem. But, I gotta at least try. Back to my stash shelves...
I grabbed a spacer sleeve left over from my recent sway bar end link project. It has a 10mm ID and is about 2mm thick- Perfect!:
The holes in the ears are tapered. I tapped the sleeve in with a hammer until it was fairly snug and scored a line on the sleeve to mark the depth. I removed the sleeve and measured to the line- 18mm. I cut the sleeve at the line then measured to cut another from the other end so each cut piece would have a smooth, flat end. I put a slight bevel in the cut edges and tapped the 18mm pieces into the holes with the clean, uncut ends outward:
Now, the bolt enters and exits through a 10mm hole, ensuring proper support and alignment:
I couldn't see any use for the extra mounting tabs on the case, so I cut them off and smoothed the metal down. Note the smaller pulley already painted and installed:
I mocked up the alt to see what I was gonna do with the odd main stud location. I'm thinking the easiest and fastest would've been to trim one side of the shield of that vertical adapter piece and twist the cable 90° to bolt it on. But, I tried dissecting that piece to mod it and it became a casualty. So, I ended up slicing the square slot in that black plastic cover to widen it so the terminal boot would fit so the cable would attach like it did on the original alt, just clocked upward:
I grabbed a spacer sleeve left over from my recent sway bar end link project. It has a 10mm ID and is about 2mm thick- Perfect!:
The holes in the ears are tapered. I tapped the sleeve in with a hammer until it was fairly snug and scored a line on the sleeve to mark the depth. I removed the sleeve and measured to the line- 18mm. I cut the sleeve at the line then measured to cut another from the other end so each cut piece would have a smooth, flat end. I put a slight bevel in the cut edges and tapped the 18mm pieces into the holes with the clean, uncut ends outward:
Now, the bolt enters and exits through a 10mm hole, ensuring proper support and alignment:
I couldn't see any use for the extra mounting tabs on the case, so I cut them off and smoothed the metal down. Note the smaller pulley already painted and installed:
I mocked up the alt to see what I was gonna do with the odd main stud location. I'm thinking the easiest and fastest would've been to trim one side of the shield of that vertical adapter piece and twist the cable 90° to bolt it on. But, I tried dissecting that piece to mod it and it became a casualty. So, I ended up slicing the square slot in that black plastic cover to widen it so the terminal boot would fit so the cable would attach like it did on the original alt, just clocked upward:
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iamdub
Full Access Member
It's a bit of an odd angle, but clean enough. It's secure and fully insulated:
It clears the cover:
No exposed hot/live parts:
Complete and cover on
Voltage about 10 seconds after a cold start:
I revved it a little to listen for noises and eyeballed the belt for alignment. Went for a short drive and the voltage settled. Sat in Tahoe Twin's driveway and revved it to ~5,000. No issues. I played some heavy bass tracks and watched the headlights on the wall. The dimming was MUCH improved with just the new battery, but I can see even more improvement with the new alt.
It clears the cover:
No exposed hot/live parts:
Complete and cover on
Voltage about 10 seconds after a cold start:
I revved it a little to listen for noises and eyeballed the belt for alignment. Went for a short drive and the voltage settled. Sat in Tahoe Twin's driveway and revved it to ~5,000. No issues. I played some heavy bass tracks and watched the headlights on the wall. The dimming was MUCH improved with just the new battery, but I can see even more improvement with the new alt.
Excellent work and write up as usual sir!
Excellent work. Always amazed how you come up with the solutions to the issues you come across.
randeez
Full Access Member
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