Glitter in 6.2L oil ... please help

[j91z28d1]

I was looking for a decent video but only saw this quickly.

but basically the lifter rides on the cam lobe and pushes the back of the rocker arm up, which pushes the front down. the spring pressure then pushes the opposite way to follow the down side of the lobe. if the valve is stuck down the spring can't come up and close the valve. when I lifter gets stuck it doesn't open the valve.

I don't know if that makes sense haha. but both are needed but kinda the exact opposite of each other. you'll have to figure out which side is causing the slop.

 

[thefrey]

I was looking for a decent video but only saw this quickly.

but basically the lifter rides on the cam lobe and pushes the back of the rocker arm up, which pushes the front down. the spring pressure then pushes the opposite way to follow the down side of the lobe. if the valve is stuck down the spring can't come up and close the valve. when I lifter gets stuck it doesn't open the valve.

I don't know if that makes sense haha. but both are needed but kinda the exact opposite of each other. you'll have to figure out which side is causing the slop.

Yep that makes total sense.

Did the rest of the teardown today. Planning on trying to free the lifter and then tune out AFM

Here’s a video of the rockers with a better angle of the valve springs. I don’t think the valve is stuck, I think the lifter is just collapsed

 

[thefrey]

Oh yeah, that o-ring was way past ready to be replaced. That coating on the bottom of your oil pan... I can visualize small pieces of it flaking off, looking like metal as you drain the oil. That looks like an engine that has significant blow by, a partially plugged PCV system, or more likely the previous owner didn't change the oil often enough.

Pulled apart my intake today, I noticed a PCV line from the passenger valve cover to the top of the manifold was broken. I wonder if that could have caused some carbon buildup issues

 

[j91z28d1]

Yep that makes total sense.

Did the rest of the teardown today. Planning on trying to free the lifter and then tune out AFM View attachment 456835

Here’s a video of the rockers with a better angle of the valve springs. I don’t think the valve is stuck, I think the lifter is just collapsed

from that angle, it looks a lot better.

hope you get it to release

 

[donjetman]

Pulled apart my intake today, I noticed a PCV line from the passenger valve cover to the top of the manifold was broken. I wonder if that could have caused some carbon buildup issues

Not having done https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2014/MC-10114272-9999.pdf causes carbon buildup. Ask me how I know.

That broken line is for the clean (filtered air) side of the PCV system. The break/leak allows unfiltered air (dirt) into the engine crankcase which mucks up the oil thus shortening the engine life.

 

[thefrey]

Not having done https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2014/MC-10114272-9999.pdf causes carbon buildup. Ask me how I know.

That broken line is for the clean (filtered air) side of the PCV system. The break/leak allows unfiltered air (dirt) into the engine crankcase which mucks up the oil thus shortening the engine life.

View attachment 456860
View attachment 456861

Dang. I’m glad I noticed it then. I’m surprised there wasn’t a code or any symptoms. I should have the updated cover since it’s a 2013.

The intakes on the heads have a little bit of carbon buildup. I think I saw maybe one of your posts that you cleaned that really well. Do you have any tips on how to clean it (perhaps without walnut blasting haha)

 

[rdezs]

Dang. I’m glad I noticed it then. I’m surprised there wasn’t a code or any symptoms. I should have the updated cover since it’s a 2013.

The intakes on the heads have a little bit of carbon buildup. I think I saw maybe one of your posts that you cleaned that really well. Do you have any tips on how to clean it (perhaps without walnut blasting haha)

Rotate the engine till the valve you're working on is closed. Get a three pack of extra firm toothbrushes, and some diesel. Some people prefer to use seafoam. I've also experimented with felpro's gasket remover, waiting 15 minutes after applying it to the valve stem with quite a bit of success using the toothbrush.

 

[j91z28d1]

I have forgotten to hook up that line to the air box and saw a good 10% change in fuel trims. but it didn't set a light.

worth fixing.

as for cleaning everything. I'd just work on releasing the lifter. you'll mostly have the heads off some day and can clean then. get her running. add a catch can and throw some techron in the fuel every now and then. maybe switch to the restoe and protect oil. it seems to be doing a good job cleaning varnish off the inside of engines.

 

[thefrey]

I have forgotten to hook up that line to the air box and saw a good 10% change in fuel trims. but it didn't set a light.

worth fixing.

as for cleaning everything. I'd just work on releasing the lifter. you'll mostly have the heads off some day and can clean then. get her running. add a catch can and throw some techron in the fuel every now and then. maybe switch to the restoe and protect oil. it seems to be doing a good job cleaning varnish off the inside of engines.

That would explain a lot imo. Seems like my MPGs were a little low. Will try that and see what happens

I got a couple days until the lifter release tool comes so that’s why I was asking about cleaning. Will keep me busy lol

I’m already running some restore and protect so I’ll probably run that until I get rid of it

 

[thefrey]

Not having done https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2014/MC-10114272-9999.pdf causes carbon buildup. Ask me how I know.

That broken line is for the clean (filtered air) side of the PCV system. The break/leak allows unfiltered air (dirt) into the engine crankcase which mucks up the oil thus shortening the engine life.

View attachment 456860
View attachment 456861

Another thing, should I replace my intake manifold gaskets? They look ok. I’m assuming they have been replaced before. But not sure if I should just replace them while I’m in there


Edit: I’ll probably just throw a new pair on while it’s out. Date code says November of 2018 so doesn’t hurt for new ones

 

[SpareParts]

I always replace gaskets. Even if they are a week old.

 

[JoeBlobs]

Shout out to everyone whose helped in this thread. There is so much valuable and very useful information here we all should know. Yall are great, for real.

 

[Dustin Jackson]

Don't know if this has been said but freeing the lifter is at most a temporary solution, there is a reason it got stuck and until that is addressed it will probably happen again but considering the title of this thread is about metal in the oil I don't blame you not wanting to invest into this motor

 

[j91z28d1]

Don't know if this has been said but freeing the lifter is at most a temporary solution, there is a reason it got stuck and until that is addressed it will probably happen again but considering the title of this thread is about metal in the oil I don't blame you not wanting to invest into this motor

Yes, if you unstick the lifter and do nothing else. it will 100% stick again pretty shortly. the rest of the work around is turn it off in the tune, physically plug the oil supply that activates afm and then lastly cut the gaskets on the port that supply oil to the afm portion of the lifter, that way hopefully the lifter will never go into afm mode again, and as long as the internal locking pins are good, the bottom roller and or lifter tray holds up. you should be OK for a while.

but that said. there's been posts showing the standard non afm lifters failing before the afm ones. so it's all a crap shoot and honestly while a full delete is correct. there's not guarantee the parts you use are any good. the quality of manufactured parts are all suspect at this point.

 

[thefrey]

Yes, if you unstick the lifter and do nothing else. it will 100% stick again pretty shortly. the rest of the work around is turn it off in the tune, physically plug the oil supply that activates afm and then lastly cut the gaskets on the port that supply oil to the afm portion of the lifter, that way hopefully the lifter will never go into afm mode again, and as long as the internal locking pins are good, the bottom roller and or lifter tray holds up. you should be OK for a while.

but that said. there's been posts showing the standard non afm lifters failing before the afm ones. so it's all a crap shoot and honestly while a full delete is correct. there's not guarantee the parts you use are any good. the quality of manufactured parts are all suspect at this point.

Late reply but that’s exactly what I did. Unstuck the lifter, blocked off the VLOM, cut the gaskets on the towers, and then using a OBD plug in to make sure v4 doesn’t turn on

 

[thefrey]

Don't know if this has been said but freeing the lifter is at most a temporary solution, there is a reason it got stuck and until that is addressed it will probably happen again but considering the title of this thread is about metal in the oil I don't blame you not wanting to invest into this motor

I honestly don’t think it was metal. Maybe it was, but my best guess is that it was carbon flakes from the interior of the engine.

I changed the oil in another one of my cars and had very similar deposits. So either it’s not metal or I’m screwed x2 lol

 

[Matahoe]

I'm not saying it is the cause but it looks like someone put cooling system sealer, stop leak in your oil. Small metal flakes are used in its formulation. Could be an incorrect diagnosis from previous owner or unscrupulous mechanic? Does it run rough? Burn oil? Loosing coolant? How do spark plugs look? Any aluminum deposits from pistons which could be from running the engine at high rmp in a lean condition? Maybe someone tried using nitrous without adding right amount of extra fuel? Maybe blown head gasket? Keep an eye on fluid levels to see if any are being consumed at a higher rate than normal.

 

[thefrey]

I'm not saying it is the cause but it looks like someone put cooling system sealer, stop leak in your oil. Small metal flakes are used in its formulation. Could be an incorrect diagnosis from previous owner or unscrupulous mechanic? Does it run rough? Burn oil? Loosing coolant? How do spark plugs look? Any aluminum deposits from pistons which could be from running the engine at high rmp in a lean condition? Maybe someone tried using nitrous without adding right amount of extra fuel? Maybe blown head gasket? Keep an eye on fluid levels to see if any are being consumed at a higher rate than normal.

Very well could have been some sort of stop leak.

It leaked a good amount of oil from the oil cooler + oil pan gasket when i got it. I replaced both and now it doesn’t leak and doesn’t burn any oil

I am going to do an oil analysis in the future to try to get an idea of how much longer this engine has