Falling down a rabbit hole for intake manifold R&R on 2013 Escalade, help me find bottom

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skpyle

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Hello All,

I am ordering parts for replacing the torque converter and doing some internal upgrades to the 6L80 in my 140,3** mile 2013 Escalade ESV. As such, I have talked myself into pulling the intake manifold as part of the job. To have the fuel injectors cleaned, replace gaskets, and for better access to the top bell housing bolts.

However...I have fallen down a rabbit hole for the scope of this job:

With the intake off, I should check the torque on the VLOM bolts.
Well...shouldn't I proactively replace the VLOM gasket? I can't find a listing for the gasket. I found a listing for the non-AFM VLOM. However photos of the AFM VLOM and non-AFM VLOM show the gaskets seem different. So maybe I shouldn't worry about replacing the gasket.

Since the intake is off, might as well do the valve cover gaskets...

Sooooo...should I try to replace the VLOM gasket? I know I should be doing an AFM delete, but I don't feel like opening the front of the engine to pull the cam. I already have AFM turned off in the Black Bear Tune.

As well, are there any "gotcha's" for pulling the intake manifold? I have been searching here on TYF, but have not seen any hard details.


Thanks for any and all advice!
 

B-train

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Oh boy, that poor little thought train is gonna run right off the tracks!

The intake is easy to remove. It's a dry intake - R&R with new gaskets is probably 1.5 hrs labor. Just unhook all harness connections and the breather hoses. The harness over the top is a PITA, but you can hold it up with a bungie. Then you can slide the manifild up and forward at the same time. You'll find an air deflector on the back by where the vacuum line for the booster plugs in - i don't see a purpose for it and removed mine, makes the reinstall much easier. Plus, if you have sensor issues in the future, it makes access way better. After removal, Plug all the intake holes with rags.

As far as the VLOM gaskets, I'm sure the dealership has a kit. If it's anything similar to the on-AFM motors, it's probably a bunch of smaller o-rings and one larger plate seal (?)

Valve cover gaskets are super easy, just requires more removal of harness stuff, etc.
 

89Suburban

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Need a disconnect tool for the fuel line on the rail. I had a hell of a time trying to find the right gasket for my VLOM, there are several styles of gaskets for these. (Example pics attached). Just to find out that the original is riveted together. So I had to replace the complete unit. Many here say it would be preventative to replace the VLOM anyway with an updated one, some say just snug up the originals and let it be.



I have some scattered posts, pics, swearing and info when I dove into my intake/vlom project here:



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skpyle

skpyle

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Gentlemen, thank you very much for your replies!

To my knowledge, and after owning this Escalade for over a year, the VLOM and valve covers don't leak. I will let sleeping dogs lie. I will just tighten the VLOM bolts and replace the intake gaskets.

If it leaks in the future, it will be a job I can deal with.

Thanks!
 

Geotrash

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Gentlemen, thank you very much for your replies!

To my knowledge, and after owning this Escalade for over a year, the VLOM and valve covers don't leak. I will let sleeping dogs lie. I will just tighten the VLOM bolts and replace the intake gaskets.

If it leaks in the future, it will be a job I can deal with.

Thanks!
Solid plan. Torque them to spec. And I second getting rid of that air deflector behind the intake. Replace the oil pressure sender and screen while you’re there too.
 
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skpyle

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Thanks Geotrash!

Oil pressure sender is getting done when I get off this stretch of work next week. Tuesday morning, CEL illuminated. Had P5021. Oil pressure on the DIC was 129PSI. And then read - - - -. New sending unit was ordered that night and was delivered today from Rock Auto.
 

89Suburban

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Thanks Geotrash!

Oil pressure sender is getting done when I get off this stretch of work next week. Tuesday morning, CEL illuminated. Had P5021. Oil pressure on the DIC was 129PSI. And then read - - - -. New sending unit was ordered that night and was delivered today from Rock Auto.


Curious to see your foam pads under the intake. Get some pics for us.
 
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skpyle

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99835ABE-BBCA-4648-BE4A-401965A2D87B.jpeg

I had my turn today at replacing the oil pressure sensor and screen on the 6.2L in my Escalade.

My, wasn’t that fun…

NOTE: screen 12585328 is no longer included with sensor 12673134. They must be ordered separately. I found out the hard way.

This job took me around an hour and 15 minutes, including connecting the Tech 2.

I followed other’s advice and removed the PVC lines. I did not need to move the power brake booster supply hose, as I could get my hand and wrist around it.

The godforsaken fuel crossover line, however… If I ever have to do this again, that line gets disconnected.

And…there is a round metal tab/bracket that sticks up right near the base of the intake manifold, likely coming off the cylinder head. That was all kinds of in my way. I drug my wrist across it every time I had to get my hand out.

But I got it. I used the Lisle oil pressure socket, a 3/8” drive swivel, and a 6” long extension to get the old sensor out and new sensor in. I put the swivel on the socket, wiggled the socket into place, then fed the extension down until I could get it in the swivel.
It worked.

Too bad the sensor didn’t.
Started the engine, and looked at oil pressure on the DIC. It read “- - -“.
Great.

I pulled DTC’s with my Tech 2:
P0521 Symptom 00, Engine Oil Pressure Sensor Performance
P0523 Symptom 00, Engine Oil Pressure Sensor Circuit High Voltage

P0521 was expected, P0523 was new.

Cleared DTC’s, then started the engine. DIC read 51PSI for oil pressure. As did the Tech 2 live data.
Yay!!!

Back story: on 12/27/22, the engine shut off while on remote start. Found the CEL illuminated.
Pulled codes with Tech 2, only had the P0521. Started the engine, and saw 129PSI for oil pressure on the DIC.
Then oil pressure went to “- - -“.
I didn’t hear any valve train clattering or bottom end knocking, so I figured it was a sensor problem as opposed to actual low oil pressure.

I ordered the parts (2 orders ) from Rock Auto, and finally had a day off work today to install them.


One more GMT900 rite-of-passage down.
 
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