Doors, paint, etc.

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Mean_Green

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Continuing from my punch list thread. If you don't want a bunch of threads on the same things, let me know. Boards are all different.

Neither front door will stand open. They both have the springs (found laying below caught by the lower fenders). I can re-locate the springs, but they just fall out again. Almost like another piece is missing.






Door 1.jpgSpring.jpg


As noted on the other thread, I need to find out how best to deal with the clear coat.
 
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Mean_Green

Mean_Green

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Is there a simple way to add turn signal indicators to the outer mirrors?
 
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Mean_Green

Mean_Green

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Am I building?

Or just fixing?

Passenger door handle is broken in one corner. Replacement ordered, but I need to figure out how to get the inner panel off. I've done it on several other vehicles, but I always break something and they never go back together quite right. Need to be more careful this time.

Handle.jpg
 
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Mean_Green

Mean_Green

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Door handle's replaced. Not a job I wanty to do again. Probabaly not as bad the second time, but when you don't know what needs to be done, it's as much discovery and figuring things out as doing.

Trying to get the inner door panel off was most of the problem ... just to get to one crummy screw.

Had the handle replaced and re-inserted, then tried the door. Didn't seem like it worked. Took me a while to figure out that these latches don't pop open like other brands. They just release internally and allow you to pull/push the door open.
 

east302

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Continuing from my punch list thread. If you don't want a bunch of threads on the same things, let me know. Boards are all different.

Neither front door will stand open. They both have the springs (found laying below caught by the lower fenders). I can re-locate the springs, but they just fall out again. Almost like another piece is missing.






View attachment 395082View attachment 395083


As noted on the other thread, I need to find out how best to deal with the clear coat.

The spring fits where your two arrows are pointing. The lever rests against the roller pin.

1D8BB724-8ECB-4D72-AACE-4DC495CE8B3E.jpeg
D1505273-BA5F-4029-9805-A8BB9A3DEC63.jpeg
543B9CEE-0B88-4127-ADEF-A572EC30B515.jpeg

Compress the spring, set it in place and loosen the tool.

4DCAD092-E85F-4895-B7E2-4C97237AAD30.jpeg
 
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Mean_Green

Mean_Green

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If you look at my picture again, you'll see that roller pin is missing. Just went out to check and it's gone from both sides. Not sure why or how to replace it/them.
 

east302

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It’s GM part 12540326.

Dorman sells one that is “supposed” to fit but you have to grind down the beveled edge to make it fit. Like many dorman products, just skip the hassle and go with the GM part. It’ll fit just fine, I used one on my son’s truck not long ago. We’ve since sold that truck - else I’d grab you a picture of the new roller.

The top in peened from the factory, so the replacement will need to have a weld stitched on it to hold it in place. Otherwise, it will “walk” down over time. I didn’t try it, but you might be able to cut a thread on the top of it and put a nut on it.


B57ECF4C-49E2-4612-B8C6-75AF1211114B.jpeg
1117C4F6-7711-4302-B020-52F4B8CA3547.jpeg




 

Fless

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If one could drill a small hole through the top end, would there be enough meat to put a washer on and cotter pin through?

EDIT: might be a hassle to drill a hole through such a small shaft.
 
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east302

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Good idea, anything is a better choice than welding it. One less thing to have to cut or grind off if it ever needs to be replaced.
 

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