Consensus on Cold Oil Changes

[YukonRog]

I'm mostly being lazy I think but I thought I'd ask. I usually do hot oil changes but since the Yukon is up on the jacks in the garage waiting for parts I'm contemplating changing the oil and filter since the advisor came on. What's the thoughts on this? It is 90⁰ here.

 

[iamdub]

I'm mostly being lazy I think but I thought I'd ask. I usually do hot oil changes but since the Yukon is up on the jacks in the garage waiting for parts I'm contemplating changing the oil and filter since the advisor came on. What's the thoughts on this? It is 90⁰ here.

Thoughts? My first thoughts are to NOT go by the "advisor"!

IMO, there's not enough of a difference to be so concerned with hot or cold. The point of a change is to get as much of the oil oil out and replace it with new oil. I let mine drain until it's no longer dripping because I have the time.

Ideally, to get the most oil out, you'd drain it while at it's hottest and let it drain until it's no longer dripping. The "worst" would be to start a cold engine, as if to drive it up on ramps, then immediately shut it off and drain it. This gets old oil pumped back up into the engine but not hot enough to really flow and drain down so easily. Yet, it's still a very small amount of old oil left. If you keep up with regular changes and use quality oil and have no sludge buildup, it's not gonna make any perceivable difference. It's definitely not enough difference to warrant burning yourself with hot oil.

If it's sitting and you wanna change the oil, go remove the plug and filter and leave it alone until your parts come in.

 

[RaiderRodney]

Might take a little longer to drain but I don't see a problem with it, not to mention if it's 90 degrees there. Go for it!

 

[91RS]

It doesn't matter. It just drains faster when it is hot.

 

[Dantheman1540]

I like cold changes, less chance to get burned.

 

[YukonRog]

First, thanks to Admin for moving this to the proper forum. I'm learning. I really don't trust those stupid advisors to be truthful. Especially when the oil still looks good to me. Not to bring up something that doesn't really belong on a GM forum, but just as an example. My Ram 2500 Cummins tells me to change the oil every 4000 miles or so. It's based on driving style and averages. And since diesel oil looks bad right after you start it you can't tell by looking. I sent a sample to Blackstone once and they said I could probably go to 7500 miles. Easy to reset. Guess just what dinged now on it!
So, bottom line is as I read it is, let it drain for a few days, and, let it go a bit longer. Since it's relatively easy to change I may wait a bit longer. Thanks for everyone's input!

 

[gooffeyguy]

I've also heard to remove the filter first, then drain the pan.

Apparently some oil that's in some passages can make it back into the pan when the filter is removed.

 

[adventurenali92]

I’ve done both hot and cold. Hot just because of time constraint I was under last time around. But I like to do it cold number one because then I don’t burn my self on the cats or the exhaust. And two because it’s far easier to get the drain bolt and filter on when they’re cold versus when they’re hot. Lol. Either way as long as you’re not putting anything back together til it’s done dripping then you should be good.

 

[homesick]

Hot is better because contaminants in the engine are suspended better in the oil. As the engine sits and the oil cools, contaminants are allowed time to settle, so they won't be as thoroughly flushed.

The logic of this is evident to me, but I didn't make it up. The Navy taught me this long ago, when I was a radial engine aircraft mechanic.

If you ever want to take an oil sample, the same rules apply. You want the sample to accurately reflect the engine's condition. That's harder to accomplish if your metal bits are all safely settled in the pan; especially if there's sludge.

joe

 

[swathdiver]

I'm too slow for hot oil changes if I can help it. Motor is still good according to Blackstone Labs so I reckon in the end, it doesn't matter so much.

 

[smcnair]

I've also heard to remove the filter first, then drain the pan.

Apparently some oil that's in some passages can make it back into the pan when the filter is removed.

Add this to the growing list of "things I did not know".

 

[Z15]

When the engine is cold, the oil tends to not flow very well. Which means if you change the oil on a cold engine, you may not be getting all of the old oil out.

 

[OR VietVet]

I have always done hot oil changes. When I was running shops, if we pulled in a customer's vehicle for an oil change, we let it run for 5 minutes before draining. Like @homesick said, that gets everything suspended in the oil and drains out more efficiently. It is just the way I was taught and I continue to this day. Also, less chance of old oil mixing with new oil. The importance of a good quality filter, like WIX, cannot be stressed enough.

 

[George B]

I tend to do them hot or at least warm. Never cold unless there is not an option. I am with the “contaminants in suspension” group

 

[Rocket Man]

I always do mine hot but I have quick drains that I just screw the hose on and it drains out o]without having to remove the drain plug. I pull the filter after it cools down though since that's always when I would spill hot oil on myself. I will have to check next time if pulling the filter results in a few more drips out of the pan since I leave that drain hose connected until the filter is changed. I was always taught to change oil hot and I'm too old to change now.

 

[easymoney]

I always have done it cold and let it drip…i figured i didnt want old oil up in the motor and leaving it over night to drip down inside motor into pan was what i wanted to do. after it stops dripping i put the plug in it and put 1/4 -1/2 quart of fresh oil in and pull the plug after a minute or two. Might see a little dirty oil come out but its probably not woth it. its rare that anything else comes out. I do see the point of the particles more suspended in the oil because of the motor was running but dont see the issue of oil being hot or cold as a factor. I live in texas so oil is always dripping fine. If you live somewhere cold it might make a difference though no experience with that.

 

[steve45]

Hot oil changes are an old wives tale. Sludge sticks to the pan, it doesn't float around in the oil. And if it did, the filter is supposed to catch it.

I've been doing cold oil changes for about the last 30 years and run most of my vehicles to about 300K, no problems.

 

[George B]

I would say the vast majority of oil changes happen hot or warm anyway. One thing I just thought was the first “cold” start of the day is the hardest as the oil has drained back more over time. That said I wonder about that cold start with less “prime”…
But, if you pre-fill your filter there shouldn’t be much difference.

 

[Mudsport96]

Hot oil changes are an old wives tale. Sludge sticks to the pan, it doesn't float around in the oil. And if it did, the filter is supposed to catch it.

I've been doing cold oil changes for about the last 30 years and run most of my vehicles to about 300K, no problems.

This here.
I didnt get the Silvy from the father in law until 394k miles. He being the slow "older" guy did them cold so he wouldnt get burned. So hot isnt necessarily getting more contaminated stuff out. Maybe before oil quality got better in the late 80s early 90s it made a difference

 

[SnowDrifter]

Doesn't matter.

Doing it hot only counts for lab analysis, with the goal being to exclude erroneous moisture contamination / fuel contamination from pulling the thing into the garage.

If you read internet advice about stirring up the oil to make sure you get particulates out and believe this applies to you, I'd carefully evaluate your maintenance habits and why you'd allow solids to build up in a liquid system.