Catch Can ****

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Just Fishing

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I really wonder if I could just drill & tap the bottom of the cup (probably install a quick disconnect nipple) and have that connect with a hose to a bigger simple container that can sit on the battery box. Like a gallon of milk or Amsoil 4qt jug. These catch cans are in vacuum, correct? If so, then I’ll have to keep it from venting when the engine is on. I know that the manufacturer of the Yukon’s aluminum catch warns that freezing wx could cause their cups to crack open if not emptied. I just don’t want to dump this thing every few days.

Caffeine fueled posting; I do this often.
Sorry :jester:


I have been using these cheap ones i get off of amazon.
They fit this really nice morso mount, so i keep buying them. :)

They have a bolt on the bottom, but it's this funky metric thread.

When i installed it on my Tahoe, i decided i wanted to try drilling the hole out and attempt to thread it for pipe thread.
That allowed me to use a standard drain.

It went ok, I didn't quite have the correct drill bit to make it work.
but any slop that was there, I filled with a mixture of red Loctite and some creative staking from inside of the can.
Luckly it also has a removable bottom... ;)

The can I keep buying (3 total now).
This thing is available from many different sellers and under different brand names.
No baffles in there, so I made my own.
Then topped off with some stainless-steel scrubbers near the top

For the intake side, I ran some tubing to get the vapors under the baffles and mesh.
Left plenty of room for a chamber for the fluids to sit at the bottom.

Nice part is the can itself is very thick.
Base and top, plenty of meat.
Very easy to do your own thing with.
And the bottom and top are completely removable from the main can.
Bad part is the shape of the top.
Takes space, so it must be mounted somewhat low.


I got creative and spent hours on it... lol
Skip this can unless you like tinkering with crap. :jester:

If you do go with it, shop around on ebay and amazon.
Lots of these are the exact same one
Prices and brand names vary like crazy.


This is the Mount I like.

Installed on my hoe,
1645284525634.png


Used hardline since i had a big roll of it handy.
the red stuff serves to keep things from rubbing together, and my flex joints.


On my wife's car, I got creative with some aluminum stock from my local hardware store.
Buick enclave with the 3.6.
Very tight under the hood!

I ended up breaking out my rivnut gun and mounted it underneath the windshield wiper area.
Right next to the master cylinder...
(Sealed the fk out of the rivnut install)
It was really the only space that would be easy to check, and access from the topside of the car... :jester:
 

skpyle

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We have a smallish catch can. Holds about 8 oz. We get about 2 oz every 10,000 miles from it. Doesn't have h2o in it, but smells like gasoline. View attachment 363081
View attachment 363082
View attachment 363083

Really stupid question: do you put the steel scrubber above or below the circular baffle in your catch can? I have the same catch can on my 2013 Escalade and am fitting one to my wife's 2008 Equinox. I want to put steel scrubbers in both of them.

Thanks!
 

donjetman

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Really stupid question: do you put the steel scrubber above or below the circular baffle in your catch can? I have the same catch can on my 2013 Escalade and am fitting one to my wife's 2008 Equinox. I want to put steel scrubbers in both of them.

Thanks!
Above it.
It helps the any oily mist/vapor to drop out and become a liquid in the bottom of the cc.
 

iamdub

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I really wonder if I could just drill & tap the bottom of the cup (probably install a quick disconnect nipple) and have that connect with a hose to a bigger simple container that can sit on the battery box. Like a gallon of milk or Amsoil 4qt jug. These catch cans are in vacuum, correct? If so, then I’ll have to keep it from venting when the engine is on. I know that the manufacturer of the Yukon’s aluminum catch warns that freezing wx could cause their cups to crack open if not emptied. I just don’t want to dump this thing every few days.

The PCV circuit is a vacuum. It pulls on the driver side valve rocker cover from the intake manifold.

Having the catch can gravity drain into a larger container won't hurt anything. It'll just give you more capacity.

They work by filtering, plain and simple. The oily air flows from the rocker cover to the intake manifold through a pipe. The catch can goes inline of this circuit. The oily air goes into the catch can and the oil droplets stick to the media while the air continues on through and out of the catch can and on into the intake manifold. The oil droplets in the media collect with other droplets (coalesce) and become too heave to ride the airflow so they dip down into the reservoir. Any airflow just skims right over the collected oil. It's like holding a shop vac over a puddle of water- nothing really happens until you get the end right at the surface of the water or stick the end into the water. A remote container would just be like having a larger reservoir on the catch can itself.
 

89Suburban

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I got home about an hour ago. 550 miles expressway since I drained it a couple days ago. I’m guessing 3oz here?

View attachment 363151


Mine will look like that sometimes in the winter time. I don't use any media in my canister. I tried it and it didn't seem to make a difference and it makes it twice the mess it has to be when you have to empty it out. Works just fine empty for me. Just be glad that stuff isn't getting sucked back into the intake.

As long as your dipstick & underside of the oil cap doesn't look like that I wouldn't worry about it. I think it is a condensate thing strictly to do with the catch can setup.
 
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As long as your dipstick & underside of the oil cap doesn't look like that I wouldn't worry about it. I think it is a condensate thing strictly to do with the catch can setup.
Yup, in colder weather hot oil vapor from engine going into cooler external catch can will have more condensate (water) in it.

I wouldn't worry about it
 
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trailblazer

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I’m assuming it is a real good thing that these cans are extracting the moisture from the crankcase? I know airplane guys run dehumidifiers (basically fish tank pumps that push air thru desiccant) in order to preserve their motors from corroding during non-flying time.
 
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I just emptied mine. I empty it at oil change and halfway through the oil life monitor.

It's been 4 months (Oct. 10th) and 2410 miles since my last oil change. I do 5000 mile oil changes. Oil life monitor is saying 48%

This is a kids Olive Garden cup. The bottom half of what's in the cup is water..... 20220220_164201.jpg
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20220220_164229.jpg
 

donjetman

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I don't know?? We use our Denali to run back and forth between TX and the CO mtns in the winter and spring where it's cold. No condensation.

Trailblazer may have a leak allowing moist outside air into the crankcase and he has stuck rings. IMO, that amount of oil and condensation is unhealthy evidence.
 
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trailblazer

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I’m gonna install one of these catch cans on my ‘10 F-150 4.6l to pull out the water in that too. Bought two of these for $5.75/ea on fleabay:
 
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I’m gonna install one of these catch cans on my ‘10 F-150 4.6l to pull out the water in that too. Bought two of these for $5.75/ea on fleabay:
The catch can doesn't "pull out the water"

Usually when the engine gets up to operating temperature any condensation in the crankcase will boil off into steam.

Constant short trips, where the engine doesn't get up to operating temp, will not let the water boil off and the oil (and under the oil cap) will look milky.

In the colder weather, the catch can will get condensation inside it just because it's away from the engine and has cooler air around it and then gets hot oil vapor ran through it from the engine. The temp inside the catch can will not get hot enough to boil off any moisture and it gets stuck inside the can. That condensation inside the can will mix with the oil that has been caught from the engine and cause it to look milky.
 

Geoffsfas10

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Rather then start a thread, im dig this one up...

who here's swapped out ball valve that came with yours? the one that came with my amazon can seems to leak a bunch from the handle, it needs to be replaced and the valve seems to be a weird one.
 
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Rather then start a thread, im dig this one up...

who here's swapped out ball valve that came with yours? the one that came with my amazon can seems to leak a bunch from the handle, it needs to be replaced and the valve seems to be a weird one.
My can came with a petcock style valve that screws out. I replaced it with a ball valve style.

1/4" available at Home Depot by the air compressor accessories

Screenshot_20230713-193854_Home Depot.jpg

Or if you don't like the long handle, any 1/4" mini ball valve on Amazon will work. I used a mini style one on the old catch can I had.

Screenshot_20230713-194848_Amazon Shopping.jpg
 
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Dustin Jackson

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I’m gonna install one of these catch cans on my ‘10 F-150 4.6l to pull out the water in that too. Bought two of these for $5.75/ea on fleabay:
How does the underside of your oil cap look? I am guessing wherever you live is very humid
 

Geoffsfas10

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My can came with a petcock style valve that screws out. I replaced it with a ball valve style.

1/4" available at Home Depot by the air compressor accessories

View attachment 403951

Or if you don't like the long handle, any 1/4" mini ball valve on Amazon will work. I used a mini style one on the old catch can I had.

View attachment 403952

Did that size work for yours? those valves seem small compared to the one i have, but im getting pretty tired of the oily water puddles. i want to say mine needs a 3/8" valve
 
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