Bolt In Roller Pins -- Cunningham Machine

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Mean_Green

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On another thread somebody mentioned getting hinge pin bushings from Cunningham Machine and having a bump shop install them. That got me looking at their site where I found these roller pins that bolt in instead of some of the other methods from GM and aftermarket sellers.

These are machined by hand from stainless steel and they claim they've never had a problem with failures as so many have complained about with the Dormans and others. Big issue with the GM is retaining from the top since there is no pin hole or circlip groove. No issue here. Very easy to install also since it comes in two pieces. Lower machined portion with the roller pushes up from below and a bolt pulls it into place.

They fit tight and some comments on their site mentioned tapping in from below with a soft faced hammer. There really isn't much room for that with the door on however. The 3 1/2" bolt they provide is just a bit short for this task so as not to bottom out when installed. I picked up a 4" bolt that did the trick though. Lodge the bottom pin enough to stay in place. That can be done by hand. Then drop the 4" bolt down from above and use a 1/4" ratchet with a 1/2" socket and a couple of extensions that reach above the fender. A few turns pulls the bottom portion into place, then remoce the longer bolt and install the one provided to snug it up.

I have a spring tool on order, so that part can't be done just yet.

PinLower1.jpg
PinLower2.jpg


PinUpper1.jpg


PinUpper2.jpg
PinDone.jpg






I don't think it took me 10 minutes to get this one in and might take less for the second one now that I know the steps.
 
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Mean_Green

Mean_Green

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The pins themselves:

I laid the bolt beside the pin that way to keep it from rolling off the hood for the picture.


Pin 1.jpg




Pin 2.jpg




Pin 3.jpg



The shop is staffed by just a few people and the parts are made on site just outside Murray, KY.


Roller pins are $30 each.







I though about putting this in the Vendor section, but I don't know what the rules are for that and didn't get a reply to my inquiries.
 
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Mean_Green

Mean_Green

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The bolt doesn't do anything but hold the lower portion in place. The work is done by the brass roller. Probably need to get a couple more pictures once I get the springs in place.

This in the way GM should have done it to begin with, but they don't always think about serviceability.
 

east302

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Good write-up, thanks for posting this. Question - how did you cut the top of the old pin off? The last ones that I did, I had the door off and had plenty of room to get in there with a cutting wheel. I have another truck that needs this done in the worst way - this looks like a perfect solution.
 
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Mean_Green

Mean_Green

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Dremel type rotary tool with (of all things) a diamond chain saw sharpening bit did most of the cutting. Switched off to a small rotary stone for part of it. Took maybe 10-15 minutes. I had room to work, but one of the add-on flexible extensions might help.

Once ground down flush, I sharpened a piece of 18" rebar down to just less than the diameter of the remaining pin. That was long enough to align and tap with a hammer from above the fender line. A few gentle taps and the pin fell out.

Might want to tie a string or something around the bottom of the pin so you don't have to fish it out of the fender well like I did. Some cloth around the area to protect the paint helps too.
 
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Mean_Green

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Passenger side's done. Spring tool arrived yesterday and I got to it this morning. Total time grinding old pin off, installing new pin and spring, probably less than a half hour if I had everything on hand and could do it without breaks.

Complete.jpg


Complete2.jpg
 

Eman85

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Looks like a quality piece, anything is better than the Dorman junk we've been using. Did you replace the bushings too? I've not tried the Cunningham bushings yet, I did buy the GM bolt in pin and bushing kit with the grease fittings for my pickup. If I do another I'm going to try their bushings.
 
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Mean_Green

Mean_Green

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I did buy the GM bolt in pin and bushing kit with the grease fittings
Say what now?


I have the Cunningham bushings for the left door, but haven't tackled that side yet. I'm going to take this second roller pin around to a couple of local shops so they can see it, handle it and maybe buy some of them.
 

Eman85

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Say what now?


I have the Cunningham bushings for the left door, but haven't tackled that side yet. I'm going to take this second roller pin around to a couple of local shops so they can see it, handle it and maybe buy some of them.
 

Eman85

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Well, it's kind of like the Cunningham roller for $35 or the Dorman 1 for $7 or 8. I would have bought the Cunningham roller instead of the Dorman for sure. I have done plenty of the pins and bushings and some multiple times because of the junk parts available. The difference in price is worth it for me to not have to do jobs twice or 3 times because of junk parts.
On my PU and the Tahoe, both which had bushings put in previously, the bushings disintegrated to the point that the door hung low when closed. It would cause the door panel to catch and prevent the door from opening. You only need that level of aggravation once when you can't get out of your own truck because the cheapo parts that you've already replaced have failed.
 
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Mean_Green

Mean_Green

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I got the Cunningham bushings, I just haven't taken on that task yet. I'm hoping I can re-use the original pins.
 

Eman85

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Easiest way I have found for pins and bushings is to use my engine hoist. I use a fan belt and loop it around the door. The other way I've done it is with support underneath and slide the door back a little. I've done it both ways with no help, much easier if you have some help. Tape the door and the fender before you start for protection.
 
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Mean_Green

Mean_Green

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Bushings are in. Only had to do the driver's door. Pretty simple process as far as the work goes, once you figure out the steps and get the door supported. Had to drive the old ones out, then used the bolt and nut trick to press the new ones in. Re-used the old pins. Roller pin is in also and the spring is set.

Door1.jpg


Door2.jpg




Straps allowed enough swing to position the door while working with the pins and tools without risk of dropping.
 
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Mean_Green

Mean_Green

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I posted reviews for both items on their website. This was one:



One of the problems with the GM OEM and the aftermarket units like Dormans is that the pin the roller rides on is a separate piece inserted into the bottom of the main pin. That’s what moves and breaks off. These are machined from a solid blank so what the roller rides on is part of the main section. I don’t see how it could ever break off.

Installation is simple but the bottom section is a tight fit and will not just slide into place far enough for the bolt (inserted from the top) to catch threads. To avoid having to tap or pound the roller upwards, use a 4″ bolt initially to catch the threads and pull the bottom section part way through. Then remove the longer bolt and use the supplied 3 1/2″ bolt to finish and secure.

The most time consuming part of the job is grinding the top off the original pins to be able to drive them out. Once that’s done, these install in less than five minutes. No need to remove the door at all.



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east302

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Hey, how are these Cunningham rollers holding up? I’m thinking of ordering some soon.
 
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Mean_Green

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Fine so far. Haven't noticed any problems.

Driver's door has probably only been opened a couple of hundred times total though. Passenger door a lot less.
 

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