Hinge pins.......and more

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Donf

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Bounced over a curb awhile back, fast. At least fast enough to blow a nearly new tire. Anyway, shortly afterwards I discovered my door was off a hair and the latch was loose. The latch was easy (once I located the 2 screws I was missing) but I deduced(with help frorm this forum) that my door pins must be shot although they had been lubed twice a year since new.but then I rrealized that the was no "stop" to my door and that my spring was missing from the door. Got the spring (and install tool) from CM, and that is where it took an ugly turn. The little "dogleg" part has no place to be pushed against.

The part of the pin that has the roller is gone (yellow brackets)
left hinge.jpg



On the right door the pin is longer and has a roller (green brackets)
Right Hinge.jpg


My question is, do I need to replace the entire hinge or can I just replace the pin? The pin doesn't look replaceable to me but while I think I could replace the hinge pins by myself, the hinge I'm not so sure about.
 
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Eman85

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Done a few, Cunningham makes good pins/bushings and a replacement roller. Dorman makes a roller replacement which is not high quality but it works. GM makes the cadillac of door pin replacement kits, pricey but it will be one and done and it's got a lube fitting.
I use my engine hoist to hold the door but have done it with milk crates and an assortment of wood to hold the door up. I'm usually alone when I do them but if you have help it's easier. The tool for the spring is all you need. Tape the fender and door before you start.
 

kbuskill

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I just replaced my roller pins on my 2008 Suburban with the ones from Cunningham Machine. The tool is practically useless for getting them out or in because there simply isn't enough room to get the tool in there, at least on the GMT900 platform.

I did use the tool after the spring was out to compress the spring and run multiple zip ties through them to keep them somewhat compressed to make the install a little easier and then just used two flat head screwdrivers to coax the spring back into place.
 

kbuskill

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I'm not sure about the ones for the GMT400s but the ones from CM for my GMT900 has the bolt at the top and a splined section at the bottom that is supposed to be drawn up into the lower portion of the hinge. However, the splined section on the pin seemed to be to small and didn't actually grab anything so the bolt/nut at the top is the only thing holding them in.

Did anyone else have this issue?

It would have been nice if it would have grabbed into the hinge so the pin doesn't try to spin while tightening the nut on top.
 

east302

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It’s been a couple of years, but I did one on a 2008 and put a socket over the zerk fitting and tapped it up. I don’t remember it being a super loose fit. The nut at the top didn’t really have to draw it up then.
 

kbuskill

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It’s been a couple of years, but I did one on a 2008 and put a socket over the zerk fitting and tapped it up. I don’t remember it being a super loose fit. The nut at the top didn’t really have to draw it up then.
Weird, no zerk fitting on mine.
 

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