Bolt In Roller Pins -- Cunningham Machine

[Mean_Green]

Interesting, but $105.00

 

[Eman85]

Well, it's kind of like the Cunningham roller for $35 or the Dorman 1 for $7 or 8. I would have bought the Cunningham roller instead of the Dorman for sure. I have done plenty of the pins and bushings and some multiple times because of the junk parts available. The difference in price is worth it for me to not have to do jobs twice or 3 times because of junk parts.
On my PU and the Tahoe, both which had bushings put in previously, the bushings disintegrated to the point that the door hung low when closed. It would cause the door panel to catch and prevent the door from opening. You only need that level of aggravation once when you can't get out of your own truck because the cheapo parts that you've already replaced have failed.

 

[Mean_Green]

I got the Cunningham bushings, I just haven't taken on that task yet. I'm hoping I can re-use the original pins.

 

[Eman85]

Easiest way I have found for pins and bushings is to use my engine hoist. I use a fan belt and loop it around the door. The other way I've done it is with support underneath and slide the door back a little. I've done it both ways with no help, much easier if you have some help. Tape the door and the fender before you start for protection.

 

[Mean_Green]

Bushings are in. Only had to do the driver's door. Pretty simple process as far as the work goes, once you figure out the steps and get the door supported. Had to drive the old ones out, then used the bolt and nut trick to press the new ones in. Re-used the old pins. Roller pin is in also and the spring is set.







Straps allowed enough swing to position the door while working with the pins and tools without risk of dropping.

 

[Eman85]

No tape on door or fender, brave soul.

 

[Mean_Green]

That's why the old sweater was jammed in there.

 

[Mean_Green]

I posted reviews for both items on their website. This was one:



One of the problems with the GM OEM and the aftermarket units like Dormans is that the pin the roller rides on is a separate piece inserted into the bottom of the main pin. That’s what moves and breaks off. These are machined from a solid blank so what the roller rides on is part of the main section. I don’t see how it could ever break off.

Installation is simple but the bottom section is a tight fit and will not just slide into place far enough for the bolt (inserted from the top) to catch threads. To avoid having to tap or pound the roller upwards, use a 4″ bolt initially to catch the threads and pull the bottom section part way through. Then remove the longer bolt and use the supplied 3 1/2″ bolt to finish and secure.

The most time consuming part of the job is grinding the top off the original pins to be able to drive them out. Once that’s done, these install in less than five minutes. No need to remove the door at all.


They deleted both without explanation.

 

[east302]

Hey, how are these Cunningham rollers holding up? I’m thinking of ordering some soon.

 

[Mean_Green]

Fine so far. Haven't noticed any problems.

Driver's door has probably only been opened a couple of hundred times total though. Passenger door a lot less.