Beginning rebuild on Escalade LQ9 motor

[02EscaNate]

Decided to o ahead and rebuild my engine. Right now I’m trying to decide if I want to hop it up while it’s going to be torn apart. Haven’t decided on L92 heads, as replacement LQ9 heads are dirt cheap and would let me keep my intake.

As far as the cam goes, is there a good cam that would up the power but still idle smooth and keep it easy to daily? I was thinking maybe an LS6 or LS7 cam.


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[Tonyrodz]

Sub'd for the build.

 

[iamdub]

For the cam: Low-.220s intake and high .220s exhaust, no tighter than 113 LSA, no more than around .590 lift, around 111 ICL maxing around 2 degrees advanced

Top it with a set of cleaned and/or rebuilt 243s and you'd have an iron block LS2 with snappy low-end torque and strong pull throughout the rev range. You'd have to have a good tune and run premium (which is required anyway on the LQ9, I believe)

A converter just a little more loose than stock would compliment it but not hurt the streetability.

 

[95escahoe]

Following


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[02EscaNate]

I think we got ourselves a build thread...


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[02EscaNate]

Started on the top of the motor and found the culprit. Looks like a spring busted, but from what I can see the valve is still there and the clip is in place. Turned the motor over by hand and it still moves with the lifter. Any chance I won the lottery and don’t have a bent valve?

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[swathdiver]

The aforementioned camshafts will kill your bottom end torque; they were made for cars.

Your stock camshaft (12561721) is 196-207 .467-.479 116

Cam Motion has a replacement truck cam that does not require higher lift springs: 204-212 .501-.501 116 or one that does with a .553 lift on both sides. The LS6's numbers aren't much different than these but the shape of the lobe sure is.

Hopefully the piston ain't broke neither! All my previous rides had dual valve springs and never had a valve kiss a piston.

 

[08grey]

I'm tuned in.

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[Nashoba]

Yep, me, too.

 

[02EscaNate]

Well, hands were too nasty to take a pic on my phone, but I was able to wrestle the intake manifold out. This engine leaked from the valve cover gaskets a long time ago, and it shows. Black nasty oil on everything on top of the engine.

Also was able to loosen the exhaust bolts with WD-40 “blue flame” and muscle. So far so good. Plan on tackling those next and getting one step closer to getting this engine on a stand.


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[04Huck]

Will be watching this build. Hoping I can score an LQ4 or an LQ9 on the cheap later this year


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[02EscaNate]

Will be watching this build. Hoping I can score an LQ4 or an LQ9 on the cheap later this year


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Nice! I think the LQ4s are more common, and can be had for a bit less from what I hear. Only difference is dished pistons instead of flat-tops.


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[bottomline2000]

L92 heads and ls7 cam are both going to hurt your low end power. You have to think big heavy truck, not corvette with these mods. Cathedral over square ports for torque..

Interesting article on GM cams in a 5.3..the 6.0 numbers would obviously be higher but overall effect the same.

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/ls-cam-test-comparison/


As an example I run a Vinci trucker cam in my 6.0 which I'm sure makes less power down low than a stock cam as mine doesn't start making power till 1900rpm, but I have a 3k stall and I don't see the lower rpm loss for the most part and jump right into the heart of the tq range and walk away from a stock 6.0 from there..

Look at the big picture and decide on your goals and decide how aggressive you want to go..I'm sure GM has a combo that will work for ya, but also consider the above options..

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[02EscaNate]

Weather is getting straight unpredictable here. 70 and sunny one day then cold and rainy the next. Haven’t been able to work on the truck much but figured I’d show my handiwork so far.

I don’t think I’ve shared any pics of the outside, so here’s a couple. It’s actually a 2001.5 model year, since Cadillac technically skipped over 2001. Color is Aspen white, which was only offered for a few months until they switched to pearl. I think I like the bright white better though especially when it’s clean.

Aaaand here’s the progress (?) so far. I probably didn’t need to take the manifold off, but it just gives me that much more room to maneuver around and it’ll be easier to get it attached to the hoist.

Next steps are all under the car, unfortunately. I’m in no way looking forward to attacking the rusty exhaust bolts, and the bellhousing bolts are going to be a royal pain to get to. All part of the experience I guess...



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[Onebadsss]

Saw this on eBay, might help make hoisting the motor out easier?

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/281674612989

 

[02EscaNate]

Saw this on eBay, might help make hoisting the motor out easier?

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/281674612989

Definitely. I’ve seen people just hook a chain to the block/heads, but this seems like a better route.


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[Onebadsss]

Definitely. I’ve seen people just hook a chain to the block/heads, but this seems like a better route.


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Yeah that idea is no bueno. This hoist seems much more secure

 

[bottomline2000]

Definitely. I’ve seen people just hook a chain to the block/heads, but this seems like a better route.


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The plate is much better route. I hooked a chain to the heads and pulled my motor, but there was always the chance of the motor becoming unbalanced and rocking in either direction. Hook the hoist directly to the pate and have at it. Either way without the intake is much better.

As far as the bellhousing bolts you can remove the trans cross member and lower the tran and get the upper bolts.. raise the trans back up and put the cross member back in. Then you can run straps to hold the front of the trans up and remove the remaining lower bolts.

I would do this after disconnecting the harness and everything else from the motor first. Pull the manifolds after you get the motor out.

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[05alive]

So in!

 

[Rocket Man]

I'm in.