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2013 Escalade ESV DOD full delete becoming rebuild
- Thread starter skpyle
- Start date
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CATCH UP:
Overhauled transmission back from the shop.
Overhaul markings.
Using my engine hoist and straps to mount the transmission to the engine stand and adapter. My mind still thinks I can. My back absolutely dares me to. Hence, the lifting device.
Minty fresh new bellhousing and bolts.
All good at the business end, too. New bolts for the transfer case adapter.
More later...
Overhauled transmission back from the shop.
Overhaul markings.
Using my engine hoist and straps to mount the transmission to the engine stand and adapter. My mind still thinks I can. My back absolutely dares me to. Hence, the lifting device.
Minty fresh new bellhousing and bolts.
All good at the business end, too. New bolts for the transfer case adapter.
More later...
Last edited:
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CATCH UP:
Here is the parts list for the overhauled 6L80 transmission:
GM Genuine/ACDelco:
24248031 bellhousing
24248573 > 24289721 front pump cover kit
24227061 front pump cover mounting bolt (qty 9)
24272475 overhaul seal kit
24224781 pan gasket
24272467 valve body separator plate
24275873 > D45420BD Valve assembly, control solenoid (w/body & TCM) (new TEHCM)
24224692 thrust washer
24260139 ring kit, retainer
24248957 > 24050201 sprag kit, low clutch
24224172 piston assembly, low-rev clutch
24224708 dam assembly 1-2-3-4 clutch piston
24224169 piston assembly 2-6 clutch
24258082 3-5-R steel, single
24235681 3-5-R friction, single
24258083 4-5-6 steel
24224158 4-5-6 friction
24284707 speed sensors set
24258550 range selector switch/throttle control assembly
24280048 park rod assembly
24236517 filter
11515767 transfer case adapter bolt (qty 6)
Sonnax:
ZIP 6L45-6L90 Kit
104984-01 6L80|6L90 1-2-3-4 Clutch Piston HD
104960-01K HD 4-5-6 clutch apply piston kit
104548-01 High Capacity 3-5-R Apply Ring
104584LP output planetary lube dam
Transtar:
A104531CK pump rotor kit (GFX Pro 408288 pump kit)
A104554A 1-4 3-5/R drum
A104200K endplay control shim kit
Raybestos:
1558-KIT High Energy friction module
STMGM06K GM 6L80 Kolene Steel Module
TransGo:
6L8 CS-TCC clutch select valves
More later...
Here is the parts list for the overhauled 6L80 transmission:
GM Genuine/ACDelco:
24248031 bellhousing
24248573 > 24289721 front pump cover kit
24227061 front pump cover mounting bolt (qty 9)
24272475 overhaul seal kit
24224781 pan gasket
24272467 valve body separator plate
24275873 > D45420BD Valve assembly, control solenoid (w/body & TCM) (new TEHCM)
24224692 thrust washer
24260139 ring kit, retainer
24248957 > 24050201 sprag kit, low clutch
24224172 piston assembly, low-rev clutch
24224708 dam assembly 1-2-3-4 clutch piston
24224169 piston assembly 2-6 clutch
24258082 3-5-R steel, single
24235681 3-5-R friction, single
24258083 4-5-6 steel
24224158 4-5-6 friction
24284707 speed sensors set
24258550 range selector switch/throttle control assembly
24280048 park rod assembly
24236517 filter
11515767 transfer case adapter bolt (qty 6)
Sonnax:
ZIP 6L45-6L90 Kit
104984-01 6L80|6L90 1-2-3-4 Clutch Piston HD
104960-01K HD 4-5-6 clutch apply piston kit
104548-01 High Capacity 3-5-R Apply Ring
104584LP output planetary lube dam
Transtar:
A104531CK pump rotor kit (GFX Pro 408288 pump kit)
A104554A 1-4 3-5/R drum
A104200K endplay control shim kit
Raybestos:
1558-KIT High Energy friction module
STMGM06K GM 6L80 Kolene Steel Module
TransGo:
6L8 CS-TCC clutch select valves
More later...
Marky Dissod
Full Access Member
Are you replacing the torque converter? If so, which replacement did you choose?
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CVC remanufactured torque converter with billet front plate and better lock up clutch friction.
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CURRENTLY:
As seen in the above post, I purchased a remanufactured torque converter for my 6L80. It is a CVC brand, BU60HD, part number CV-GM10405-S1. I ordered it from Transend parts.
Reman on left, OEM on right.
Billet cover and mounting pads on reman.
Steel cover and mounting pads on OEM.
Still working on it...
As seen in the above post, I purchased a remanufactured torque converter for my 6L80. It is a CVC brand, BU60HD, part number CV-GM10405-S1. I ordered it from Transend parts.
Reman on left, OEM on right.
Billet cover and mounting pads on reman.
Steel cover and mounting pads on OEM.
Still working on it...
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CURRENTLY:
I poured a quart of Dexron VI into the reman torque converter. Sorry about the blurry photo.
I lubricated the snout of the reman torque converter and the seal on the transmission front pump with transmission assembly lube.
I installed the reman torque converter into the transmission, and felt 3 'clunks' as I turned it. When I removed the transmission, but before removing the OEM torque converter, I measured the distance from the mounting pads to the bellhousing. With the OEM torque converter pushed back into the pump, distance was just under 1". On the reman torque converter, the distance was also just under 1".
I ordered new bolts to mount the torque converter to the flexplate. I noted the new bolts did not have the hex recess of the OEM ones. Sorry the first photo was blurry.
Still working on it...
I poured a quart of Dexron VI into the reman torque converter. Sorry about the blurry photo.
I lubricated the snout of the reman torque converter and the seal on the transmission front pump with transmission assembly lube.
I installed the reman torque converter into the transmission, and felt 3 'clunks' as I turned it. When I removed the transmission, but before removing the OEM torque converter, I measured the distance from the mounting pads to the bellhousing. With the OEM torque converter pushed back into the pump, distance was just under 1". On the reman torque converter, the distance was also just under 1".
I ordered new bolts to mount the torque converter to the flexplate. I noted the new bolts did not have the hex recess of the OEM ones. Sorry the first photo was blurry.
Still working on it...
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CURRENTLY:
Now, here is another one of those mistakes I made. Have any of you heard of 'shimming a torque converter'? It is putting washers or spacers between the torque converter mounting pads and the flexplate. This ensures the torque converter snout is not excessively pulled out of the front pump rotor.
I got it in my head that I needed to shim this torque converter. I did some measuring and found some 0.120" thick large diameter washers that would work great. I tried to adhere them to the reman torque converter mounting pads with super glue. I used the OEM bolts to hold the washers in place as the glue dried.
Fail. Washers fell off as I pulled the bolts off.
I tried again with Yamabond case sealant. That worked.
We will gloss over the fiasco of installing the transmission for now.
Once the transmission was installed, I rotated the torque converter to line up the mounting pads with the flexplate holes. On an LS and 6L80, all you have is a small window at the starter pocket.
Well...while rotating the torque converter to line the holes up, a one of the washers fell out. And then a second.
I was frustrated at this point, having gone through the transmission install, and now this. For a moment, I considered giving up and just knocking out the third washer. (I should have...[ominous music]) However, the third washer stayed and I got a bolt through it.
So...I kept at it. I rotated the crankshaft to bring a mounting hole directly at the bottom at the bellhousing access hole. Since there was one bolt in the torque converter, it rotated with the flexplate. I was able to push a washer in between the flexplate and mounting pad. Then rotate the crankshaft around to move that flexplate hole to the little window at the starter pocket. And then got a bolt through it. Repeat for the third washer. Now, with all the bolts and washers installed, go back around and torque all the bolts to 47 lbs/ft.
Took over an hour, but I got it.
However...something was nagging at the back of my mind. Before I went to bed, I dug around the internet, and the service manual.
And realized I screwed up. Shimming is mainly done with 'custom builds'. IE aftermarket torque converters, flexplates, and such. OEM/stock builds should not need it. Both custom and stock builds require 1/8-3/16" clearance between the torque converter mounting pads and the flexplate with the torque converter pushed back into the pump.
And I had none.
In the morning, I went back out and removed all the bolts and knocked all the washers out. I rotated the flexplate so a mounting hole was down at the bottom access hole in the bellhousing, then rotated the torque converter to bring a mounting pad into alignment. I gently pushed the torque converter back into the front pump. I was able to measure and verify the distance between the torque converter mounting pad and the bellhousing face was still just under 1". And there was approximately 0.115" clearance between the torque converter mounting pad and the flexplate. That is just under the 1/8" (0.125") minimum clearance, but I think it will be OK.
I put blue loctite on the torque converter mounting bolts, and bolted the torque converter to the flexplate for the second time.
Yes, I am an idiot for doing that. But, I caught it. No broken front pump in the transmission or on wasted thrust bearing in the engine.
I can live with that.
One of the new torque converter mounting bolts(no washer) as seen through the little starter pocket window.
Access hole at the bottom of the bellhousing where you can see the flexplate and the torque converter.
Still working on it...
Now, here is another one of those mistakes I made. Have any of you heard of 'shimming a torque converter'? It is putting washers or spacers between the torque converter mounting pads and the flexplate. This ensures the torque converter snout is not excessively pulled out of the front pump rotor.
I got it in my head that I needed to shim this torque converter. I did some measuring and found some 0.120" thick large diameter washers that would work great. I tried to adhere them to the reman torque converter mounting pads with super glue. I used the OEM bolts to hold the washers in place as the glue dried.
Fail. Washers fell off as I pulled the bolts off.
I tried again with Yamabond case sealant. That worked.
We will gloss over the fiasco of installing the transmission for now.
Once the transmission was installed, I rotated the torque converter to line up the mounting pads with the flexplate holes. On an LS and 6L80, all you have is a small window at the starter pocket.
Well...while rotating the torque converter to line the holes up, a one of the washers fell out. And then a second.
I was frustrated at this point, having gone through the transmission install, and now this. For a moment, I considered giving up and just knocking out the third washer. (I should have...[ominous music]) However, the third washer stayed and I got a bolt through it.
So...I kept at it. I rotated the crankshaft to bring a mounting hole directly at the bottom at the bellhousing access hole. Since there was one bolt in the torque converter, it rotated with the flexplate. I was able to push a washer in between the flexplate and mounting pad. Then rotate the crankshaft around to move that flexplate hole to the little window at the starter pocket. And then got a bolt through it. Repeat for the third washer. Now, with all the bolts and washers installed, go back around and torque all the bolts to 47 lbs/ft.
Took over an hour, but I got it.
However...something was nagging at the back of my mind. Before I went to bed, I dug around the internet, and the service manual.
And realized I screwed up. Shimming is mainly done with 'custom builds'. IE aftermarket torque converters, flexplates, and such. OEM/stock builds should not need it. Both custom and stock builds require 1/8-3/16" clearance between the torque converter mounting pads and the flexplate with the torque converter pushed back into the pump.
And I had none.
In the morning, I went back out and removed all the bolts and knocked all the washers out. I rotated the flexplate so a mounting hole was down at the bottom access hole in the bellhousing, then rotated the torque converter to bring a mounting pad into alignment. I gently pushed the torque converter back into the front pump. I was able to measure and verify the distance between the torque converter mounting pad and the bellhousing face was still just under 1". And there was approximately 0.115" clearance between the torque converter mounting pad and the flexplate. That is just under the 1/8" (0.125") minimum clearance, but I think it will be OK.
I put blue loctite on the torque converter mounting bolts, and bolted the torque converter to the flexplate for the second time.
Yes, I am an idiot for doing that. But, I caught it. No broken front pump in the transmission or on wasted thrust bearing in the engine.
I can live with that.
One of the new torque converter mounting bolts(no washer) as seen through the little starter pocket window.
Access hole at the bottom of the bellhousing where you can see the flexplate and the torque converter.
Still working on it...
That's a great tip. I'd also suggest making a mark across the inspection hole in line with the mounting pads before you unbolt the converter from the flexplate, in case the converter shifts during the removal of the transmission.
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CATCH UP:
Took a moment for some rocker arm shennanigans.
Rocker arm roller bearing trunion upgrade time! Circlips, installation washers, side washers, trunions, and roller bearings.
BTR TK002 V2 rocker arm trunion upgrade kit.
JSPP LS Rocker Arm Trunion Install Tool
Top view of rocker with upgraded trunion. Note it is flat on top. This is where the mounting bolt flange sits. Also note the two small grooves on either side of the bolt hole. These let oil drip down into the needle bearings.
More later...
Took a moment for some rocker arm shennanigans.
Rocker arm roller bearing trunion upgrade time! Circlips, installation washers, side washers, trunions, and roller bearings.
BTR TK002 V2 rocker arm trunion upgrade kit.
JSPP LS Rocker Arm Trunion Install Tool
Top view of rocker with upgraded trunion. Note it is flat on top. This is where the mounting bolt flange sits. Also note the two small grooves on either side of the bolt hole. These let oil drip down into the needle bearings.
More later...
Last edited:
Same kit i installed.
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CATCH UP:
Side view of rocker with side washer and circlip on trunion.
Bottom view of rocker arm and trunion. Note it is round on the bottom.
Installing the new roller bearings and trunions was not difficult, just finicky. There was a trick you had to figure out on how to hold the tool, the installation washers, the bearings, and the rocker arm bodies to get them all together. That, and you want some sturdy snap ring pliers. The snap rings were stout. I lubricated the roller bearings with engine oil before assembly.
I want to bring up something I learned while working on this engine. It is in regards to cleaning. I am OCD about cleaning engine parts and such. I have a parts washer. I buy brake cleaner by the case, and have my own personal hole in the ozone layer above my workshop. I have my enameled stew pot of ancient carb dip. But, I have never really found a good degreaser for parts. Simple Green is good for general cleaning, though I don't leave it on aluminum. But it doesn't do much for oil/greasy parts.
I have had ultrasonic cleaners for years. I have had some 'take no prisoners' cleaning solutions. One I have been using for years is powerful. However, it is expensive at $60 a gallon. And it tends to discolor aluminum. I spent some time googling cleaning solutions safe for aluminum in an ultrasonic cleaner.
And found Simple Green Pro. It is pinkish-purple. And it WORKS!!!
I purchased a small 1.8L ultrasonic cleaner for small parts and hardware. (I also have a larger 15L for bigger parts. It got used on this project.) I mixed up a 4:1 ratio of tap water and Simple Green Pro. I let it heat to 50C, then put the rocker arm bodies in. Let them clean for 30 minutes, rinse with water. And they were immaculate! No scrubbing, no effort on my part. All the oil varnish gone!
I used the heck out of Simple Green Pro on this project. Any hardware that would fit, got cleaned in the little ultrasonic cleaner. ALL bolts and nuts that were not replaced with new, went through the ultrasonic cleaner. I buy it off Amazon for $15 a gallon.
With the rocker arms done, it was time to get back to real work and disassemble the cylinder heads.
Driver's side cylinder head. Note the open hole to the left of the leftmost exhaust port. That is for the coolant temperature sensor. Note the upper area of the cylinder head under the valve cover is relatively dirty with oil varnish. If I understand correctly, this is because the PCV side is the driver's side.
Passenger's side cylinder head. Note the plug in the hole to the left of the leftmost exhaust port. Note the upper area of the cylinder head under the valve cover is relatively cleaner than that on the driver's side head.
Driver's side cylinder head. I 'think' these combustion chambers look OK for burn pattern and carbon buildup.
More later...
Side view of rocker with side washer and circlip on trunion.
Bottom view of rocker arm and trunion. Note it is round on the bottom.
Installing the new roller bearings and trunions was not difficult, just finicky. There was a trick you had to figure out on how to hold the tool, the installation washers, the bearings, and the rocker arm bodies to get them all together. That, and you want some sturdy snap ring pliers. The snap rings were stout. I lubricated the roller bearings with engine oil before assembly.
I want to bring up something I learned while working on this engine. It is in regards to cleaning. I am OCD about cleaning engine parts and such. I have a parts washer. I buy brake cleaner by the case, and have my own personal hole in the ozone layer above my workshop. I have my enameled stew pot of ancient carb dip. But, I have never really found a good degreaser for parts. Simple Green is good for general cleaning, though I don't leave it on aluminum. But it doesn't do much for oil/greasy parts.
I have had ultrasonic cleaners for years. I have had some 'take no prisoners' cleaning solutions. One I have been using for years is powerful. However, it is expensive at $60 a gallon. And it tends to discolor aluminum. I spent some time googling cleaning solutions safe for aluminum in an ultrasonic cleaner.
And found Simple Green Pro. It is pinkish-purple. And it WORKS!!!
I purchased a small 1.8L ultrasonic cleaner for small parts and hardware. (I also have a larger 15L for bigger parts. It got used on this project.) I mixed up a 4:1 ratio of tap water and Simple Green Pro. I let it heat to 50C, then put the rocker arm bodies in. Let them clean for 30 minutes, rinse with water. And they were immaculate! No scrubbing, no effort on my part. All the oil varnish gone!
I used the heck out of Simple Green Pro on this project. Any hardware that would fit, got cleaned in the little ultrasonic cleaner. ALL bolts and nuts that were not replaced with new, went through the ultrasonic cleaner. I buy it off Amazon for $15 a gallon.
With the rocker arms done, it was time to get back to real work and disassemble the cylinder heads.
Driver's side cylinder head. Note the open hole to the left of the leftmost exhaust port. That is for the coolant temperature sensor. Note the upper area of the cylinder head under the valve cover is relatively dirty with oil varnish. If I understand correctly, this is because the PCV side is the driver's side.
Passenger's side cylinder head. Note the plug in the hole to the left of the leftmost exhaust port. Note the upper area of the cylinder head under the valve cover is relatively cleaner than that on the driver's side head.
Driver's side cylinder head. I 'think' these combustion chambers look OK for burn pattern and carbon buildup.
More later...
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Valve springs, retainer, and locks. Retainers and locks will be cleaned and reused. Springs are going to be replaced.
Intake and exhaust valves look good for 175,000 miles.
Valve stems don't look awful.
Valve stem seals. This is the second GM engine that I have worked on that has the valve spring seat integrated with the valve stem seal. This L94 6.2L, and the LNJ 3.4L in my wife's 2008 Equinox.
NOTE: the above photos are representative of parts for all 8 cylinders on both heads.
More later...
Valve springs, retainer, and locks. Retainers and locks will be cleaned and reused. Springs are going to be replaced.
Intake and exhaust valves look good for 175,000 miles.
Valve stems don't look awful.
Valve stem seals. This is the second GM engine that I have worked on that has the valve spring seat integrated with the valve stem seal. This L94 6.2L, and the LNJ 3.4L in my wife's 2008 Equinox.
NOTE: the above photos are representative of parts for all 8 cylinders on both heads.
More later...
The seals are designed that way so the valve spring rides on steel. If the spring were riding on the aluminum head they would just beat there way into the aluminum head.
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Driver's side cylinder head.
Passenger's side cylinder head.
Exhaust and intake valve seats look OK for 175,000 miles, with the intake seats looking surprisingly good! (At least to me.)
My intent was to soak the intake valves in my pot of ancient carb dip to remove all the built up carbon and such. Then clean the intake and exhaust valves on my drill press with red scotchbrite pads.
Well...the carb dip didn't do as well as I would have hoped. The valves were not pristine clean.
Talking to my machinist, we was going to glass bead the valves when I brought him the heads anyway.
So I packed everything up and carried both cylinder heads, all 16 valves, all 16 retainers, all 32 locks (had to count those repeatedly to make sure I hadn't lost any ), 16 new GM 12706568 valve springs (for L9H cam), and 16 new Fel-Pro intake and exhaust valve stem seals to my machinist.
I have a 20 year relationship with him, and trust him. I gave him the heads and said 'go through them'.
I also gave him both exhaust manifolds for the cylinder head mating surfaces to be surfaced.
More later...
Driver's side cylinder head.
Passenger's side cylinder head.
Exhaust and intake valve seats look OK for 175,000 miles, with the intake seats looking surprisingly good! (At least to me.)
My intent was to soak the intake valves in my pot of ancient carb dip to remove all the built up carbon and such. Then clean the intake and exhaust valves on my drill press with red scotchbrite pads.
Well...the carb dip didn't do as well as I would have hoped. The valves were not pristine clean.
Talking to my machinist, we was going to glass bead the valves when I brought him the heads anyway.
So I packed everything up and carried both cylinder heads, all 16 valves, all 16 retainers, all 32 locks (had to count those repeatedly to make sure I hadn't lost any ), 16 new GM 12706568 valve springs (for L9H cam), and 16 new Fel-Pro intake and exhaust valve stem seals to my machinist.
I have a 20 year relationship with him, and trust him. I gave him the heads and said 'go through them'.
I also gave him both exhaust manifolds for the cylinder head mating surfaces to be surfaced.
More later...
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I picked up the engine block and crankshaft from my machinist after some time. And my wallet hurt. (I spent $3800 on machining of the block, crank, heads, and exhaust manifolds.)
-engine block: cylinders measured 0.002" oversize at tops of bores and 0.0015" at bottoms. The cylinders could have been honed and I went with standard rings. However, my ethos for this project has more or less been, "Do it once, do it right!"
The block had been bored and honed 0.010" over.
Dura-Bond CHP-25T coated cam bearings had been installed.
The following were supplied with the engine block:
New Silv-O-lite 3530HCA.25MM (0.010" over) hypereutectic pistons with coated skirts and anodized crowns and first ring lands, with new pins and circlips.
New Hastings 2M 5292 010 0.010" over plasma moly piston steel rings.
-crankshaft: my machinist sent it to a specialist shop, where it was determined that a polish would not be enough. The crank was turned and micropolished 0.10"/0.010" mains and rods. I supplied the cleaned rods, used bolts, and the crank pulley to the shop. The crank was then balanced.
The following were supplied with the crankshaft:
New King MB5293SI 010 0.010" undersized main bearings.
New King King CR807SI 010 0.010" undersized rod bearings.
At this point, I was no longer just taking things apart. Things were starting to go back together!
Engine block back from my machinist. NOTE: he did not clean the block. That is my job.
New front cam bearing.
New pistons. I did not expect the anodized crowns.
More later...
I picked up the engine block and crankshaft from my machinist after some time. And my wallet hurt. (I spent $3800 on machining of the block, crank, heads, and exhaust manifolds.)
-engine block: cylinders measured 0.002" oversize at tops of bores and 0.0015" at bottoms. The cylinders could have been honed and I went with standard rings. However, my ethos for this project has more or less been, "Do it once, do it right!"
The block had been bored and honed 0.010" over.
Dura-Bond CHP-25T coated cam bearings had been installed.
The following were supplied with the engine block:
New Silv-O-lite 3530HCA.25MM (0.010" over) hypereutectic pistons with coated skirts and anodized crowns and first ring lands, with new pins and circlips.
New Hastings 2M 5292 010 0.010" over plasma moly piston steel rings.
-crankshaft: my machinist sent it to a specialist shop, where it was determined that a polish would not be enough. The crank was turned and micropolished 0.10"/0.010" mains and rods. I supplied the cleaned rods, used bolts, and the crank pulley to the shop. The crank was then balanced.
The following were supplied with the crankshaft:
New King MB5293SI 010 0.010" undersized main bearings.
New King King CR807SI 010 0.010" undersized rod bearings.
At this point, I was no longer just taking things apart. Things were starting to go back together!
Engine block back from my machinist. NOTE: he did not clean the block. That is my job.
New front cam bearing.
New pistons. I did not expect the anodized crowns.
More later...
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New piston coated skirt and anodized top ring land.
Crankshaft, behind new camshaft.
Main bearings.
Rod bearings.
More later...
New piston coated skirt and anodized top ring land.
Crankshaft, behind new camshaft.
Main bearings.
Rod bearings.
More later...
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As I mentioned in my previous post, the engine block had not been cleaned. I stood the block on its face, intending to clean the back side before I remounted it to the engine stand. I wanted to clean the oil varnish from behind the rear plate. I tried cleaning with gasoline before I sent the block out. It did not really do anything. I had been told diesel fuel would do it. It did not. I resorted to using a red scotchbrite pad to gently scrub the gasket surface. It worked just fine.
This brings up a good point. I have numerous grades of 'whizzy wheels'. And have used the heck out of them on iron engine blocks and iron cylinder heads. I do NOT use them on aluminum. Way too easy to get carried away and start removing metal.
I will, however, gently scrub aluminum by hand with green or red scotchbrite. That has been my intent for this engine. All gasket surfaces have been cleaned and gently scrubbed with scotchbrite to ensure good retention.
Now, I did have some damage control to do. Remember the bellhousing bolt I forgot to remove that we don't talk about? There was a little scarring on the bellhousing face of the engine block. I carefully worked medium and fine files across the surface to knock down any high spots, without creating more low spots.
Ugly and regrettable, but it worked.
I remounted the engine block to the engine stand for the purpose of deep cleaning. Note the oil varnish in the engine valley and the lifter galleries.
Tools of cleaning!
More later...
As I mentioned in my previous post, the engine block had not been cleaned. I stood the block on its face, intending to clean the back side before I remounted it to the engine stand. I wanted to clean the oil varnish from behind the rear plate. I tried cleaning with gasoline before I sent the block out. It did not really do anything. I had been told diesel fuel would do it. It did not. I resorted to using a red scotchbrite pad to gently scrub the gasket surface. It worked just fine.
This brings up a good point. I have numerous grades of 'whizzy wheels'. And have used the heck out of them on iron engine blocks and iron cylinder heads. I do NOT use them on aluminum. Way too easy to get carried away and start removing metal.
I will, however, gently scrub aluminum by hand with green or red scotchbrite. That has been my intent for this engine. All gasket surfaces have been cleaned and gently scrubbed with scotchbrite to ensure good retention.
Now, I did have some damage control to do. Remember the bellhousing bolt I forgot to remove that we don't talk about? There was a little scarring on the bellhousing face of the engine block. I carefully worked medium and fine files across the surface to knock down any high spots, without creating more low spots.
Ugly and regrettable, but it worked.
I remounted the engine block to the engine stand for the purpose of deep cleaning. Note the oil varnish in the engine valley and the lifter galleries.
Tools of cleaning!
More later...
OP
OP
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ALL threaded holes got cleaned out then had a thread chaser run through them. By hand.
I did not have thread chasers long enough for the head bolt and main cap bolt holes. Sooo...I made "poor man's thread chasers" out of one of the old head bolts and one of the old main cap bolts.
I spent 6 hours scrubbing the engine block with various brushes and liberal applications of 1:4 ratio of Simple Green Pro and tap water cleaning the engine block. Every surface I could reach got scrubbed. Repeatedly. Honestly, it ended up being the Simple Green Pro doing the work. Me scrubbing just help agitate the cleaner. Spray, scrub, wait, rinse, repeat. Over and over again. EVERY hole and orifice had brushes and/or thread chasers run through them. EVERY machined surface had razor blades, carbide scraper, and red scotchbrite pads run over them gently by hand until I felt they were clean and smooth. Except the main bearing saddles. They were only scrubbed with red scotchbrite, no razor blades or carbide scraper.
Once all cleaning was done, the engine block was thoroughly rinsed with tap water from the hose. I then air dried it with a hand held blower.
Followed by rinsing with several cans of brake cleaner. All surfaces, all holes, and all orifices got sprayed.
The results speak for themselves...
More later...
ALL threaded holes got cleaned out then had a thread chaser run through them. By hand.
I did not have thread chasers long enough for the head bolt and main cap bolt holes. Sooo...I made "poor man's thread chasers" out of one of the old head bolts and one of the old main cap bolts.
I spent 6 hours scrubbing the engine block with various brushes and liberal applications of 1:4 ratio of Simple Green Pro and tap water cleaning the engine block. Every surface I could reach got scrubbed. Repeatedly. Honestly, it ended up being the Simple Green Pro doing the work. Me scrubbing just help agitate the cleaner. Spray, scrub, wait, rinse, repeat. Over and over again. EVERY hole and orifice had brushes and/or thread chasers run through them. EVERY machined surface had razor blades, carbide scraper, and red scotchbrite pads run over them gently by hand until I felt they were clean and smooth. Except the main bearing saddles. They were only scrubbed with red scotchbrite, no razor blades or carbide scraper.
Once all cleaning was done, the engine block was thoroughly rinsed with tap water from the hose. I then air dried it with a hand held blower.
Followed by rinsing with several cans of brake cleaner. All surfaces, all holes, and all orifices got sprayed.
The results speak for themselves...
More later...
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