Adding a subwoofer & Stereo

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I've never heard of Mosconi before. I checked them out--pretty expensive amps. Is it worth it.
I just got them a couple of months ago. They are Italian made like Hertz, so they are supposed to be good.
I have a JL Audio HD 600X4 that I'm going to sell if anyone is interested.
 
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Well amp supposed to be delivered today, but it's still sitting in Salt Lake so i don't see that happening.
Thinking of giving a couple of these a try.
 
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Today is tinker with Cracker day and tomorrow.
I removed the center console and Bose amp/sub in preparation to install the Pioneer amp.
Little disappointed though as i only found 22 cents and some kinda noodles along with plenty of pine needles. Cleaned it up some and called it good enough.

Now i need to figure out the speaker wires i will need to tie into for the amp.

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Here is what i found seems to be working for wiring color pair's.
The top 8 i have marked i believe are the output to the speakers.
The bottom block, i believe are input to the old amp from the old radio.

wiring.jpg
 
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Got the amp installed. Never as easy as you think it gonna be.
Front speakers wiring was no problem. Rear speakers however were.
The wires at the plug for the rear speakers would not power the speakers when testing with a 9V battery. Found them under the dash and still nothing.
I did not have time to trace em out any further as i needed to get it done today. Need Cracker tomorrow and was running out of time today.
Finally ended up just running new wires to each rear speaker.
Before i shoved it all back together, i tested it and everything working as it should. Now that it is all stuffed back in the SWC stopped working and i did test that before buttoning it up.
At least running new wires to the rear saved me from taking the back apart to unhook the D pillar speakers so i guess kind of a bright side.
I did not have time for wire management either so that's all a mess.
Ill take it apart next week. Clean it all up and post a few pics of how i did everything.

So.. Now i have it in i have the amp gains turned all the way down to 0.2v and the output on the radio turned down almost to 0. Plus both front and rear filters are set to band pass as i think i should be able to adjust that with the stereo? Volume sound about right for what a person would expect.
Sounds like crap though and now that all 4 speakers are working it is going to take weeks to get it sounding good again. Im sure when i get new rear speakers ill need to do it all over then also.
Anyway, it's all in and mostly working.
 

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Got the amp installed. Never as easy as you think it gonna be.
Front speakers wiring was no problem. Rear speakers however were.
The wires at the plug for the rear speakers would not power the speakers when testing with a 9V battery. Found them under the dash and still nothing.
I did not have time to trace em out any further as i needed to get it done today. Need Cracker tomorrow and was running out of time today.
Finally ended up just running new wires to each rear speaker.
Before i shoved it all back together, i tested it and everything working as it should. Now that it is all stuffed back in the SWC stopped working and i did test that before buttoning it up.
At least running new wires to the rear saved me from taking the back apart to unhook the D pillar speakers so i guess kind of a bright side.
I did not have time for wire management either so that's all a mess.
Ill take it apart next week. Clean it all up and post a few pics of how i did everything.

So.. Now i have it in i have the amp gains turned all the way down to 0.2v and the output on the radio turned down almost to 0. Plus both front and rear filters are set to band pass as i think i should be able to adjust that with the stereo? Volume sound about right for what a person would expect.
Sounds like crap though and now that all 4 speakers are working it is going to take weeks to get it sounding good again. Im sure when i get new rear speakers ill need to do it all over then also.
Anyway, it's all in and mostly working.

The rear speakers are routed through the audio control on the back of the center console so that you can turn the rear speakers off and listen to the overhead entertainment through the wireless headphones. I'm not 100% sure on the routing but would imagine you could have found the correct wires at the rear audio control... not that it really matters at this point since you already ran new wires.
 

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ya if you have the rse panel disconnected the rear speakers will not work
also how did you get the center console out without removing the seats?
 
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The rear speakers are routed through the audio control on the back of the center console so that you can turn the rear speakers off and listen to the overhead entertainment through the wireless headphones. I'm not 100% sure on the routing but would imagine you could have found the correct wires at the rear audio control... not that it really matters at this point since you already ran new wires.
To late now. But good to know. And yes, it was unhooked.
 
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ya if you have the rse panel disconnected the rear speakers will not work
also how did you get the center console out without removing the seats?
Something very similar to this. Seats all the way back get the two front screws. Seats all the way forward get the back 2 screws.
Aircraft tools for the win!!

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kbuskill

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Something very similar to this. Seats all the way back get the two front screws. Seats all the way forward get the back 2 screws.
Aircraft tools for the win!!

View attachment 466700

These are super handy, I use this one at work all the time with a pretty stout 1/4" drive impact...

1000013280.jpg
 
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I went and checked the RSE plug. Sure enough, the wire colors match the wires at the rear doors. The lt rear colors are Yellow/Brown. rt rear are lt blue and dark blue.
I knew there had to be something going on when the colors were not matching up at the doors.
When i have the console out next week i need to put that amp rse harness back in so the rear heated seats will work. Doubt anyone will be back there but ya never know.
 
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Been playing with settings and for me the tweeters in the A pillar are too far forward for my liking. Currently the tweeters are stock Bose so probably need replaced anyway.
So now im looking for a set of component speakers. I don't want the tweeters right in my face as it sounds now. I think if i place the tweeters someplace above the front door 6.5 speakers it would sound a lot better.

These would probably work for me and what i want.
 

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Been playing with settings and for me the tweeters in the A pillar are too far forward for my liking. Currently the tweeters are stock Bose so probably need replaced anyway.
So now im looking for a set of component speakers. I don't want the tweeters right in my face as it sounds now. I think if i place the tweeters someplace above the front door 6.5 speakers it would sound a lot better.

These would probably work for me and what i want.
I don't think that you could go wrong with those speakers.

You may also want to check out Focal speakers. IMO, they are among the best in the marketplace. I have a set in my other vehicle that are close to 15 years old, and they sound the same as when I purchased them, and I drive them hard.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_091ICU165/Focal-ICU-165.html?tp=78072 These specific ones are component speakers, so you won't have to run wires and install separate tweeters.
 

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Been playing with settings and for me the tweeters in the A pillar are too far forward for my liking. Currently the tweeters are stock Bose so probably need replaced anyway.
So now im looking for a set of component speakers. I don't want the tweeters right in my face as it sounds now. I think if i place the tweeters someplace above the front door 6.5 speakers it would sound a lot better.

These would probably work for me and what i want.
lol, and this is how it goes from just "replacing the head unit" to a whole system upgrade.
 
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Coaxial speakers are not going to work for me.
I'm already in this deep so im going to tri-amp. Never done that type of system so what the heck, what's a couple more hundred bucks now.
My stereo has the ability to separate the system and filters into tweeter 2 ch, midrange 4 ch, bass 2 ch.
The only parts i will need are a new set of rear door speakers, set of tweeters and a small 2ch amp for the tweeters. Sounds great but more likely a pita. Anyway, what's the fun in not over complicating things.

I have an email out to Atoto to make sure i will still have full control over LT/RT/FR/RR. I'm sure i will but i want to be positive before i order anything.
 
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Maybe im tired but not totally understanding Atoto's reply. Here is what they said.


Hello! Regarding your inquiry about whether the “(Tri-Amp) connection scheme can achieve front-rear and left-right channel balance adjustment” and the X10's sound control capabilities, I would like to explain the following based on the characteristics of the equipment:



### 1. About Your (Tri-Amp) Scheme and Channel Balance Adjustment

The scheme you planned, “subwoofer connected to a 2-channel amplifier, center/midrange connected to a 4-channel amplifier (responsible for front, rear, left, and right), treble connected to a 2-channel amplifier,” **can achieve basic balance adjustment of front-rear (fade front to rear) and left-right (side to side balance)**, but please pay attention to the following details to ensure adjustment effectiveness:



1. If the center/midrange's 4-channel amplifier is connected via the X10’s RCA interface (FL/FR/RL/RR channels), the built-in "front-rear/left-right balance adjustment" feature of the X10 system can directly apply to this amplifier, allowing free control of the midrange volume ratio for front-rear and left-right;



2. The 2-channel amplifier for treble and the subwoofer, if similarly connected to the corresponding channel of the X10 (e.g., treble connected to FL/FR for treble signals, subwoofer connected to a dedicated bass channel), when adjusting the X10's "front-rear/left-right balance," the channel ratio for treble and bass will also change simultaneously, without the need for additional separate adjustments;



3. It is necessary to avoid the situation where “the same channel connects both RCA (low level) and speaker wires (high level)” (for example, if the FL channel connects both the RCA from the midrange amplifier and the speaker wires from another amplifier), otherwise, the two connection methods will share the same adjustment channel, potentially causing conflicts in volume or balance control.



### 2. X10's Core Capabilities in Sound Control

1. **Channel Balance and Crossover Control**: The X10 supports “front-rear/left-right channel balance adjustment,” and this adjustment is effective for all external amplifiers connected via RCA or speaker wires (high level); it also supports three-way crossover mode (manual switching required, currently if it is in two-way mode, the midrange settings for FL/FR will be ineffective; after switching, independent parameters for treble, midrange, and bass can be adjusted);



2. **Amplifier and Heat Optimization**: If you adopt the method of “external amplifier connected to a three-way system (treble/midrange/bass), with the X10’s built-in amplifier unloaded without connecting any speakers,” it can not only achieve more precise control of the three-way effect (the built-in amplifier outputs full-range signals, and the three-way cannot be achieved without a crossover), but also reduce the heat generated by the X10 unit;

So i sent this reply:


I do not plan on using the speaker level stereo outputs.
I have attached a picture showing what i plan to do. Will this work and give me Fade/Left/Right?
What do you mean when mentioning heat if i hook it up this way?
Manual switching. I don't understand. Do you mean i have to switch the stereo to TRI-AMP mode?
Is this the best way to use the TRI-AMP feature?

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