Adding a subwoofer & Stereo

[SpareParts]

Drove around a little bit and it has way to much treble and bass. Very little mid range

 

[SpareParts]

Im not audio expert at all so trying to read up and learn.
ATM i think i need to lower,
Sub 27-500
Tweets: 70-20
and bring up the midrange
up in the 150-200 Range
Not really sure but maybe a place to start.

To bad no one knows the frequency out puts for all the channel's of the Bose Y91 amp

 

[homesick]

There are charts and graphs telling you what's most affected by the various frequencies in the 20-20,000 Hz range of human hearing. For example, I have 2.5 KHZ [2500 Hz] notched down 14.5 dB, because I have a sensitivity to metallic glare from male vocals [I'm looking at you, Joe Walsh].

joe

 

[crownvic31]

So, now I am considering getting a 4ch amp to run my new door speakers. How can I keep the factory sub working?

 

[SpareParts]

Buy a monobloc amp for the sub.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Honestly, I always liked the old Mono radio setups. Ya know, 1 speaker center dash.
I wonder if running in mono with multiple speakers would be as good as a single speaker...
But I tell ya, mono just sounds cleaner. Less headache for me.

Lately my dash has been making lots of creaky sounds... And my rear bumper cover seems to flap on the bumper causing noise..

That's when you turn the radio volume up. No more squeaking and creaking.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

A lot of my '60s music sounds as good, and sometimes better, in mono. I also like that studio ambiance better than the current practice of recording each instrument in a sterile, isolated, environment before layering the tracks together.

If you run that experiment, please let us know results.

joe

Until the late 60's a lot of the records were mono.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

There are charts and graphs telling you what's most affected by the various frequencies in the 20-20,000 Hz range of human hearing. For example, I have 2.5 KHZ [2500 Hz] notched down 14.5 dB, because I have a sensitivity to metallic glare from male vocals [I'm looking at you, Joe Walsh].

joe

The reality is that 90% of all audible sound produced in music occurs in the midrange frequencies. As such, speakers with a strong midrange frequency profile work best for me.

 

[kbuskill]

So, now I am considering getting a 4ch amp to run my new door speakers. How can I keep the factory sub working?

Buy a 5 channel amp. That way you have a 5th channel dedicated to the Sub output from the headunit.

Something like this would work...

Amazon.com: STINGER Audio MT-1000.5 1200 Watt RMS 5-Channel Car Audio Amplifier, Class D, Hexfet Mosfet, Crossover High-Pass/Low-Pass Filter, Subsonic Filter, Remote Subwoofer Bass Knob, Bass Boost Q : Electronics

Buy STINGER Audio MT-1000.5 1200 Watt RMS 5-Channel Car Audio Amplifier, Class D, Hexfet Mosfet, Crossover High-Pass/Low-Pass Filter, Subsonic Filter, Remote Subwoofer Bass Knob, Bass Boost Q: Multichannel Amplifiers - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

a.co

Also, if you go with an aftermarket amp, you may as well swap out the speakers for something that will match the Ohm rating of the new amp.

Since most aftermarket speakers are 4 ohm, assuming you swap the rear door speakers and the D-pillar speakers with 4 ohm speakers, that would be a 2 ohm load on the amp, so you would want to make sure you get an amp that is stable down to 2 ohms.

The bose subwoofer in the console is a dual voice coil speaker. You could run the voice coils in parallel, like the factory did, or in series to change the ohms the amp sees. I can't remember the ohm rating per VC on the Bose sub at the moment but I have measured it in the past.

The other option would be to swap the Bose sub for an aftermarket and keep the Bose box OR there are a couple companies that sell aftermarket sub boxes that fit under the console.

 

[crownvic31]

excellent info.

Ive seen several slim sub boxes that can probably fit in the same location as the stock. Anyone know the measurements for the factory sub box?

Also, how much room do we have where the factory amp is as I would like to remove that one and add the aftermarket amp there.

 

[SpareParts]

Search on this forum. Someone posted the dimensions of the sub box.
I can't remember what they are.

 

[SpareParts]

Been a couple of days now and here are a few things i like/dislike
Love all the adjustability! WAY more settings thin i can use with the Bose Y91/UQA amp. That's ok though as ill be upgrading amp's speakers in the future.
I did not think it was a big deal, but no fader suc**. The sound is too far forward for my liking. The tweeters and center channel are too loud slightly. Maybe i need to play with the settings more? The Bose amp can not take advantage of everything the stereo can do so probably a waste of time.
The over all sound is a LOT better though. Seems to have a lot more fullness or depth, im not sure how to describe it, it's just better.
SWC Works perfect once the stereo is set.
The PAC interface works perfect and does what it is advertised to do. Makes everything pretty much plug and play once all the stereo wires are soldered to it.
I think 99% of the folks putting in an aftermarket stereo will want the Maestro RR interface if for nothing else the fade function. I will be getting a Maestro RR in the near future.
I know it sounds wrong, but the ATOTO stereo is a decent quality Chinese unit. I think this one is my 4th and never had a problem with any of them, 3 S8's and now the new X10.
Anyway, All i got for now.

 

[homesick]

If you're anything like me, you're gonna find yourself pulling over to make tweaks for months.

I've bought fancier gear than I thought I needed, for home and car both, for 50 years, so I'd have room to grow into. It took 3 receivers in a row, trying to be frugal, to learn that lesson.

joe

 

[kbuskill]

Been a couple of days now and here are a few things i like/dislike
Love all the adjustability! WAY more settings thin i can use with the Bose Y91/UQA amp. That's ok though as ill be upgrading amp's speakers in the future.
I did not think it was a big deal, but no fader suc**. The sound is too far forward for my liking. The tweeters and center channel are too loud slightly. Maybe i need to play with the settings more? The Bose amp can not take advantage of everything the stereo can do so probably a waste of time.
The over all sound is a LOT better though. Seems to have a lot more fullness or depth, im not sure how to describe it, it's just better.
SWC Works perfect once the stereo is set.
The PAC interface works perfect and does what it is advertised to do. Makes everything pretty much plug and play once all the stereo wires are soldered to it.
I think 99% of the folks putting in an aftermarket stereo will want the Maestro RR interface if for nothing else the fade function. I will be getting a Maestro RR in the near future.
I know it sounds wrong, but the ATOTO stereo is a decent quality Chinese unit. I think this one is my 4th and never had a problem with any of them, 3 S8's and now the new X10.
Anyway, All i got for now.

It is strange to me that you need a PAC unit or the like to keep the SWCs and such.

I recently replaced my Kenwood with a Phoenix Automotive Android headunit and it is plug and play without any other modules required, and it has fade control. Although I do have the "dumb" Bose amp without the center point speaker in the dash.

I still have the Maestro RR and all associated harnesses, if you are interested it is posted in the classified section.

 

[Tonyv__]

Been a couple of days now and here are a few things i like/dislike
Love all the adjustability! WAY more settings thin i can use with the Bose Y91/UQA amp. That's ok though as ill be upgrading amp's speakers in the future.
I did not think it was a big deal, but no fader suc**. The sound is too far forward for my liking. The tweeters and center channel are too loud slightly. Maybe i need to play with the settings more? The Bose amp can not take advantage of everything the stereo can do so probably a waste of time.
The over all sound is a LOT better though. Seems to have a lot more fullness or depth, im not sure how to describe it, it's just better.
SWC Works perfect once the stereo is set.
The PAC interface works perfect and does what it is advertised to do. Makes everything pretty much plug and play once all the stereo wires are soldered to it.
I think 99% of the folks putting in an aftermarket stereo will want the Maestro RR interface if for nothing else the fade function. I will be getting a Maestro RR in the near future.
I know it sounds wrong, but the ATOTO stereo is a decent quality Chinese unit. I think this one is my 4th and never had a problem with any of them, 3 S8's and now the new X10.
Anyway, All i got for now.

have you use it for phone calls yet?

Just noticed on their site, this model mentions a “dual noise canceling microphone” idk what that means but it sounds fancy

I’ve never had an aftermarket radio with a good microphone.

 

[kbuskill]

have you use it for phone calls yet?

Just noticed on their site, this model mentions a “dual noise canceling microphone” idk what that means but it sounds fancy

I’ve never had an aftermarket radio with a good microphone.

This is what I installed recently with the new HU and I am very pleased with the results...

Amazon.com: OM SYSTEM Olympus ME-52W Noise Canceling Microphone : Electronics

Buy OM SYSTEM Olympus ME-52W Noise Canceling Microphone: Microphones - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

a.co

 

[Tonyv__]

This is what I installed recently with the new HU and I am very pleased with the results...

Amazon.com: OM SYSTEM Olympus ME-52W Noise Canceling Microphone : Electronics

Buy OM SYSTEM Olympus ME-52W Noise Canceling Microphone: Microphones - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

a.co

Thanks for the recommendation. I never looked into anything like that. I’ve had headunits in the past that came with a corded microphone and no matter where I placed it, i apparently sounded really bad. My current head unit has a mic built right into the face, but again no good.

 

[SpareParts]

have you use it for phone calls yet?

Just noticed on their site, this model mentions a “dual noise canceling microphone” idk what that means but it sounds fancy

I’ve never had an aftermarket radio with a good microphone.

Actually no. I have never tried to call or receive a call from anyone when driving in any vehicle i have had.

 

[SpareParts]

It is strange to me that you need a PAC unit or the like to keep the SWCs and such.

I recently replaced my Kenwood with a Phoenix Automotive Android headunit and it is plug and play without any other modules required, and it has fade control. Although I do have the "dumb" Bose amp without the center point speaker in the dash.

I still have the Maestro RR and all associated harnesses, if you are interested it is posted in the classified section.

I believe the Phoenix stereo is designed for the 07-13 Yukon's/Escalades and the details were taken into consideration when they designed it.
My Atoto is a universal unit that fits in about everything, so GM Bose was probably not even thought about.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Been a couple of days now and here are a few things i like/dislike
Love all the adjustability! WAY more settings thin i can use with the Bose Y91/UQA amp. That's ok though as ill be upgrading amp's speakers in the future.
I did not think it was a big deal, but no fader suc**. The sound is too far forward for my liking. The tweeters and center channel are too loud slightly. Maybe i need to play with the settings more? The Bose amp can not take advantage of everything the stereo can do so probably a waste of time.
The over all sound is a LOT better though. Seems to have a lot more fullness or depth, im not sure how to describe it, it's just better.
SWC Works perfect once the stereo is set.
The PAC interface works perfect and does what it is advertised to do. Makes everything pretty much plug and play once all the stereo wires are soldered to it.
I think 99% of the folks putting in an aftermarket stereo will want the Maestro RR interface if for nothing else the fade function. I will be getting a Maestro RR in the near future.
I know it sounds wrong, but the ATOTO stereo is a decent quality Chinese unit. I think this one is my 4th and never had a problem with any of them, 3 S8's and now the new X10.
Anyway, All i got for now.

To be honest, I'd be stunned if your head unit does not have a fader control. Perhaps, you have just not found where it is located yet?

Take a look at these instructions, and see if you can find the fader using them.

The ATOTO X10 offers a highly adjustable set of audio controls, including the ability to fine-tune sound distribution using the fader control.
Here's how to access the fader control:

Open the settings menu: Locate and tap the "Settings" or gear icon on your ATOTO X10's main interface.

Navigate to audio settings: Within the settings menu, look for an option related to "Audio", "Sound", or "Equalizer".

Locate the fader control: Within the audio or equalizer settings, you should find a control specifically labeled "Fader" or "Balance/Fader".

The fader control will likely be represented by a visual slider or a diagram allowing you to drag a point to adjust the sound between the front and rear speakers.

Adjust the fader to send more sound to the front or back speakers, according to your preference.

==================

For the individual relative speaker volumes, you can adjust the preamp setting for each speaker to get the overall balance that you want as a baseline. You can adjust the relative frequency ranges using the equalizer controls.