6.2 swap thread
- Thread starter ls1frc
- Start date
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Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Can never have too much info.
Damn that’s pretty slick! Wonder if they have a similar one for the NBS..
Got the flex fuel in. Ran into two issues. Of course the easy stuff is always the shit that gives me problems.
1) I stupidly broke the molex connector clip inside the ECM connector. The connector hole was blocked, so I stuck a pick inside of it to open the hole. Of course the clip inside broke. I solved it by super gluing the molex connector in place just enough so it could be inserted correctly into the ECM.
2) Out of the box, the flex fuel line that came with the kit leaked. The worst part about this is you can't easily remove it once it's in, a regular fuel disconnect tool doesn't work because the sensor takes up that space you need to slide the tool on. I ended up taking the flare fittings completely off and tightened the shit out of them, and that seems to have solved the problem. Still didn't like that it leaked right away though.
Went to the new E85 station 20 mins away and filled up half a tank. It correctly read the fuel. I havent played with any spark yet, but I am happy my ghetto super glue fix worked!
1) I stupidly broke the molex connector clip inside the ECM connector. The connector hole was blocked, so I stuck a pick inside of it to open the hole. Of course the clip inside broke. I solved it by super gluing the molex connector in place just enough so it could be inserted correctly into the ECM.
2) Out of the box, the flex fuel line that came with the kit leaked. The worst part about this is you can't easily remove it once it's in, a regular fuel disconnect tool doesn't work because the sensor takes up that space you need to slide the tool on. I ended up taking the flare fittings completely off and tightened the shit out of them, and that seems to have solved the problem. Still didn't like that it leaked right away though.
Went to the new E85 station 20 mins away and filled up half a tank. It correctly read the fuel. I havent played with any spark yet, but I am happy my ghetto super glue fix worked!
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
That's pretty cool!
I have HP tuners as well, hard to justify that cost on top of the HP Tuners...
Would be nice if it didn't need to be stuck into the OBD2 port in order to work though...
Mishimoto is sending me out a brand new replacement, do not even have to send back the old one. I am thinking with a warranty like this, their business model is to make really cheap stuff and just jack the price up to cover issues.
iamdub
Full Access Member
Pretty common among many brands.
Exactly. Oem replacement is 450 bucks shipped.
My thought process was well, the Mishimoto is only 100 more and its better!
Didnt even last 10k. Im reading its a design flaw in all of these aluminum tank radiators. They crack at the core to tank weld over time. Thats why oem uses plastic, they can flex.
My thought process was well, the Mishimoto is only 100 more and its better!
Didnt even last 10k. Im reading its a design flaw in all of these aluminum tank radiators. They crack at the core to tank weld over time. Thats why oem uses plastic, they can flex.
iamdub
Full Access Member
The rigidity thing is why I've always shied away from them. There's just too many points of potential failure- every weld is dependent upon a human and their skill level. The welds may look beautiful on the surface, but if you were to X-ray the metal, I'm sure you'd find less-than-optimal joining. When full of coolant and with the fans hanging off of them, that's a lot of weight being shocked and jarred around constantly for thousands of miles. All those forces are acting on welded thin metal that cracks before it bends. I think if you were to find the sweet spot of balancing loose-and-absorbent mounting with rigid mounting, you'd get a lot more life out of it. Maybe someone could make hydraulic radiator mounts.
You get twice the life for half the price with OEM. Well, 20x the life compared to what happened with your first Mishimoto! That's gotta be a defect more than mounting, though. The engine doesn't need to run cooler and the stock stuff is perfectly capable of keeping it running at it's designed temperature. For the modded engines making more power, there are OEM rads with higher heat and horsepower capacities.
Mine has the trans cooler, so OEM happens to be nearly $500.
Not sure what I am going to do yet. Do I wanna risk trying it one more time? Or try to sell and buy OEM.
While I have the coolant out, is lowering the thermostat worthwhile? I don't want 160, but running around at 212 all the time seems to be a little too hot. I'd rather see 195-200 so I can keep my timing up.
Not sure what I am going to do yet. Do I wanna risk trying it one more time? Or try to sell and buy OEM.
While I have the coolant out, is lowering the thermostat worthwhile? I don't want 160, but running around at 212 all the time seems to be a little too hot. I'd rather see 195-200 so I can keep my timing up.
iamdub
Full Access Member
Your OEM one is the 2.xx" thick by 19.5" tall core? Mine has the 1" thick by 17.5" tall core, with trans cooler but no engine oil cooler, and it's around $180. I got the thicker OEM one for around $200 just cuz it's a small upgrade that I think coincides with my mods and how I drive.
Know anyone that TIG welds? Maybe they can fix the original one. I forget where you said it was leaking at and my internet (or the forum) is running aggravatingly slow so I don't wanna scroll back. Maybe you can get the first one fixed really cheaply and sell both and have more than enough for an OEM rad? Or, run the new one but investigate the mounting situation.
Nothing to gain there. These engines were designed around a certain optimum operating temperature. This applies to virtually every modern car engine since before the idea of the colder t-stat came about. Besides, is that 212 you're referring to as displayed by the gauge? Mine always shows a hair over 210, but the actual coolant temp is around 196.
The engine was designed to run at its temperature to promote a more complete fuel burn. Running the engine cooler decreases the efficiency. Unburnt fuel leads to carbon buildup in the combustion chambers.
As you know, the point of a cooler engine is to allow more advanced timing to stave off detonation. This is fine on a race engine or one always ran hard. Not ideal for a daily driver. Get your safe power from advanced timing with higher octane fuel. Tightening the quench height helps, too.
I'm following this conv as I have the Mishi Radiator too
I haven't been really impressed with it's efficiency so far.. My trans temps
are higher than I would expect and when towing, my coolant temp and trans
temp are too high for my satisfaction..
Now saying that, I did do the Supercharger, 6L80E Upgrade, and Radiator all
at the same time. So I have no way of knowing what particular component is
giving me all the heat... I know my tune is off and maybe my lock up strategy is
fubar'd causing the trans heat which of course would relate to coolant temp.
I did do an ACDelco water pump, all the heater hoses, etc at the same time.
Even in cooler winter temps, my trans I feel, is about 20-30* too high under
light driving (no towing). But my water temps always stay around 190* ish unless
setting still a long time, then my fans are programmed to come on at 202*.. So
I never see higher than that. Buy my trans temp will be around 165-185 just
running light errands in 40-50* weather
I haven't been really impressed with it's efficiency so far.. My trans temps
are higher than I would expect and when towing, my coolant temp and trans
temp are too high for my satisfaction..
Now saying that, I did do the Supercharger, 6L80E Upgrade, and Radiator all
at the same time. So I have no way of knowing what particular component is
giving me all the heat... I know my tune is off and maybe my lock up strategy is
fubar'd causing the trans heat which of course would relate to coolant temp.
I did do an ACDelco water pump, all the heater hoses, etc at the same time.
Even in cooler winter temps, my trans I feel, is about 20-30* too high under
light driving (no towing). But my water temps always stay around 190* ish unless
setting still a long time, then my fans are programmed to come on at 202*.. So
I never see higher than that. Buy my trans temp will be around 165-185 just
running light errands in 40-50* weather
So to add, I'll take a look at the water tube on the top right of the mishi radiator
and see how "big" it is... maybe that's my issue ?????
|EDIT:
I mixed up 2 threads.. one was about the coolant line from radiator to surge
tank being too big (not restricted) like the OEM design...
So i don't know it this relates to my/our situation
Side note: I did call mishimoto last summer when the "new" radiator didn't
seem to cool well enough... They thought maybe I had a blocked core/passage
and sent me out a brand new one (mine was 2 weeks old)...
Cooling did NOT change.. So it wasn't a bad radiator.. Just something in my set up
that i'll have to figure out when the weather warms up this spring
and see how "big" it is... maybe that's my issue ?????
|EDIT:
I mixed up 2 threads.. one was about the coolant line from radiator to surge
tank being too big (not restricted) like the OEM design...
So i don't know it this relates to my/our situation
Side note: I did call mishimoto last summer when the "new" radiator didn't
seem to cool well enough... They thought maybe I had a blocked core/passage
and sent me out a brand new one (mine was 2 weeks old)...
Cooling did NOT change.. So it wasn't a bad radiator.. Just something in my set up
that i'll have to figure out when the weather warms up this spring
Last edited:
Mine has cooled great, no complaints there. My trans temp chills at 129 and never really goes above unless I drive it hard. I have zl1 stall, the mishimoto, and the deeper trans pan.
Stall converter tuning will have a giant affect on the trans temps. Also, I wouldn't look to the radiator to really cool the trans fluid. OEM uses an aux cooler, which typically people upgrade that if they are towing a lot. I would do that.
Mine has a trans and oil cooler. GM 20935856.
I think I'll just roll with it for now. Maybe my shot engine mounts had something to do with it, idk.
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