2012 Yukon XL Denali 6.2L Cam Swap Thread

[Geotrash]

Thanks to all who helped on the other thread that started with choosing valve springs and finished with me deciding to do a whole cam swap. I'll use this thread to document the process for others to reference, share what I learn, and gather feedback.

For starters, here is the parts list (feedback welcome):

• Cam: Vinci Performance M/T 578/587/213/222/115+3A - should provide a good bump to low-end torque and HP for towing, durability, reliability, and a more noticeable idle. It's a 3-bolt cam so I'll be deleting the VVT and also the DoD system. $400.
• Lifters: Vinci Performance, $170
• Springs: Vinci Performance, dual, includes: retainers, hardened locks, hardened locators, valve seals., $250
• Pushrods: Vinci Performance, moly 080” wall, seamless, one piece, 7.400”, $130
• New flat valley pan and gasket, GM 12598832, $52
• New oil pump, Melling M365HV, $142
• New timing cover, cam sprocket with 4x reluctor, crank sprocket, chain and tensioner, crankshaft seal and bolt, Trick-Flow TFS-30678505, $210
• New cylinder head gaskets, Fel-Pro FEL-26192PT, $86
• New cylinder head bolts, ARP ARP-134-3610, $110
• New intake manifold gasket set, Fel-pro MS97126, $42
• New valve cover gaskets and grommets, Fel-pro, already had on hand
• New oil pressure sensor, Delco 12673134, $38
• New knock sensors, Delco 2131576, $15
• New steel exhaust manifold gaskets, Mahle MS16124, $12
• New exhaust manifold bolts, Fel-pro ES75120
• New water pump with thermostat, Delco 251713, $169
• Rocker arm trunnion upgrade kit, Brian Tooley Racing BTRTK001, $115

I'll probably get started on the work the first weekend in November. My rationale for doing this was that we use this truck for long trips, with our kids, and I intend to keep it for another 10 years, so this is an investment in reliability, durability, and ultimately safety. Plus, a little more performance for towing our 4500 lb. camper and a sweet idle aren't bad things either. Total investment will be around $2500, including the tune, which is a fair price for the benefits.

 

[Dantheman1540]

Thanks to all who helped on the other thread that started with choosing valve springs and finished with me deciding to do a whole cam swap. I'll use this thread to document the process for others to reference, share what I learn, and gather feedback.

For starters, here is the parts list (feedback welcome):

• Cam: Vinci Performance M/T 578/587/213/222/115+3A - should provide a good bump to low-end torque and HP for towing, durability, reliability, and a more noticeable idle. It's a 3-bolt cam so I'll be deleting the VVT and also the DoD system. $400.
• Lifters: Vinci Performance, $170
• Springs: Vinci Performance, dual, includes: retainers, hardened locks, hardened locators, valve seals., $250
• Pushrods: Vinci Performance, moly 080” wall, seamless, one piece, 7.400”, $130
• New flat valley pan and gasket, GM 12598832, $52
• New oil pump, Melling M365HV, $142
• New timing cover, cam sprocket with 4x reluctor, crank sprocket, chain and tensioner, crankshaft seal and bolt, Trick-Flow TFS-30678505, $210
• New cylinder head gaskets, Fel-Pro FEL-26192PT, $86
• New cylinder head bolts, ARP ARP-134-3610, $110
• New intake manifold gasket set, Fel-pro MS97126, $42
• New valve cover gaskets and grommets, Fel-pro, already had on hand
• New oil pressure sensor, Delco 12673134, $38
• New knock sensors, Delco 2131576, $15
• New steel exhaust manifold gaskets, Mahle MS16124, $12
• New exhaust manifold bolts, Fel-pro ES75120
• New water pump with thermostat, Delco 251713, $169
• Leaving the factory rocker arms in place.

I'll probably get started on the work the first weekend in November.

Nice list! Those lifters are a great price I'll have to keep them in mind for lifters. That cam should be really nice for a DD with a touch of attitude!

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Thanks for starting this build thread. I'll be VERY interested in hearing about your installation experiences and results of this project.

 

[Geotrash]

Updated the parts list, added Brian Tooley Racing rocker arm trunnion upgrade kit.

 

[03_GMC]

Following for sure!! When did they add the DoD on the 6.2? My ‘09 doesn’t have it.


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[1BADI5]

Following for sure!! When did they add the DoD on the 6.2? My ‘09 doesn’t have it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

2010 with the L94

 

[1BADI5]

Question for the OP, who's going to tune it?

After the VVT delete you will get a PO010 code for crank/cam correlation. You will be able to start it and it will idle.......but will die as soon as you drop it in gear. I just went through this, this past week. I had to have my truck towed to my tuner, he worked his magic AKA made it move, so we could get it on the dyno. (NOTE: my AFM/DOD was already disabled in the tune.

I went with the TSP Stage 3 high lift 5.3 cam .216/.220 and .600/.600

Just some food for thought and hopefully help you out. IF you have any questions, feel free to shoot me a message or tag me in this thread

 

[JTRATX]

Thanks for posting, looking forward to write up.

 

[Geotrash]

Question for the OP, who's going to tune it?

After the VVT delete you will get a PO010 code for crank/cam correlation. You will be able to start it and it will idle.......but will die as soon as you drop it in gear. I just went through this, this past week. I had to have my truck towed to my tuner, he worked his magic AKA made it move, so we could get it on the dyno. (NOTE: my AFM/DOD was already disabled in the tune.

I went with the TSP Stage 3 high lift 5.3 cam .216/.220 and .600/.600

Just some food for thought and hopefully help you out. IF you have any questions, feel free to shoot me a message or tag me in this thread

Thanks for asking. I had a few options in mind, including a local tuner shop, black bear, and last but not least, buy an HP Tuner and teach myself to do it. But your post prompted me to get rolling on a decision, so thanks for that. I called the local tuner shop last week but they never got back to me, so I spoke with Black Bear via email today and they confirmed that they can do it for me in 3 steps:

• Step 1: I'll get the Autocal V3 now before I start the work, and log the data they'll need for a baseline with the stock tune.
• Step 2: Send them the files along with a list of the modifications I made, and they'll send me a tune to get the truck up and running safely after the work is complete.
• Step 3: Drive the truck with the mods to gather fresh data, and send it to them. They'll come back with additional tunes as needed to get it dialed in the rest of the way.

I like this approach because I can also use them to tune my 2007 (all stock) as well. And, as I learn more, and make more mods, I'll be able to keep working with Black Bear as I go.

Thoughts?

Dave

 

[1BADI5]

Only thought I have, is once you do the DOD/VVT delete and cam, it won't drive because of the PO010 code for the crank/cam corralation. So that in itself will present a issue with providing the tuner "data"