2012 Yukon XL Denali 6.2L Cam Swap Thread

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Thanks to all who helped on the other thread that started with choosing valve springs and finished with me deciding to do a whole cam swap. I'll use this thread to document the process for others to reference, share what I learn, and gather feedback.

For starters, here is the parts list (feedback welcome):
  • Cam: Vinci Performance M/T 578/587/213/222/115+3A - should provide a good bump to low-end torque and HP for towing, durability, reliability, and a more noticeable idle. It's a 3-bolt cam so I'll be deleting the VVT and also the DoD system. $400.
  • Lifters: Vinci Performance, $170
  • Springs: Vinci Performance, dual, includes: retainers, hardened locks, hardened locators, valve seals., $250
  • Pushrods: Vinci Performance, moly 080” wall, seamless, one piece, 7.400”, $130
  • New flat valley pan and gasket, GM 12598832, $52
  • New oil pump, Melling M365HV, $142
  • New timing cover, cam sprocket with 4x reluctor, crank sprocket, chain and tensioner, crankshaft seal and bolt, Trick-Flow TFS-30678505, $210
  • New cylinder head gaskets, Fel-Pro FEL-26192PT, $86
  • New cylinder head bolts, ARP ARP-134-3610, $110
  • New intake manifold gasket set, Fel-pro MS97126, $42
  • New valve cover gaskets and grommets, Fel-pro, already had on hand
  • New oil pressure sensor, Delco 12673134, $38
  • New knock sensors, Delco 2131576, $15
  • New steel exhaust manifold gaskets, Mahle MS16124, $12
  • New exhaust manifold bolts, Fel-pro ES75120
  • New water pump with thermostat, Delco 251713, $169
  • Rocker arm trunnion upgrade kit, Brian Tooley Racing BTRTK001, $115
I'll probably get started on the work the first weekend in November. My rationale for doing this was that we use this truck for long trips, with our kids, and I intend to keep it for another 10 years, so this is an investment in reliability, durability, and ultimately safety. Plus, a little more performance for towing our 4500 lb. camper and a sweet idle aren't bad things either. Total investment will be around $2500, including the tune, which is a fair price for the benefits.
 
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Dantheman1540

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Thanks to all who helped on the other thread that started with choosing valve springs and finished with me deciding to do a whole cam swap. I'll use this thread to document the process for others to reference, share what I learn, and gather feedback.

For starters, here is the parts list (feedback welcome):
  • Cam: Vinci Performance M/T 578/587/213/222/115+3A - should provide a good bump to low-end torque and HP for towing, durability, reliability, and a more noticeable idle. It's a 3-bolt cam so I'll be deleting the VVT and also the DoD system. $400.
  • Lifters: Vinci Performance, $170
  • Springs: Vinci Performance, dual, includes: retainers, hardened locks, hardened locators, valve seals., $250
  • Pushrods: Vinci Performance, moly 080” wall, seamless, one piece, 7.400”, $130
  • New flat valley pan and gasket, GM 12598832, $52
  • New oil pump, Melling M365HV, $142
  • New timing cover, cam sprocket with 4x reluctor, crank sprocket, chain and tensioner, crankshaft seal and bolt, Trick-Flow TFS-30678505, $210
  • New cylinder head gaskets, Fel-Pro FEL-26192PT, $86
  • New cylinder head bolts, ARP ARP-134-3610, $110
  • New intake manifold gasket set, Fel-pro MS97126, $42
  • New valve cover gaskets and grommets, Fel-pro, already had on hand
  • New oil pressure sensor, Delco 12673134, $38
  • New knock sensors, Delco 2131576, $15
  • New steel exhaust manifold gaskets, Mahle MS16124, $12
  • New exhaust manifold bolts, Fel-pro ES75120
  • New water pump with thermostat, Delco 251713, $169
  • Leaving the factory rocker arms in place.
I'll probably get started on the work the first weekend in November.

Nice list! Those lifters are a great price I'll have to keep them in mind for lifters. That cam should be really nice for a DD with a touch of attitude!
 

Joseph Garcia

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Thanks for starting this build thread. I'll be VERY interested in hearing about your installation experiences and results of this project.
 
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Updated the parts list, added Brian Tooley Racing rocker arm trunnion upgrade kit.
 

03_GMC

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Following for sure!! When did they add the DoD on the 6.2? My ‘09 doesn’t have it.


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Question for the OP, who's going to tune it?

After the VVT delete you will get a PO010 code for crank/cam correlation. You will be able to start it and it will idle.......but will die as soon as you drop it in gear. I just went through this, this past week. I had to have my truck towed to my tuner, he worked his magic AKA made it move, so we could get it on the dyno. (NOTE: my AFM/DOD was already disabled in the tune.

I went with the TSP Stage 3 high lift 5.3 cam .216/.220 and .600/.600

Just some food for thought and hopefully help you out. IF you have any questions, feel free to shoot me a message or tag me in this thread
 
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Geotrash

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Question for the OP, who's going to tune it?

After the VVT delete you will get a PO010 code for crank/cam correlation. You will be able to start it and it will idle.......but will die as soon as you drop it in gear. I just went through this, this past week. I had to have my truck towed to my tuner, he worked his magic AKA made it move, so we could get it on the dyno. (NOTE: my AFM/DOD was already disabled in the tune.

I went with the TSP Stage 3 high lift 5.3 cam .216/.220 and .600/.600

Just some food for thought and hopefully help you out. IF you have any questions, feel free to shoot me a message or tag me in this thread
Thanks for asking. I had a few options in mind, including a local tuner shop, black bear, and last but not least, buy an HP Tuner and teach myself to do it. But your post prompted me to get rolling on a decision, so thanks for that. I called the local tuner shop last week but they never got back to me, so I spoke with Black Bear via email today and they confirmed that they can do it for me in 3 steps:
  • Step 1: I'll get the Autocal V3 now before I start the work, and log the data they'll need for a baseline with the stock tune.
  • Step 2: Send them the files along with a list of the modifications I made, and they'll send me a tune to get the truck up and running safely after the work is complete.
  • Step 3: Drive the truck with the mods to gather fresh data, and send it to them. They'll come back with additional tunes as needed to get it dialed in the rest of the way.
I like this approach because I can also use them to tune my 2007 (all stock) as well. And, as I learn more, and make more mods, I'll be able to keep working with Black Bear as I go.

Thoughts?

Dave
 

1BADI5

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Only thought I have, is once you do the DOD/VVT delete and cam, it won't drive because of the PO010 code for the crank/cam corralation. So that in itself will present a issue with providing the tuner "data"
 

Snowbound

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I think you would be better served having it tuned locally or going the HPTUNERS route. I’m sure Blackbear will fine but dealing with that back and forth email stuff sucks. Trying to make sure you hit all the cells while data logging is hard when you can’t see it on a laptop like you can with HPTUNERS. But I will say, jumping in on tuning when you have no idea gets frustrating and is a huge learning curve. Start watching videos now and I can look in their tune repository to see if someone downloaded a tune that will at least get you going.


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Snowbound

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Doesn’t look like it. Just a stock tune.
da30517d8ad329c914b065622c428a0d.jpg



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Geotrash

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I think you would be better served having it tuned locally or going the HPTUNERS route. I’m sure Blackbear will fine but dealing with that back and forth email stuff sucks. Trying to make sure you hit all the cells while data logging is hard when you can’t see it on a laptop like you can with HPTUNERS. But I will say, jumping in on tuning when you have no idea gets frustrating and is a huge learning curve. Start watching videos now and I can look in their tune repository to see if someone downloaded a tune that will at least get you going.


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Thanks for the input and for looking in their database, Jim.

One of the things I'm not crazy about with the Black Bear Autocal system is that I'm paying almost $700 for the device, which includes all of the tunes I'll need for one vehicle. And then to use that device on another vehicle, I have to pay the BB tuning fee again (albeit it's less cost than the initial device purchase) because BB controls the licensing of the Autocal device for each vehicle, even though the device is technically capable of being used on up to 600 vehicles. I'm wondering if a more open platform where I can use it on as many vehicles as I like without any additional costs, as long as I can do the tuning work, might be a better choice for me long-term.

I'll reach out to Tunedbyfrost also.
 

randeez

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you still need to purchase additional credits to tune additional vehicles@ 49.99/ea. there is a threshold where you can tune as many of a certain type of vehicle after youve purchased enough credits but prob not realistic for diy user


with hptuners* i think efilive uses a similar setup
 
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Geotrash

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you still need to purchase additional credits to tune additional vehicles@ 49.99/ea. there is a threshold where you can tune as many of a certain type of vehicle after youve purchased enough credits but prob not realistic for diy user


with hptuners* i think efilive uses a similar setup
Thanks for that, Randy. I think with EFI Live, they set it up so that the tuning shop has to be the one to enable the tool for each VIN. And if I'm understanding it right, BB will only do it for you when they're paid the full tune fee, which is much more than $50. I will ask them to be sure.

In other news, it looks like Steve of tunedbyfrost.com is actually local to me here in Richmond. I reached out to him by email a few moments ago to see if I can either work with him locally or if he can recommend a good local tuning shop.

Update #2: It gets even better. In the auto response email I got from Steve, he says that he has a new shop called EFI Performance for doing performance and tuning work. Bonus! I'll reach out to them today and report back what I learn.
 

randeez

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yea something like that the autocals are all subs to a tuner. the autocal couldnt really do anything but log and load tunes. you could free it from one tuner but would need to link it to another to make any changes.

hptuners and efilive are pretty similar in layouts, table descrips and stuff like that. hptuners just seemed to supprort gas vehicles more. and you can pick up an older interface pretty cheap 2-300 with credits usually still on them.
 

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Looks amazing! Looking forward to this build and your feedback. I’m moving the same direction with Denali.
 
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Geotrash

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While I'm waiting for the new cam to arrive for the '12 Denali, I decided to use the Autocal v3 I bought from Black Bear to put a new tune on the '07. The tool is easy to use for the purpose. Sent the files into BB last week, hoping to receive the new tune sometime soon. Had hoped for a faster turnaround, but will be patient. The problem with an unlimited tune pricing model is that eventually you become a victim of your own success as a service provider. Lol.

I can see owning an HP Tuners unit in the future, and investing in the learning curve. Having to wait is not in my nature. Steve Frost got back to me last week also, so will use his local shop here in Richmond for the post cam swap tune on the '12.
 
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Looks amazing! Looking forward to this build and your feedback. I’m moving the same direction with Denali.
Sweet! I'll keep sharing my notes and will look forward to tracking your progress, too!
 
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Heard from Roger Vinci this morning that the cam and its associated parts are on the way. I have everything else I'll need as well, so will likely begin the work this weekend.

I also just got word from Justin at Black Bear that he's working on the tune for my other Denali today, so I'm looking forward to seeing how that performs with just a tune.

Update: Installed the BB tune on the '07 and it's a nice upgrade. Easy to install with the Autocal v3 also. I especially like the shift behavior better than stock. Shifts happen where they should for best drivability, and are noticeably more crisp but not harsh. And, getting on the throttle feels more powerful.
 
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