5.3 Tick/Knock?

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JPVortex

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Sounds good. Interested to see what you find. Take pics of where you tap into for the mechanical gauge, etc..... and not sure if your plan is to have a gauge permanently, if so, I'd definitely use this instead of the cheap plastic tubing that comes with the mechanical gauge

Will do! And right now I’m just doing a temporary test. I think I’m going to be tapping into where the sending unit usually goes.
 
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Yeah so about that oil pressure test, that’s not happening. Lost the adapter, it fell onto the bell housing then to god knows where. Should’ve tested it somewhere else. Just going to throw a sending unit on it and see what it reads on the cluster.
 
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Yeah so about that oil pressure test, that’s not happening. Lost the adapter, it fell onto the bell housing then to god knows where. Should’ve tested it somewhere else. Just going to throw a sending unit on it and see what it reads on the cluster.
Yeah so I ordered a new gauge set... Going to hook in near the oil pump behind the PS pump theres a plug. I put the new sending unit in and now it reads 20psi on cold idle. Either it lost more oil pressure or that new sender is DOA.
 

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Yeah so I ordered a new gauge set... Going to hook in near the oil pump behind the PS pump theres a plug. I put the new sending unit in and now it reads 20psi on cold idle. Either it lost more oil pressure or that new sender is DOA.
20PSI on cold idle is definitely not good (if true).
I would definitely suspect the gauge itself...

Again sending units can be bad as well. I always use OE parts so in this case an AC Delco or GM part. One below sounds like the correct one. I assumed you used this one.

 
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20PSI on cold idle is definitely not good (if true).
I would definitely suspect the gauge itself...

Again sending units can be bad as well. I always use OE parts so in this case an AC Delco or GM part. One below sounds like the correct one. I assumed you used this one.

I used a NAPA one. It seems to be doing its job. The idle pressure stays at around 20psi cold or warm. And it does rise when I rev it, but it only goes up to around 40psi no matter what RPM.

I've decided to throw a new pan gasket in and replace that pickup tube O-Ring. The pan gasket is leaking BAD anyways so it's a 2 birds with 1 stone scenario. I started working on it for around an hour today, got to the point where I just have 4 bolts holding the oil pan on. I have the drain plug out and am letting any oil drip out of it into a catch pan overnight to avoid much mess.

Front differential is lowered down, as far as I can get it before it hits the center link, so hopefully that's far enough to get the pan out.
 
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Well well well... This doesn't look very good to me. Pulled the pan off, and yeah the oring has seen better days, it's pretty flat.

BUT, this isn't looking good to me. on the bottom of the pan there is a ton of sludge, with possibly a bunch of metal shavings mixed in. Moving it around my fingers it feels... well sludgy(lol) but also pretty gritty too.

I DO have a magnetic drain plug, could this overtime cause a build up of the metal shavings from regular use wear?

The story that I feel is being told here isn't a good one. First a tick starts. Then half of my oil pressure is gone, and then this sludgy mess on the bottom of the pan...

Here's some pictures and a video.

Video:

1729548073948.png
1729548093814.png
 
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Well don’t really think I’ll go much further with this. Coworker of mine who’s a mechanic on the side offered me 3500 for it. I’ll throw it back together with a new pan gasket and pickup oring just so it can run.
 

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Well don’t really think I’ll go much further with this. Coworker of mine who’s a mechanic on the side offered me 3500 for it. I’ll throw it back together with a new pan gasket and pickup oring just so it can run.
It is a high mileage engine. It does appear to have had some poor oil change habits resulting in sludge. Sludge in oil pick-up tube filter can also drop the pressure, so hope you cleaned out the pick-up tube filter as well.
 
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It is a high mileage engine. It does appear to have had some poor oil change habits resulting in sludge. Sludge in oil pick-up tube filter can also drop the pressure, so hope you cleaned out the pick-up tube filter as well.
I think it’s more than sludge. I took my fingers and rubbed the sludge in between a rag until it soaked in. Then I did see a couple tiny miniscule metal shavings.

Also when looking up at the windage tray it does seem kind of sparkly, not sure if it was just the light hitting the metal of the windage tray or if that’s metal shavings.

However, the pickup screen was totally clean, not one piece of metal or sludge or anything in it.


And finally, I installed the oring today. I had a green one and replaced it with felpro number 72401. I kind of feel like it slid in too easily? Like it didn’t take much of any force at all for it to slide into the oil pump. I’m hoping it’s just because I had it soaked in oil, and not because it’s not going to seal.
 

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I think it’s more than sludge. I took my fingers and rubbed the sludge in between a rag until it soaked in. Then I did see a couple tiny miniscule metal shavings.

Also when looking up at the windage tray it does seem kind of sparkly, not sure if it was just the light hitting the metal of the windage tray or if that’s metal shavings.

However, the pickup screen was totally clean, not one piece of metal or sludge or anything in it.


And finally, I installed the oring today. I had a green one and replaced it with felpro number 72401. I kind of feel like it slid in too easily? Like it didn’t take much of any force at all for it to slide into the oil pump. I’m hoping it’s just because I had it soaked in oil, and not because it’s not going to seal.
What you are seeing is probably within realm of what is normal for a high mileage engine. By no means an example engine, but the bottom end is usually nasty and sludge does end up there, so do metal shavings.

If your oil pressure returns to where it needs to be, you are probably fine.

But I'd want more inputs from the folks here on what color O-ring is used. If i am not mistaken the original O-ring was either a Red or a Blue..... you seeing a green means someone has been in it already (??)
 
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What you are seeing is probably within realm of what is normal for a high mileage engine. By no means an example engine, but the bottom end is usually nasty and sludge does end up there, so do metal shavings.

If your oil pressure returns to where it needs to be, you are probably fine.

But I'd want more inputs from the folks here on what color O-ring is used. If i am not mistaken the original O-ring was either a Red or a Blue..... you seeing a green means someone has been in it already (??)
Ok well that’s good to hear, I don’t think the previous owner did many oil changes lol.

And maybe the oring isn’t quite green. Kind of a turquoise color. Definitely hasn’t been opened, pan still had factory rivets.
 

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Ok well that’s good to hear, I don’t think the previous owner did many oil changes lol.

And maybe the oring isn’t quite green. Kind of a turquoise color. Definitely hasn’t been opened, pan still had factory rivets.
Well... if the pan has been dropped for the first time ever, what you are seeing is well within norm for 200K miles!!! Unless you changed the oil every 3000 miles you will build non-zero sludge over time. Didn't the valve train look clean ??? In extreme cases you will even see sludge in the valve train. At any rate, you DO NOT have a spring chicken. Love that engine and transmission. Don't try any 0-60s. Use the vehicle to go from point A to point B.. you can probably still get another 150K miles out of it ;)

Just double check on the O-ring color/style. If the inner diameter and outer diameter seem comparable to the old one and in fact the OD is slightly larger since the old one is squished, I'd say you are safe.
 
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Well... if the pan has been dropped for the first time ever, what you are seeing is well within norm for 200K miles!!! You DO NOT have a spring chicken. Love that engine and transmission. Don't try any 0-60s. Use the vehicle to go from point A to point B.. you can probably still get another 150K miles out of it ;)

Just double check on the O-ring color/style. If the inner diameter and outer diameter seem comparable to the old one and in fact the OD is slightly larger since the old one is squished, I'd say you are safe.
Sounds good! Thank you very much! Definitely don't plan on any 0-60s haha!

And will do. I already have the pan reinstalled with the new oring in it, but to keep it safe, I have ordered a second one of the second oring(its only $2.50) lol and it'll be here tomorrow. From there I'll compare it to the old one which I still have and make sure they're similar.
 
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another update no bueno,

All back together fired it up.

Still only has 20psi of oil pressure cold at idle.

Went underneath to make sure of no oil pan leaks, and I could hear the knocking very loud there from above the oil pan. I think shes cooked guys....
 

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another update no bueno,

All back together fired it up.

Still only has 20psi of oil pressure cold at idle.

Went underneath to make sure of no oil pan leaks, and I could hear the knocking very loud there from above the oil pan. I think shes cooked guys....
Well before you conclude that, try a manual oil pressure gauge. If 20psi oil pressure is confirmed, you can say the bearings are about done.
 
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Well before you conclude that, try a manual oil pressure gauge. If 20psi oil pressure is confirmed, you can say the bearings are about done.
Yeah will do. Have a new gauge on order, will be here Sunday.

Where else is a good spot to put the mechanical gauge other than where the sending unit goes? I can’t fit that little thing back there with my giant fat fingers…. Lol.

I know there’s a Allen plug near the oil pump, but will measuring it there give me too high of a reading seeing as it’s right next to the pump?
 

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Yeah will do. Have a new gauge on order, will be here Sunday.

Where else is a good spot to put the mechanical gauge other than where the sending unit goes? I can’t fit that little thing back there with my giant fat fingers…. Lol.

I know there’s a Allen plug near the oil pump, but will measuring it there give me too high of a reading seeing as it’s right next to the pump?
You want to tap into where the oil pressure gauge is to compare vs gauge... will a kit like the one below help with better access ? It also comes with adapters.

 
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That probably won’t help. The kit that I have has a quick connect, like a smaller version of a air compressor hose.

The problem is taking the m16 adapter and getting it to the rear of the engine without being able to see, then threading it in.

The last adapter I had fell on top of the bell housing, tried for an hour to find it and no luck.
 

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That probably won’t help. The kit that I have has a quick connect, like a smaller version of a air compressor hose.

The problem is taking the m16 adapter and getting it to the rear of the engine without being able to see, then threading it in.

The last adapter I had fell on top of the bell housing, tried for an hour to find it and no luck.
Yeah I saw the working room there it is bad.

Check this video below. Looks like another location to tap...... maybe the same place you were referring to... it does track the gauge closely though, so if this tap location shows 20 PSI when cold, I'd say you need more drastic measures

 
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Yeah I saw the working room there it is bad.

Check this video below. Looks like another location to tap...... maybe the same place you were referring to... it does track the gauge closely though, so if this tap location shows 20 PSI when warm, I'd say you need more drastic measures

Yeah that’s the one I was talking about! Haha. Just got to find the correct Allen socket.

Glad to hear it tracks the gauge closely. Will definitely be testing this weekend! Will post results here.
 

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