And always remove the fill plug first. You don't want to have it drained, just to realize you can't fill it 'cause the fill plug is frozen.
2010 Burb Misfire
- Thread starter solli5pack
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"Old" and "vintage" together is somewhat redundant, but I get your point. Simpler vehicle for a simpler guy. I resemble that!
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solli5pack
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Got it. Any recommendations on what brand/type of gear oil to fill it up with?
Here’s what your manual says:
My 2013 AWD Denali calls for 75W-90 Synthetic, which I think would work for you as well
Any quality gear oil manufacturer should work. Just don’t get one with limited slip additive.
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solli5pack
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So having some trouble getting the harmonic balancer fully seated. Couldn't get it all the way on with the installer so I tried putting the ARP bolt on and cranking it with a breaker bar. No go. Now the ARP bolt doesn't want to come out. Think I should hit it with an impact?
I believe I've read the front is just an open diff. so fluid ain't a big deal with or without additives, cause I sware every gear lube brand at the auto parts store has something in it already. since if you have limited slip you need it, if you have an open it won't hurt anything.
it's the back that has the oddball locker g80 in it that doesn't like additives. I ended up having to stop by the dealer to find some oem spec for mine after it did some funky stuff about 5k miles after a fluid change with auto parts store stuff.
so the front you're good, just what every 75-90 to feel like putting in it. the rear is picky if you have the g80 option. which I believe pretty much everyone has.
it's the back that has the oddball locker g80 in it that doesn't like additives. I ended up having to stop by the dealer to find some oem spec for mine after it did some funky stuff about 5k miles after a fluid change with auto parts store stuff.
so the front you're good, just what every 75-90 to feel like putting in it. the rear is picky if you have the g80 option. which I believe pretty much everyone has.
to remove the bolt, it's probably fine. I zipped my original one off with impact. but I wouldn't try to seat it with it. something isn't right, mine wasn't hard to go on at all. I did use anti seize on the inner hub thou. didn't call for it, but I did anyways.
might see if you can remove it, check for any scarring, clean it up. lube it and try again. I believe the manual says to seat it fully by tq the old bolt to a spec. I don't remember what that is right now, but I wouldn't go byond that number to seat it.
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solli5pack
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I agree. I'm gonna remove it with an impact and try the installer again. My biggest fear of this entire job is stripping the crankshaft...
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solli5pack
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Got it seated with the old bolt. Tha ks for info!
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solli5pack
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So getting ready to drop the lifters in and wanted to ask a few questions. #1 is to clean the ports thoroughly. I'm going to use a rag sprayed with some brake kleen and wipe upwards best I can to prevent any dirt from falling down into the motor. They're already pretty clean. Then drop in lifters first then trays? From what I've read the trays will prevent me from putting them in incorrectly because the flat side lock into the trays. And got to make sure the roller is sitting on the cam properly. Also doesn't matter which way the oil hole is facing? Last I cant believe the debate everywhere I look over wether or not they should be soaked! I soaked mine so at this point it doesn't matter but some serious online fighting going on over this!! I was hoping to do this today but supposed to rain all day in N.J. so might have to wait.
iamdub
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I hope by "seat it", you don't mean you have it flush with the end of the crankshaft. I don't think that's even possible. The end of the crankshaft should be 2.4mm to 4.48mm recessed.
iamdub
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Snap the lifters into the trays and drop all four into the block at the same time. Hold 'em as square as possible. You might have to slowly and slightly wiggle the tray, but they should slide in.
Apparently, it doesn't matter. It might matter with the AFM lifters. I've always done 'em in the way that satisfies my OCD- the hole in each intake and exhaust lifter of each cylinder facing each other.
Of course you soak 'em! I think the debate is if you're gonna prime the engine, then it doesn't matter. I soak mine and use an old push rod to press the cup in the end to pump the air out. They're solid before I even drop 'em in. Then I prime the engine with a homemade rig that uses compressed air. I'm excessive sometimes. But I don't like ticking lifters.
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solli5pack
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Started it!!! Ran great so far. Updates to follow!
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solli5pack
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Well so far so good..Its running great! First off thanks to everyone's input and answers to my questions. I would never have been able to pull this off without it. Couple of quick observations. After a few highway merges I do not notice the loss of power from the mild cam. If anything it seems to have a little more pep. When I first started driving I was worried that the oil pressure was too high. At idle it was a 60 and with some aggressive driving it almost pegged past 80. It seems to be coming down a bit now. Also I'm a big fan of the ARP bolts. I used them on the heads, balancer and exhaust manifolds. With some of those tough to reach head bolts tourqe to yield would have been a pain with the engine in the truck Dealing with Lt1swap for the computer reprogramming was a breeze. He shipped it back day after he received it.. Ill post a part list with #'s in the next day or two and some more details of the project to hopefully help others in the future.
