What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Doubeleive

Wes
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I probably need to get my tune updated on my truck. If I get on it, it chirps the tires between 50-55mph -- unless I'm in 4wheel high.
my yukon is fine awd, but the silverado is 3.08 and unless I have it in auto I spin the tires at every stop sign and light, my old one is 3.73 and that would just result in the same and a burnout at every street turn lol unless I was paying attention..... I couldn't do 4.10 without being very mindful, I just touch the pedal and it chirp's with 3.73
I don't drive like granny ever.....
 

S33k3r

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my yukon is fine awd, but the silverado is 3.08 and unless I have it in auto I spin the tires at every stop sign and light, my old one is 3.73 and that would just result in the same and a burnout at every street turn lol unless I was paying attention..... I couldn't do 4.10 without being very mindful, I just touch the pedal and it chirp's with 3.73
I don't drive like granny ever....
The Sierra is 4.10, and the Suburban 1500 is 3.42; all the others are 3.73. I'm thinking about taking the escalade to 4.10. But if I get to go forced induction with it, I'm probably better off with the 3.73s.
 

SpareParts

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Did you just rebuild it, or did you toughen it up any?
No special parts. Just replaced what was worn mostly. I did put a case saver in it though.
Big difference when shifting between R and D. AWD TC must have been pretty loose although on the bench it does not feel that loose.
 

Foggy

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A few days ago I serviced my 2014 tow denali. Trans service with filter, reset adaptives.. Oil Change.
Rear Diff service. I did my front diff last month - it didn't look good - shiny stuff in fluid. I service my diffs & trans
once a year
2013 Denali new to me: Replace left mirror motor. All coolant & heater hoses. Upgraded to metal Tees at htr hoses
Thermostat (which is not opening til 203*, so I gotta do it again), Water Pump, Both Belts, Idler, Tensioner assembly,
rear glass lift supports, rear hatch lift supports. Put in my 3rd version on HPTuners to get trans & TC shift point right
where I want them. Still gotta do Oxygen Sensors, Rear Shocks, Little Crap... This is what most would have called
'perfect' the day I brought it home 2 weeks ago... but I'm OCD...
 

Doubeleive

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I have 4L-N-2H-4H
if you have 2h and 4.10 and are not able to spin the tires at will something is wrong..... there is a serious lack of power somewhere, the wifes 2016 is 2wd with 3.08 and I have to be somewhat careful not to spin the tires on that. that thing should be snappy as hell
 

SpareParts

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Could be, but don't think so.
I have never floored it from a dead stop though, just a lot of unneeded stress on parts for playing around.
I'll usually wait till about 20 mph then feed in the gas over a couple seconds till it is floored so it never down shifts to 1st under full power.
From 20 to 80 mph it seems plenty fast for me though for being stock.
 

Joseph Garcia

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The Sierra is 4.10, and the Suburban 1500 is 3.42; all the others are 3.73. I'm thinking about taking the escalade to 4.10. But if I get to go forced induction with it, I'm probably better off with the 3.73s.
There's nothing wrong with 4.10 gears and forced induction. It's actually quite a thrill.
 

Doubeleive

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Could be, but don't think so.
I have never floored it from a dead stop though, just a lot of unneeded stress on parts for playing around.
I'll usually wait till about 20 mph then feed in the gas over a couple seconds till it is floored so it never down shifts to 1st under full power.
From 20 to 80 mph it seems plenty fast for me though for being stock.
ya those 0-20 have caused me to break many things in the past, mostly on the 2wd 4l60 & g80's. AWD & auto systems split the power better so there is no heavy stress on one thing, the transfer case in these are fairly stout.
 

Joseph Garcia

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I left a parking lot in my truck, and while proceeding down a sloped road, I hit the brakes, and there was suddenly a metallic clang, clang, clang sound on the right side of the truck, in the same cadence as the wheel rotation. If I took my foot off the brake pedal, the clang sound almost disappeared. I limped home.

This morning, I took it to my shop and got the truck on the lift. It turns out that the top bolt on my front right brake caliper backed itself out and fell out. When I applied the brakes, the brake caliper then rotated into the inside of the wheel and rubbed it. The wear marks on the inside of the wheel were obvious, but not yet deep enough to do any damage.

We straightened the caliper out, put in a new bolt, and I was good to go.

My Mechanic said that this was not a common issue, but not unknown, either. He said that many mechanics take to easy path and just tighten the bolt head with the impact hammer, but do not put s second wrench on the underside to ensure that the bolt is truly tightened.
 

Joseph Garcia

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It's a rainy day here, so I decided to attack a major annoyance item inside my truck. ===>> The Insidious Dash Rattle

I had previously narrowed the source of the noise to be in the center dash speaker area or below. So, I took off the speaker grille, expecting to find the factory sub in the space, but it was gone. Instead, there was a GPS sensor that my audio shop had installed, when they upgraded my audio system.

Everything around and below the speaker area seemed to be reasonably intact, so I decided that it had to be the speaker grille - dash contact area itself. I took some black electrical tape and placed pieces on the dash surface directly below the speaker grill would be located, making sure that any potential contact areas between the speaker grille and the dash itself were insulated with the electrical tape. I also placed a piece of electrical tape over the mounting screw that my audio shop had added to attach the GPS sensor, as it looked like it was very close to contacting the speaker grille.

I put the speaker grille back in place, and the Insidious Dash Rattle was GONE!! I should have done this two or three years ago, instead of living annoyed with it.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT: I want to thank @Doubeleive for his sage advice to use a couple of small knife tips to wedge/lift the speaker grill out of the dash without damaging anything. It worked like a charm.
 

Doubeleive

Wes
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It's a rainy day here, so I decided to attack a major annoyance item inside my truck. ===>> The Insidious Dash Rattle

I had previously narrowed the source of the noise to be in the center dash speaker area or below. So, I took off the speaker grille, expecting to find the factory sub in the space, but it was gone. Instead, there was a GPS sensor that my audio shop had installed, when they upgraded my audio system.

Everything around and below the speaker area seemed to be reasonably intact, so I decided that it had to be the speaker grille - dash contact area itself. I took some black electrical tape and placed pieces on the dash surface directly below the speaker grill would be located, making sure that any potential contact areas between the speaker grille and the dash itself were insulated with the electrical tape. I also placed a piece of electrical tape over the mounting screw that my audio shop had added to attach the GPS sensor, as it looked like it was very close to contacting the speaker grille.

I put the speaker grille back in place, and the Insidious Dash Rattle was GONE!! I should have done this two or three years ago, instead of living annoyed with it.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT: I want to thank @Doubeleive for his sage advice to use a couple of small knife tips to wedge/lift the speaker grill out of the dash without damaging anything. It worked like a charm.
So they removed the speaker to put a gps sensor in? I put mine under the forward piece of dash panel that lifts up, there are slots under it that the gps sensor fit"s in perfectly. you just have to pull the pillar covers to access it.
that 10'th speaker works well with dsp turned on.
 

Halfblast

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installed my new headliner i had redone. whiskey brown micro suede
 

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