What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

Completed my quick jaunt to Florida to pick a new toy - was a mere 2970ish miles in 4 days to run down and return home! Tahoe ran great - was impressed by it's ability to get into the right gear (Shout out to @BlackBearPerf ) for the up and down climbs on the way south. Was a bigger chore pulling the car and trailer - especially though Connecticut and Massachusetts - had some really steep climbs up the mountains. Hats off to those of you pulling a travel trailer out west-probably should have choose using I95 instead for consistent elevation changes.

Sparksalot said:

I have 5 tires with sensors on both of mine. For the GMT900 it doesn't care which 4 are programmed. One of those could be the spare. If you have a flat it's going to just set a nag on the DIC.

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probably not a bad idea if you take a lot of long trips. be worth just tossing a cheap programmer in to update the spare.

I just tossed one of my old used tires on for now. might do that later before a long trip thou.

Fubar0715 said:

Completed my quick jaunt to Florida to pick a new toy - was a mere 2970ish miles in 4 days to run down and return home! Tahoe ran great - was impressed by it's ability to get into the right gear (Shout out to @BlackBearPerf ) for the up and down climbs on the way south. Was a bigger chore pulling the car and trailer - especially though Connecticut and Massachusetts - had some really steep climbs up the mountains. Hats off to those of you pulling a travel trailer out west-probably should have choose using I95 instead for consistent elevation changes. View attachment 423622View attachment 423623

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Good looking Karmann Ghia!
They were fun cars back in the day.

Doubeleive said:

Only 1 at the temp sensor on the left side of block

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Thanks Wes. I guess this is testing the dash gauge against the device you plug in...assuming the device is the correct one ?

mikez71 said:

May need a new coolant reservoir cap?

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I just put a Rock Auto T-stat in mine. 180. It runs exactly the same on the dash gauge as before....210.

blondie70 said:

Thanks Wes. I guess this is testing the dash gauge against the device you plug in...assuming the device is the correct one ?

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what your read from the obd port is what the ecm sees and uses for all its calculations. it's honestly only as correct as the sensor is.. they can vary some and go bad too. if you dive deep enough you can usually find a resistance to temp chart to test them. you could put them I a pot of boiling water with a good cooking thermometer and check the resistance to the chart. I've also seen vette guys do this for the t stat themselves. if I remember right in a thread dude bought like 5 or 6 160deg motorad band and tested them all, they were all over the map by as much as 20deg. he was able to pick the temp he wanted and ended up selling the rest on the boards as a verified temp stats.

I believe the oem stat had 187deg stamped on it. on my truck the dash always shows straight up 210 but scanner reports anything from 195 to over 215 sometimes. dash never moves. my actual Temps do probably move around more than most since it can set at long red lights with the engine off, fans at max for the ac and has 2 electric pumps moving water around while it's off. but point being the dash gauge is only really there to show to cold, normal or over heat. it's probably not going to move around much over 5 to 10 deg.

blondie70 said:

Thanks Wes. I guess this is testing the dash gauge against the device you plug in...assuming the device is the correct one ?

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well the dash gauge is all analog except for the transmission temp, so reading the temp from the obd is the most accurate reading. you can depend on the cluster to at least give you a heads up if something is going wrong.
the temp gauge should stay pretty stagnat unless you are towing or pushing it well beyond normal
I can run this thing at 135mph for miles and miles on flat land and the temp gauge won't budge, but pushing it 95mph up a big mountain grade in the summer will make it move.

Well, my driver seat foam and cover are really starting to show their age now. The bottom is getting ugly and I can see some of the foam...and also just uncomfortable now.
Suppose I need to start shopping for covers and foams.

RooTBeeRthe1st said:

Well, my driver seat foam and cover are really starting to show their age now. The bottom is getting ugly and I can see some of the foam...and also just uncomfortable now.
Suppose I need to start shopping for covers and foams.

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I know a guy that does antique car interiors, tops and trim.
He says that modern foam is rated by a number and that number is the years that it is expected to last.
He says modern foam is crap and is designed to be needed to be replaced in short order.
Good luck looking for new seat foam, it should be out there, somewhere but just be aware that replacement stuff may not last as long as the original stuff.

Could always go old school and use cotton batting and horse hair.

oem seat pads and covers are out there around $100-125 each