Desperate help/ only vehicle

[Don S]

Yes no oil to the lifters flows thru that screen. Just the vlom and the ports in the afm lifters that release the locks so they collapse to go into 4 cyl mode.


this one is a bit baffling. at first I was thinking with the old dead pressure sensor, afm wasn't turning on and then new sensor, afm would work again and the first time I did, bam a lifter gets stuck down. but afm never comes on at idle and not till it's up to temp. so that doesn't seem like it.

so I'm guessing timing chain just happened to break, or the starter did. fingers crossed it's a simple starter.

coils I don't think could be plugged in wrong, but maybe the injectors can if you tried really hard? shouldn't really cause that thou.

I was wrong, it’s cylinder 4 not 2 that has rocker not moving at all. No noise ever out of this motor, it’s been wonderful and I think the afm was deleted when I bought it at 130k and I’m at 330k now. Wonderful running truck til simply changed sending unit. The starter turns more over as fine as can be. That was my mistake as well, the humming noise I was hearing was the actual starter turning the motor over. I’m an old man and I was expecting a cranking noise but with no plugs in it I wasn’t hearing what expected. I worked in a shop back in the 80’s so I’m don’t know these new cars at all. Thanks so much for taking time to try to help,

 

[j91z28d1]

sounds like you're strapped for cash.. new afm lifters, only use oem, as the no name cheap ones have failed for a lot of people on the first drive. they aren't cheap, I believe a set is like 400$.

I would try the release method you saw. same link is back a few posts. if it works, usually with just a hammer. very extreme case to need a air hammer and while it's apart leave the new oil pressure sensor unplugged. that should keep afm from activating and sticking again.

at that point man, a full afm delete and the amount of work needed in your situation. it might be worth finding a cheap running vehicle of some sort and part out what you got. I believe you can be $2-3k into a good afm delete kit doing it all yourself correctly.

 

[Don S]

pull starter-bench test, easy to do....

Starter is perfectly fine. My goofiness. I was expecting a cranking sound and all I heard was loud humming which was the starter and it was turning the motor over just fine. All the plugs were out so starter didn’t sound normal,

 

[West 1]

With a tight budget releasing the lifter is his best bet. It is a very solid fix and you avoid all the labor of pulling the heads. I have done two, both worked out perfect and ran like new. No need to pull the heads, change the cam or buy all new lifters.

The only reason I stopped doing the repair this way was due to California cracking down on any modifications and fear these cars might fail a smog test. The repair is real and works with 20% of the work and much less money involved.

 

[Don S]

With a tight budget releasing the lifter is his best bet. It is a very solid fix and you avoid all the labor of pulling the heads. I have done two, both worked out perfect and ran like new. No need to pull the heads, change the cam or buy all new lifters.

The only reason I stopped doing the repair this way was due to California cracking down on any modifications and fear these cars might fail a smog test. The repair is real and works with 20% of the work and much less money involved.

This is sounding good. So won’t have to pull head or intake? I can do it externally just as it is? I need more education about this and how. I haven’t pulled pushrod out to look to see if it’s bent yet. Thank you sir!

 

[hagar]

I guess if you were looking for a chain of causation for why the lifter stuck, you could say that some shit got knocked loose while changing the dod screen, then it got into the number 4 lifter and stuck it.

You wouldn't think it would have siezed without seeing a dod request though, but anything is possible.

 

[j91z28d1]

This is sounding good. So won’t have to pull head or intake? I can do it externally just as it is? I need more education about this and how. I haven’t pulled pushrod out to look to see if it’s bent yet. Thank you sir!

you will have to pull the intake and the plate under it called the vlom but nothing major. both of those are much easier than heads and or cam.

the video about it is a few pages back I believe. let me see if I can find the post.

 

[j91z28d1]

the 2nd video in this post is the how too I believe

Post in thread 'Desperate help/ only vehicle' https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/desperate-help-only-vehicle.157613/post-2030095

 

[Don S]

No

I guess if you were looking for a chain of causation for why the lifter stuck, you could say that some shit got knocked loose while changing the dod screen, then it got into the number 4 lifter and stuck it.

You wouldn't think it would have siezed without seeing a dod request though, but anything is possible.

no, it seems from what I’m learning, it’s when I put the vehicle into drive that the AFM initiated and oil pressure dropped causing the lifter to get stuck somehow. If I would have just started it and the vehicle didn’t move, then it or ably wouldn’t have done that. Goofy stuff! Looks like I’m tearing it down and fixing it all somehow.

 

[2016Dom]

Did you tried to stat it after you heard the knock, I with any luck it was a odd coincidence, but if the third rocker is loose then don't try running it.

 

[mikez71]

AFM should not activate going into Drive..
Unless you drove upto 11mph and are in 3rd gear through 6th gear, and under 6% throttle..

 

[fredcook]

40+ years in the shops and I have never seen a timing chain break in a driveway or at start up, especially if was running just fine when shut off, and no previous noises.

Doesn't mean it cannot happen.

Chain, no. Tensioner, yes, maybe.

 

[Don S]

Did you tried to stat it after you heard the knock, I with any luck it was an odd coincidence, but if the third rocker is loose then don't try running it.

No didn’t dare try to crank it after I hear knock. I kind of instinctively knew it must of been a pushrod with it that loud and it is. Now I’m faced with not knowing for sure what I’m doing and having to possibly pull heads and install new lifters kit. I hope I can get it unstuck just be pulling intake and vlom covers, using a metal rod to tap on it and go back together. Be great if someone was standing there by the truck that’s done it all before but I feel confident. From what I’ve been told, I could start it but don’t try to drive it or I will initiate the AFM and cause same thing to happen again.

 

[Don S]

AFM should not activate going into Drive..
Unless you drove upto 11mph and are in 3rd gear through 6th gear, and under 6% throttle..

Thank you sir! I heard a repair shop on YouTube say I could start it but definitely not drive it.

 

[Don S]

Chain, no. Tensioner, yes, maybe.

No, it looks like because I started driving it, the AFM engaged and also because I had the new oil sending unit plugged in it signaled to system that AFM was good to go so it did. It dropped oil pressure as it should to engage and started ticking. Then I turned it off and attempted to restart but just heard the pushrod smack and didn’t try to crank any on it after I heard that. I have stuck lifer on 4 to free up and then can fire it up again but not drive it until I do a delete on the AFM.

 

[thefrey]

I could start it but don’t try to drive it or I will initiate the AFM and cause same thing to happen again.

Something that can get you by for a little bit (I think, someone else please confirm) is keeping the vehicle in m5 whenever you drive it. (After you get your lifter released). It won’t activate AFM and will get you down the road without having to spend $200 on a disabler right now.

I cut my gaskets on my VLOM to make it so AFM physically could not activate, even if for some reason it tried to with my disabler. This was secondary insurance, along with the Crazed Performance release kit that has a plug for the VLOM to block the oil passages

I know it’s hard not having somebody to look over your shoulder, but many of us are very active and will reply ASAP to any kind of help you need

 

[mikez71]

While truck is down, you might want to send ecm off to get afm disabled.
Cheaper and better than disabler.

AFM Delete

 

[Don S]

Something that can get you by for a little bit (I think, someone else please confirm) is keeping the vehicle in m5 whenever you drive it. (After you get your lifter released). It won’t activate AFM and will get you down the road without having to spend $200 on a disabler right now.

I cut my gaskets on my VLOM to make it so AFM physically could not activate, even if for some reason it tried to with my disabler. This was secondary insurance, along with the Crazed Performance release kit that has a plug for the VLOM to block the oil passages
View attachment 478760

I know it’s hard not having somebody to look over your shoulder, but many of us are very active and will reply ASAP to any kind of help you need

I’m very grateful to all the advice. I’m 61. I had a 350k home and that much financially. Now my mother has been buying food for me and my kids have if they can. Never dreamed I’d be here and I’m a good person. She just decided to move in to someone else after 37 years. I never raised my voice to her or ever fought with her. Anyway, on with life. Weeeeeeeee! I went to the dollar store and bought a plastic bowl for 50 cents and sat in the truck and cried about it. That’s breaking a good man, but on with this thing called life.
Ok enough of all that. I appreciate you throwing suggestions. I’m a mechanical person but I’ve never done such a thing. I’m going at this in the dark. I’m old school and clueless on late model.

 

[Fless]

Something that can get you by for a little bit (I think, someone else please confirm) is keeping the vehicle in m5 whenever you drive it. (After you get your lifter released). It won’t activate AFM and will get you down the road without having to spend $200 on a disabler right now.

I cut my gaskets on my VLOM to make it so AFM physically could not activate, even if for some reason it tried to with my disabler. This was secondary insurance, along with the Crazed Performance release kit that has a plug for the VLOM to block the oil passages
View attachment 478760

I know it’s hard not having somebody to look over your shoulder, but many of us are very active and will reply ASAP to any kind of help you need

I hope you updated that valve cover to the newer style.

 

[thefrey]

I hope you updated that valve cover to the newer style.

If you mean the flat style VLOM (pre AFM), then yes I put a new one on. Was part of my texas speed DOD kit.

It had gaskets for the towers but I still plugged them with tapered bearing rollers and still put the gaskets on for redundancy.