What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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alpha_omega

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A small portable diesel heater will work in a pinch until you get a waste oil heater up and running. Still on the finding schematics stage with mine, but those tiny 8kw diesel heaters saved our coops last winter when electric heating made no sense financially.
Depends on what you consider a winter.
 

Pandabird

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I will disagree with your battle. You would have been better of to replace the hardware altogether along with the gasket versus doing the Dorman shuffle. Personal preference thing though I suppose.
I have a slight problem with the availability of hardware at the moment but I have been looking into either importing a donor part vehicle or aiming higher, say importing an early gen 3 6.2 white pony. Might sound irrelevant but currently I need this as the hauler and secondary daily family car and local shops would hand me the lube at the door. Dorman solved it for a tenner.
 

Doubeleive

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Ok…who can help me with a torque spec?

Installed the tru-cool 40k a while back, but now am switching to AN lines coming out of the cooler. Whats the torque specs for adding -06 AN to 1/2” NPT fittings?

I’m looking for the specs at the cooler, not the -06 AN to hose specs. Those are tightened until they stop leaking and then just a little bit more.
just tighten and call it good, I put mine on like 4+ years ago they have never came loose
external cooler lines are only about 20psi
 

j91z28d1

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I have a slight problem with the availability of hardware at the moment but I have been looking into either importing a donor part vehicle or aiming higher, say importing an early gen 3 6.2 white pony. Might sound irrelevant but currently I need this as the hauler and secondary daily family car and local shops would hand me the lube at the door. Dorman solved it for a tenner.


the clamps work great. removing an exhaust manifold and snapped off bolt in the truck is never worth it to me. I'll wait till the afm comes apart and I gotta pull the heads anyways. till then the clamp is considered a permanent fix to me.
 

the_tool_man

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I had a little time left after changing the oil this evening, so I installed my freshly rebuilt Chiwanese headlights back in the Yukon. I switched to some Sealight LED bulbs, which will hopefully do a better job than the incandescent bulbs I had in them before.

1000009944.jpg


Of course now these exist, which I like even better. If I'd known I might not have bothered fixing mine. Oh well. I got other projects to do.

1000009946.jpg
 

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alpha_omega

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I have a slight problem with the availability of hardware at the moment but I have been looking into either importing a donor part vehicle or aiming higher, say importing an early gen 3 6.2 white pony. Might sound irrelevant but currently I need this as the hauler and secondary daily family car and local shops would hand me the lube at the door. Dorman solved it for a tenner.
Yeah that can be a bit of a pain to import anything over there unless it’s going via DipPouch. That was the nice thing about being in Helsinki and SPB. It still took some time, but much faster and less restrictions than standard mail and even DHL. I’d say a parts vehicle is in your future.


I had a little time left after changing the oil this evening, so I installed my freshly rebuilt Chiwanese headlights back in the Yukon. I switched to some Sealight LED bulbs, which will hopefully do a better job than the incandescent bulbs I had in them before.
How well do those work at night compared to OEM? Most of those seem bright from the oncoming traffic but didn’t help much from the drivers perspective - even when aimed properly.

Edit: Carbon Flash Metallic? That must be one shade lighter than my 2011 Storm Grey Metallic.
Of course now these exist, which I like even better. If I'd known I might not have bothered fixing mine. Oh well. I got other projects to do.

View attachment 465403
Tell us more. What’s the word on these things?
 

Grady_Wilson

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Man, that is awesome. That's a major goal of mine in the future!

I had to wait until I was retired and moved out of Calif before I got my dream shop.
Hopefully, I will have many years in this shop to get projects and regular maintenance stuff done.

After moving all my stuff, which I am still not done with, I am never moving again.
 

the_tool_man

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How well do those work at night compared to OEM? Most of those seem bright from the oncoming traffic but didn’t help much from the drivers perspective - even when aimed properly.

Edit: Carbon Flash Metallic? That must be one shade lighter than my 2011 Storm Grey Metallic.

Tell us more. What’s the word on these things?

They are okay, not great. I don't really like the beam pattern. They have a very sharp cutoff across the top, and relatively narrow beam pattern compared to OEM. I was able to aim them so that they don't blind anyone, at least not enough that anyone ever flashes me. The new LED bulbs are better in that they don't have hot/cold spots like the incandescent bulbs did. I'll live with them for now, mainly because I like the look of them and because my OEM ones need to be rebuilt or replaced. They both leak, and are badly hazed.

Carbon Flash Metallic is very dark. At first glance, you'd think it was black. You can't tell from the photo because my truck was filthy dirty. One of my next projects is a full color correction.

Those new headlights are on Amazon. I know nothing about them, except that I like the way they look, probably because you don't see them on everyone's Yukon yet. More than likely, they're about as mediocre for illumination as the ones I already have. I also like the OEM-style ones that are blacked out. At least I know the beam pattern would be good. The best aftermarket headlights are the projectors sold by Morimoto. But I struggle to justify spending $1k for them.
 

lowh07

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Love that rim choice! And is that static? If so, you must rub lke there's no tomorrow :)

Thanks yeah it's static. Actually doesn't rub too bad, but the roads around here aren't too bad, and I'm careful! I'll say the new Michelin defenders are definitely rubbing more than the Nitto, and I think it's more than just the extra tread. I think the shoulders are a little more squared off. I've also cut my liners a bit from back when I had the big 305/35/24 so that helps a lot.

1755611932276.png
 

07Burb

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Thanks yeah it's static. Actually doesn't rub too bad, but the roads around here aren't too bad, and I'm careful! I'll say the new Michelin defenders are definitely rubbing more than the Nitto, and I think it's more than just the extra tread. I think the shoulders are a little more squared off. I've also cut my liners a bit from back when I had the big 305/35/24 so that helps a lot.

View attachment 465458
Well, she looks great!
 

lowh07

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oh... I should add these wheels are 9.5" wide instead of 9", with the same +30 offset in front. So there's an extra 0.25" of wheel width towards the inside. I don't think that should really change things tho with clearance because the tire size is the same, and it's wider either way. Maybe I'm wrong
 

lowh07

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guy from norcal

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oh... I should add these wheels are 9.5" wide instead of 9", with the same +30 offset in front. So there's an extra 0.25" of wheel width towards the inside. I don't think that should really change things tho with clearance because the tire size is the same, and it's wider either way. Maybe I'm wrong
I had jeep wheels that were 9'' wide +19 offset rubbed like crazy! Had to get rid of them.
 

lowh07

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I had jeep wheels that were 9'' wide +19 offset rubbed like crazy! Had to get rid of them.
huh... I think less offset doesn't necessarily give you more room. I accidentally put the +20 on the fronts at first, and it rubbed a lot on the quick run around the block. Kinda makes sense that it would start to hit the edge of the fender instead of the more open wheel well, if that's what was happening
 

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