What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[PG01]

Get yourself a roll of STEGO tape, that stuff kicks a$$.

If it ain’t free, it ain’t fer me…..

 

[89Suburban]

If it ain’t free, it ain’t fer me…..

Pm your address you’ll get a free one

 

[PG01]

Pm your address you’ll get a free one

Only if its really free paw paw and i pay for postage….. then u gots a deal

 

[89Suburban]

Only if its really free paw paw and i pay for postage….. then u gots a deal

I got it all covered. I got free to me stuff goin on too.

 

[alpha_omega]

Replace the timing cover, VVT Solenoid, VVT Solenoid Actuator, front seal, Harmonic Balancer, ARP Balancer Bolt, Water Pump, Idler Pulley, Tensioner, and Alternator.

I still have to install the starter w/ new bolts and see if I can’t figure out how to properly run the wiring harness to the fuse box. Everything is currently unhooked, so it’s been a slow process of me basically cursing and sweating all over myself, my tools and the Denali. 113° heat index the last two days.

 

[alpha_omega]

Someone with a Denali care to send me a photo showing your wiring harness to fuse box connections. I have a couple that I need to verify the routing path on and see where each of them enter the bottom of the fuse box. I appreciate it.

 

[Doubeleive]

Someone with a Denali care to send me a photo showing your wiring harness to fuse box connections. I have a couple that I need to verify the routing path on and see where each of them enter the bottom of the fuse box. I appreciate it.

I usually reference used or pulled parts from ebay to verify where clips and bolts are located on the backside of things
this listing may help in your case or maybe others I just put in 2012 yukon fuse box into search. not sure what angle you need.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/396900698700?fits=Year:2012&_skw=2012+yukon+fuse+box&itmmeta=01K13M1GK5J4Q7HSSA8TR0MTR9&hash=item5c69200a4c:g:BrMAAeSw1tdog72h&itmprp=enc:AQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1cZ0IjwXmCUincI0iFUIz6mZeeUYahSFn9XsbVSjCt7VlLbJNB6MmsdKLKmYKQMJI5GQI98EOqR9XSkJJ2ndBaBSdDuNxVUvckyoUOLepyA5nIPSa1sd0prMk7yeoqacwg+x85b05AnXRdY4g3tJ2+C/YW9SFgc4CzNB3wAQ3cvFods8g9+exHW8k/lPssRQbaXF5ZzB/+VCRFdRRKjcuxkKR/u7QPlXqnd5qwMeQANEVq5dvRJfX9cLCQvz5ho5xg=|tkp:Bk9SR_6JhvSIZg

 

[Pandabird]

In today's episode of "Tuning with Temu"; crazed sailor brings an armrest out to sea.
(figured I have quite a bit of spare time after working hours so why not)

Overall, disassembly was a lot easier than expected, just gotta know the underside plastic separates revealing the screws holding the hinge and latch in place.
Removing the old fabric was as easy as plucking off staples with a flathead.
Beneath it is a separate layer of dense foam, just gotta see to it that it stays in place during the next bit.
Starting from the inside edge, just trace the form fit fabric along the inner edge line and staple it down, then attempt to stretch outwards and around the outer edges in as even of a fashion as possible and staple it down. Staples need to be really short and don't bother trying it with an office stapler, get a bob the builder type stapler.

Found a weird old spray bottle of upholstery foam from the late 90's and figured why not and sprayed it down until soaking wet and left it to dry for two hours according to instructions. Came back to see it looked all ruined, pale white stuff all over the surface. Turns out it wasn't the case, was able to wipe it off with soap and water and now the fabric feels a lot more hardened and springy, not soft and stretchy like before, and no longer accepts greasy fingerprints. Ten points to whatever chemical coctail that was.

Still gotta wait another week for an assembled picture of the finished project but I'm bored so here goes;

Spoiler: old pics

View attachment 461374View attachment 461375
Far from perfect but hey at least it's not any worse right? For 8 bucks I'd give this one a recommend.

Almost forgot to show off the final result. Overall I rate it 2/10 when it comes to difficulty, and I do prefer it looking a bit cheap compared to it being all torn up.

 

[mikez71]

Installed Dorman aluminium(british accent) heater T's. 1 year old SKP T's came off no problem, but the Dorman hoses left their clip on the T. One spilled its o-rings and spacers. Think I got them back in right... Also replaced small sections of wiring loom that had disintegrated.

Replaced my 2 year old OEM thermostat that seems to stick. Slapped a Motorad 180 deg in there. Old one opened up (fully?) anywhere from 194 to 203 degrees. So far this Motorad seemes to drop temp around 188 deg. I will try a lower fan-on temp like maybe 195. (factory fan 1 on temp is ~201 degF)

Think I found the sticking point on the GM thermostat.

 

[mikez71]

I bought some used wheels for summer.. Tires might be ok for a couple seasons.
18" tires are more square looking than 17's. Even though my 265/70-17 has a wider tread than these 275/65-18.

old 17's

 

[89Suburban]

Drove the balls off it. Gave it a bath. Smacked that shiny hippo hiney of hers. Tucked her back into bed.

Oh, and the r/r TPMS stopped sending a signal. Annoying…

 

[j91z28d1]

Installed Dorman aluminium(british accent) heater T's. 1 year old SKP T's came off no problem, but the Dorman hoses left their clip on the T. One spilled its o-rings and spacers. Think I got them back in right... Also replaced small sections of wiring loom that had disintegrated.
View attachment 463555

Replaced my 2 year old OEM thermostat that seems to stick. Slapped a Motorad 180 deg in there. Old one opened up (fully?) anywhere from 194 to 203 degrees. So far this Motorad seemes to drop temp around 188 deg. I will try a lower fan-on temp like maybe 195. (factory fan 1 on temp is ~201 degF)

Think I found the sticking point on the GM thermostat.
View attachment 463556
View attachment 463557

that's so bad, even the oem isn't any good these days.

those motorad temps are all over the map from what I hear. good enough for most but if you care they say buy 3 or 4 and test them. one might open at what it's rated as.

I believe Mahal or how ever it's spelled makes the oem ones for gm. a little cooler shouldn't hurt anything thou. I made a 170 for the ls3 car and it's about right to me. runs 190 ish

 

[mikez71]

That OEM stat was sticking from the start. Costs 3x what others cost!
Even though it was within normal operating range, the variability made me worry it might stick for good someday.

So far the Motorad is consistently at 188 degrees where I notice the temp dropping for the first time.
186 must be fully closed, as temps climb up from there.
Also I did remove the jiggler valve, which leaves about a 1/8" hole. (What I wanted)
For whatever reason I liked the way the Motorad looked over the Aisin/Vernet.
Gates (good reviews?), Lingenfelter (bad reviews?) look just like the Motorad.
Ultra-power, Dorman and maybe Autotechnica look like the OEM design.
Mine was a 180, Motorad also have a 174 and 160.. and another design..

ECT modifier for spark timing shows upto -3 degrees at 212F coolant temp and 0 degrees at 194F.
So at 203F there would be upto -1.5 degree of timing pulled.
Looks like staying between 176-194 should be 0 timing pulled (or added).

 

[KidHauler]

Putting this little Gem in today

 

[mikez71]

What's that from? Pickup?

 

[KidHauler]

What's that from? Pickup?

Accessory rear console. Been discontinued for who knows how long now. For those with middle row captain seats.

 

[Pandabird]

Accessory rear console. Been discontinued for who knows how long now. For those with middle row captain seats.

oo I have that one! Fingers crossed it will not interfere with the cargo grate that's gonna arrive on wednesday so that I can finally get rid of this godawful "separate cargo space" loophole solution that is a literal cargo pallet in the trunk
Pic 1 (my current situation)

Pic 2 (what I'm hoping will work, pic taken from an Escalade)

 

[Charlie207]

Added tow-hooks to the front. They had been removed by a previous owner when they installed the Rough Country bullbar.

Also, did a little hammering on the corner of the upgraded aluminum splash-guard. Had to drill a hole to align with the factory frame hole, and I was soooo close by just eyeballing it. Only needed to use a hand file to add 1/8" of clearance to line up.

There's still a little hump there from whatever the K2 frame has on it, but I'm not too worried. Anything is better than the plastic splash-guard.

 

[Sparksalot]

Added tow-hooks to the front. They had been removed by a previous owner when they installed the Rough Country bullbar.

View attachment 463634

Also, did a little hammering on the corner of the upgraded aluminum splash-guard. Had to drill a hole to align with the factory frame hole, and I was soooo close by just eyeballing it. Only needed to use a hand file to add 1/8" of clearance to line up.
View attachment 463635

There's still a little hump there from whatever the K2 frame has on it, but I'm not too worried. Anything is better than the plastic splash-guard.

This is what it looks like actually on a K2.

 

[j91z28d1]

That OEM stat was sticking from the start. Costs 3x what others cost!
Even though it was within normal operating range, the variability made me worry it might stick for good someday.

So far the Motorad is consistently at 188 degrees where I notice the temp dropping for the first time,
and as cool as the engine will get. Also I did remove the jiggler valve, which leaves about a 1/8" hole. (What I wanted)
For whatever reason I liked the way the Motorad looked over the Aisin/Vernet.
Gates (good reviews?), Lingenfelter (bad reviews?) look just like the Motorad.
Ultra-power, Dorman and maybe Autotechnica look like the OEM design.
Mine was a 180, Motorad also have a 174 and 160.. and another design..

ECT modifier for spark timing shows upto -3 degrees at 212F coolant temp and 0 degrees at 194F.
So at 203F there would be upto -1.5 degree of timing pulled.
Looks like staying between 176-194 should be 0 timing pulled (or added).

View attachment 463599

yeah, I read somewhere that Stan bought out everyone and changed the name moto rad or something like that. I have 2 but they felt cheap and I wanted the 170deg stat that no one made. mine was the smaller 08 and down size. so that limited stuff too. I had to combine 2 and tack weld some stuff. not something normal people would do haha.

I agree with the timing thou, everyone says there's no power in a cooler water temp, but the tune definitely shows at least the oem was worried about timing vs coolent temp. I've left the stock 187 in the yukon cause eh, hybrid and all. hp isn't really a big deal. I only went down the rabbit hole for the ls3 car. I didn't want to go full 160 because I do drive it or least did drive it on cold days, but 180 seemed pointless when 187 is stock. 170 seemed about right. rule of thumb seems to be the stat in the inlet side runs about 15deg hotter on adv than the actual head water temp. it was a lot easier with a Gen 2 sbc on the out let side and the engine just ran the temp of the stat.


the Lingenfelter is definitely just a Motorrad. Just reboxed.