strutaeng
Full Access Member
Nice. We own a 2013 T&C, I think I mentioned before. It's at like at 89k currently. I haven't replaced anything in the drivetrain yet. How many miles were on that 2015?
There are just some days I wish I didn't turn wrenches
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OP
OP
Not sure, I will find out Wednesday when I do the oil change reminder sticker, for the front glass.
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Rotor-cap-plugs-wires....... First things first..... Then go from there....
OP
OP
He said he had done the cap and rotor about a year ago because of crud and moisture in there. That is why I told him to look again. I asked about the age of plugs and wires. He had no idea. Gonna cost him if I dig deeper,
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Once, on a road trip in my '81 Chevy van, I pulled over and had my wife drive.
I then removed the doghouse and tweaked the distributor, at 60-65 mph; to remove the slight rattle on hills.
She was freaking out, watching the highway racing by under the engine.
Which was exactly why I did it that way.
Good times.
joe
strutaeng
Full Access Member
My 99 Silverado originally had the 4.3 which is basically a 5.7 Vortec minus 2 cylinders. At some point I started having issues with it cranking but not firing if wet, humid or dew on the mornings. My mechanic had replaced the distributor with an aftermarket one. I literally checked or swapped everything. Huge kick in the nuts for me, especially because I was learning proper diagnostics. It seemed like every other morning I had to borrow my wife's minivan to take the kids to school and get to work. Even my wife was embarrassed.
Once I got sent to Rockport to look at the City Hall building due to Harvey damage. Of course, the next day I open the hotel door and it's foggy and the damn thing wouldn't fire! Called a few shops and nobody had time for next 3-4 days. I was so pissed and swore I would never own another truck with a distributor. I think it finally fired after literally cranking until the battery was almost completely dead.
I bought my 06 Suburban shortly after that and that truck got retired...I was so close to listing it on Craigslist, cheap for like $1,000. It sat for a few years until I decided to bring it back to life by swapping a 5.3. No more distributors for me. I know a lot folks like them, but I don't. I sat on my belly too much trying to mess with that thing on the back of the engine, LOL.
Once I got sent to Rockport to look at the City Hall building due to Harvey damage. Of course, the next day I open the hotel door and it's foggy and the damn thing wouldn't fire! Called a few shops and nobody had time for next 3-4 days. I was so pissed and swore I would never own another truck with a distributor. I think it finally fired after literally cranking until the battery was almost completely dead.
I bought my 06 Suburban shortly after that and that truck got retired...I was so close to listing it on Craigslist, cheap for like $1,000. It sat for a few years until I decided to bring it back to life by swapping a 5.3. No more distributors for me. I know a lot folks like them, but I don't. I sat on my belly too much trying to mess with that thing on the back of the engine, LOL.
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OP
OP
As I have posted here, my girl is selling her 1990 K2500 GMT400 and we bought a 2004 GMT800 K2500HD and I will be doing some work on it. Since it is actually her truck and not mine, there will be no "Build Thread" for it. The work will be done here.
To start with will be replacing both headlight assemblies. They are both old and a little cloudy but the p/s one is the worst. TYC assemblies at RA, with shipping and RA discount will get here for $88+. It might take me 10 minutes to replace both assemblies. Looks very easy. When I do them, pics will be posted here and "Let the games begin".
To start with will be replacing both headlight assemblies. They are both old and a little cloudy but the p/s one is the worst. TYC assemblies at RA, with shipping and RA discount will get here for $88+. It might take me 10 minutes to replace both assemblies. Looks very easy. When I do them, pics will be posted here and "Let the games begin".
OP
OP
Tackled the 2005 Tahoe LS today and instead of doing just the v/c seals/gaskets, I did the updated valve covers. Went pretty straight forward. Some people leave the coils on the racks and just remove the whole rack and coil assembly as one unit. That last rack attaching bolt is a PITA to get to, so I remove the coils and then access is real easy. I will try to post these in order. I did p/s first. Total labor time is 2.5 hours.
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Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
The NBS has an updated vc? For oil consumption?
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Yea... a gasket.
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
We don't need no stinking gaskets.
OP
OP
In the pics of the new valve covers, you can see the little window. The OE covers, there is no window.
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
What's the purpose?
Partially correct. The breather hole in the OE VC is round, and the updated one is rectangular and in a different location to minimize how much oil spray gets into it.
@mattbta shows the comparison here:
proactive instead of reactive - another AFM delete
with 144k on the clock of my '07 Tahoe, i feel the sun setting on the family truckster to stay in its original state. so like the many threads i have read before posting this one, i am humbly asking for a check of my homework before i start clicking buy buttons, and for some further...
www.tahoeyukonforum.com
OP
OP
As I have said in a couple other threads, I will be 72 in 9 days but still like to do as much of my own work as I can and I do work on neighborhood vehicles and for my American Legion and VFW.
Worked on a friend of an American Legion member's 2014 Silverado K2500HD with a Duramax. It was a simple oil change, so I thought. Has 143k miles on it.
Plenty of room to put my filter strap on and loosen it. It was on so tight, that as I am laying on my yoga mat style roll out pad, I pulled hard enough that I actually lifted the upper half of my body off the mat. I finally used my left hand on the filter wrench and my right hand grabbed the bottom of the R/F rotor and I pulled for all I was worth and it budged. I got a second grip and it budged again. 4 budges later I loosened it and drained and swapped with my preferred WIX filter, after lubing the new filter seal.
Then on to the easier drain plug, or so I thought. I had a long reach 13mm combination wrench on it and it would not budge either. Tried 2 more times with no luck. Thankfully the 6 point drain plug head was still looking good. I got a long reach Mac swivel head 3/8 ratchet with a USA Craftsman 3/8" drive short 6 point chrome socket. Pulled and felt it give. I was saying, "Finally" along with a few other choice words. Then I looked. The wall of the socket busted out. I had had enough at this point and called the owner and told her I was not responsible for however farther I went with this, She said, "Go for it". I got out my very powerful 3/8" drive Milwaukee Tool impact and Put a 13mm 3/8" drive impact socket, SK this time, and burped it a couple time and I put the wrench back on and it broke loose.
Done a few oil changes in my day but that was the tightest that I have ever seen where both were ridiculously tight. I expected stretched drain plug threads but they were ok and after draining, I installed a new Genuine GM drain plug, after checking seal surface of the pan and wiping clean. The rest of it went fine. I reset the oil life reminder and shipped it.
See pics. I told her it looks like a RMS is leaking.
Worked on a friend of an American Legion member's 2014 Silverado K2500HD with a Duramax. It was a simple oil change, so I thought. Has 143k miles on it.
Plenty of room to put my filter strap on and loosen it. It was on so tight, that as I am laying on my yoga mat style roll out pad, I pulled hard enough that I actually lifted the upper half of my body off the mat. I finally used my left hand on the filter wrench and my right hand grabbed the bottom of the R/F rotor and I pulled for all I was worth and it budged. I got a second grip and it budged again. 4 budges later I loosened it and drained and swapped with my preferred WIX filter, after lubing the new filter seal.
Then on to the easier drain plug, or so I thought. I had a long reach 13mm combination wrench on it and it would not budge either. Tried 2 more times with no luck. Thankfully the 6 point drain plug head was still looking good. I got a long reach Mac swivel head 3/8 ratchet with a USA Craftsman 3/8" drive short 6 point chrome socket. Pulled and felt it give. I was saying, "Finally" along with a few other choice words. Then I looked. The wall of the socket busted out. I had had enough at this point and called the owner and told her I was not responsible for however farther I went with this, She said, "Go for it". I got out my very powerful 3/8" drive Milwaukee Tool impact and Put a 13mm 3/8" drive impact socket, SK this time, and burped it a couple time and I put the wrench back on and it broke loose.
Done a few oil changes in my day but that was the tightest that I have ever seen where both were ridiculously tight. I expected stretched drain plug threads but they were ok and after draining, I installed a new Genuine GM drain plug, after checking seal surface of the pan and wiping clean. The rest of it went fine. I reset the oil life reminder and shipped it.
See pics. I told her it looks like a RMS is leaking.
Tonyv__
Full Access Member
I feel like this happens to me every time I get a “ new to me” car. The last person who does the oil always over tightens everything.
The van that I just picked up in July had an oil filter so tight that I ended up punching a screw driver through it to break it free. I also used my Milwaukee 3/8 impact to break the drain bolt free.
