not a lot right now, it's the heat that kills them here
What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter phattyford
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
I checked mine back in July and it was still at 95% so it should make it through the winter.
BacDoc
Full Access Member
Agreed!
Im in Florida and I can confirm that heat is ******* batteries. Here it’s not unusual for battery to go bad in a couple years.
When I lived in So Cal, my batteries usually lasted about 5 years then they were done.
That was in an area that regularly saw temps up to 113*.
The only real way to know if a battery is good is to do a load test.
I bought one many years ago and I replaced that old analog one with a digital one a few years ago.
That was in an area that regularly saw temps up to 113*.
The only real way to know if a battery is good is to do a load test.
I bought one many years ago and I replaced that old analog one with a digital one a few years ago.
Charlie207
Full Access Member
Swapped in some 50lb. injectors after work today. Received the updated BBP tune the other day, and was waiting for so e free time.
Buttoned everything up, flashed the updated tune, and it fired right up (with no leaks). Took it for a quick drive to make sure it would run through the gears, and it seemed to run smoother.
This is the 4th version of the new 6.0 tune, as V3 was a nightmare: it hated to fire up; would just crank endlessly. It would stall every time I rolled to a stop, or coasted slowly in traffic, and had a bunch of DTCs. I don't know if there was a corruption in the file, but I flashed V3 multiple times and the engine was unhappy each time. Up until today I've been running the 2nd version of the 6.0 tune, as it had been the most stable.
Buttoned everything up, flashed the updated tune, and it fired right up (with no leaks). Took it for a quick drive to make sure it would run through the gears, and it seemed to run smoother.
This is the 4th version of the new 6.0 tune, as V3 was a nightmare: it hated to fire up; would just crank endlessly. It would stall every time I rolled to a stop, or coasted slowly in traffic, and had a bunch of DTCs. I don't know if there was a corruption in the file, but I flashed V3 multiple times and the engine was unhappy each time. Up until today I've been running the 2nd version of the 6.0 tune, as it had been the most stable.
it's kinda crazy how all the fancy battery charging control and algorithm cars have these days. built in modes to clean the plates and all. still get 3 to 5 years from them. old cars. with standard flat charging lasted the same 3 to 5 years. so much tech for so little reward.
randeez
Full Access Member
always measure girth at the widest part
not always the easiest to do when you're trying to order parts ahead of time.
or in the end just use a standard worm drive clamp. the internet trend that they fail or cause failures feels fake. I've never once had a issue using a old school clamps.
the spring clamps can look nice thou, when you have a stock engine with all the same clamps. it would be nice to keep the theme going. I was one short on a catch can install, and couldn't find one local to match. being that it would probably stay one without a clamp at all, I just put a zip tie on a out of site one connection.
I wouldn't mind a nice rack of common sizes at work as long as the company paid them thou haha.
gooffeyguy
Tom
The worm drive clamps I have on my external trans filter setup would leak during the winter and I would have to tighten them. That's why I switched them over to spring clamps
maybe it's a southern thing.. I've seen some over the years seep a bit here and there, usually big ones in the 2in and bigger range and only really because other techs just use a screw driver on them. but a quick snug with a nut driver and never happens again.
the cheaper ones will cut in to a hose if your over tighten them but the good ones are smooth inside.
I only trust spring clamps on low pressure stuff like radiator or vacuum lines. you're braver than me using them on a tranny hose. at work we make up Parker hydraulic lines with an fittings for anything tranny related. to much risk of fire on tranny stuff for hose clamps. and never on fuel lines. fuel lines have then own set of rules. they basically shouldn't be repaired, just replaced. except for the return line of the diesels from the injector rail to tank. even the manufacturers use crap quality hoses and stuff on that. which is weird we worry more about tranny and hydraulic leaks than diesel haha. gas we treat like it's radioactive waste with the chromium in it
I'm sure if the kit comes with it, it's fine but I couldn't run a spring clamp on anything a oem wouldn't use them on and I've never seen them used on high pressure on a stock setup? but I don't work on everything. maybe some German stuff uses them.
992dr
Full Access Member
Haven't been on much lately, pop in here and there.
This is a momentous occasion haha I finally found a set of wheels I thought were a little different.
Tires are from ebay, supposedly 50k mile tires.
20 x 10 +10 w275/45 tires, they are the exact footprint (or close to it) of my previous tires.
I only drove home, which was about 5 miles, and I didn't really feel much of a difference.
They do stick out of the fender a little, which I'm not too keen about but it is what it is.
Happy Friday
This is a momentous occasion haha I finally found a set of wheels I thought were a little different.
Tires are from ebay, supposedly 50k mile tires.
20 x 10 +10 w275/45 tires, they are the exact footprint (or close to it) of my previous tires.
I only drove home, which was about 5 miles, and I didn't really feel much of a difference.
They do stick out of the fender a little, which I'm not too keen about but it is what it is.
Happy Friday
Attachments
gooffeyguy
Tom
It's a line going to the trans cooler, I installed an external filter setup on and it's not high pressure
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
I think they look really good. I like them. Kind of looks like an exaggerated version of the GTA Trans Am rims--which I like. Very nice, just need some center caps.Haven't been on much lately, pop in here and there.
This is a momentous occasion haha I finally found a set of wheels I thought were a little different.
Tires are from ebay, supposedly 50k mile tires.
20 x 10 +10 w275/45 tires, they are the exact footprint (or close to it) of my previous tires.
I only drove home, which was about 5 miles, and I didn't really feel much of a difference.
They do stick out of the fender a little, which I'm not too keen about but it is what it is.
Happy Friday
992dr
Full Access Member
Too funny, that's what I was thinking.
Thanks
Oh yeah, I'm on the center caps. I didn't like the emblem in the center, it was a sticker. So I'm making some new ones to bolt into the centers. Once they're done, I'll post some pics.
Spring Clamps are the way to go for low pressure stuff
Last edited:
blackelky
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Oct 15, 2023
- Posts
- 586
- Reaction score
- 770
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Are the front seats torn up? That perforated leather is terrible.
Given the year, the seats most likely need attention.
The vast majority of factory leather seats are made out of camel scr0tum
The vast majority of factory leather seats are made out of camel scr0tum
mikez71
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Mar 9, 2023
- Posts
- 3,225
- Reaction score
- 3,993
Prepared(sanded) new rotors and got ready to install them with new pads because my rear brakes have been sqeaky.
Found the previous mech installed both inside pads on one side and both outside pads on the other.
The outside pads have a rivet, which interfered with the piston, denting it and when I pryed the caliper off, it tore off some part of the stainless? cap.
Ripped the stray metal off the piston and pushed the edges down.
Pads had 50%+ so I sanded the old rotors as well and reinstalled old pads in correct locations.
Couldn't see any taper on the old pads, for now they are quiet again.
Probably the raised edge on the rotor doing the squeaking is my guess..
Saving the new pads/rotors for the AXN axle swap instead..
Found the previous mech installed both inside pads on one side and both outside pads on the other.
The outside pads have a rivet, which interfered with the piston, denting it and when I pryed the caliper off, it tore off some part of the stainless? cap.
Ripped the stray metal off the piston and pushed the edges down.
Pads had 50%+ so I sanded the old rotors as well and reinstalled old pads in correct locations.
Couldn't see any taper on the old pads, for now they are quiet again.
Probably the raised edge on the rotor doing the squeaking is my guess..
Saving the new pads/rotors for the AXN axle swap instead..
Last edited:
