Crankshaft position sensor went bad can it get me home?

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Trey Hardy

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I took the truck across the street today after work and sitting in the parking lot the randomly bogged down not long after it just died and wouldn’t start without pumping the gas and then it would run kinda rough.
Only Code that popped was the crankshaft position sensor.
The nearest parts store which would be a advance auto brand aftermarket sensor is 1.5 hr away
Y’all think it can make it home or do I need to make a road trip after work tomorrow to try and get a new sensor before I leave wensday…
I got two ferry’s I got to get on then it’s only 20 min to my house but I don’t want to be I the ferry line or worse on the ferry and she completely quit and die on me
 

Dustin Jackson

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The ECU might go into limp mode to protect the motor. I don’t think you’ll hurt the motor I’m more thinking that it won’t be drivable in this condition but if you think you can limp it home it might not be a big deal
 

skpyle

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For what it is worth, the CKP failed on the 6.2L in my 2013 Escalade a few months ago. Engine ran, but seemed a bit off. Tach did not work, either. Reading the troubleshooting guide, ECU drives VVT to minimum. Engine will run, but at reduced power. I had to drive it home 50 miles. I made it just fine, though was on pins and needles. Power seemed less, but no so much I couldn't drive it.
Me, I say, give it a go. Drive like you have some sense, and be aware of what is going on.

Because, changing the CKP is no joke. Starter has to come out, as it is right up on the block behind it. Working by Braille.

Good Luck!
 
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Trey Hardy

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For what it is worth, the CKP failed on the 6.2L in my 2013 Escalade a few months ago. Engine ran, but seemed a bit off. Tach did not work, either. Reading the troubleshooting guide, ECU drives VVT to minimum. Engine will run, but at reduced power. I had to drive it home 50 miles. I made it just fine, though was on pins and needles. Power seemed less, but no so much I couldn't drive it.
Me, I say, give it a go. Drive like you have some sense, and be aware of what is going on.

Because, changing the CKP is no joke. Starter has to come out, as it is right up on the block behind it. Working by Braille.

Good Luck!
I thought it was up front by the harmonic balancer and timing chain cover on the driver side?
 
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Trey Hardy

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The ECU might go into limp mode to protect the motor. I don’t think you’ll hurt the motor I’m more thinking that it won’t be drivable in this condition but if you think you can limp it home it might not be a big deal
I just diddnt want to be dead in the water when it comes time to board the ferry or get off the ferry. Then if I’m late to the second one getting off Ocracoke I’ll be stuck there for hours before another one leaves.
 
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Trey Hardy

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For what it is worth, the CKP failed on the 6.2L in my 2013 Escalade a few months ago. Engine ran, but seemed a bit off. Tach did not work, either. Reading the troubleshooting guide, ECU drives VVT to minimum. Engine will run, but at reduced power. I had to drive it home 50 miles. I made it just fine, though was on pins and needles. Power seemed less, but no so much I couldn't drive it.
Me, I say, give it a go. Drive like you have some sense, and be aware of what is going on.

Because, changing the CKP is no joke. Starter has to come out, as it is right up on the block behind it. Working by Braille.

Good Luck!
Yes my mechanic said the same thing I should be good to drive it home and that it might just take a couple try’s to get her started if she does die I think ima just wait until I get home that way I can get a good Delphi sensor instead of a cheap aftermarket I don’t want to have to do this twice cause of a ****** sensor. Soonest they can get a sensor here is Tuesday anyways so I don’t really want to be messing with it Tuesday night before I leave wensday morning
 

Tonyv__

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Great that adds about 45 min to the job probably lol
Well you’re lifted so you can just crawl right under there. It’s pretty straight forward. 2 bolts holding the starter. I think 13mm or 14mm. Just move the starter out of the way. Doesn’t need to be completely removed. Then reach up in there with a 10mm for the sensor and it comes right out. Be gentle with the wiring, it’s tucked under the manifold and exposed to a ton of heat so it will likely be brittle

Source: I’ve done this about 10 times this past month. Fingers crossed you’re situation is just a simple sensor
 

89Suburban

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Will replacing the crank sensor require a relearn?
 
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Trey Hardy

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Well you’re lifted so you can just crawl right under there. It’s pretty straight forward. 2 bolts holding the starter. I think 13mm or 14mm. Just move the starter out of the way. Doesn’t need to be completely removed. Then reach up in there with a 10mm for the sensor and it comes right out. Be gentle with the wiring, it’s tucked under the manifold and exposed to a ton of heat so it will likely be brittle

Source: I’ve done this about 10 times this past month. Fingers crossed you’re situation is just a simple sensor
Thanks boss I appreciate it
 
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Trey Hardy

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So my two buddy’s who work in the shop one said to drive it home just might take a couple try’s to get it started the other said to unplug the sensor all together that it will start and run but will run rough but by doing so it wouldn’t stall out on me like it did anyways
Still thinking on picking up that sensor Tuesday just incase so I’ll have it on hand when I go to head home the last thing I want is to get stuck on ocratraz
 
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Trey Hardy

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Anyone know if I’ll need a fancy scanner to relearn the new sensor?
 

donjetman

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I thought it was up front by the harmonic balancer and timing chain cover on the driver side?
Camshaft position sensor under it own little mounting cover.
CSPS outside.JPG



And they usually don't comeout without a fight :(
CSPS inside.JPG
 

Doubeleive

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Got a pic for the crankshaft position sensor? lol I thought that was it but it was the cam sensor on the front I guess by the balancer
it's behind the starter, you will need to disconnect the battery then unbolt the starter and drop it down and maybe the bracket behind it.
when you go to pull the sensor out spray it up real good first with some kind of lubricant and then start by twisting back and forth slowly then ease it out they are known to break apart and then you will be fishing pieces of it out of there, when you put the new one in lube the seal so it doesn't get messed up and start leaking
probably going to make life easier by removing the front right wheel as well.
might not require a relearn but I would do one anyway
to do the relearn parking brake should set, and then follow the directions it will tell you to cycle the key, then when it tells you too apply the regular brake pedal and use your other foot to rev the engine until the fuel cuts off (around 4k). then your done

**if you are using a clone tech2 then you will want to plug in a 12v power adapter to house power at the bottom right corner of the tech2, because when you cycle the key the clone tech2 will loose vehicle power it's the only defect of the clones.
 

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