I can't find the one for my 4 button.
What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter phattyford
- Start date
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George B
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Ordered a used OE on Ebay for $15.00 Delivered. will swap my board and membrane over. I hope the case is good.
that's why it's called a upgrade, I changed my oem one like that on the 18 to a AJT designs, flat black
I have dropped it, stepped on it, flung it across the room, you name it.
I will let you know shortly, my amazon order was just delivered and when i get home ill look. I was also skeptical when i got some from Amazon last year or 2 yrs ago because they weren’t wrapped in clear plastic like they used to be… apparently k&n is saving the planet by not using plastic anymore…. I liked the wrap because you knew no debris or whatever could be in the filter unless it came from the factory and we all know how easily oil filter boxes open for some reason….
No idea on the hood strut. I can't recall what my 2010 D'max had under there. I wonder why some have a grounding wire, and some don't.
Anyway, I used this cheap-o Amazon version for the battery isolator. It looks just like the more popular Keyline one, but costs 1/2 as much. And it had like 12ft of red wire, and only 2ft of black.
I used the black and maybe 6-7ft of red.Today I added the RC-knockoff 2" lower strut leveling block. Took most of the day, but that was with teaching my nephew all along the way (frustrating at times, but gotta guide the youngsters).
One the passenger side my CV boot has a small tear, and grease was all over. So now I'm shopping for boots/axles. $25 for a boot kit vs. $70+ for a whole new axle.... I mean, the labor is the real cost, and I'll be doing that myself, and the whole CV is [probably...?] less messy, thus saving my labor/cleanup.... Hm....
Just a quick snap when we stopped to grab a burger after wrapping up. Man, you can barely even tell I had side moldings on there....
<sigh> Eraser wheel/buffing kit is on the way, and you can actually see the tube with the new slim BSMs in the rear window. That's the coming weekend's project. Tomorrow I need to get the wipers/arms back on, before the storm arrives. Also really need to align my headlamps with the higher nose.-bZj
Great post!No idea on the hood strut. I can't recall what my 2010 D'max had under there. I wonder why some have a grounding wire, and some don't.
Anyway, I used this cheap-o Amazon version for the battery isolator. It looks just like the more popular Keyline one, but costs 1/2 as much. And it had like 12ft of red wire, and only 2ft of black.
Today I added the RC-knockoff 2" lower strut leveling block. Took most of the day, but that was with teaching my nephew all along the way (frustrating at times, but gotta guide the youngsters).
View attachment 414274
One the passenger side my CV boot has a small tear, and grease was all over. So now I'm shopping for boots/axles. $25 for a boot kit vs. $70+ for a whole new axle.... I mean, the labor is the real cost, and I'll be doing that myself, and the whole CV is [probably...?] less messy, thus saving my labor/cleanup.... Hm....
View attachment 414275
Just a quick snap when we stopped to grab a burger after wrapping up. Man, you can barely even tell I had side moldings on there....
-bZj
DOH! It’s there. I must have been thinking of one of our other cars.
Doh! It’s there.
4th drive cycle, cat/02 have set, evap will it's no issue, could still be a borderline cat but time will tell if I make it a couple more days with no cat code then I'll call it good
it's for my 11 hybrid. I went ahead and tossed one in my order of some brakes. we'll see what shows up haha. part number seems correct, just cheaper price under close out for some reason.
I'm super behind but mine started fluctuating only on long hour plus road trips.. it was to fast to actually be a reading. oil is thick, I can't really flicker like a light bulb. it was the new "oem" sensor I had just put in from Amazon few 1000 miles earlier. replaced it with a dealer sensor and all fixed for a good 15k at this point. I'm convinced the Amazon oem is a counterfeit.
Yesterday after I found my hood strut where it is supposed to be I went through the engine bay and cleaned all the battery and engine grounds and reinstalled them. Also the cable from the positive post of the alternator to the positive post of the battery. I did not want to mess with that ground connection on the back of the engine so I cleaned the body post and checked the ohms from the engine to that cable and it was good. Did add a heavier cable from that post to the mount by the alternator, though, just in case. I feel like I should add another ground point to the body for that new cable but that will have to wait for another day. I also removed the bumper and cleaned those front chassis grounds but forgot to take a pic. I had gotten a low battery warning last week but I knew my battery was good, so I hope this fixes it, as well, those other miscellaneous electrical grounds under the hood that should forstall any problems.
well fuckaduck guess the sound........
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Muffler bearings need more grease 
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
Worth a shot.
I also need to get a factory cylinder head temp sensor; I'm suspecting some issues with it when the engine is cold.
iamdub
Full Access Member
Chunks of catalyst rattling in the case?
Cat rattle? Or rod bearing...
bingo! funny thing the drivers side did the exact same thing 6 months ago, finally get the cat code to go away and the passenger side cat breaks apart
thankfully not the later....
Actually paid someone else to do an oil change on the 2012 because we're taking a camping trip starting this weekend and will be driving 1000 miles or so. It's a local quick lube that has competent techs who do good work. $95 out the door for 5w-40 Euro spec oil (engine mods).
