2010 Burb Misfire

[Just Fishing]

Specs for those that hate links ( https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12638427 )

 

[solli5pack]

That's a smaller LM7 grind with VVT. Cost you about 10-15 horsepower.

These are the cam grinds in your two trucks:

View attachment 403057

I'm cool with the HP loss. I just want it to run well.

 

[solli5pack]

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12638427 = I have this cam.
I love it.

It's the stock 6.2 cam, has tons of low end.

ETA: Reviews state it "might" require a valve spring upgrade, so you will want to verify that the valve lift is compatable.
I think it is with the stock 699 heads... but again verify.

And I used 12689035 my first go around.
Lame cam, I lost power from the stock DOD camshaft.
Run away.

I dont mind some power loss if it's going to run well. I rarely tow with it and definitely don't race with it. I usually drive like an 80 yr old

 

[j91z28d1]

So the question now is do I put it in or keep my 170,000 mile original one which has never given me a problem whatsoever. I've been messing with both my trucks so much lately I honestly feel I could pull the intake in like 20 minutes so if it does go bad it's not the end of the world.

you can actually get to it without the pulling the intake. I did the first time cause figured it would be easier and new. gaskets were cheap and high mileage. the 2nd time, I just did it with the intake on. it's a hassle but doable. one guy took that black hook looking brace off the back of the driver's side head, said it made it much eaiser to get to.

maybe leave that off, leave the 170k one in there, when it fails put the new one and and see what it how long it lasts. it's not going to hurt anything, it just can be scary if you think you have no oil pressure because you just put a new sensor in it. just remember it could be the sensor, or it could be real haha.

or vice versa. put the new one in and and keep the old on the shelf incase.

 

[j91z28d1]

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12638427 = I have this cam.
I love it.

It's the stock 6.2 cam, has tons of low end.

ETA: Reviews state it "might" require a valve spring upgrade, so you will want to verify that the valve lift is compatable.
I think it is with the stock 699 heads... but again verify.

And I used 12689035 my first go around.
Lame cam, I lost power from the stock DOD camshaft.
Run away.

thats interesting first hand experience. usually cams just kinda move power bands around. did you notice any better tq, say off idle and under 2k?

i get a lot of people don't drive that way, but honestly if mine sees 3k rpm it's probably with my wife driving, I just cruise around with it letting it keep the rpms around 2k or less.

 

[swathdiver]

Specs for those that hate links ( https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12638427 )
View attachment 403062

That's hotter than a stock 6.2 cam. Stock springs max out a .511 lift or so.

 

[Just Fishing]

thats interesting first hand experience. usually cams just kinda move power bands around. did you notice any better tq, say off idle and under 2k?

i get a lot of people don't drive that way, but honestly if mine sees 3k rpm it's probably with my wife driving, I just cruise around with it letting it keep the rpms around 2k or less.

To be quite honest, I ran the small cam when I tried to save my 5.3, then a good deal came along on a brand-new gm 6.0 bare block.
My experience with the small cam in the 5.3 is that it took away too much power.
Very noticeable, but it is a "Safe" option, and it ran very smoothly with it.

Higher RPM felt good, but I wasn't happy with how it cruised and how it accelerated.
I noticed it had to down shift more often...

Now moving to the larger cam and the 6.0 build was a different story, I also moved to the AFR mongoose heads due to some parts availability issues and my own unwilling to compromise.

With that I also upped the rocker arm ratio to make use of the fancy heads + the fancy heads stated they required full roller rockers...
I have about .600 total valve lift right now.

With that 6.0 build, it ran fine with the stock tune and the larger camshaft.
but in the end, I ended up copying over the MAF fueling from a 6.0 to resolve some lean issues over the winter.

I suspect you wouldn't have that issue with the 5.3 stock tune, but as noted by @swathdiver you will need to go with a different valve spring to accommodate the extra lift.

With my current setup, I also installed a new converter it's a little looser than the stock, but not by much.

Low rpm cruising =
I pretty much idle everywhere.

Much of that may be due to the displacement change, but I did gain a few miles per gallon going up the canyon to visit some family.
Never needed to downshift, where before I was downshifting often with the 5.3 setup.

So, my experience isn't a perfect match, but I will warn you about that small camshaft in the 5.3.

I nearly ran the small camshaft in the 6.0, but then someone on here warned me about it, so I went with the larger camshaft and never looked back.

I'll also note that it might be a good idea to do your valve seals while the heads are off.
While you have the springs off, maybe a good time to upgrade to a nice behive spring to open the options up.
It would be a good idea to do some re-seating of the valves to make sure it idles perfectly (while you're in there and stuff).

Or drop the heads off with your local machine shop and have them do the work, new seals, re-seat, general look over the heads, and maybe a valve spring upgrade.

Or just take the easy way out and get a nice "Stock" like camshaft, just think twice about that tiny turd.

 

[solli5pack]

To be quite honest, I ran the small cam when I tried to save my 5.3, then a good deal came along on a brand-new gm 6.0 bare block.
My experience with the small cam in the 5.3 is that it took away too much power.
Very noticeable, but it is a "Safe" option, and it ran very smoothly with it.

Higher RPM felt good, but I wasn't happy with how it cruised and how it accelerated.
I noticed it had to down shift more often...

Now moving to the larger cam and the 6.0 build was a different story, I also moved to the AFR mongoose heads due to some parts availability issues and my own unwilling to compromise.

With that I also upped the rocker arm ratio to make use of the fancy heads + the fancy heads stated they required full roller rockers...
I have about .600 total valve lift right now.

With that 6.0 build, it ran fine with the stock tune and the larger camshaft.
but in the end, I ended up copying over the MAF fueling from a 6.0 to resolve some lean issues over the winter.

I suspect you wouldn't have that issue with the 5.3 stock tune, but as noted by @swathdiver you will need to go with a different valve spring to accommodate the extra lift.

With my current setup, I also installed a new converter it's a little looser than the stock, but not by much.

Low rpm cruising =
I pretty much idle everywhere.

Much of that may be due to the displacement change, but I did gain a few miles per gallon going up the canyon to visit some family.
Never needed to downshift, where before I was downshifting often with the 5.3 setup.

So, my experience isn't a perfect match, but I will warn you about that small camshaft in the 5.3.

I nearly ran the small camshaft in the 6.0, but then someone on here warned me about it, so I went with the larger camshaft and never looked back.

I'll also note that it might be a good idea to do your valve seals while the heads are off.
While you have the springs off, maybe a good time to upgrade to a nice behive spring to open the options up.
It would be a good idea to do some re-seating of the valves to make sure it idles perfectly (while you're in there and stuff).

Or drop the heads off with your local machine shop and have them do the work, new seals, re-seat, general look over the heads, and maybe a valve spring upgrade.

Or just take the easy way out and get a nice "Stock" like camshaft, just think twice about that tiny turd.

I just picked my heads up from the machine shop today. I think I might have gotten ripped off. He disassembled both heads, replaced valve seals, cleaned up the valves and re installed the stock springs. He also resurfaced the bottoms and cleaned them all up. And he also removed two broken exhaust manifold bolts. $475 for all that. Did I get ripped? As far as the cam I'm committed to it. As I said I drive very mild so I doubt I notice the power loss but I will report back after I drive and give an honest answer. I just want the thing to move, be reliable and maybe a few runs from N.J. to Fla if it seems good after I get it back together.

 

[Geotrash]

I just picked my heads up from the machine shop today. I think I might have gotten ripped off. He disassembled both heads, replaced valve seals, cleaned up the valves and re installed the stock springs. He also resurfaced the bottoms and cleaned them all up. And he also removed two broken exhaust manifold bolts. $475 for all that. Did I get ripped? As far as the cam I'm committed to it. As I said I drive very mild so I doubt I notice the power loss but I will report back after I drive and give an honest answer. I just want the thing to move, be reliable and maybe a few runs from N.J. to Fla if it seems good after I get it back together.

That seems a reasonable price to me. He likely spent a couple of hours on each head, plus the seals, so that works out to a typical specialty shop labor rate these days.

 

[solli5pack]

That seems a reasonable price to me. He likely spent a couple of hours on each head, plus the seals, so that works out to a typical specialty shop labor rate these days.

Ok. Thanks. I wasn't sure so figured I'd ask. I might need to reuse him when I start digging into my Yukon's misfire.

 

[solli5pack]

Hey all. Quick harmonic balancer removal question. I'm removing the balancer tomorrow and plan on using the shaved down stock bolt with the Chrysler removal tool method. So if I shave down the stock bolt then I won't be able to use it to put the balancer back on. I'm replacing the stock bolt with an ARP bolt so when re installing the balancer can I just do it with the new bolt and tourqe it down? Also I do not have and impact gun and was hoping to put it back on with brute force. I'm also completely terrified of somehow stripping out the crankshaft threads.

 

[j91z28d1]

I've only done one ls and it wasn't the truck but I think it's the same?

what is the shave the bolt thing?

I just got the puller and installer off Amazon. I believe the puller is the Chrysler one. the installer was a cheap Amazon one just basically some all thread, a nut and washer lol. but it worked perfectly. if I remember right one was 20$ and the other 10? with next day shipping? something like that.

not having a tq wrench to hit arp spec is why I went oem bolt, plus super cheap. it just tightens by degrees and very long breaker bar. don't worry about stripping the bolt, I had 4ft bar on it and all I had to get it to the factory spec. it's proper tight. I'm guessing the arp is even better.

 

[j91z28d1]

oh yeah, being automatic, you'll need a fly wheel holder if you don't impact it. mine was manual so the 6th gear and e brake held. they sell a thing that bolts in place of the starter to lock the engine so you can tighten the bolt.

might be another way thou.

 

[solli5pack]

I've only done one ls and it wasn't the truck but I think it's the same?

what is the shave the bolt thing?

I just got the puller and installer off Amazon. I believe the puller is the Chrysler one. the installer was a cheap Amazon one just basically some all thread, a nut and washer lol. but it worked perfectly. if I remember right one was 20$ and the other 10? with next day shipping? something like that.

not having a tq wrench to hit arp spec is why I went oem bolt, plus super cheap. it just tightens by degrees and very long breaker bar. don't worry about stripping the bolt, I had 4ft bar on it and all I had to get it to the factory spec. it's proper tight. I'm guessing the arp is even better.

Here's a video about the shaved bolt thing. I tried it today and it worked great.

The rods that come with the Chrysler puller that I rented from Autozone aren't long enough to get the balancer all the way off. I'm going to look into the installers tonight. Working on the oil pump now and gonna drop the oil pan to get some fresh RTV on the corners. Then onto the cam. Im almost at the point of starting to put parts back on instead of taking them off!!

 

[j91z28d1]

ahh I don't remember that being an issue but cool that it works.

 

[solli5pack]

Oil pan and oil pump is off. There was a lot of coolant in the oil so the motor is all sludged up. Finally took out the lifter trays and the AFM lifters actually look pretty good. No real wear marks at all. For some reason the regular lifters don't want to come out so gotta deal with that tomorrow. Maybe they'll pop out when I pull the cam? My driveway is officially ruined.

 

[iamdub]

Oil pan and oil pump is off. There was a lot of coolant in the oil so the motor is all sludged up. Finally took out the lifter trays and the AFM lifters actually look pretty good. No real wear marks at all. For some reason the regular lifters don't want to come out so gotta deal with that tomorrow. Maybe they'll pop out when I pull the cam? My driveway is officially ruined.

Spin the cam a couple times to push the lifters up. Don't remove the cam with the lifters in place. The cam being out can allow them to fall down/into the engine. Not really a problem with the oil pan removed, but they can still fall in places you'll have to fight to reach. Due to the tight tolerances and possible friction from water-thinned oil, they can be tight. They need to be pulled nearly perfectly straight out. I've always been able to slip 'em out by biting them with Channellocks and slightly wiggling and twisting while lightly pulling. You can try spraying a penetrating lube all around them and letting that seep in. Clean the lifter bores to pass a white glove (or paper towel) test before you slide the new lifters in. Be sure to soak 'em in fresh oil.

 

[j91z28d1]

they do sell a puller for those but like said they should just pull up.

OEMTools 25048 OEM Automotive Tools Hydraulic Lifter Removal Tools | Summit Racing

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I did see a clip one time where the roller pin came out and it hit the block and wouldn't pull out. had to come out the bottom but I doubt you have that. it's not very common

 

[solli5pack]

Can someone let me know if the camshaft phaser bolt is reusable? Getting conflicting info online. Also what's the tourqe? Thanks.

 

[iamdub]

It being more than just a bolt and being a TTY design, I'd replace it if even for the peace of mind. The labor in accessing it far exceed its ~$70 cost.