2009 Yukon Denali 6.2 L9H Engine Replacement

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KraftMatic87

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Tonyrodz

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Here's a little more carnage. My 03 6.0 dropped a valve. Was running literally for 10 seconds.
 

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KraftMatic87

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Here's a little more carnage. My 03 6.0 dropped a valve. Was running literally for 10 seconds.

How many miles were on yours when it happened? I’m hoping I’m catching this before it’s too late.
 
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It was on a low mileage LQ4 I bought, and the mechanic put my old heads on it--swapped it into my 03--which dropped a valve 10 secs after starting the motor. I think it had less then 100k on it.

Oy vey. I’m keeping positive thoughts in my head right now. Shop opens in an hour going to call and see when I can get it towed over there so they can take a look at it. It’s only 5 miles away so at least the tow is free through AAA lol. Fingers crossed but at least I’m aware of it now and didn’t keep driving it.
 

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View attachment 402079That's what was left after the seat broke. Half of it got wedged in the intake valve, the other half took a trip down to visit the piston.
It looks fine! What do you mean? Just caulk it, add some oil and be on your way. You’ll have her purring like a kitten in no time. Except that kitten might sound more like a tiger shark dropped into a blender. Either way it should buff out no problem. Right?
 

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How many miles were on yours when it happened? I’m hoping I’m catching this before it’s too late.


if it hasn't happened yet its caught before its to late. when it makes a lot of really ugly noise and doesn't run anymore, that's the moment it's 2 late.

you're OK right now, but being you don't know 100% what's wrong.. if you can stop by the shop and talk to them before towing your truck there you might be better off.. I agree with the rest it's probably not bottom end, just valve train related. which you gotta pull the heads to inspect. remember the guys in the ac in the clean shirts are all and I mean all scumbags, that have a life skill of robbing people blind and getting a thank you for doing it. I know many of them.

one of my buddy's I've know for probably 30 years can sell a little old lady a cabin air filter because she brought her car in because the dealer sent her something saying it was time for blah blah blah, for 80$. she will appreciate he did it, all while he knows the car never leaves the driveway and the filter isn't dirty. cabin filters used to be 6-12$. I legitimately couldn't sleep at night doing that to people I know don't have the money. and it's their specialty in life.


if the truck comes in on a wrecker, they think you're not going go thru the hassle to have it towed back out. so they got you.
they can instantly sense if you understand what's wrong with your truck and what he labor is worth. the old saying the target women, it's not that they do as much as they can tell ****** most women don't care. they just know on switch, but they can smell that in guys too. guys just get no sympathy for it.

I will pray for you wallet.

my best guess, and it's only a guess over the internet. I'd walk into the shop, tell them generally what you have, don't be 2 specific, like i got a 09 tahoe with the. 6.2 in it. it's got an top end tap, valve seat failing is pretty common, but so is lifters, what would you charge me to pull the heads and inspect them for me? if it's the valve seats do you use a machine shop you trust local?

watch the guy, if he doesn't really look interested in the work, he probably doesn't have a tech that wants to do that kinda work, or he doesn't want to deal with you and just wants to swap engines. try to get a price and go on to the next one. you'll get a feel for if it's something that shop does, or if they just sling parts.
 

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if it hasn't happened yet its caught before its to late. when it makes a lot of really ugly noise and doesn't run anymore, that's the moment it's 2 late.

my best guess, and it's only a guess over the internet. I'd walk into the shop, tell them generally what you have, don't be 2 specific, like i got a 09 tahoe with the. 6.2 in it. it's got an top end tap, valve seat failing is pretty common, but so is lifters, what would you charge me to pull the heads and inspect them for me? if it's the valve seats do you use a machine shop you trust local?

watch the guy, if he doesn't really look interested in the work, he probably doesn't have a tech that wants to do that kinda work, or he doesn't want to deal with you and just wants to swap engines. try to get a price and go on to the next one. you'll get a feel for if it's something that shop does, or if they just sling parts.
Some good advice here. Since these guys do this thing for a living they can tell from the lingo if a guy knows how to run a wrench or not.
While they may not be able to give you an exact price without looking at it, at least you’ll have a ballpark instead of being shanked in the back stuck with another tow bill if you didn’t want them to work on it.
 
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KraftMatic87

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if it hasn't happened yet its caught before its to late. when it makes a lot of really ugly noise and doesn't run anymore, that's the moment it's 2 late.

you're OK right now, but being you don't know 100% what's wrong.. if you can stop by the shop and talk to them before towing your truck there you might be better off.. I agree with the rest it's probably not bottom end, just valve train related. which you gotta pull the heads to inspect. remember the guys in the ac in the clean shirts are all and I mean all scumbags, that have a life skill of robbing people blind and getting a thank you for doing it. I know many of them.

one of my buddy's I've know for probably 30 years can sell a little old lady a cabin air filter because she brought her car in because the dealer sent her something saying it was time for blah blah blah, for 80$. she will appreciate he did it, all while he knows the car never leaves the driveway and the filter isn't dirty. cabin filters used to be 6-12$. I legitimately couldn't sleep at night doing that to people I know don't have the money. and it's their specialty in life.


if the truck comes in on a wrecker, they think you're not going go thru the hassle to have it towed back out. so they got you.
they can instantly sense if you understand what's wrong with your truck and what he labor is worth. the old saying the target women, it's not that they do as much as they can tell ****** most women don't care. they just know on switch, but they can smell that in guys too. guys just get no sympathy for it.

I will pray for you wallet.

my best guess, and it's only a guess over the internet. I'd walk into the shop, tell them generally what you have, don't be 2 specific, like i got a 09 tahoe with the. 6.2 in it. it's got an top end tap, valve seat failing is pretty common, but so is lifters, what would you charge me to pull the heads and inspect them for me? if it's the valve seats do you use a machine shop you trust local?

watch the guy, if he doesn't really look interested in the work, he probably doesn't have a tech that wants to do that kinda work, or he doesn't want to deal with you and just wants to swap engines. try to get a price and go on to the next one. you'll get a feel for if it's something that shop does, or if they just sling parts.

I found a small independent engine repair shop that’s a few miles from my house:


Gonna see what they recommend and if it’s not reasonable I’ll take it somewhere else. I have a few leads on other shops I can use in my area. I like your strategy about not being too specific and asking about pricing before they pull the heads.

I’ll report back here what I hear from them once they can inspect it and take a look. Thanks everyone for the info and I’m hoping the next time I post I have some clarification on what is going on.
 
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KraftMatic87

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Some good advice here. Since these guys do this thing for a living they can tell from the lingo if a guy knows how to run a wrench or not.
While they may not be able to give you an exact price without looking at it, at least you’ll have a ballpark instead of being shanked in the back stuck with another tow bill if you didn’t want them to work on it.

With AAA my tows are free within 15 miles so at least I don’t have to pay for that. After 15 miles they start charging but there are two other shops I can have it towed to if this one somehow doesn’t pan out. I brought my Subaru to this shop a year ago and they helped us fix an issue with our CVT that saved us having to replace it when other shops told us we needed a new transmission. I have to admit I didn’t realize so many mechanics are just part slingers it seems. Hoping they can help me get this thing back on the road soon.
 

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Unfortunately they even have some of the junior techs trained to sell you parts. The only way some of them will ever make more than minimum wage is by convincing you to buy a part you don’t need. And that is very easy to do when a person doesn’t know any better.
I hope one of these shops pans out for you. In the meantime, you can look up some videos on how to remove and replace the trans cooler lines and the oil cooler lines. Removal is basically just cutting the old ones off after draining the fluid, then let the lines drain as well, remove the mounting hardware and fish the lines out. Wipe everything down, plug the holes so you don’t knock anything in there while fishing the new lines in. And be sure to wrap the ends of your new lines, if they don’t already come with some kind of protective boot/cap.
Brakes you already know how to do, and the other items on your list didn’t seem too extreme. Like you said, just some routine maint that wasn’t completed by the PO.
 
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Unfortunately they even have some of the junior techs trained to sell you parts. The only way some of them will ever make more than minimum wage is by convincing you to buy a part you don’t need. And that is very easy to do when a person doesn’t know any better.
I hope one of these shops pans out for you. In the meantime, you can look up some videos on how to remove and replace the trans cooler lines and the oil cooler lines. Removal is basically just cutting the old ones off after draining the fluid, then let the lines drain as well, remove the mounting hardware and fish the lines out. Wipe everything down, plug the holes so you don’t knock anything in there while fishing the new lines in. And be sure to wrap the ends of your new lines, if they don’t already come with some kind of protective boot/cap.
Brakes you already know how to do, and the other items on your list didn’t seem too extreme. Like you said, just some routine maint that wasn’t completed by the PO.

Yeah I’m pretty sure I can fix the trans / oil cooler lines on my own you’re right that that doesn’t look like too bad of a job. Colorado Performance & Repair is going to look at the truck tomorrow (getting it towed there) and I’ll be there when they pull the heads so I can see what’s going on in there and learn how to do this myself. If I’m paying them I might as well get a first hand lesson!

I also got a quote from a place called Acer Engines in Colorado Springs that said they would pull the motor and do a complete rebuild for $4500. Given what a new crate motor costs to get installed that didn’t sound unreasonable. Just gonna wait to take a look inside and go from there!
 
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tbone911

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I JUST went through this myself on my 2011 Denali. Dealership said they couldn't fix it and only a replacement engine was the answer. BUT... GM doesn't have any 6.2L engines right now due to all the supply chain issues. After much research, I decided to go with a Jasper Reman (www.jasperengines.com). Jasper has affiliate shops who do this work. I used the one near me and it only took them 4 days to swap! A quick search of Jasper's website brings up a handful of installers in the Denver area. Prices are steep but it comes with a 3 year/100K warranty and I was able to get it done through a reputable, licensed shop here in CA. The only hiccup was that the AFM delete valve cover failed after one day so the shop replaced it with a Genuine GM one (no charge). The shop said the internal baffle broke on the aftermarket cover that Jasper uses. I've got about 400 miles on it now after a week so I'm still babying it and will probably let my wife have it back when I get past 500 miles.
 
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I JUST went through this myself on my 2011 Denali. Dealership said they couldn't fix it and only a replacement engine was the answer. BUT... GM doesn't have any 6.2L engines right now due to all the supply chain issues. After much research, I decided to go with a Jasper Reman (www.jasperengines.com). Jasper has affiliate shops who do this work. I used the one near me and it only took them 4 days to swap! A quick search of Jasper's website brings up a handful of installers in the Denver area. Prices are steep but it comes with a 3 year/100K warranty and I was able to get it done through a reputable, licensed shop here in CA. The only hiccup was that the AFM delete valve cover failed after one day so the shop replaced it with a Genuine GM one (no charge). The shop said the internal baffle broke on the aftermarket cover that Jasper uses. I've got about 400 miles on it now after a week so I'm still babying it and will probably let my wife have it back when I get past 500

I'll look into that if I have to, glad it worked out for you! Hoping I can still salvage this motor depending on what it ends up looking like inside. If I got a new motor I would definitely get a new torque converter installed for my 6l80 might as well so I'm not having to worry about the transmission next!
 

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I JUST went through this myself on my 2011 Denali. Dealership said they couldn't fix it and only a replacement engine was the answer. BUT... GM doesn't have any 6.2L engines right now due to all the supply chain issues. After much research, I decided to go with a Jasper Reman (www.jasperengines.com). Jasper has affiliate shops who do this work. I used the one near me and it only took them 4 days to swap! A quick search of Jasper's website brings up a handful of installers in the Denver area. Prices are steep but it comes with a 3 year/100K warranty and I was able to get it done through a reputable, licensed shop here in CA. The only hiccup was that the AFM delete valve cover failed after one day so the shop replaced it with a Genuine GM one (no charge). The shop said the internal baffle broke on the aftermarket cover that Jasper uses. I've got about 400 miles on it now after a week so I'm still babying it and will probably let my wife have it back when I get past 500 miles.
Did they give you a time for break-in? How long before you can drive a certain speed and when to change the oil? That kind of thing.
 

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I'll look into that if I have to, glad it worked out for you! Hoping I can still salvage this motor depending on what it ends up looking like inside. If I got a new motor I would definitely get a new torque converter installed for my 6l80 might as well so I'm not having to worry about the transmission next!

With that many miles…it will be next. That’s where I’m currently at. Looking for a good local tranny shop to do the rebuild.
 
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@KraftMatic87 Did you talk to LT today?

I emailed and reached out to Tolman Performance on Instagram I couldn’t find a phone number though. I did however find another shop 5 miles from my house who said they would look at it tomorrow.


The owner of the shop seemed eager to help, and said I could come watch them take the heads off so and look around inside the engine with them so I can see first hand what’s going on inside the block.

If you have a number for LT let me know I would have to figure out a tow to get it down to Colorado Springs which is about an hour and half drive for me. LT might be a good back up if this shop doesn’t pan out.
 

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I emailed and reached out to Tolman Performance on Instagram I couldn’t find a phone number though. I did however find another shop 5 miles from my house who said they would look at it tomorrow.


The owner of the shop seemed eager to help, and said I could come watch them take the heads off so and look around inside the engine with them so I can see first hand what’s going on inside the block.

If you have a number for LT let me know I would have to figure out a tow to get it down to Colorado Springs which is about an hour and half drive for me. LT might be a good back up if this shop doesn’t pan out.
I just talked to LT and he said to give him a call - 719-632-2167.
 

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