What did you do to your OBS GMT400 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[j91z28d1]

I just checked my box of parts from replacing the bad ones so many times I left the stuff to do it together in a box lol. I did use the pin clip on the top one, forgot it comes in from the bottom so gravity might not hold that in. checked for play, both doors are still tight. so the ones I linked to are good. just missing the springs and stuff. others could be good too.

so pic of the spring toolwith part number on the top right.

the bolts from right to left, 3/8x2in 5/16x2 1/4x2. and then the shorter ones are 3/8x1.25in and 5/16x1. 25. a washer for each and a 3/8 and 5/16 nut. the 1/4in drive 9/16 socket is my spacer under the bushing so it doesn't bottom out before pressing all the way in.

if you've got a 1/4in cordless ratchet it makes it way faster and easier. but do able with a small ratchet too.

 

[east302]

And I'm not sure what all has to be done. One shop told me you have tyo get into the kick panel and disconnect all of the wiring to completely remove the door away from the vehicle to get room to work.

The first time I did it, I left the door on.

The second time, I popped the kick panel off and disconnected the wires there. Maybe there was a straggler behind the door panel, but I don’t remember for sure. Pull the rubber boot back from the A-pillar and that’s about it.

I’d pull the door again as it beat the hell out of holding that door on a jack. It does give you a lot more room to work in with that door off.

 

[Mean_Green]

I will NOT be holding the door balanced on a jack. If I try to do this, the door will be in a wooden frame of some kind suspended from over head with a hoist, maybe with an engine crane or some similar rigging. I will need whatever holds it to be stable.

I get the bit of using bolts, nuts and washers as a press, but not really getting using them as substitute pins. I don't see how that would allow enough room to work.

 

[j91z28d1]

well the way I did it you'd need a very elaborate fixture to hold the door because it needs to be moved up and down a lot to get you room for doing the other one.

so you hold the door level but weight supported at the rear, tap the top pin out, at that point the door will move right and left without the pin. so the exact bolt goes thru the top pin hole but not the bottom, and it's thinner than the pin, so now the door and move all around and that bolt will hold it from falling off. so you'd then remove the bottom pin, jack the door up, and will Pivot on the top hinge with your temp bolt holding it from falling off. that gives you access to work on the bottom bushings. just watch the door doesn't hit the fender as nothing it keeping the bottom from moving left and right but balance. that's why I put a rag in the crack so they don't touch.

to do the top, it's just reversed, put a temp bolt in the bottom hinge, take top temp bolt out. lower door, to get room to get to the top bushings. just don't go to high and damage the bottom bushing you just replaced

if you got the stuff I guess you could pull the door off. sounds like a hassle. I did them 3 times in the parking lot at work by myself.

once you're done and the hinge is tight, no up and down play, if the door still doesn't line up with the roof line perfect, mine didn't. it was low from years of needing fixed. this is the tool I found that worked well to adjust the doors up. you need a socket and a long breaker bar for leverage, but it's small and fits in my tool box. the big ones the auto body shops use with built in handles are a bit much to store for me.

 

[Sam Harris]

I thought I remembered someone talking about difficult to locate blue interior seats, etc.. for the OBS..?

Anyway, just ran across this on FB Marketplace. Not sure if that would help anyone, and also how far away from y’all.

 

[97YukonNZ]

Hi
I broke a door handle off 1 morning a wee while ago.
A GM replacement is $159.00 from Rock Auto delivered to me here in N.Z. Better to go with genuine? As I see some of the other makes are considerably cheaper.

Just in the process of stripping the panel off to have a look to see if there is some adjustment that can be made as I think it only snapped because it was not pulling the ratchet properly.

 

[97YukonNZ]

Pretty tidy in here!

 

[97YukonNZ]

View attachment 399878Pretty tidy in here!

Okay so after looking at that I decided that it looks like a pita!
So I have improvised using a safety hitch for a trailer safety chain.
Known as a Bundy job or Bundying it!

Follow me for more handy tips on fixing ur Rig

 

[Mean_Green]

I have the driver side roller pin out. Not much of a job to do that. Just a bit of grinding and driving a pin with a hammer. No need to remove door. Will probably go ahead and drop the passenger side also. Getting the new ones in again might be different.

Reading some of the bit on replacements. Folks say the Dormans and other offbrands are slightly oversized and need to be ground down a bit. Doesn't sound right. They're only $15 or less each though where the GMs are $50 or so each. But the GMs don't have a way to retain them in place and I'm not looking at swaging them down again, or tack welding them. The offbrands at least have a groove and circlip.

 

[exp500]

Mean_Green​

Usually it is the bushing that is oversized, not the pin. That way hole can be round again.

 

[Mean_Green]

I'm talking about the roller pins. The apparent issue is with the shoulder not being beveled the same, making it harder to get in place. For me, the end retainer clip would be better. No retainer on the GM. Saw one comment somewhere about tack welding it, but with my luck I'd toast the BCM or some other electronic device, even if I disconnected the battery.

 

[east302]

For the door detent roller pins, yes the Dorman products require grinding down on the tapered part to fit.

To me, that means that the part is incorrect for the truck but others seem to have made them work. I used the GM pins and they fit without issue or swearing. But, they do require a means of keeping the pin from sliding down.

 

[the 18th letter]

Just got my sag fixed with the Cunninhgam hinge pin bushings, let's hope this is the 3rd and last time I get it done. Trunk latch repaired as well. Only 2 things I need now are the screws (anybody know of a replacement) for my hatch trim, I put them someplace that made sense at the time but can't locate them now, and to get used to not slamming my door

 

[Mean_Green]

Door hinge bushings?

 

[the 18th letter]

Door hinge bushings?

Yes sir. Someone on the board recommended them since they're made of brass and are said to be more durable.

 

[Mean_Green]

Yes sir. Someone on the board recommended them since they're made of brass and are said to be more durable.

Hmmm, this guy says he had trouble with the bronze looking ones, so ....

if you do do pins, don't do the bronze looking auto parts store bushings. I went thru about 3 sets of those. they just aren't right. there's a kit on Amazon with a harder gray bushing that has listed me a few years now and still going

XtremeAmazing Door Hinge Pins Kit 1988 2002 2 Door 4Pins Bushing Kit for 88-02 Chevy GMC GM Fullsize Truck SUV https://a.co/d/cJxmBuR

Yeah, bronze isn't brass I guess, but brass is pretty soft.

 

[the 18th letter]

Hmmm, this guy says he had trouble with the bronze looking ones, so ....



Yeah, bronze isn't brass I guess, but brass is pretty soft.

yes, bronze. Just checked the site to confirm. It didn't take the shop long so I guess it was simple enough for them.

Heavy Duty Chevrolet/GMC Truck 1999-2007 (Classic) NBS Bronze Door Bushings - Cunningham Machine

Heavy Duty door bushings for the 99-07 (classic) Chevrolet/GMC trucks. Made from very high quality self lubricating bronze. Great fix for sagging doors.

www.cunninghammachine.com

 

[j91z28d1]

I didn't see replies till now.

I've welded on 100s of cars without hurting them, just take the battery cables off. no complete circuit, not fry lol.

I've not done my rollers. so no clue on those.
let use know how the brass hold up. the Dorman ones I was calling bronze is just the color to me. could well be something else. whatever it is it breaks apart in a few months of use. these others were a darker sliver color and got good reviews on Amazon. if yours are actually brass, like brass fittings are made of. it should be way better than the Dorman stuff.


the door handles, mine broke off years ago. like 15 years ago haha. replaced it with something cheap off ebay and been good ever since.

 

[Mean_Green]

It didn't take the shop long so I guess it was simple enough for them.

What did this shop charge? Everybody around here wants $250 per door including parts which is why I'm looking at doing it myself.

 

[Mean_Green]

Gotta say, I like these bolt in roller pins though.

Heavy Duty Chevrolet/GMC 88-98 Truck Door Pin Rollers - Cunningham Machine

Designed to replace those bent or broken roller pins that have seized up over the years. A direct replacement for the original rollers.

www.cunninghammachine.com

I may cancel my AMZ order and go for these at least.