What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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iamdub

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Took it to get groceries and noted the calculated alcohol content was holding steady at 3%. Will compare to the test tube results and upload the adjusted tune later, possibly tomorrow. But work looks to be building up on me so it might not happen so soon.

I also noted while driving home that my electrical system needs help. Every time the bass hits, even at moderate volume levels, the headlights dim very noticeably. I know my battery is tired. It's been there for 5.25 years and I haven't been so easy on it for the last half of that. So, that will get replaced but I'm also considering an upgraded alternator. Nothing crazy and nothing that'll put undue load on the engine. I wanna keep the RVC functional. I have the DR44 alternator which is rated at 145A. But, it's 222,000+ miles old so it has to be tired as well. I think an extra ~100 amps would be fine.

I'm gonna research, but can y'all suggest a good 250A plug-and-play alternator that will retain the RVC function?
 

Doubeleive

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Mine gets twice the MPGs from 100+ as it does from 70-99. :shrug:

slurp.gif
 

mikez71

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I'm gonna research, but can y'all suggest a good 250A plug-and-play alternator that will retain the RVC function?
Let us know! I thought someone mentioned 07-20 use same alternator format.. And I thought someone mentioned there being a ~250A factory alt.. (maybe in a 2500 or something)

I just purchased a new factory 160A unit because my old alternator's bearings are going.. Thought I was upgrading, but it looks like my stocker was 160A.. I may not need the extra juice (some lights, air compressor, washer heater and maybe a 2000W power inverter someday..) better too much than not enough!?

I'm still confused how RVC works with dual batteries...
 

Sparksalot

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Took it to get groceries and noted the calculated alcohol content was holding steady at 3%. Will compare to the test tube results and upload the adjusted tune later, possibly tomorrow. But work looks to be building up on me so it might not happen so soon.

I also noted while driving home that my electrical system needs help. Every time the bass hits, even at moderate volume levels, the headlights dim very noticeably. I know my battery is tired. It's been there for 5.25 years and I haven't been so easy on it for the last half of that. So, that will get replaced but I'm also considering an upgraded alternator. Nothing crazy and nothing that'll put undue load on the engine. I wanna keep the RVC functional. I have the DR44 alternator which is rated at 145A. But, it's 222,000+ miles old so it has to be tired as well. I think an extra ~100 amps would be fine.

I'm gonna research, but can y'all suggest a good 250A plug-and-play alternator that will retain the RVC function?
RVC?
 

Doubeleive

Wes
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Let us know! I thought someone mentioned 07-20 use same alternator format.. And I thought someone mentioned there being a ~250A factory alt.. (maybe in a 2500 or something)

I just purchased a new factory 160A unit because my old alternator's bearings are going.. Thought I was upgrading, but it looks like my stocker was 160A.. I may not need the extra juice (some lights, air compressor, washer heater and maybe a 2000W power inverter someday..) better too much than not enough!?

I'm still confused how RVC works with dual batteries...
there is a 220amp oem one out there option KW5, just be sure it has the standard pulley and not the clutch pulley (the clutch pulley ones have a nose on the end of the pulley)
this one looks pretty clean presuming it is the one you actually get
 

Sparksalot

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Let us know! I thought someone mentioned 07-20 use same alternator format.. And I thought someone mentioned there being a ~250A factory alt.. (maybe in a 2500 or something)

I just purchased a new factory 160A unit because my old alternator's bearings are going.. Thought I was upgrading, but it looks like my stocker was 160A.. I may not need the extra juice (some lights, air compressor, washer heater and maybe a 2000W power inverter someday..) better too much than not enough!?

I'm still confused how RVC works with dual batteries...
Since they’re in parallel, it just sees one big battery.
 
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Took it to get groceries and noted the calculated alcohol content was holding steady at 3%. Will compare to the test tube results and upload the adjusted tune later, possibly tomorrow. But work looks to be building up on me so it might not happen so soon.

I also noted while driving home that my electrical system needs help. Every time the bass hits, even at moderate volume levels, the headlights dim very noticeably. I know my battery is tired. It's been there for 5.25 years and I haven't been so easy on it for the last half of that. So, that will get replaced but I'm also considering an upgraded alternator. Nothing crazy and nothing that'll put undue load on the engine. I wanna keep the RVC functional. I have the DR44 alternator which is rated at 145A. But, it's 222,000+ miles old so it has to be tired as well. I think an extra ~100 amps would be fine.

I'm gonna research, but can y'all suggest a good 250A plug-and-play alternator that will retain the RVC function?
Run a cap on the power line going to the amp
 

iamdub

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Let us know! I thought someone mentioned 07-20 use same alternator format.. And I thought someone mentioned there being a ~250A factory alt.. (maybe in a 2500 or something)

I just purchased a new factory 160A unit because my old alternator's bearings are going.. Thought I was upgrading, but it looks like my stocker was 160A.. I may not need the extra juice (some lights, air compressor, washer heater and maybe a 2000W power inverter someday..) better too much than not enough!?

I'm still confused how RVC works with dual batteries...


Of course, the first one I looked into was the various offerings from MechMan. Their basic, entry level ("Elite" series) alternator is exactly what I outlined- 250A (with 180 at idle), stock pulley (so no excessive alternator speed when engine is at 6,000+ RPM), plug-and-play and retains RVC. I can't speak for the '07-'20 using the same. MechMan has different part numbers for the '05-'13 and '14-'21 for the same spec of alternator. I also looked at JS Alternator's "Hairpin" units which look to be comparable in specs, but $90 cheaper. They use a smaller (overdrive) pulley on their alternators. So, getting a smaller belt to replace the one I haven't had for very long would eat up half of those savings. That and overdriving the alt pretty much turns me away. MechMan rates their output at 1,800 RPM engine speed and lists the output at idle.

To a point, "too much" is better than not enough. Like a battery, the alternator isn't gonna "push" more amperage into the devices and systems it is powering. It'll just have the capacity to maintain 12+ volts when loaded down by those devices and systems. The threshold is how they get the extra power. You can only do so much with upgrading the alternator's components. Beyond that, they gotta speed up the alternator and that incurs extra loads on the engine and the alternator's bearings, etc. Not to mention requiring a different size of belt. Some places jump straight to a smaller pulley before other, better modifications. Ideally, you wanna get all the amperage you need from a stock-sized alt and pulley so you can use a stock belt.

If I'm not mistaken, the extra battery is just paralleled off the other one. So, you could look at it as if it's one big battery. The RVC activates by monitoring the amperage on the ground cable and system voltage and adjusting the alternator's output accordingly. With twice the battery capacity, the amperage and voltage would be more stable under higher loads. So, the RVC would just not have the alternator charging as often compared to a like-equipped Tahoe with a single battery.

*EDIT* I see @Sparksalot filled you in as I was typing up my novel.
 

iamdub

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Run a cap on the power line going to the amp

I'm not a fan of caps. At least, not at this stage. I think they're a [feeble] last resort after you've done everything else. I have a weak battery and an aged alternator. Getting the charging system fully up to ŝnuff is the first step. Besides, you can't properly charge a capacitor with a weak supply, ya know? Also, I listen to music that has fast beats and long, drawn-out bass rather than one single "kick" every few seconds or minutes. So, a cap wouldn't do much for me cuz it'd rarely recharge. With my very modest sound system, I think fixing what's broken will be sufficient. I really don't have the space for extra components, anyway.
 
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iamdub

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there is a 220amp oem one out there option KW5, just be sure it has the standard pulley and not the clutch pulley (the clutch pulley ones have a nose on the end of the pulley)
this one looks pretty clean presuming it is the one you actually get

Well, I'll be damned! I'm sure you wouldn't have suggested it otherwise, but it is a direct bolt-on and does it have the same plug for the RVC as my antique '08?
 

Doubeleive

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Well, I'll be damned! I'm sure you wouldn't have suggested it otherwise, but it is a direct bolt-on and does it have the same plug for the RVC as my antique '08?
yep, 05-20, just gotta check for the pulley they come in both standard and clutch pulley which is only used on the 15+ actually not sure what year they started the change, uses a different belt.
the KW5 option is designed for the 15+ 2500/3500 6.0l because they often are used with accessory equipment so they made them higher output, they have the 12 pressed diodes just like mechman uses, they look pretty similar side by side with the mechman.
 
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iamdub

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yep, 05-20, just gotta check for the pulley they come in both standard and clutch pulley which is only used on the 15+ actually not sure what year they started the change, uses a different belt.
the KW5 option is designed for the 15+ 2500/3500 6.0l because they often are used with accessory equipment so they made them higher output, they have the 12 pressed diodes just like mechman uses, they look pretty similar side by side with the mechman.

Someone bought that one just minutes after you posted the link. Oh well, there are more. Most with pics of the alt have the cutch crap and most listings for the KW5 just show the wrecked truck and nothing about the alt. Could I remove the clutch and swap on a regular pulley, maybe even the pulley from my current alt.?
 

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