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donjetman

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Safe to assume that 26MpG, is withOUT Lean Cruise enabled?
True
I'd love to give "lean cruise" a try. Never say never, but I'm a DIYer and don't have the skills/tools/time. Also, there's a lot of big hills, mountains and elevation change between TX & CO that might put a monkey wrench in a lean cruise tune?

I just received about $1,000 of front end parts for the Denali. Also got a new (smooth) valley cover, and oil pressure sender. Those are my next Denali projects.
 

Sam Harris

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I'd love to give "lean cruise" a try. Never say never, but I'm a DIYer and don't have the skills/tools/time. Also, there's a lot of big hills, mountains and elevation change between TX & CO that might put a monkey wrench in a lean cruise tune?

I just received about $1,000 of front end parts for the Denali. Also got a new (smooth) valley cover, and oil pressure sender. Those are my next Denali projects.
No knock sensors..?
 

Marky Dissod

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I'd love to give "lean cruise" a try. Never say never, but I'm a DIYer and don't have the skills / tools / time.
Also, there's a lot of big hills, mountains and elevation change between TX & CO that might put a monkey wrench in a lean cruise tune?
Many of us lack the time to do many of the things that others routinely handle over the course of any given day.
Some of us make our own coffee, some of us wrench on our cars, but it's totally ok to let others handle stuff like, say, pcm / ecm & tcm tuning. Most of us don't do our own dry cleaning, right?

To oversimplify down to a gist, whether a pcm can Lean Cruise or not, it simply canNOT enable much less activate unless the engine is, well, pretty much cruising. For example:
if towing, might only activate during decels, maybe? Unless the towed object has outlandishly low drag?
if accelerating BARELY enough for Miss Daisy to notice, it might only activate or stay active downhill?
if cruising in 4th, it MAY activate, and/or stay active, if you drive like you want / need OVER 18MpG.

Meaning, only got 22MpG once, nearly pulled my hair out 'cause I had to let nearly EVERYONE pass me.
I'd be able to spend LOTS more time in Lean Cruise with 4.10, or with 3.73 & 235/60R18, and drive more normally.
How I normally drive I NEVER see it - I have to consciously chill the hell out.

Lean Cruise is FAR more likely to be FAR more useful with lighter cars with less drag area.
The criteria are slightly tougher for a driver to stay in than V4 mode.
More gearing helps too, up to a point.

You never need to worry about it though. The redundant safeties make it far safer than V4 mode, is my point.
It just won't activate or stay active unless you are driving very gentle-like.
 

donjetman

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Many of us lack the time to do many of the things that others routinely handle over the course of any given day.
Some of us make our own coffee, some of us wrench on our cars, but it's totally ok to let others handle stuff like, say, pcm / ecm & tcm tuning. Most of us don't do our own dry cleaning, right?

To oversimplify down to a gist, whether a pcm can Lean Cruise or not, it simply canNOT enable much less activate unless the engine is, well, pretty much cruising. For example:
if towing, might only activate during decels, maybe? Unless the towed object has outlandishly low drag?
if accelerating BARELY enough for Miss Daisy to notice, it might only activate or stay active downhill?
if cruising in 4th, it MAY activate, and/or stay active, if you drive like you want / need OVER 18MpG.

Meaning, only got 22MpG once, nearly pulled my hair out 'cause I had to let nearly EVERYONE pass me.
I'd be able to spend LOTS more time in Lean Cruise with 4.10, or with 3.73 & 235/60R18, and drive more normally.
How I normally drive I NEVER see it - I have to consciously chill the hell out.

Lean Cruise is FAR more likely to be FAR more useful with lighter cars with less drag area.
The criteria are slightly tougher for a driver to stay in than V4 mode.
More gearing helps too, up to a point.

You never need to worry about it though. The redundant safeties make it far safer than V4 mode, is my point.
It just won't activate or stay active unless you are driving very gentle-like.
You may have missed it?
Lean cruise (lean burn tuning) was directed at my C5 Corvette that is light and and slicker than owl $hit. I posted a thread here on the subject last Dec.: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/lean-burn-tuning.138636/
 

Marky Dissod

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You may have missed it?
Lean cruise (lean burn tuning) was directed at my C5 Corvette that is light and and slicker than owl $hit. I posted a thread here on the subject last Dec.: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/lean-burn-tuning.138636/
Not sure if the 'vette in that video is using GM's Lean Cruise.
Think it's using a personally customized Open Loop tune that (actually) gets better results than Lean Cruise.

Is the 'vette in the video yours?
 
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swathdiver

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No knock sensors..?
900 knock sensors are on the side of the heads, not in the valley cover. We rarely change them out like you guys do.
Is paint work included, or is that just for the dent?
Just the dent. Another $100 for the bent hood to fix and another for a dent just below the side glass in the quarter panel.

He quoted for a paint correction and ceramic coating but will have to ask again for the details and decide whether or not it'll be worth it since we're planning to have the truck painted in a few years.
 

Tonyrodz

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900 knock sensors are on the side of the heads, not in the valley cover. We rarely change them out like you guys do.

Just the dent. Another $100 for the bent hood to fix and another for a dent just below the side glass in the quarter panel.

He quoted for a paint correction and ceramic coating but will have to ask again for the details and decide whether or not it'll be worth it since we're planning to have the truck painted in a few years.
Seems a little pricey to me but if he's really good and if the repair looks invisible then it'll be worth it.
 
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swathdiver

swathdiver

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Seems a little pricey to me but if he's really good and if the repair looks invisible then it'll be worth it.
This is the guy: https://bonesdentrepair.com/

Besides the metal repair, he's going to replace a the bracket that the cover bolts to which was broken, R&R the headlight and air cleaner, fix the plastic on the bumper cover in 3 or 4 places. I think he's charging $100 an inch or something like that.

What do you think?
 

Sam Harris

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900 knock sensors are on the side of the heads, not in the valley cover. We rarely change them out like you guys do.

Just the dent. Another $100 for the bent hood to fix and another for a dent just below the side glass in the quarter panel.

He quoted for a paint correction and ceramic coating but will have to ask again for the details and decide whether or not it'll be worth it since we're planning to have the truck painted in a few years.
Yeah, after I said that, I figured he was referring to a GMT900, and.. I’m an idiot. Lol.
 

Tonyrodz

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This is the guy: https://bonesdentrepair.com/

Besides the metal repair, he's going to replace a the bracket that the cover bolts to which was broken, R&R the headlight and air cleaner, fix the plastic on the bumper cover in 3 or 4 places. I think he's charging $100 an inch or something like that.

What do you think?
Not sure about the price per inch. All the pdr guys I knew charged by the panel--per fender, 1/4 panel etc. Each guy had his limit of dents per panel, so everyone's price was slightly different. If you feel comfortable with the price, that's all that matters. Hopefully he'll do a good job for you.
 
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swathdiver

swathdiver

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As mentioned previously, the truck got bumped into and the RF fender/bumper area suffered some damage. Revisited my hunt for PDR guys in the area and picked two who showed the best work and settled on one to do the job. He didn't disappoint:
20230308_153758.jpg20230403_162116.jpg

Like it never even happened!

The hood got dented on the same side when I left the transmission dip stick up under the cowl and we shut the hood for the night. The plastic dip stick was fine but the hood was raised about 1/2 an inch and Bones the PDR guy fixed that too.

When we got the truck it had this hand print under the left side quarter glass and he fixed that too:

20200609 - 01.JPG20230403_162026.jpg

Will have him fix the LF fender dents when he does the ceramic coating in a few months.

Just as we were leaving, a piece of wire was seen protruding from the tread of the LR tire. I tucked it between the tread blocks and drove home. Pulled it out with the Leatherman and poured soapy water over it, bubbles. Darn! Went to the local St. Lucie Battery & Tire and they could not find the leak. I had previously marked the area with a China marker so they wouldn't be looking all over and showed them the photos I took of it to no avail. The wire went into the side of the tread block, not straight down. I'll keep an eye on it.

20230403_185325.jpg

Well, that's all for now. Life happens and the 9.5" axle project keeps getting pushed aside for this reason and that one, all mostly good ones. I did buy the tools to properly change the u-joints in both drive shafts, the J-9522-3 and -5. Still need the arbor press or hydraulic press.
 

Tonyrodz

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As mentioned previously, the truck got bumped into and the RF fender/bumper area suffered some damage. Revisited my hunt for PDR guys in the area and picked two who showed the best work and settled on one to do the job. He didn't disappoint:
View attachment 396056View attachment 396057

Like it never even happened!

The hood got dented on the same side when I left the transmission dip stick up under the cowl and we shut the hood for the night. The plastic dip stick was fine but the hood was raised about 1/2 an inch and Bones the PDR guy fixed that too.

When we got the truck it had this hand print under the left side quarter glass and he fixed that too:

View attachment 396059View attachment 396060

Will have him fix the LF fender dents when he does the ceramic coating in a few months.

Just as we were leaving, a piece of wire was seen protruding from the tread of the LR tire. I tucked it between the tread blocks and drove home. Pulled it out with the Leatherman and poured soapy water over it, bubbles. Darn! Went to the local St. Lucie Battery & Tire and they could not find the leak. I had previously marked the area with a China marker so they wouldn't be looking all over and showed them the photos I took of it to no avail. The wire went into the side of the tread block, not straight down. I'll keep an eye on it.

View attachment 396063

Well, that's all for now. Life happens and the 9.5" axle project keeps getting pushed aside for this reason and that one, all mostly good ones. I did buy the tools to properly change the u-joints in both drive shafts, the J-9522-3 and -5. Still need the arbor press or hydraulic press.
PDR guy did a great job.
 

Geotrash

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Amazing repair work! Bummer on the tire though. So far, I've never had anything get through a Michelin LTX. First I've seen anything like that with one. :-(
 
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swathdiver

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Amazing repair work! Bummer on the tire though. So far, I've never had anything get through a Michelin LTX. First I've seen anything like that with one. :-(
Well, as of yesterday it doesn't appear to have lost any air. Guess I'm crazy but man there were bubbles coming out of the hole, even have photographic proof! LOL
 

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