What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[gooffeyguy]

A note to you guys when using that valve core removal tool.....

Just remember the system is under pressure and it will want to push that plunger outward once the core is unscrewed. Same goes when seating a new core, you will have to put some forward pressure on it while getting it threaded in. This is especially true when doing the high side core.

 

[randeez]

A note to you guys when using that valve core removal tool.....

Just remember the system is under pressure and it will want to push that plunger outward once the core is unscrewed. Same goes when seating a new core, you will have to put some forward pressure on it while getting it threaded in. This is especially true when doing the high side core.

without the compressor running they should have the same pressure

jus givin ya a hard time, but yea without the compressor running both will have about the same after it sits a while 70-80psi depending on ambient temp. more than the low side would having running but def dont try replacing with the system running

 

[iamdub]

Drove it to the mall for a dad/daughter date night. Got a full tank of E85 along the way. Scanner settled at 60% alcohol content. I'll manually test it later.

 

[NotJLB]

So it arrived a half an hour ago and it was a total fail. I couldn’t get the quick connect fitting to stay seated on the port nipple. It kept popping off even when I had the core remover fully retracted. And yes, I was using the correct red one for the high pressure port. Super frustrating. Glad I didn’t cancel my appointment for Monday.

Ouch. Did you make a video? It would be a good one.

I hope mine works better (when it gets here).

 

[gooffeyguy]

Since I got the new wheels and tires installed I've noticed two to three times when I am backing out of a spot at work and start to pull forward there would be a pop on the right side. I chalked it up to some of them black walnut shells around on the ground near where I park. It finally happened when I was backing out of a space other than work so I was hoping it wasn't the new ball joint going bad. Realized yesterday that the tire tread comes really close to the mudflap when turned all the way to the right. The Husky mudflap isn't flat and has a curve to it and the edge has a small lip sticking towards the tire. The mudflap hangs down and the mounting screws are higher up, so I may have to try heating it up with a heat gun and try to get it to not curve forward as much.

EDIT: after looking at it, I could probably just trim a bit of that lip at the inside bottom

 

[Charlie207]

Replaced whatever door trim piece this is called (aux. lower something). I have no idea how this was damaged, but it was like that when I bought the truck so I figured it was time to replace it.

 

[Charlie207]

Since I got the new wheels and tires installed I've noticed two to three times when I am backing out of a spot at work and start to pull forward there would be a pop on the right side. I chalked it up to some of them black walnut shells around on the ground near where I park. It finally happened when I was backing out of a space other than work so I was hoping it wasn't the new ball joint going bad. Realized yesterday that the tire tread comes really close to the mudflap when turned all the way to the right. The Husky mudflap isn't flat and has a curve to it and the edge has a small lip sticking towards the tire. The mudflap hangs down and the mounting screws are higher up, so I may have to try heating it up with a heat gun and try to get it to not curve forward as much.

EDIT: after looking at it, I could probably just trim a bit of that lip at the inside bottom

View attachment 390739

I cut the corners of my Husky mudflaps. Way easier than trying to heat/massage them into a new shape.

 

[Odii]

Replaced whatever door trim piece this is called (aux. lower something). I have no idea how this was damaged, but it was like that when I bought the truck so I figured it was time to replace it.

View attachment 390792
View attachment 390793
View attachment 390794

do you happen to know what size plastic retainers those are?

 

[Charlie207]

do you happen to know what size plastic retainers those are?

Looks like that. 5/8" x 3/8“ or so.

 

[Doubeleive]

Since I got the new wheels and tires installed I've noticed two to three times when I am backing out of a spot at work and start to pull forward there would be a pop on the right side. I chalked it up to some of them black walnut shells around on the ground near where I park. It finally happened when I was backing out of a space other than work so I was hoping it wasn't the new ball joint going bad. Realized yesterday that the tire tread comes really close to the mudflap when turned all the way to the right. The Husky mudflap isn't flat and has a curve to it and the edge has a small lip sticking towards the tire. The mudflap hangs down and the mounting screws are higher up, so I may have to try heating it up with a heat gun and try to get it to not curve forward as much.

EDIT: after looking at it, I could probably just trim a bit of that lip at the inside bottom

View attachment 390739

are those 22's or 20's ? i have the same flaps on mine with the same size in 20" no rub, popping noise is often the front sway bar needing the bushings lubed, I have to lube mine about every 6 months or when the weather/seasons change

 

[Charlie207]

are those 22's or 20's ? i have the same flaps on mine with the same size in 20" no rub, popping noise is often the front sway bar needing the bushings lubed, I have to lube mine about every 6 months or when the weather/seasons change

I have 33" tires and my Huskys would be rubbed by my tires, giving that popping sound as the tread block grabbed the corners.

 

[Doubeleive]

I have 33" tires and my Huskys would be rubbed by my tires, giving that popping sound as the tread block grabbed the corners.

ya, he's not running 33's, those would probably rub a little without mud flaps and without a level kit.

 

[gooffeyguy]

are those 22's or 20's ? i have the same flaps on mine with the same size in 20" no rub, popping noise is often the front sway bar needing the bushings lubed, I have to lube mine about every 6 months or when the weather/seasons change

20's. The wheels have the same offset as stock (31mm) but are 9" wide vs stock 8.5". Tires are stock size, 275/55/20 Michelin Defender.

As my pic showed, that inside edge of the mudflap is curved into the wheel opening a bit and the corner of the tire tread does hit it at full lock. The other side doesn't. The mudflap is just out of shape and a bit curved inward too much on passenger side.

What sway bar bushing, the frame mount or end link?

 

[Charlie207]

ya, he's not running 33's, those would probably rub a little without mud flaps and without a level kit.

Ah, yeah I didn't see that.

But, I had 33" before the leveling kit on mine (pre-mudflaps) and they never rubbed. (you could barely pass a thin blonde one through the gap, but it cleared)

 

[Doubeleive]

20's. The wheels have the same offset as stock (31mm) but are 9" wide vs stock 8.5". Tires are stock size, 275/55/20 Michelin Defender.

As my pic showed, that inside edge of the mudflap is curved into the wheel opening a bit and the corner of the tire tread does hit it at full lock. The other side doesn't. The mudflap is just out of shape and a bit curved inward too much on passenger side.

What sway bar bushing, the frame mount or end link?

usually it's D bushing's where it mounts under the frame, the end links should be firm the bushings get flattened over time so sometimes there can be some clacking there also. It's not uncommon for the stock end links to loose a nut and then it's loose or the whole thing disappears. I put 2 nut's on the ends of mine and tightened them together so it cant work it's way loose.

 

[bigrhino]

Went to start my Tahoe this afternoon and nothing. No lights,horn etc. Cleaned my battery connections and that solved the problem.

 

[Geoffsfas10]

got the rear glass sections all tinted +20% over stock

 

[StrkAliteN]

Been working on getting my Yukon ready for a 2500 mile tow across the country ( 20 foot TNT cargo trailer )

I installed a new Tekonsha P3 brake controller

I put new Michelin tires on it from Costco. More truck rated than previous they have a more solid sidewall and will tow a load better.

Removed and replaced all the 15yo original radiator heater coolant hoses under the hood ( 1 small leak and you are dead in the water )
New rear brakes few months ago.

recently bought a receiver hitch set up ( needed a 7" drop to line up correct ) I opted for one that has the built in scale to be accurate with tongue weight specs.
Also nabbed a lock set up so it stays hooked to my rig when I am sleeping in a motel around 4-5 nights of travel

Any other ideas to prep ? Obvious change oil in a few months. besides that I think the GMC is ready to roll. Will have a load of trailer dead weight of I think 2200 lbs and I will be loading 5-6000 pounds of shit in it.

I wanted a B&W hitch receiver, just too much $$ and no model had a built in weight scale.

 

[89Suburban]

got the rear glass sections all tinted +20% over stock

PICS!!!

 

[Geotrash]

Been working on getting my Yukon ready for a 2500 mile tow across the country ( 20 foot TNT cargo trailer )

I installed a new Tekonsha P3 brake controller

I put new Michelin tires on it from Costco. More truck rated than previous they have a more solid sidewall and will tow a load better.

Removed and replaced all the 15yo original radiator heater coolant hoses under the hood ( 1 small leak and you are dead in the water )
New rear brakes few months ago.

recently bought a receiver hitch set up ( needed a 7" drop to line up correct ) I opted for one that has the built in scale to be accurate with tongue weight specs.
Also nabbed a lock set up so it stays hooked to my rig when I am sleeping in a motel around 4-5 nights of travel

Any other ideas to prep ? Obvious change oil in a few months. besides that I think the GMC is ready to roll. Will have a load of trailer dead weight of I think 2200 lbs and I will be loading 5-6000 pounds of shit in it.

I wanted a B&W hitch receiver, just too much $$ and no model had a built in weight scale.

View attachment 391031

With that much load, I strongly recommend a weight distributing, sway control hitch. I haul our TT with a Camco Recurve R3. Works great.