What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[89Suburban]

Not a oil leak even though it looked like it wet, explains why it looked rusty, it's the right motor mount leaking the funky fluid out, time for another hummer mountView attachment 384323

Beats an agonizing oil leak mystery!!! Good job man!

 

[wjburken]

Not a oil leak even though it looked like it wet, explains why it looked rusty, it's the right motor mount leaking the funky fluid out, time for another hummer mountView attachment 384323

Crazy that you’d have a broken motor mount. It’s not like you push it to the limit…..oh wait. Yah, it makes sense.

 

[Doubeleive]

Crazy that you’d have a broken motor mount. It’s not like you push it to the limit…..oh wait. Yah, it makes sense.

Already did the driver's side so I'm actually surprised the other side broke I can't feel any difference tight as a bug in a rug, maybe because it happened recently it still has some strength left

 

[Doubeleive]

Beats an agonizing oil leak mystery!!! Good job man!

ya, I was kind of surprised to see that but relieved that it wasn't a oil leak this engine is too new for leaks, for as much as I beat on it though all I have had is one broken exhaust manifold bolt. I had just cleaned and pressure washed everything about 3 weeks ago so I figured any leak would be pretty easy to find

 

[Charlie207]

Already did the driver's side so I'm actually surprised the other side broke I can't feel any difference tight as a bug in a rug, maybe because it happened recently it still has some strength left

My guess is that the passenger mount compresses when you hammer the gas-pedal, vs. the obvious drive's-side lifting up.

Unless you have a rare counter-rotating crankshaft, RPO code: WFTLOL2

 

[Fubar0715]

My guess is that the passenger mount compresses when you hammer the gas-pedal, vs. the obvious drive's-side lifting up.

Unless you have a rare counter-rotating crankshaft, RPO code: WFTLOL2

Is that RPO for the Silverado? I think the code for the Tahoe/Denali/Esky is WOTLOL2 - I tell ya, this forum provides SOO much information/knowledge sharing that an average person would just be lost without!

 

[m1dn]

Dropping the oil pan is really no big deal on one of these, even with 4wd/awd. I've done it 4x over the past few years for cam swaps, oil pickup tube seal, etc. Drop the crossmember, drop the sway bar, drop the steering rack and let it hang from the tie rods, remove the passenger side CV axle bolts and diff mount and let it hang down... boom, plenty of room to get the oil pan out. With the truck up on jack stands and with an air impact wrench in hand, I can drop the oil pan in under an hour. But my guess is that your leak isn't from the oil pan. It's much more likely to be coming from where the oil cooler lines go into the block above the oil filter, the valve covers, or the VLOM plate.

That's actually very good advice, thank you!
Valve covers might have never been off, it won't hurt taking them off, cleaning everything, replacing the gaskets and maybe even coils?
And check for any possible rocker slack

Will add to my todo list and get it done sometime next week mornings, Ontario teachers are on strike starting Friday, so that's few extra free hours for not taking kiddo to school

 

[Doubeleive]

My guess is that the passenger mount compresses when you hammer the gas-pedal, vs. the obvious drive's-side lifting up.

Unless you have a rare counter-rotating crankshaft, RPO code: WFTLOL2

ya I'm not out doing supercharged tricks in reverse like @Rocket Man lol

 

[RooTBeeRthe1st]

I'm getting so itchy lately.
So many part laying around.

 

[Rocket Man]

ya I'm not out doing supercharged tricks in reverse like @Rocket Man lol

I’m surprised you haven’t tried it yet. Seems like you’d get bored doing WOT in forward only.

 

[Charlie207]

Dropping the oil pan is really no big deal on one of these, even with 4wd/awd. I've done it 4x over the past few years for cam swaps, oil pickup tube seal, etc. Drop the crossmember, drop the sway bar, drop the steering rack and let it hang from the tie rods, remove the passenger side CV axle bolts and diff mount and let it hang down... boom, plenty of room to get the oil pan out. With the truck up on jack stands and with an air impact wrench in hand, I can drop the oil pan in under an hour. But my guess is that your leak isn't from the oil pan. It's much more likely to be coming from where the oil cooler lines go into the block above the oil filter, the valve covers, or the VLOM plate.

I wish I had the courage to do a DoD delete with a new cam in my gravel/dirt driveway on my daily driver.

 

[Doubeleive]

I’m surprised you haven’t tried it yet. Seems like you’d get bored doing WOT in forward only.

I can't bring myself to spend the money, trying to buy a house again whenever the stars align

 

[m1dn]

Dropping the oil pan is really no big deal on one of these, even with 4wd/awd. I've done it 4x over the past few years for cam swaps, oil pickup tube seal, etc. Drop the crossmember, drop the sway bar, drop the steering rack and let it hang from the tie rods, remove the passenger side CV axle bolts and diff mount and let it hang down... boom, plenty of room to get the oil pan out. With the truck up on jack stands and with an air impact wrench in hand, I can drop the oil pan in under an hour. But my guess is that your leak isn't from the oil pan. It's much more likely to be coming from where the oil cooler lines go into the block above the oil filter, the valve covers, or the VLOM plate.

I LOVE this forum, thanks again!

Was taking off headlight to remove moisture and reseal and what do you know, decided to "touch" the 2 bolts that are reachable on the VLOM plate ( non-DOD engine ), the both bolts are loosy, did some tighty for now but will be taking off the top to clean it up and make sure all other bolts are TIGHT.

 

[89Suburban]

I LOVE this forum, thanks again!

Was taking off headlight to remove moisture and reseal and what do you know, decided to "touch" the 2 bolts that are reachable on the VLOM plate ( non-DOD engine ), the both bolts are loosy, did some tighty for now but will be taking off the top to clean it up and make sure all other bolts are TIGHT.

I hope yours aint as bad as mine was. I had one or 2 tight bolts the rest were all fkn loose. Bleeding to death inside and out.

What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

and you guys talking about the 3rd brake light? any pics?

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

 

[m1dn]

I hope yours aint as bad as mine was. I had one or 2 tight bolts the rest were all fkn loose. Bleeding to death inside and out.

What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

and you guys talking about the 3rd brake light? any pics?

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

Looks like these engines just go in the heat and love to leave marks everywhere they go so other "male" LSes can find them easily.

Did you have to do anything else besides cleaning it up and tightening the bolts?

 

[89Suburban]

Looks like these engines just go in the heat and love to leave marks everywhere they go so other "male" LSes can find them easily.

Did you have to do anything else besides cleaning it up and tightening the bolts?

I had to replace the whole VLOM assembly because it is riveted together and you can't replace the gaskets on it. So make sure you do your homework parts searching. There are a few different gasket designs. The firs two I ordered didn't match. And I come to find out the gasket on mine is riveted into the VLOM assembly itself so I had to buy that instead and lost the money I spent on the damned gaskets because they would not accept them for a return. The things are pricey.

I will say once the VLOM was replaced with a new one it breathed some new life into the motor and ran MUCH better. I also had an issue on the first cold start with running rough and misfire codes. I revved the hell out of it out of frustration and it cleared right up. It's my gut feeling it took a while for the air to get purged out of the VLOM.

Also might as well replace the oil pressure sending unit and screen, and steam port gaskets while it is apart (2 in front and 2 in back.)

 

[89Suburban]

I have a schit load of miles on mine and I am just one of the many so see what others here have to say too please. @swathdiver @TollKeeper @Geotrash @iamdub @wjburken @George B

 

[George B]

I have a schit load of miles on mine and I am just one of the many so see what others here have to say too please. @swathdiver @TollKeeper @Geotrash @iamdub @wjburken @George B

About what my friend?

 

[m1dn]

I had to replace the whole VLOM assembly because it is riveted together and you can't replace the gaskets on it. So make sure you do your homework parts searching. There are a few different gasket designs. The firs two I ordered didn't match. And I come to find out the gasket on mine is riveted into the VLOM assembly itself so I had to buy that instead and lost the money I spent on the damned gaskets because they would not accept them for a return. The things are pricey.

I will say once the VLOM was replaced with a new one it breathed some new life into the motor and ran MUCH better. I also had an issue on the first cold start with running rough and misfire codes. I revved the hell out of it out of frustration and it cleared right up. It's my gut feeling it took a while for the air to get purged out of the VLOM.

Also might as well replace the oil pressure sending unit and screen, and steam port gaskets while it is apart (2 in front and 2 in back.)

Do you have parts number still by chance?
Looking at Rockauto, it's hard to find VLOM or VLOM Gaskets for 2008 6.2 ( non-dod ), it lists different looking parts, mostly complete VLOM plates it seems

I guess intake manifold gaskets would be another good idea while i'm down there?

 

[Doubeleive]

Do you have parts number still by chance?
Looking at Rockauto, it's hard to find VLOM or VLOM Gaskets for 2008 6.2 ( non-dod ), it lists different looking parts, mostly complete VLOM plates it seems

I guess intake manifold gaskets would be another good idea while i'm down there?

the non dod are flat i believe, the dod have ridges