Growing up doesn't have to suck

[iamdub]

Awesome! Glad it didn't hurt the piston and you can get by with a semi painless repair. Well, much less painful than a complete engine swap

I still found myself plotting out the process to make sure I shouldn't proceed with swapping it. I mean, it's a few converter bolts, bellhousing bolts, mount bolts, A/C compressor and bracket, unplugging a few sensors from the underside, unbolting the oil cooler and lifting it out.

But then I'd also have to open up the LC9 to re-seal. Once inside, I'd be hard-pressed to not swap my cam, oil pump, timing set, etc. over to it. I'd have exactly what I had before except be ~80 lbs. lighter and have an iron block on the side ready to be modded. But, time isn't on my side here.

I can slap this one back together and have exactly what I had before (except with new valve springs) and I'd feel better about taking it on a trip. It's the devil I know.

I'll leave the LC9 on the stand and work on it at my own pace- checking it out internally, cleaning it, deleting AFM ("stock" cam or mild performance), refurbish the heads, geek out on the valve train geometry, etc. Maybe build it as a clone to my LMG, maybe even turned up a notch so it'd be a direct swap with minimal tuning needed. It's really tempting to make an LS6 out of it, but with a truck-oriented cam.

 

[pwtr02ss]

I still found myself plotting out the process to make sure I shouldn't proceed with swapping it. I mean, it's a few converter bolts, bellhousing bolts, mount bolts, A/C compressor and bracket, unplugging a few sensors from the underside, unbolting the oil cooler and lifting it out.

But then I'd also have to open up the LC9 to re-seal. Once inside, I'd be hard-pressed to not swap my cam, oil pump, timing set, etc. over to it. I'd have exactly what I had before except be ~80 lbs. lighter and have an iron block on the side ready to be modded. But, time isn't on my side here.

I can slap this one back together and have exactly what I had before (except with new valve springs) and I'd feel better about taking it on a trip. It's the devil I know.

I'll leave the LC9 on the stand and work on it at my own pace- checking it out internally, cleaning it, deleting AFM ("stock" cam or mild performance), refurbish the heads, geek out on the valve train geometry, etc. Maybe build it as a clone to my LMG, maybe even turned up a notch so it'd be a direct swap with minimal tuning needed. It's really tempting to make an LS6 out of it, but with a truck-oriented cam.

I totally understand the dilemma. When the time comes, I know it will be an exceptional piece. I wish I had gone a little more radical in the cam department on the avalanche. I may end up changing it at some point. I'd love to put a whipple on it but I don't think I have the stomach to spend that kind of money on it. Time will tell I suppose

 

[iamdub]

Valve spring compressor was delivered Tuesday and new valve springs were delivered Wednesday. Been working late so I've been in the shop late and now my sleep schedule is fooked.

Last night:
Replaced the valve with one removed from some junk 706 heads and lapped it in.

Inspected the contact edge of the rest of the valves and determined they didn't need any work. These heads were re-done less than 20K ago.

Swapped the springs on the head.

Disassembled the head gasket to clean between the layers to make it as sanitary as possible. Sprayed each side with copper coat and installed.

Installed the head with new OEM bolts.

Used a scissor jack and 2x4 to lift the exhaust crossover pipe so it'd be easy to align the header and bolt it in (used new gasket).

Replaced the springs on the other (passenger) head. I did the rope trick cuz I didn't wanna take my compression tester apart to use air and I didn't want my compressor cycling any more than it was already.


Tonight:
Installed push rods, replacing the ones I had planned to with those I had ordered months ago.

Installed rockers.

Installed rocker covers.

Installed new corrugated loom on engine harness.

Installed intake manifold.

Installed coils.

Routed and connected harness.

Installed accessory bracket.

Installed alternator.

Reconnected lower radiator hose.

Installed belt.

Installed intake tube (MIT).

Installed driveshaft.

Installed skid plate.

Filled coolant surge tank.

Held the accelerator to the floor to crank it for ten seconds.

Started it as normal.



The valve train noise for the first ~5 minutes was unsettling. But, it got better and now seems to be quieter and smoother than ever. Maybe those new push rods are why. I kept the surge tank topped off as I let it idle to purge and sit at operating temp with a few really slow revs to 3,000. I'll make a slow trip to the gas station tomorrow and park it afterward to cool again. Then I'll consider the new springs "broken-in". I'll go for a drive and ease back into my normal driving style. Just wanna do everything I can to feel comfortable with taking it to Tampa.

 

[89Suburban]

U DA MAN!!!!!

 

[pwtr02ss]

Valve spring compressor was delivered Tuesday and new valve springs were delivered Wednesday. Been working late so I've been in the shop late and now my sleep schedule is fooked.

Last night:
Replaced the valve with one removed from some junk 706 heads and lapped it in.

Inspected the contact edge of the rest of the valves and determined they didn't need any work. These heads were re-done less than 20K ago.

Swapped the springs on the head.

Disassembled the head gasket to clean between the layers to make it as sanitary as possible. Sprayed each side with copper coat and installed.

Installed the head with new OEM bolts.

Used a scissor jack and 2x4 to lift the exhaust crossover pipe so it'd be easy to align the header and bolt it in (used new gasket).

Replaced the springs on the other (passenger) head. I did the rope trick cuz I didn't wanna take my compression tester apart to use air and I didn't want my compressor cycling any more than it was already.


Tonight:
Installed push rods, replacing the ones I had planned to with those I had ordered months ago.

Installed rockers.

Installed rocker covers.

Installed new corrugated loom on engine harness.

Installed intake manifold.

Installed coils.

Routed and connected harness.

Installed accessory bracket.

Installed alternator.

Reconnected lower radiator hose.

Installed belt.

Installed intake tube (MIT).

Installed driveshaft.

Installed skid plate.

Filled coolant surge tank.

Held the accelerator to the floor to crank it for ten seconds.

Started it as normal.



The valve train noise for the first ~5 minutes was unsettling. But, it got better and now seems to be quieter and smoother than ever. Maybe those new push rods are why. I kept the surge tank topped off as I let it idle to purge and sit at operating temp with a few really slow revs to 3,000. I'll make a slow trip to the gas station tomorrow and park it afterward to cool again. Then I'll consider the new springs "broken-in". I'll go for a drive and ease back into my normal driving style. Just wanna do everything I can to feel comfortable with taking it to Tampa.

Quick work as always!

That lifter noise you describe. Thats been my avalanche when I first started it AND when I swapped the push rods the first time. Very unsettling...

Glad to see you have it back together and all seems well. I'm sure she's ready to power you to tampa and back with no issues

 

[iamdub]

Quick work as always!

That lifter noise you describe. Thats been my avalanche when I first started it AND when I swapped the push rods the first time. Very unsettling...

Glad to see you have it back together and all seems well. I'm sure she's ready to power you to tampa and back with no issues

That quick work had me nervous cuz I kept wondering what I forgot!

I didn't prime it like I did when I refreshed it 2+ years ago. I just cranked it for that one ten-second session. I knew it'd be noisy but would quiet down. It just seemed to take forever but it must've been less than five minutes for the only ticking to be the injectors. When I cold-started it this evening, there was no lifter noise at all.

It did great today and I'll be running errands around BR tomorrow. Then, on Tuesday, I'll be taking Kin to New Orleans for a concert. So that'll be two 2-hour highway trips (there and back). I hope to be fully comfortable with it at that point.

 

[OR VietVet]

That quick work had me nervous cuz I kept wondering what I forgot!

I didn't prime it like I did when I refreshed it 2+ years ago. I just cranked it for that one ten-second session. I knew it'd be noisy but would quiet down. It just seemed to take forever but it must've been less than five minutes for the only ticking to be the injectors. When I cold-started it this evening, there was no lifter noise at all.

It did great today and I'll be running errands around BR tomorrow. Then, on Tuesday, I'll be taking Kin to New Orleans for a concert. So that'll be two 2-hour highway trips (there and back). I hope to be fully comfortable with it at that point.

Positive thoughts...It will be ok...If it's quiet, especially going to N.O. and back, you'll be good.

 

[iamdub]

Positive thoughts...It will be ok...If it's quiet, especially going to N.O. and back, you'll be good.

I'm impatient and got more comfortable with it today:

 

[Fless]

I'm impatient and got more comfortable with it today:

Watchin' that fuel range count down. Worth it!

 

[iamdub]

Watchin' that fuel range count down. Worth it!

It's okay cuz it's still in testing! I'll watch it hold 400+ en route to Tampa. I think I hit or exceeded 500 on a trip to Houston. I'll see if I can dig up some documentation...

 

[89Suburban]

I'm impatient and got more comfortable with it today:

Well okay then!!

 

[randeez]

I'm impatient and got more comfortable with it today:

i cannot hear the supercharger

 

[iamdub]

i cannot hear the supercharger

Currently removed, hence the excruciatingly slow acceleration. Didn't wanna boost a piston with donkey footprints in it.

 

[iamdub]

So, these valve spring compressors are notorious for being crappy. In fact, I was gonna pull the other head to use my hydraulic press to replace the springs on both heads. In minimizing the work/time invested, I decided to try a compressor that looked pretty good. I was pleasantly surprised.

There were two versions on Amazon. One had regular nuts and no storage case. For $1 more, I got the case, tall nuts and with "TOP" engraved on the main tool part:

Quality hardware, and included an extra main stud and extra washers:

I applied some assembly lube to the threads and underside of the flange on the nut. It worked flawlessly for the entire head with no signs of galling, no flexing, etc. I applied more assembly lube before starting on the other head, but I think it would've been fine without it:

The instructions kinda suck. But, if you can't figure it out by looking at it, you probably shouldn't be doing this kind of work. I'm sure it's metric, but I got a spare 3/16 hex wrench from my miscellaneous/spare tools box to keep in the storage box to assemble and disassemble the tool. Yes, I had the spacer on the bottom when it likely would've been better on top. Whatever, it worked fine and I'm glad I invested the $36.99.

 

[iamdub]

In addition to all new valve springs and a few revised length push rods for improved lifter preloads, I also installed those LS3 ignition wires I scored for $42 from an Amazon Warehouse deal back in April. The wires don't come out the side of the spark plug end like with the originals. But the wire is just long enough that they curve just fine without being too tight. They're actually not stretched tight at all- just enough to not have slack to curve. I actually like the straight lines. I also like the color and just having new OEM wires. The originals cleared the header tubes perfectly fine so these have even more clearance:

After all the driving, I don't smell coolant (spilled on the frame when draining) or any of the other chemicals used during the process burning off any more. Just the smell of hot metal, rubber and plastic, as normal. The coolant level in the surge tank is starting at and returning to the "FULL" line through the heat cycles and the oil is staying at the marks. So, the head gasket is holding and nothing is leaking otherwise.

 

[randeez]

Currently removed, hence the excruciatingly slow acceleration. Didn't wanna boost a piston with donkey footprints in it.

less piston=less compression= good for boost

 

[iamdub]

less piston=less compression= good for boost

Right! I could port the #7 intake runner so it gets a little more volume to properly direct that boost. Also, I could have a custom cam made with higher lobe lift and/or more advance on the #7 exhaust side to take advantage of the fly cut piston.

 

[OR VietVet]

So, these valve spring compressors are notorious for being crappy. In fact, I was gonna pull the other head to use my hydraulic press to replace the springs on both heads. In minimizing the work/time invested, I decided to try a compressor that looked pretty good. I was pleasantly surprised.

There were two versions on Amazon. One had regular nuts and no storage case. For $1 more, I got the case, tall nuts and with "TOP" engraved on the main tool part:

View attachment 383592

View attachment 383594


Quality hardware, and included an extra main stud and extra washers:

View attachment 383593


I applied some assembly lube to the threads and underside of the flange on the nut. It worked flawlessly for the entire head with no signs of galling, no flexing, etc. I applied more assembly lube before starting on the other head, but I think it would've been fine without it:

View attachment 383595



The instructions kinda suck. But, if you can't figure it out by looking at it, you probably shouldn't be doing this kind of work. I'm sure it's metric, but I got a spare 3/16 hex wrench from my miscellaneous/spare tools box to keep in the storage box to assemble and disassemble the tool. Yes, I had the spacer on the bottom when it likely would've been better on top. Whatever, it worked fine and I'm glad I invested the $36.99.

I gotta say, way cleaner hands than I would have had doing this work or.......you wear gloves or just cleaned before pics.

 

[iamdub]

Speaking of boost, my current train of thought with the LC9 is to open it up to delete AFM and deeply inspect the guts. Open up the ring gap for mild-moderate boost and throw a few other beef-up parts (rod bolts, etc.) to help. Swap that in with a small turbo and learn how to tune. Meanwhile, I'll have my LMG on the side to bore (to a safe boosted limit) and forge for higher psi. When I hurt or pop the LC9 or am otherwise ready for it, swap the built LMG in and crank up the psi with an appropriate turbo. Maybe I'll have my built TR6060 installed sometime while the LC9 is in. #puffpuffpass

 

[iamdub]

I gotta say, way cleaner hands than I would have had doing this work or.......you wear gloves or just cleaned before pics.

My engine is just that clean! It's only been in there for 19K miles.




Nah, fo real, doe, I started out wearing the Harbor Freight 9 mil nitrile gloves but never bothered to put 'em on again past the initial disassembly. A gallon of Zep Cherry Bomb stays on my utility tub and, after all the work was done on that last day, I scrubbed my nails with a toothbrush.