What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Amaster]

Changed headlights to leds, and also finally fixed my ground for my heated steering wheel. Once pay day comes time to get that backup camera installed.

 

[Rocket Man]

It feels great but real pain in the ass. Some of those bolts are a real b*tch to get to. What I wound up doing was removing the bottom 2 door bolts first with a 10MM ratchet wrench, then loosening the top ones. That allowed me to TILT the bottom of the fully open door back enough at the bottom to reach the 2 front pillar bolts with a 1/4" drive and swivel wrapped with electrical tape, 13MM socket. I used a jack with a rubber mat to hold the bottom of the door and suspend it in the middle and adjust the door up and down during this whole process.

Then I did the rear pillar bolt with a 13MM ratchet wrench and the fender bolt with extension and 13MM socket. The hinge will slide out through the bottom. Slide then new one into place, used the fender bolt to loosely hold it in place. Get the 2 a-hole front pillar bolts started. Then put the rear pillar bolt in and very slightly snug it. Get 1 bottom door bolt installed. Sung the door bolts very slightly. Then try to get the door aligned properly up/down to close right and have a correct gap to the fender. You snug them just right to where you can yank the door up or down to adjust.

Once you are on point, fully tighten the rear pillar bolt. Thake the damn bottom door bolt back out, loosen the top ones, so you can angle the door AGAIN to snug up the front 2 pillar bolts. THEN reinstall and lightly snug all the door bolts. Retest shuts correctly and lines up. Tighten up all the door bolts. And the fender bolt is the last one to tighten up.

Now I need some beers, good bye.

“a-hole front pivot bolts”

 

[mattbta]

Does GM make their cam sensors in China? Or I got amazon scammed? It was in a gm box, lol

I won't buy sensors off Amazon for that very reason. Here's one I got from a trusted dealer for my GMT-800.

 

[89Suburban]

but but but...RUST!

I didn't think it would rust, it looks Zinc plated.

 

[Geotrash]

I didn't think it would rust, it looks Zinc plated.

It is. And with 340K on the clock, a visual mismatch in a hidden corner ain't gonna affect your resale negatively. Just the opposite. Anyone who buys it will take it as evidence that the truck was cared for and maintained.

 

[gooffeyguy]

I won't buy sensors off Amazon for that very reason. Here's one I got from a trusted dealer for my GMT-800.


View attachment 380911

It's made in China also, so maybe Walchit's is legit

 

[Doubeleive]

It's made in China also, so maybe Walchit's is legit

maybe just the metal bracket is china...

 

[Doug118]

Incase anyone was curious, yes these trucks survive at 16v and the starter is absolutely loving life

 

[Doubeleive]

Incase anyone was curious, yes these trucks survive at 16v and the starter is absolutely loving life

my mechman will put out about that much

 

[Doug118]

my mechman will put out about that much

my mechman will put out about that much

Im curious as to how high “about that much” is

 

[m1dn]

Changed air compressor today, rides waaaaay smoother.
Funny enough previous owner or shop put dorman shocks brand new but compressor was never replaced, very old and rusted.

Was also going to do plugs and wires, sounded like a 10min job like on my old f150.
Opened the hood, looked at #8 and back to amazon i was to order weird grips to try and get the plug boots out.
Such a weird design, why the boots have metal piece on them that gets stuck for life?
Do you need them when putting plugs back together?

 

[Doubeleive]

Im curious as to how high “about that much” is

I have seen it put out 15.5-16v all the way at the back of my truck thru 0 gauge to my amp, measured at the amp positive post
a lot of things can handle 24v because of tractors and trucks that use it, but it's not always documented.
14v is usually what things are spec'd at
10.8v is bare minimum as far as GM say's, below that things just do not work right.

 

[Doubeleive]

Changed air compressor today, rides waaaaay smoother.
Funny enough previous owner or shop put dorman shocks brand new but compressor was never replaced, very old and rusted.

Was also going to do plugs and wires, sounded like a 10min job like on my old f150.
Opened the hood, looked at #8 and back to amazon i was to order weird grips to try and get the plug boots out.
Such a weird design, why the boots have metal piece on them that gets stuck for life?
Do you need them when putting plugs back together?

the metal shroud is to protect the wire from heat, the special pliers are made so that you can "maybe" manage to salvage the plug wires but they usually end up tearing anyway.
#8 is easy as any other just use a couple of short adapters and a cheater bar.

 

[m1dn]

the metal shroud is to protect the wire from heat, the special pliers are made so that you can "maybe" manage to salvage the plug wires but they usually end up tearing anyway.
#8 is easy as any other just use a couple of short adapters and a cheater bar.

Whats the recommended way on reaching the 8 to pull out the plug? With force and breakage of wire being okay, replacing them anyway
Couldn’t get my hand in there and it seemed to be sitting sooooo tight

 

[Doubeleive]

Whats the recommended way on reaching the 8 to pull out the plug? With force and breakage of wire being okay, replacing them anyway
Couldn’t get my hand in there and it seemed to be sitting sooooo tight

I just use the spark plug socket, the end of that socket accepts another socket (not sure what mm just try a couple) and then I adapt that down a 1/4" ratchet and use a cheater bar on the end, my cheater bar is a piece of galvanized pipe, just slips right over.
all you need to do is break it free then you can usually take it out by hand. tightening back up just hand judge 12lbs or whatever the spec is

 

[Doug118]

I have seen it put out 15.5-16v all the way at the back of my truck thru 0 gauge to my amp, measured at the amp positive post
a lot of things can handle 24v because of tractors and trucks that use it, but it's not always documented.
14v is usually what things are spec'd at
10.8v is bare minimum as far as GM say's, below that things just do not work right.

There isn’t a single thing in these trucks that will handle 24v

 

[Doubeleive]

There isn’t a single thing in these trucks that will handle 24v

sure there is, you don't think the common idiot hasn't accidentally hooked a couple batteries up wrong and managed to not fry the entire vehicle.
I will say that people "have" jump started 12v vehicles with 24v, but I wouldn't recommend it. Also a lot of chip makers indicate 24v as "maximum" voltage
not saying hey run out and make this bad boy 24v lol but your starter would probably survive a quick 24v jump

 

[CaptainAmerica1]

Whats the recommended way on reaching the 8 to pull out the plug? With force and breakage of wire being okay, replacing them anyway
Couldn’t get my hand in there and it seemed to be sitting sooooo tight

I always twist my boots a quarter turn before pulling and haven’t broken a wire yet. Coarse I also use dielectric grease when I assemble them. I find a plug socket and a 3/4 extension takes em out no fuss…

 

[Rocket Man]

I always twist my boots a quarter turn before pulling and haven’t broken a wire yet. Coarse I also use dielectric grease when I assemble them. I find a plug socket and a 3/4 extension takes em out no fuss…

I try not to wear boots anymore, so uncomfortable…

 

[CaptainAmerica1]

I try not to wear boots anymore, so uncomfortable…

Super helpful Silverado guy…