Lifter tick help will mmo or motor flush help?

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Trey Hardy

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Hey guys just wanted y’all’s opinions and real world experiences with trying to salvage some ticking lifters. A couple weeks ago she started doing it I replaced both 02 sensors as one was bad along with new vacuum lines as one was cracked and I diddnt have the other hooked up to the aftermarket intake I ended up drilling a hole putting a bushing and nipple on it and hose clamped it. Seemed to fix it but after driving it back to work 4 hr away things went well I was relieved but as soon as I went to the store 20 min away it came back. Pissed off i give it the old Italian tune up I put it in first gear and ran it up the road pegged out about 5-6k rpm and it cleared it up went to drive it again today 20 min and it came back it seems to do it more so short drives but does it here and there on the long trips. Me being a tight *** could I throw a bottle of motor flush or marvel mystery oil in it and try to clean the motor out along with changing the oil and filter a couple times before I leave Friday? I definitely don’t want to be driving hrs away with it doing this and possibly getting broke down in the middle of nowhere on my ride home. Some crowd said tranny fluid helps also my buddy said switch to valvoline but I’ve always ran royal purple and a quart of Lucas with k&n filters since I got it with 245,000 miles give or take it’s got about 310,000 on the dash now nothings every Been replaced internally that I know of anyways. I know I know with the mileage look for a new engine I have a 6.0 my buddy’s got he’s going to let me get cheap but it also needs cam and lifters but only has 100,000 miles on it. What’s y’all’s opinions on this? Thank you for any input or advice
 

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Hey guys just wanted y’all’s opinions and real world experiences with trying to salvage some ticking lifters. A couple weeks ago she started doing it I replaced both 02 sensors as one was bad along with new vacuum lines as one was cracked and I diddnt have the other hooked up to the aftermarket intake I ended up drilling a hole putting a bushing and nipple on it and hose clamped it. Seemed to fix it but after driving it back to work 4 hr away things went well I was relieved but as soon as I went to the store 20 min away it came back. Pissed off i give it the old Italian tune up I put it in first gear and ran it up the road pegged out about 5-6k rpm and it cleared it up went to drive it again today 20 min and it came back it seems to do it more so short drives but does it here and there on the long trips. Me being a tight *** could I throw a bottle of motor flush or marvel mystery oil in it and try to clean the motor out along with changing the oil and filter a couple times before I leave Friday? I definitely don’t want to be driving hrs away with it doing this and possibly getting broke down in the middle of nowhere on my ride home. Some crowd said tranny fluid helps also my buddy said switch to valvoline but I’ve always ran royal purple and a quart of Lucas with k&n filters since I got it with 245,000 miles give or take it’s got about 310,000 on the dash now nothings every Been replaced internally that I know of anyways. I know I know with the mileage look for a new engine I have a 6.0 my buddy’s got he’s going to let me get cheap but it also needs cam and lifters but only has 100,000 miles on it. What’s y’all’s opinions on this? Thank you for any input or advice
Are you sure you don't have an exhaust leak from where the headers meet the heads? It's super common for an exhaust manifold bolt to loosen or break, creating a leak that is almost indistinguishable from a lifter tick.

As for MMO, I've never seen it work for one of these engines. And the last thing you want to do with an AFM engine is loosen up a bunch of crud and pump it through the VLOM.

Take a video of what you're hearing, post it up on YouTube and link it back here so we can hear it and offer input.

With 310K on it, worn parts are likely. Might be time for a proper AFM delete with a new cam, lifters, springs, seals and a valve job.
 

Dustin Jackson

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@Trey Hardy I think the best way to release a stuck lifter is to pull the intake manifold and try and tap it directly in hopes it releases. You could throw some liquid magic in there and rev it in hopes it sorts itself out but that might just continue to make the problem worse.

Keep in mind the lifter could now have a flat spot, is pitted, or is turned sideways in its tray all together.

If all that is wrong with the motor is the lifter and cam I say spend $2k fixing the motor and getting another 2+ years out of it.

I just spend like $2k and did an AFM-delete on my 180,000 mile 5.3 motor and it runs better than ever now, tear apart your current engine and if it looks ok send it
 
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Trey Hardy

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I ain’t got a way to post the video text me @252-240-9218 and I’ll send over the video of it I’m pretty sure it’s the lifter I have the dod tuned out it makes the same sound it use to make when it would drop to 4cyl mode. I have a slight tick from the idler pulley but it’s on the front this is coming from the driver side and possibly the passenger side too but mainly the driver side. My thing is I don’t want to sink a lot of money in this high mileage engine if the bearings or anything else are starting to get warn. If I get that 6.0 for 300-500$ get the cam (Texas speed stage 3) from my buddy new in box for 150$ and then get some good lifters and gasket/bolt set for the 6.0 id be around 1000$ give or take and I could throw the 5.3 to the side to rebuild for a OBS project in the future
Are you sure you don't have an exhaust leak from where the headers meet the heads? It's super common for an exhaust manifold bolt to loosen or break, creating a leak that is almost indistinguishable from a lifter tick.

As for MMO, I've never seen it work for one of these engines. And the last thing you want to do with an AFM engine is loosen up a bunch of crud and pump it through the VLOM.

Take a video of what you're hearing, post it up on YouTube and link it back here so we can hear it and offer input.

With 310K on it, worn parts are likely. Might be time for a proper AFM delete with a new cam, lifters, springs, seals and a valve job.
 
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Trey Hardy

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I didn’t want to sound stupid on the magic in a bottle either guys I know that’s not the proper way I was just hoping if I flushed the oil good and changed it out before I go to drive home Friday maybe it would act right for me without sounding like ima blow the top end out of her. I know the engine is gunked up from the oil pressure screens I’ve replaced like 3-4 in the past 75,000 miles this pic is the most recent one and the worst so far
 

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Geotrash

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What year is the 6.0 your buddy has, and what did it come out of?

It may not be a simple swap unless they're both Gen IV engines with the 58X reluctor wheel, etc etc., and if it doesn't have AFM, you'll need to tune it out, etc.
 

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I ain’t got a way to post the video text me @252-240-9218 and I’ll send over the video of it I’m pretty sure it’s the lifter I have the dod tuned out it makes the same sound it use to make when it would drop to 4cyl mode.
You can use the YouTube app on your phone to upload it to YouTube, mark it public, and generate a link. I also sent you a text message so feel free to send it to me and I can get it up here for you.
 
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I didn’t want to sound stupid on the magic in a bottle either guys I know that’s not the proper way I was just hoping if I flushed the oil good and changed it out before I go to drive home Friday maybe it would act right for me without sounding like ima blow the top end out of her. I know the engine is gunked up from the oil pressure screens I’ve replaced like 3-4 in the past 75,000 miles this pic is the most recent one and the worst so far
Holy crap!
 
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Trey Hardy

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What year is the 6.0 your buddy has, and what did it come out of?

It may not be a simple swap unless they're both Gen IV engines with the 58X reluctor wheel, etc etc., and if it doesn't have AFM, you'll need to tune it out, etc.
It came out a 08 2500 work truck I’m pretty sure cause he got the Escalade to get the 6.2 out of to swap into the work truck my buddy Cody said the 6.0 would be way easier to swap in vs the 6.2 as far as the computer and transmission goes I don’t dog or raise hell in the Tahoe that’s what my Silverado is for but if I go into this I’d definitely like to swap out the motor for something stronger my tuner literally laughed when he tuned my Tahoe cause it was so weak and slow
 

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It came out a 08 2500 work truck I’m pretty sure cause he got the Escalade to get the 6.2 out of to swap into the work truck my buddy Cody said the 6.0 would be way easier to swap in vs the 6.2 as far as the computer and transmission goes I don’t dog or raise hell in the Tahoe that’s what my Silverado is for but if I go into this I’d definitely like to swap out the motor for something stronger my tuner literally laughed when he tuned my Tahoe cause it was so weak and slow
Got the video. Yeah, definitely a lifter collapsed. I would try the YouTube trick for unsticking it but it's gonna need to come apart. An '08 6.0 should drop in with some minor mods to fuel injection, etc.

 

89Suburban

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Hey guys just wanted y’all’s opinions and real world experiences with trying to salvage some ticking lifters. A couple weeks ago she started doing it I replaced both 02 sensors as one was bad along with new vacuum lines as one was cracked and I diddnt have the other hooked up to the aftermarket intake I ended up drilling a hole putting a bushing and nipple on it and hose clamped it. Seemed to fix it but after driving it back to work 4 hr away things went well I was relieved but as soon as I went to the store 20 min away it came back. Pissed off i give it the old Italian tune up I put it in first gear and ran it up the road pegged out about 5-6k rpm and it cleared it up went to drive it again today 20 min and it came back it seems to do it more so short drives but does it here and there on the long trips. Me being a tight *** could I throw a bottle of motor flush or marvel mystery oil in it and try to clean the motor out along with changing the oil and filter a couple times before I leave Friday? I definitely don’t want to be driving hrs away with it doing this and possibly getting broke down in the middle of nowhere on my ride home. Some crowd said tranny fluid helps also my buddy said switch to valvoline but I’ve always ran royal purple and a quart of Lucas with k&n filters since I got it with 245,000 miles give or take it’s got about 310,000 on the dash now nothings every Been replaced internally that I know of anyways. I know I know with the mileage look for a new engine I have a 6.0 my buddy’s got he’s going to let me get cheap but it also needs cam and lifters but only has 100,000 miles on it. What’s y’all’s opinions on this? Thank you for any input or advice

I like that "Old Italian tune up" LOL. That's what I did one time I got off a highway towing my boat and I heard a loud lifter noise. I pulled into a lot to check the oil level and investigate. Everything looked fine so I revved the f'k out of it in Park and it went away and it's been fine ever since. That was like 2 years ago.

I had to do the same thing after I replaced the VLOM with a new one. Truck was missing and running like shit and I got pissed off and revved it to high hell and it was fine after that LOL. Like the VLOM needed to be purged of air or something.
 

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I like that "Old Italian tune up" LOL. That's what I did one time I got off a highway towing my boat and I heard a loud lifter noise. I pulled into a lot to check the oil level and investigate. Everything looked fine so I revved the f'k out of it in Park and it went away and it's been fine ever since. That was like 2 years ago.

I had to do the same thing after I replaced the VLOM with a new one. Truck was missing and running like shit and I got pissed off and revved it to high hell and it was fine after that LOL. Like the VLOM needed to be purged of air or something.

The old Italian Tune-up works every time!
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Trey Hardy

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Hey man my best friend had a old 4.8 with 200,000 on it with a horrible lifter tap and was the whole reason he got the 6.0 for that truck and before he pulled it out he literally stuck a brick on the gas and let that thing red line till she ran out of gas or blew up. He wanted it to blow up… But she ran out of gas and when we started it back up no more lifter tap we pulled that 4.8 out and sold it to my buddy Cameron who put it in his Camaro and has just now pulled it back out for the 6.2 100,000-150,000 miles later and more burnouts doughnuts and red lines then you could ever imagine between the two of them and she still is going strong lol
The old Italian Tune-up works every time!
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Trey Hardy

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It has been i did it within a month of having it along with stabilitrack and traction control off rear 02 tuned out for future exhaust work and adjusted all the shift points tightened things up as much as we could without breaking anything lol I baby my rig but when I get on it red line or get mad with it I run her like I want her to blow through the hood.
Got the guru in eastern nc for tuning Jamie Parker is the only dude I trust he’s been doing this for 10 years or longer anything from stock trucks to full blown race cars grew up in the drag racing world
Well unless the Rev limit in park parameter has been changed, it's still the same.

Just saying, I wouldn't consider revving to 4k as "revving the **** out of it" like stated above, lol
 
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Trey Hardy

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Tahoes set around 6200 I think and the Silverado is at 65 or 6700 but she’s got a mildly built motor with a high rpm cam that makes power in the top end the harder you turn her the more she wants to pull the truck has thrown the belt off a couple times the Tahoe ain’t but you can hear it wanting to in the upper rpm the trucks a lot quicker then my Tahoe though
 
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Let me clear up my previous post.

I was being a bit sarcastic.

It is not good for the engine to free rev up to near redline. That's why the factory (and I'm sure many tuners) set the Rev limiter in park as low as they do.

Revving under load is what I meant.
 

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