What filter? The orifice tube?
What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter phattyford
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What filter? The orifice tube?
Never heard of that.
Air can't get into it unless you loose all pressure or have a system failure.
gooffeyguy
Tom
I was joking, lol
yes couldn't remember the name of it
50 deg doesn't seem all that great, last time I checked mine will go down to 44-46, my 03 used to pump out 36deg so did my 00
From all I've read, the gauges on those cans are a gimmick and it's easy to overcharge the system with one, so I bought a set of gauges, a postal scale and a vacuum pump, and learned to do it by weight, which is what GM specifies. My 2007 Yukon XL Denali w/ rear A/C takes 40 oz. Took me about an hour to do the job - 45 minutes of vacuum, and 15 minutes to charge the system. It was empty due to a leaking Schrader valve on the low pressure port, which I fixed, so I didn't have to worry about recovering the old refrigerant. If it still had the refrigerant in it, I would have taken it to a pro to have the work done so they could recover it for recycling. As the system was charging, I kept a thermometer in the dash vent and once I'd added the 40 oz., the temperature was 1-2º colder than spec.
Apparently, not doing it by weight has implications with these trucks because the compressor sits low in the system, where excess liquid (like having too much oil in the system) will accumulate and can eventually take out the compressor. Dunno how true that is in practice, but it's what I was told by a mechanic friend.
Anyway, I did the job 2 years and 20K miles ago and it's still blowing ice cold with no other problems. This video was the guide I used. Good luck!
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You think this is a game??? We ain't got time for jokes up in here!!
George B
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Is the consensus to not add any oil unless replacing large parts?
That's my understanding. In the video I linked above, he speaks to that at about 7:30.
That gauge set is nice. Has the window in it and purge valve so when you hook up a new can you can purge the air out of the line and see the fluid in the window.
Yes sir.
Any insight on this guys? The light comes on during the key on test cycle. But when I set the parking brake it is not lighting up.
George B
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
There must be a switch on the pedal assembly.
You may have a bad parking brake sensor switch that's not detecting when the brake is engaged.
apply the parking brake, then look down around the assembly there is a switch they used to be a push button but it's probably a contact switch, might be hard to see but it's there. check it to see if it's stuck or if the contacts are dirty, got bent, etc.
Thanks guys I'll take a look under there and see what the deal is when I get a chance.
GD door lock just stopped working on my D/S/F door. She's been a real B*TCH this year so far with things breaking.
Fuel pump replace, rebuild rear axle, 2 fuggin DL actuators in 3 months. Both of those are only a couple years old too.
probably depends on the year they changed the parking brake design, not sure what year, my 12 is a push to engage, then push to dis-engage, the older one's have a traditional pull handle release with cable.
