What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Drwinlied]

Bought a full brake kit because the rears are shot, figured the fronts won't be too far behind.

 

[George B]

Just cut that fu*ker off with an angle grinder. Band clamps are cheap.

My first thought as well.

 

[iamdub]

Finally had a reason to drive it- had to go pick up Kin from her friend's house. On my way there, I took my time to let it all warm up before easing into it on the highway to a comfy 90ish.

Yeah- that's about all my excitement for the week. She's parked again, probably for a week or two. Or three.

 

[Malik112099]

Plastic razor bladed and eraser wheeled the old 3M off my Yukon. Not bad for how old it is. Prepped the door molding with new 3M. I replaced the driver's side rear molding in 2017 when I bought it. Still holding up well.

Gonna run it through the car wash tomorrow to clean off the eraser wheel dust and then install the molding when I have a chance.

 

[Just Fishing]

Just cut that fu*ker off with an angle grinder. Band clamps are cheap.

Got my lil impact on it, and the bolt snapped!

Now i get to find the PN for that sucker....

 

[Rocket Man]

Got my lil impact on it, and the bolt snapped!

Now i get to find the PN for that sucker....

It’s just an exhaust band clamp. They go by OD of the pipe. Measure the pipe, order a genetic clamp off Amazon, have it tomorrow. Don’t make everything so complicated!

 

[Just Fishing]

It’s just an exhaust band clamp. They go by OD of the pipe. Measure the pipe, order a genetic clamp off Amazon, have it tomorrow. Don’t make everything so complicated!

But i like overthinking things!
Also keeping it factory is easier usually.

+ there is a retainer strap holding that b in place.
I was thinking to just take the new band clamp and remove the bolt and the beveled bolt thing from it...

 

[wjburken]

Well, this was yesterday, but my wife called me from work yesterday morning and asked if I knew what the ticking sound was that was coming from the motor. She put the phone near the motor and I was pretty sure it was a collapsed lifter. As it is currently not an option for me to tear into the motor, I had her take it to the local GMC dealer in the town she works in, that we have been using for over 10 years. I trust Loras, the Service Manager, and his techs as they do good work, communicate very well, treat my wife very respectfully when she has to drop off the vehicle and are just stand-up guys. Also, even though we have never bought a car from them, they have always provided a loaner vehicle when needed. They confirmed that it was #6 AFM lifter that gave up the ghost. I bought the vehicle with 85K on it and it has 135K on it now. I do know that the lifters were all replaced at 43K under warranty by the previous owner. Right now I am having them just replace the passenger side lifters so that it $650 in parts and 10 hrs at $85/hr shop rate. Gotta love my small town, locally owned dealer and their reasonable shop rates. Wish I had the time to do this myself, as I would do both sides for less money, but my schedule doesn't support that at the moment so there I am. I am also having them take care of a broken motor mount that I have been putting off for a little bit as well.

UPDATE:

Got the vehicle back from Rotman's in Maquoketa, IA on Saturday. Final bill for passenger side lifters and associated consumables and gaskets, along with replacing the driver's side motor mount, taxes and shop supplies was just under $1800.00. That also included a free loaner car to use while it was in the shop.

 

[Tonyrodz]

UPDATE:

Got the vehicle back from Rotman's in Maquoketa, IA on Saturday. Final bill for passenger side lifters and associated consumables and gaskets, along with replacing the driver's side motor mount, taxes and shop supplies was just under $1800.00. That also included a free loaner car to use while it was in the shop.

That's actually a pretty good price considering.

 

[Just Fishing]

Y to Muffler clamp, Found it!!

Pardon Our Interruption...

$24 + tax...
Not the most expensive bolt, but it's up there.

And I have an appointment with the welder today.

I wish I took more time looking at possible sensor locations, but I was on a roll
Thinking I'll have him put it as close to the original up stream sensor as possible.
Noticed that seems to have the most amount of room...

And after i had the Y out, I found my sensor bungs..
I have two, one came with my AEM, and the other with the innovate.
AEM bung is way nicer, so I'm going to rock that on the driver side.

Was thinking Maybe I should toss in a passenger side as well...
Never know, it might be handy to have.
Too bad I didn't spend time looking at clearances on that side (or both sides for that matter).

Oh well, this Y is a temporary solution anyways.
2009 OEM cats, high mileage, Not correct for a 6.0 or 6.2 (small), and lots of oil burning through the PCV...

 

[wjburken]

That's actually a pretty good price considering.

I was thinking the same thing. I was anticipating $1800 with just the lifters and being somewhere north of $2000 with the motor mount added on. I actually called and confirmed that they had everything.

 

[Tonyrodz]

I was thinking the same thing. I was anticipating $1800 with just the lifters and being somewhere north of $2000 with the motor mount added on. I actually called and confirmed that they had everything.

A pleasant surprise for once.

 

[Rocket Man]

I was thinking the same thing. I was anticipating $1800 with just the lifters and being somewhere north of $2000 with the motor mount added on. I actually called and confirmed that they had everything.

Sounds like they did you a solid with the motor mount. Too bad they wouldn’t put an H3 mount on instead of the liquid filled one because it will most likely leak eventually. But you’re good to go and that’s awesome. It’s unfortunate that there’s a few known defects with this platform- the lifters, motor mounts, dash, etc that, if eliminated, would make these trucks bulletproof. It’s kind of annoying but it could be worse for sure. Glad you got her back on the road!

 

[wjburken]

Sounds like they did you a solid with the motor mount. Too bad they wouldn’t put an H3 mount on instead of the liquid filled one because it will most likely leak eventually. But you’re good to go and that’s awesome. It’s unfortunate that there’s a few known defects with this platform- the lifters, motor mounts, dash, etc that, if eliminated, would make these trucks bulletproof. It’s kind of annoying but it could be worse for sure. Glad you got her back on the road!

Exactly!

Funny you mentioned the cracking dashes. My wife pointed out a crack that has started on the dash yesterday. Guess I hit the trifecta this past week!

 

[lowh07]

Headlights received again... one of the bowls hit the lens again and chipped it...... not as bad as the first time. Turns out it’s an issue with Eagle Eyes QC, and the amount of slop in the adjustment. Which is annoying because EE is apparently the best aftermarket option. The beam is too low and I can’t even adjust it because it’s touching the lens. Going to pull the whole front end apart again, and see if I can take up the slop while turning the adjustment. What a PITA. They won’t be doing any paint work on nnbs housings in the future because of this... he’s sending a partial refund. It makes no sense to send them back again because that probably won’t help. Hopefully I can make it work.

I still need to wire in the switchbacks too.

 

[Rocket Man]

Headlights received again... one of the bowls hit the lens again and chipped it...... not as bad as the first time. Turns out it’s an issue with Eagle Eyes QC, and the amount of slop in the adjustment. Which is annoying because EE is apparently the best aftermarket option. The beam is too low and I can’t even adjust it because it’s touching the lens. Going to pull the whole front end apart again, and see if I can take up the slop while turning the adjustment. What a PITA. They won’t be doing any paint work on nnbs housings in the future because of this... he’s sending a partial refund. It makes no sense to send them back again because that probably won’t help. Hopefully I can make it work.

I still need to wire in the switchbacks too.

View attachment 363898

Why not bake it open and fix the adjustment? It’s a PIA but I’ve opened a set on my Silverado twice without issue, and they’re painted too. I did all the work myself including a single pair on mini H1 retros and painting the first time, then a second set on mini H1’s for a quad setup the second time. Just buy some retrobutyl from TRS in case you need to add some when you go to bake them closed.

 

[lowh07]

Why not bake it open and fix the adjustment? It’s a PIA but I’ve opened a set on my Silverado twice without issue, and they’re painted too. I did all the work myself including a single pair on mini H1 retros and painting the first time, then a second set on mini H1’s for a quad setup the second time. Just buy some retrobutyl from TRS in case you need to add some when you go to bake them closed.

I will do that if needed

 

[lowh07]

Edit: I think I found it in a few places now if anyone needs it...

PN 15853945

Does anyone know where to find a new middle row dome light lens online? I’m not having any luck. Seems like something that should be easy to get. I’ll be installing all white led interior lights this week and I broke the tabs on that lens a while back

 

[iamdub]

Exactly!

Funny you mentioned the cracking dashes. My wife pointed out a crack that has started on the dash yesterday. Guess I hit the trifecta this past week!

Drill a tiny hole right at the very end of the crack and epoxy it all back together. I'd suggest the black J-B Weld Plastic Bonder since it matches the factory Ebony dash so well. But if your interior is any other color- good luck!

Fixing the crack and adding support under the center (folded spare rag or towel) will really help to prevent further cracking.

 

[Doubeleive]

800 miles round trip got her to 13mpg from 9.6 lol
Hwy 101 was not crowded at all like I expected