2004 6.0 NV4500 Tahoe

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pwtr02ss

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Wouldn't more contact area on a prepped surface help?

I typically roll into it from a light on the street, basically, let the slack out on the clutch and let the drivetrain get some load on it sometimes from a 1 or 2 mph roll then nail the throttle. Just didn't want to roll and trip the beams early, I figured if I set the shocks upright it would take a decent hit. I think leaving in second with enough rpm to not bog is going to be key but I could be wrong.

I sorta no lift shift on the 1-2 but third likes to grind so I fully lift on the 2-3. I think my buddy no lift shifted on one of his run and when he banged third it let out a nice puff of clutch smoke. let me upload that vid
If you can get the launch down on the street pretty good and have a solid launch on the track, everything out from 20' is sticking to the track more than needed, thus slowing you down. The smallest possible tire to hook the best is ideal, hence the skinny front combo.

If you were running a sticky tire, could could dump it from 5K let it rip. The benefit to the sticky wide tire outweighs the negligible effects.

Also, it doesn't matter when you cross the beam, once the light turns green, you can sit there for 15 seconds and it will still record your ET. Another trick I learned, barely trip that second staging light. You will have a slightly faster ET vs rolling as deep it as it will let you.

If its got enough ass to leave in second, give it a shot. You'll be saving a shift but if it bogs any, it might hurt it.
 
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Dantheman1540

Dantheman1540

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If you can get the launch down on the street pretty good and have a solid launch on the track, everything out from 20' is sticking to the track more than needed, thus slowing you down. The smallest possible tire to hook the best is ideal, hence the skinny front combo.

If you were running a sticky tire, could could dump it from 5K let it rip. The benefit to the sticky wide tire outweighs the negligible effects.

Also, it doesn't matter when you cross the beam, once the light turns green, you can sit there for 15 seconds and it will still record your ET. Another trick I learned, barely trip that second staging light. You will have a slightly faster ET vs rolling as deep it as it will let you.

If its got enough ass to leave in second, give it a shot. You'll be saving a shift but if it bogs any, it might hurt it.
It's funny I feel like it actually hooks a bit better on the street maybe I didn't burn out enough to get all the water off.

I'm gonna slowly look around for a drag pack, might be able to talk Denali buddy into buying something he's loaded.
Yea, that dude was showing no mercy to the tires:Big Laugh:
He was told if he does that again he has to leave lol.
 

pwtr02ss

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It's funny I feel like it actually hooks a bit better on the street maybe I didn't burn out enough to get all the water off.

I'm gonna slowly look around for a drag pack, might be able to talk Denali buddy into buying something he's loaded.

He was told if he does that again he has to leave lol.
Street tires are really ******* the surface prep lol.

Even on a non-prepped surface, a track should work better than a street but sometimes that ass dyno doesn't lie. Its def got more in it than that. Keep practicing and take it back out before it gets to hot and humid.

Also, take anything extra out. No sense in blasting off with 100 extra pounds. I was only have joking about the floor mats and all that....



HARD ON is censored....
 
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Dantheman1540

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Street tires are really ******* the surface prep lol.

Even on a non-prepped surface, a track should work better than a street but sometimes that ass dyno doesn't lie. Its def got more in it than that. Keep practicing and take it back out before it gets to hot and humid.

Also, take anything extra out. No sense in blasting off with 100 extra pounds. I was only have joking about the floor mats and all that....



HARD ON is censored....

Yeah I did have my winch, straps, and tools in the back because I didn’t want to leave them on my trailer unattended.

I think practice would help a ton, I still had a bunch of stuff I want to try but ran out of time. Can’t wait to go back now why did I wait 8 years since I went last.
 

pwtr02ss

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Yeah I did have my winch, straps, and tools in the back because I didn’t want to leave them on my trailer unattended.

I think practice would help a ton, I still had a bunch of stuff I want to try but ran out of time. Can’t wait to go back now why did I wait 8 years since I went last.
Just practice a lot on the street before you go back. Its got a lot more in it so my number still stands
 
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Dantheman1540

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Just practice a lot on the street before you go back. Its got a lot more in it so my number still stands
I shall do that! Just gonna give it a good look over this weekend before I put it back to DD status. Coming from aircraft I’m very inspection heavy especially after a night of abuse. I don’t suspect anything is wrong but stuff has a way of getting looser than it should sometimes.
 
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Dantheman1540

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@pwtr02ss did you notice the bit of axle movement on the video where it spun really bad in 1st?

Any idea what my weak point in rear axle stability would be? Or maybe it was just good ole G80 funky monkey stuff?
 

pwtr02ss

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@pwtr02ss did you notice the bit of axle movement on the video where it spun really bad in 1st?

Any idea what my weak point in rear axle stability would be? Or maybe it was just good ole G80 funky monkey stuff?
Looked to me like a little wheel hop. You may have bounced off the bump stop and unloaded the rear suspension a little. Are your rear shocks adjustable? Are they set to soft, medium, or firm? If they are easy to adjust, I think you typically adjust the rear to as firm as possible so it "shocks" the tire and works better. Front, depends on your goal. If you need a little weight transfer to assist in traction, soften them up a bit. Don't soften enough that when you launch, the rear is slamming into the bump stop though. That can unsettle everything and then you get wheel spin or wheel hop.

@randeez or @iamdub may be more inclined to help resolve that than I am. I've never messed with the suspension on these trucks, other than basic replacements.
 
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Dantheman1540

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Looked to me like a little wheel hop. You may have bounced off the bump stop and unloaded the rear suspension a little. Are your rear shocks adjustable? Are they set to soft, medium, or firm? If they are easy to adjust, I think you typically adjust the rear to as firm as possible so it "shocks" the tire and works better. Front, depends on your goal. If you need a little weight transfer to assist in traction, soften them up a bit. Don't soften enough that when you launch, the rear is slamming into the bump stop though. That can unsettle everything and then you get wheel spin or wheel hop.

@randeez or @iamdub may be more inclined to help resolve that than I am. I've never messed with and suspension on these trucks, other than basic replacements.

All the shocks have 18way adjustable compression and rebound setting and I had them set to the 600hp or less drag racing setting which I will have to look at the chart to see what that is. I don’t think it hit the bumps because it has several inches of up travel but anything is possible.

the best way to learn, is to have everyone laugh at you the whole time

first gear on the nv4500 is stupid low right? probably going to hurt you the most trying to go 10' and making an immediate shift

People laugh at me all the time anyway cause what dumb a$$ would try to make a 3ton brick go fast with a transmission from a dump truck.

Yes, first gear is low (5.61-1) but the 3.42s and 33"s help it some, I can do about 30mph in first if I push it over 6,500 but I seem to short shift out of first a lot. I do think Second is gonna be the fastest just because of the time it takes to shift and the fact second gear is basically the same as the first gear in a 4l60 (3.06 in the 4l60 and 3.04 in the nv where the 80E is 2.48)
 
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Dantheman1540

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iamdub

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@pwtr02ss did you notice the bit of axle movement on the video where it spun really bad in 1st?

Any idea what my weak point in rear axle stability would be? Or maybe it was just good ole G80 funky monkey stuff?

Looked to me like a little wheel hop. You may have bounced off the bump stop and unloaded the rear suspension a little. Are your rear shocks adjustable? Are they set to soft, medium, or firm? If they are easy to adjust, I think you typically adjust the rear to as firm as possible so it "shocks" the tire and works better. Front, depends on your goal. If you need a little weight transfer to assist in traction, soften them up a bit. Don't soften enough that when you launch, the rear is slamming into the bump stop though. That can unsettle everything and then you get wheel spin or wheel hop.

@randeez or @iamdub may be more inclined to help resolve that than I am. I've never messed with the suspension on these trucks, other than basic replacements.

In the 16.5 3k launch vid, watch the 19 second mark repeatedly. I saw very little weight transfer. Traction broke from the shock of the clutch dump before anything could get moving. You're gonna have to get the shocks set better and find that sweet spot between dumping and slipping. Then, after you roast the clutch and glaze the flywheel, you'll have to re-learn all over again with the new performance clutch.
 
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Dantheman1540

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In the 16.5 3k launch vid, watch the 19 second mark repeatedly. I saw very little weight transfer. Traction broke from the shock of the clutch dump before anything could get moving. You're gonna have to get the shocks set better and find that sweet spot between dumping and slipping. Then, after you roast the clutch and glaze the flywheel, you'll have to re-learn all over again with the new performance clutch.
I thought the same thing even in the moment I never felt that squat back feeling. Guess I need a bunch of street practice and shock trial and error. I do have 2 spare clutches in the shelf one of which is fairly aggressive but I really don’t think the clutch is in any danger they are massive
 
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Dantheman1540

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I hate selling stuff used, I posted a very detailed post about the LTZ20s and Nitto 420s and had well over 30 people message about them. I have 10pics in the main ad and took another dozen upon request before a guy came and bought them. I met him, and left him alone to look at the tires while I finished up something at work since he came to my work to check them out. He asked me all sorts of questions and has a cool truck he was gonna put them on. We agreed on $500 I helped him load them and he went in his way.

An hour later after he got home he noticed there are two plugs in one tire and another has a minor dented lip on the inside of the wheel. I did not specifically count the plugs and post that in the ad nor did I zoom in on the dent and point it out. However they balance perfectly and hold air forever I never have to air them up.

Anyway he’s acting like he wants his money back and should be compensated for his time because I was untruthful and he had to drive an hour one way to get there. I feel like he had his chance to look at them and of course there are minor flaws with a set of ten year old wheels and 3 year old tires. He should maybe try them out and see they are fine and brighten his outlook on life.
 

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I thought the same thing even in the moment I never felt that squat back feeling.

It's such a quick and hard shock that you see the fenders and hood rattle. Misdirected/wasted energy.


Guess I need a bunch of street practice and shock trial and error.

Yas. Hence "Test-and-Tune" days at the track!


...I really don’t think the clutch is in any danger they are massive

"Challenge accepted"
 

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I hate selling stuff used, I posted a very detailed post about the LTZ20s and Nitto 420s and had well over 30 people message about them. I have 10pics in the main ad and took another dozen upon request before a guy came and bought them. I met him, and left him alone to look at the tires while I finished up something at work since he came to my work to check them out. He asked me all sorts of questions and has a cool truck he was gonna put them on. We agreed on $500 I helped him load them and he went in his way.

An hour later after he got home he noticed there are two plugs in one tire and another has a minor dented lip on the inside of the wheel. I did not specifically count the plugs and post that in the ad nor did I zoom in on the dent and point it out. However they balance perfectly and hold air forever I never have to air them up.

Anyway he’s acting like he wants his money back and should be compensated for his time because I was untruthful and he had to drive an hour one way to get there. I feel like he had his chance to look at them and of course there are minor flaws with a set of ten year old wheels and 3 year old tires. He should maybe try them out and see they are fine and brighten his outlook on life.

If this was how it worked, then fast food/other crappy restaurants, dollar stores, Harbor Freight, etc. would be out of business for paying us to drive to their locations to purchase something which we later decided was unsatisfactory.

It's "Buyer beware/items sold as-is, where-is/no warranties, expressed or implied".


84345564.jpg
 
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Dantheman1540

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It's such a quick and hard shock that you see the fenders and hood rattle. Misdirected/wasted energy.




Yas. Hence "Test-and-Tune" days at the track!




"Challenge accepted"
Dang I didn’t notice the hood and fenders until you said that!
Yeah already half planning a trip back but gonna focus tuning efforts on buddies Denali. Doesn’t mean I can’t do shock tuning tho!
If this was how it worked, then fast food/other crappy restaurants, dollar stores, Harbor Freight, etc. would be out of business for paying us to drive to their locations to purchase something which we later decided was unsatisfactory.

It's "Buyer beware/items sold as-is, where-is/no warranties, expressed or implied".


View attachment 361224
Gotta hate them, I think I’ll just mute notifications I don’t use fb anyway
 

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