What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Rocket Man]

The piece below ya armrest that holds in 2 bolts that attach the door panel to the door. This piece is from a Tahoe, but the Denali’s and Escalades are smaller.

You can look them up on gmpartsgiant, here’s a link to a 2010 Escalade door interior trim parts list.

Door Trim/Side Front-Driver - 2010 Cadillac Escalade ESV 2WD

GMPartsGiant.com offers genuine Door Trim/Side Front-Driver for 2010 Cadillac Escalade ESV 2WD with great price and fast delivery.

www.gmpartsgiant.com

 

[Doubeleive]

You have leather inserts in the doors?

yep, there was a change made in 2010 so 07-09 and 10-14 are different

 

[Geotrash]

yep, there was a change made in 2010 so 07-09 and 10-14 are different
View attachment 357048

Well I’ll be dipped in $hit. Never noticed that before:

 

[Rocket Man]

Well I’ll be dipped in $hit. Never noticed that before:

Yep. I found that out when I was doing an interior swap in my 08 Silverado from LT to LTZ. The LTZ is the same as the Esky I believe but the change in door panels kinda messed with me when buying used ones. I like the older style better, the new ones remind me of flabby arms.

 

[Kee Fuller]

You can look them up on gmpartsgiant, here’s a link to a 2010 Escalade door interior trim parts list.

Door Trim/Side Front-Driver - 2010 Cadillac Escalade ESV 2WD

GMPartsGiant.com offers genuine Door Trim/Side Front-Driver for 2010 Cadillac Escalade ESV 2WD with great price and fast delivery.

www.gmpartsgiant.com

Those are the parts i have currently. So i need the 07-09 ones cause i have the interior door reflector in the bottom corner of the door

 

[Rocket Man]

Those are the parts i have currently. So i need the 07-09 ones cause i have the interior door reflector in the bottom corner of the door

Then change the vehicle to a 2008 Escalade. Here.

Door Trim/Side Front-Driver - 2008 Cadillac Escalade AWD

GMPartsGiant.com offers genuine Door Trim/Side Front-Driver for 2008 Cadillac Escalade AWD with great price and fast delivery.

www.gmpartsgiant.com

 

[Denali2k8]

KeylessOption Keyless Entry Remote Control Car Key Fob Replacement for Cadillac Escalade ESV, EXT https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010O0L7E...abc_NSPYVBM1RKVS2495WQ4J?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Will this work on my 08 Yukon Denali??

 

[Mickey_7106]

Bought these blank center caps, but i can't get over the ugly dot in the center. Gonna return these. Anyone bought blanks that don't have this blemish?

 

[Rocket Man]

KeylessOption Keyless Entry Remote Control Car Key Fob Replacement for Cadillac Escalade ESV, EXT https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010O0L7E...abc_NSPYVBM1RKVS2495WQ4J?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Will this work on my 08 Yukon Denali??

I don’t know but read the reviews, it sounds like it’s junk.

 

[iamdub]

Bought these blank center caps, but i can't get over the ugly dot in the center. Gonna return these. Anyone bought blanks that don't have this blemish? View attachment 357062

View attachment 357063


View attachment 357064

My guess is you're supposed to transfer your existing Caddy emblem over to it. I have no input on caps intended to be left blank. I Googled images for "escalade center cap blank" and saw plenty that didn't have the dot in the pics.

What can you tell me about that corner baffle speaker?

 

[Mickey_7106]

My guess is you're supposed to transfer your existing Caddy emblem over to it. I have no input on caps intended to be left blank. I Googled images for "escalade center cap blank" and saw plenty that didn't have the dot in the pics.

What can you tell me about that corner baffle speaker?

Nothing, other than it came with the house. Don't even know if it works. It's not in my way so i don't bother with it

 

[Kee Fuller]

Then change the vehicle to a 2008 Escalade. Here.

Door Trim/Side Front-Driver - 2008 Cadillac Escalade AWD

GMPartsGiant.com offers genuine Door Trim/Side Front-Driver for 2008 Cadillac Escalade AWD with great price and fast delivery.

www.gmpartsgiant.com

prolly have to find a junkyard. Looks like it’s discontinued.

 

[Rocket Man]

prolly have to find a junkyard. Looks like it’s discontinued.

Sucks.

 

[cmatt]

Just hit 150k miles and did an oil change. Looks like my weeping oil pan gasket has graduated and turned into an official leak. Found some drips on the concrete when I moved the burb. Pulled the inspection cover and it doesn’t appear to be coming from the rear main.

So, do I tackle the pan gasket or have it done? There’s a place in town where you can rent a shop bay with a lift and tools. Or do I handle in my carport? I’ll have to drop the front diff. Regardless, what else should be done while I’m in there? O-ring, pickup tube, flux capacitor…? Links to threads and vids are appreciated.

Cleaned up the drips, but you can see where it’s migrated onto the bell housing. Also seeping out the sides.

And yes, I’ve replaced the oil cooler line gasket. The original still looked good and the drip there is coming from the pan gasket above.

Rear main seal doesn’t appear to be leaking.

Been using this since I got the burb at 132k and have been happy.

 

[Fless]

Just hit 150k miles and did an oil change. Looks like my weeping oil pan gasket has graduated and turned into an official leak. Found some drips on the concrete when I moved the burb. Pulled the inspection cover and it doesn’t appear to be coming from the rear main.

So, do I tackle the pan gasket or have it done? There’s a place in town where you can rent a shop bay with a lift and tools. Or do I handle in my carport? I’ll have to drop the front diff. Regardless, what else should be done while I’m in there? O-ring, pickup tube, flux capacitor…? Links to threads and vids are appreciated.

Cleaned up the drips, but you can see where it’s migrated onto the bell housing. Also seeping out the sides.
View attachment 357090

And yes, I’ve replaced the oil cooler line gasket. The original still looked good and the drip there is coming from the pan gasket above.
View attachment 357091

View attachment 357092

Rear main seal doesn’t appear to be leaking.
View attachment 357093

Been using this since I got the burb at 132k and have been happy.
View attachment 357094

I've had trouble finding Rotella Gas Truck oil locally of late, and have had to order it online. Wish it would get back in stock.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Seems like alot of people like the Rotella oil.

 

[Rocket Man]

I've had trouble finding Rotella Gas Truck oil locally of late, and have had to order it online. Wish it would get back in stock.

There’s a lot of stuff that I can’t find in my local stores lately. I went to Ace Hardware yesterday to buy an old work electrical box so I can add a cable outlet in my MBR and they were out of almost all electrical boxes so I thought, no biggie I’ll go to Home Depot where they have a huge inventory. I’m standing there looking and I see zero old work boxes- no singles, doubles, triples, deep, shallow…the entire area where they were supposed to be was empty. I pulled out my phone and ordered a set of 3 (couldn’t buy a single) from Amazon. It will be here today. They’re the only retailer that seems to be keeping everything in stock. As I was walking out of HD, I went by the construction adhesive section and it was empty as well, and there were several people on phones calling their bosses to tell them. I see Amazon has it in stock.

 

[Rocket Man]

Just hit 150k miles and did an oil change. Looks like my weeping oil pan gasket has graduated and turned into an official leak. Found some drips on the concrete when I moved the burb. Pulled the inspection cover and it doesn’t appear to be coming from the rear main.

So, do I tackle the pan gasket or have it done? There’s a place in town where you can rent a shop bay with a lift and tools. Or do I handle in my carport? I’ll have to drop the front diff. Regardless, what else should be done while I’m in there? O-ring, pickup tube, flux capacitor…? Links to threads and vids are appreciated.

Cleaned up the drips, but you can see where it’s migrated onto the bell housing. Also seeping out the sides.
View attachment 357090

And yes, I’ve replaced the oil cooler line gasket. The original still looked good and the drip there is coming from the pan gasket above.
View attachment 357091

View attachment 357092

Rear main seal doesn’t appear to be leaking.
View attachment 357093

Been using this since I got the burb at 132k and have been happy.
View attachment 357094

On my NBS I was able to just pull the mounting bolts on my diff and let it hang to do the pan. I pried it down a little and wedged a 2x in for extra clearance. Pretty sure it’s the same on a NNBS. O-ring is all you really should want to do while you’re in there. Pickup tube, you can just clean the screen. Don’t forget you need a bit of RTV at the 4 corners where there’s a small gap.

 

[cmatt]

Rotating/cleaning the wheels/tires this morning. Found this at the passenger side UCA. Does it appear to be the OE ball joint or boot going bad? No play that I can replicate. No tear that I can see in the boot either. These appear to be the factory originals. With 150k on the clock, it may be time to replace the control arms anyway to freshen up the bushings.

Passenger

Driver

 

[George B]

There’s a lot of stuff that I can’t find in my local stores lately. I went to Ace Hardware yesterday to buy an old work electrical box so I can add a cable outlet in my MBR and they were out of almost all electrical boxes so I thought, no biggie I’ll go to Home Depot where they have a huge inventory. I’m standing there looking and I see zero old work boxes- no singles, doubles, triples, deep, shallow…the entire area where they were supposed to be was empty. I pulled out my phone and ordered a set of 3 (couldn’t buy a single) from Amazon. It will be here today. They’re the only retailer that seems to be keeping everything in stock. As I was walking out of HD, I went by the construction adhesive section and it was empty as well, and there were several people on phones calling their bosses to tell them. I see Amazon has it in stock.

But, but, there are no supply chain issues. This is a good thing…