Growing up doesn't have to suck

[Tonyrodz]

Instead of a long typed response, here is the jest of it:

"The bypass valve – otherwise known as a pressure relief valve – is an integral part of the oil filter. The valve is designed to open when the oil filter becomes clogged or when the oil is too thick. This allows the oil to bypass the filter through a center tube. The oil then goes straight to the engine to prevent starvation and damage.
If the bypass valve doesn’t open when needed, the filter will swell and eventually burst. When this happens, the engine looses all oil pressure. The end result is either extensive engine damage, or complete engine failure. Choosing a high-quality oil filter for your vehicle helps to prevent this from happening."

But remember, if it does open and it does bypass, the filtration is lost but if the filter is clogged enough to allow bypass, it is not filtering anyway.

Got it. Makes sense. Thx Ron.

 

[OR VietVet]

Manufacturers, if I remember right, will have different pressure points where they want their OE filter to bypass at.

 

[iamdub]

In the scheme of things and considering the possible damage of a by-pass problem, WIX IMO, wins hands down. For me it has served me well all those years and were on my Harley's as well. I still say also, that the time frame between changes is very important and should be less than any of the oil companies say. I consider all my driving as severe and still stick to a low mileage and short time between changes. It is, IMO, the cheapest insurance I can recommend to take care of the engine.

Word. OVER-changing oil will never pose an engine problem and will always be cheaper than damage caused by not changing frequently enough. As documented here, I'm in no danger of going too long on an OCI! I'm using fully synthetic diesel engine oil that's designed to be ran for many times my OCI in an environment many times harsher and filthier than what I subject it to.

I bet that if I could run my used oil through a series of filtration modules to remove the contaminants and get it back to just the oil, it could be put right back into the engine with no loss of protection.

 

[iamdub]

Instead of a long typed response, here is the jest of it:

"The bypass valve – otherwise known as a pressure relief valve – is an integral part of the oil filter. The valve is designed to open when the oil filter becomes clogged or when the oil is too thick. This allows the oil to bypass the filter through a center tube. The oil then goes straight to the engine to prevent starvation and damage.
If the bypass valve doesn’t open when needed, the filter will swell and eventually burst. When this happens, the engine looses all oil pressure. The end result is either extensive engine damage, or complete engine failure. Choosing a high-quality oil filter for your vehicle helps to prevent this from happening."

But remember, if it does open and it does bypass, the filtration is lost but if the filter is clogged enough to allow bypass, it is not filtering anyway.

Right. With running such clean oil, there's no way my filter would ever be clogged. So, technically, I don't need a bypass. My concern is the bypass, at any rated activation psi, can still leak a little. Maybe even be fully open at higher RPM and max oil pressure (70+ psi for me).

 

[Rocket Man]

According to that chart, the K&N has a much better micron rating. I didn't even notice this when I was focused on finding a no-bypass or high-psi bypass filter.

There are some conflicting perspectives here. Assuming these figures are factual, which would you prefer? The filter that catches smaller particles but could more easily allow bypass (no filtration at all) or a filter that can't catch as small of particles, but still keeps the oil going through the filter?

How easily and/or often does a filter go into bypass? How small of particle is still okay to circulate through the engine?

BTW, according to the labels, the K&N HP-2011 filters I was using were made in USA.

I feel if a filter goes into bypass you're already in trouble IMO. I mean in theory it will save your engine, but if your filter is so plugged that it bypasses, and now the bypass opens, you're gonna keep on driving it until the engine dies a slow death. Because you let the filter get that plugged up and your oil is baaaaaaad.

 

[alpha_omega]

According to that chart, the K&N has a much better micron rating. I didn't even notice this when I was focused on finding a no-bypass or high-psi bypass filter.
How easily and/or often does a filter go into bypass? How small of particle is still okay to circulate through the engine?

BTW, according to the labels, the K&N HP-2011 filters I was using were made in USA.

K&N used to be a California based made in the USA California based company, but has since outsourced some of their products to Mexico and China. However, I think it might just be their motorcycle filters.

Wix was purchased by a Germany company and has only one plant left in the US. Like the others, they may label themselves as made in the USA, BUT that’s not entirely true, or not the case at all with some of them.

So the question still stands…Wix, Mobil 1 or K&N? Given the fact that none of us run dirty oil or let our filters get that clogged, the Mobil 1 filter is a beefier build than the Wix.

Word. OVER-changing oil will never pose an engine problem and will always be cheaper than damage caused by not changing frequently enough.

I bet that…I could run my used oil…it could be put right back into the engine with no loss of protection.

I have a friend with a diesel who would do just that. He would take my 3,000 mile full synthetic Mobil 1 oil that I just drained, clean it (hardly) and then run it in his Ford.
Like you guys, I am a stickler for changing my oil and filter. Every 3,000 miles even with the newer engines/oils recommending 5k, I still stick with the “old method”.

 

[Just Fishing]

Talk about oil and filters.
Recommended purchase is an oil filter cutting tool.
This is the one i have.

Oil Filter Cutter Inspection Tool IMCA NHRA SBC Chevy | eBay

Oil Filter Cutter. If your filter has a protruding lip, you may have to clearance the cutter so that your filter easily rolls on the rollers. Quickly & easily open filter. Razor sharp cutting wheel.

www.ebay.com

it's pretty good, only complaint is with the Mobil 1 filters.
The body's are so thick, i get a slight roll over of the lip.
that sometimes gives me some trouble to pull the filter out of the body unless i grab some pliers and bend the lip out.

That thing saved my crank and possibly my block with my new build.
Told me something was possibly wrong, and to keep a close eye on it.

I don't think i had very long until my crank made contact with the block.

 

[iamdub]

... I'm not one for super high speeds, especially in this brick. I prefer quick acceleration over top speed. So I probably won't be doing this again.

LOL


Ran across this old post of mine while looking for some other info, and immediately thought of one of my many trips to Mexico:

 

[iamdub]

Replaced the aspirator fan- no more growling above my head!

 

[iamdub]

When I did my Big 3 (actually 4), I left all the factory grounds in place and just added the 1/0 to it. This meant my 1/0 was bypassing the RVC sensor. I fixed that today and upgraded it to a Big 5.

Factory grounds going through the RVC sensor:

The 1/0 fits with room to spare:

I wanted to upgrade the body sheet metal ground. My first attempt was to replace the flat braided ground on the driver side with the original 4 gauge main ground. But I couldn't unbolt it from the back of the left bank cylinder head so I just added the 4 gauge to the mix on the other side. I drilled a hole in the pinch of the cowl and bolted the 4 gauge and core support grounds to it using stainless 5/16" hardware. The 4 gauge goes to the factory location- the stud on the front edge of the right bank head:

This is now a Big 5:
1) Alternator to battery positive
2) Battery negative to frame
3) Engine block to frame
4) Body sheet metal to engine block
5) Battery positive to starter

 

[iamdub]

My hood-cowl seal has shrunk (shrank? Shrunken?) over the years. This is how short it is when pushed all the way to one side:

I got one with much less wear (less squashed flat) and shrinkage from a newer Tahoe. I first planned to cut my original one in half and use half of the newer one to make it span fully and firmly. But, the new one was longer and "close enough", so I installed it as-is. This eliminates having a seam where two differently-squashed seals would meet. This is how much less shorter it is, I centered it after this pic:

I then moved on to disassemble the left rear window switch and clean the contacts to restore its operation. Finished up by adjusting the tire air pressures because I want all four to read the same on the DIC.

 

[ivin74]

Replaced the aspirator fan- no more growling above my head!

View attachment 351769

View attachment 351770

What does that fan do?

 

[OR VietVet]

What does that fan do?

I believe it is for auto temp control.

 

[buratito]

Since I finally got the all hose clamps I needed from the salvage yard, I was able to install the heater hose connectors. I definitely wanted this to be done before the engine was back in.


3/4" heater core connectors and 1/2" rear heater core connectors. The hoses to the two nipples on the water pump are 5/8":

View attachment 248936


About 12" each of 3/4" and 1/2" heater hoses and box of 3-way Ts and factory hose clamps (factory from GM, Ford and Honda )
View attachment 248937


Semi-comfy seat on cross member in engine bay:
View attachment 248938


The 1/2" tubes were too close, so I trimmed them down:
View attachment 248939


Minimal, but adequate gap and perfect alignment:
View attachment 248940

where did you buy the Tee connector. what is the part number of the Tee connector.

 

[iamdub]

What does that fan do?

As Ron lead on, it's a fancy temp sensor for the Automatic Climate Control. It has a small fan in it to pull air in through the tiny grille and blow it over a thermocouple (or thermistor?). With age and use, they get dirty and/or worn and the blower wheel makes a groaning or grinding noise. Many people often refer to it as a "speaker or microphone above their head making a buzzing sound".

 

[iamdub]

where did you buy the Tee connector. what is the part number of the Tee connector.

Transitional Hose Tee

Transitional hose tees can be used for custom cooling system hose connections.You must choose the measurements for the three hose sizes A, B and C. Choose A and B from the pulldowns and enter C in the space provided. C sizes could be anything from 1/4” to 2". NOTE: If you need a size not listed...

jagsthatrun.com

I haven't had coffee yet, but I believe you need Size "A" to be 3/4", Size "B" to be 5/8" and Size "C" to be 1/2". I believe shipping is $10.

 

[iamdub]

A couple weeks ago, when I was borrowing those 18" wheels (the "Uggos"), I had to shave a tiny bit off of the ball joint studs to fit them. It was then that I realized that if I ever needed to run my spare on the front, I'd be in for a treat as it's a 17" wheel. I didn't want to chop a half inch off of the stud. I have some 22s on deck with a somewhat oddball size tire- 275/45-22. So, my first plan was to get a spare 22" wheel and that same size tire. It's hard enough trying to find a cheap single wheel, let alone this particular size of tire. Plenty of sets, no singles. It's just a spare, no need to dump $500 on a setup.

I grew a brain cell and compared the 22" tire size I'll be running to the factory 275/55-20 that's found everywhere. Based on the advertised sidewall numbers, the factory 20" is only .6% larger than the 22 I'll be running. The stock spare size is 265/70-17, which is .9% smaller, meaning my planned setup with the 22s and 20" spare would be .3% closer in size than what the factory allows for their road wheel and spare setup. So, I decided I'd be just as suited finding a 20" wheel and stock-size tire, which is a much easier feat.

Day before yesterday, I found a single 20" wheel from a GMC Sierra in great shape on Marketplace. Often times, a single wheel means it was taken off and replaced due to defect or damage and the seller is just trying to get some of their money back, but on a bad wheel. The seller's story was that the dealership diagnosed a vibration as a bad wheel, ordered a replacement, transferred the tire to the new wheel, etc. and it made no difference. They told the guy to keep the new wheel and use the original as a matching spare, which he never bothered to even mount a tire to it. He sold the truck to his nephew, who didn't want the wheel as he was replacing all the wheels with aftermarket.

He lived over two hours away from me. But I took a chance and asked if he, or anyone he knew would be traveling my way anytime soon. As luck would have it, he was headed to Baton Rouge the next day (yesterday), and to a place right off I-10 that was along my route. Convinced that this was fate, we met up and I got the wheel yesterday morning. He was asking $100 and it had been posted for over a week. But, due to the convenience and the fact that it would be a matching wheel, I was fine paying $100.

I'm stoked because it's a factory chrome-cladded wheel, so it's gonna get the treatment my current 20s received. I'll pick a good 275-55/20 Bridgestone Dueler from the handfuls available and have a completely matching set of five de-clads. It'll stay in place as my spare when I'm running the 22s since it's such a close match in size.

De-cladding is a PITA, but I'm kinda looking forward to it. Maybe because it's just one wheel. I'm also not gonna make the rings to snap in a center cap since the winch would probably break the rings out.

 

[OR VietVet]

As Ron lead on, it's a fancy temp sensor for the Automatic Climate Control. It has a small fan in it to pull air in through the tiny grille and blow it over a thermocouple (or thermistor?). With age and use, they get dirty and/or worn and the blower wheel makes a groaning or grinding noise. Many people often refer to it as a "speaker or microphone above their head making a buzzing sound".

More Information for ACDELCO 155632

More Information for GM GENUINE 22834330

 

[Ghost10]

Some "before" pics-


Homemade resonator delete with G8 GT tips:

View attachment 256582


I can't express enough how perfect that one little $30 18" muffler was prior to removing the cats:

View attachment 256583

View attachment 256584


All gutted and section of cross member removed for working space:
View attachment 256585

Damn look at that drive shaft

 

[iamdub]

Damn look at that drive shaft

How you gonna come in here and bump a 16-month-old post to bag on me about my rusty shaft?!

Y'all gonna give me a complex about it.