alpha_omega
Full Access Member
And now you’re thinking outside the box. It’s Monday morning…quit bursting Mikeyss fantasy bubbles with your realism.
Keeping coolant and transmission temps under control when towing in the summer heat
- Thread starter Geotrash
- Start date
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mikeyss
Full Access Member
I believe the triple fan thing comes on the Silverado with the diesel or the 4 cylinder one. I'd like to see it installed, I can't imagine GM made the radiator taller to accommodate them.
Hey, where there's a welder..there's a way to make it work, haha
Hey, where there's a welder..there's a way to make it work, haha
avalonandl
Full Access Member
I think the 2500 truck had a taller core and taller hood in front.
mikeyss
Full Access Member
I meant the 1500 Silverado diesel, I believe it's a 3.0 straight six
alpha_omega
Full Access Member
No ****? I thought that was just some Frankensteined monster someone had built for their race car or something. I’ll have to do some research.
Tallpaulboise2
TYF Newbie
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Took the Yukon out with the trailer. 91 degrees and the first 10 miles were frontage roads. 60 mph and dash temp gauge reads 210. Hit the freeway, up to 65 and the temp raises to 215. Hit some hills and it raided to about 220. Long grade goy it up to an indicated 230 before it dropped off rapidly after cresting and gliding down a 3 mile stretch.
Trans temp never got above 175. Last 2 miles of trip was 15 mph dirt road with 600’ elevation gain. Engine showed 215 and trans 180 when we got to camp. Moving the cooler down was a great move. I am going to take it in to GMC and have them check the fans. My trailer weighs about 5700lb and I can’t believe it should over heat this easily. In town with or without the trailer engine and trans temps are fine.
alpha_omega
Full Access Member
Wow. Im surprised you are getting that high even after moving it down? Are your fins straight and are your cooler and condenser fully cleaned out? Thermostat is working and youve recently done a coolant flush?
OP
OP
Note that 230 on the coolant is still 35ºF on the good side of the normal range. Dexcool won't boil until 265ºF, so I wouldn't describe 230 as overheating, per se. Based on your earlier comments about your fans potentially not both kicking into high makes me wonder if one of your fan motors is simply getting weak. If I were in your shoes, here are the actions I would take, in order:
1/ Verify whether both fan motors are generating full power output, replacing either or both of them with 700w motors with new blades matched to the motors and fan shroud.
2/ As alpha omega suggests, I would clean the radiator fins and the space between the AC condenser and radiator thoroughly.
3/ Repair or replace the baffles on either end of the radiator
4/ Replace the thermostat to eliminate the chance of a flow restriction from one that's only partially opening. When you do this, replace the coolant with new.
5/ Upgrade the radiator to a double row, like a Cold Case.
alpha_omega
Full Access Member
Perfect explanation!
Not trying to knock or nit pick, just thinking about down the road when someone reads this, did we ever end up determining whether all of these style Yuks/Hoes can use two 700W? I remember we discussed the blade count, 7/9 combo the rimmed vs. not rimmed and the shroud, but I wasn’t sure if there was an issue with some of the years having spacial issues or needing programmed (Tech2) in order to run properly.
We need someone to weed through and delete all of our jokes and ramblings, our oops, oh ***** and by the ways, then gather all of the knowledge we have learned, shared, collected, bounced off each other in posts like this or even “What did you do today” style posts and put it into an updated DIY repair guide/part number reference.
Well my '10 has had the fans and passenger side harness repaired
Information I have confirmed on my PPV
- Passenger side harness connector replaced
- Fan shroud assembly, Part # 84302502
- Both fan blade assemblies are 5 blade (rimless)
I just need figure out:
1) Do I just keep the current fan blade assemblies and go with the 700w motors - GM Part 20903474?
2) Add RPO coded "KW5" 220amp alternator - GM part 22949466
3) Explore fan speed settings in HP Tuners and possible alter
Information I have confirmed on my PPV
- Passenger side harness connector replaced
- Fan shroud assembly, Part # 84302502
- Both fan blade assemblies are 5 blade (rimless)
I just need figure out:
1) Do I just keep the current fan blade assemblies and go with the 700w motors - GM Part 20903474?
2) Add RPO coded "KW5" 220amp alternator - GM part 22949466
3) Explore fan speed settings in HP Tuners and possible alter
OP
OP
That's a great point. Given that the K5L cooling package with the 700W motors still runs on the standard alternator and electrical system, I'm inclined to think that Mr. Thompson's experience with his Bose amp cutting out could have been an anomaly caused in part by grounding issues. I wouldn't hesitate to run two 700's, and I believe @mikeyss is doing that.
And good call on the summary. Once we get down to a final 2-3 configs that seem like great options, I'll make a new summary post in the Tech Info section.
OP
OP
I believe that you need to purchase the fan blades that are designed for the 700w motors. On my 2012 at least (5/5 blade fans), there is a different part number for the fan blades intended for 500w vs 700w motors.
Last edited:
Dave, if you could scrape up those part numbers that would be awesome.
OP
OP
Sure. I only bought the parts for the driver's side fan for mine:
Here's the fan blade:
Amazon.com: GM Genuine 20897351 Engine Cooling Fan Blade Kit : Automotive
Buy GM Genuine 20897351 Engine Cooling Fan Blade Kit: Fans - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com
And here's the 700w fan motor:
Amazon.com: GM Genuine 20903474 Engine Cooling Fan Motor Kit : Automotive
Buy GM Genuine 20903474 Engine Cooling Fan Motor Kit: Radiator Fan Motors - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com
Awesome, so in theory......I could just buy them for both sides and be golden?
OP
OP
The passenger side fan is a different diameter and blade count. And I think the motor is a different part number also.
So I can just put in this particular fan blade and motor on the LEFT side of my existing
fan assembly ????????
I purchased a new 7/9 blade assembly last year since what was in there didn't "look" like
oem original. And was under the impression then, that the 7/9 was the shizzle...
But I'd certainly like to keep getting better. So I'd do this if you think it will fit in
my existing fan assembly (or even my old one).
OP
OP
Yep, that’s my understanding. I haven’t done mine yet, but I have the parts on my workbench.
the 7/9 blade rimmed are different circumference on each side and the motors are slightly different design, I just received the "supposedly" 2nd design dual 700w 5 blade fan assembly today and took it apart both sides appear to be identical, I am on the fence if these are actually 700w motors or not the 1st design motors are much beefier. none of the numbers on the motors match anything online, they are bosch but that's about all I can confirm.
mikeyss
Full Access Member
Does the shroud have any numbers on it? If I remember correctly, the 5 blade rimless style has either dual 500w or dual 700 watt motors, and the shrouds have different part numbers.
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