CaptainAmerica1
Full Access Member
Lose*
What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter phattyford
- Start date
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iamdub
Full Access Member
Preach. It's the same effect as an I-beam, but rolled into a cylinder. For an I-beam, the strength to resist bending over a long span comes primarily from the height (depth?) of the vertical wall between the two narrower horizontal top and bottom pieces. It's not from the thickness of that vertical wall.
the_tool_man
Full Access Member
Exactly. An I-beam is optimized to concentrate as much material as far apart as possible to minimize weight and provide lots of stiffness against bending.
Sparksalot
Elite Member
Recovery is unpossible.
Sparksalot
Elite Member
I've been thinking about some kind of hood louvers to put on thecopcar to help with heat soak when I'm moving slowly off the beaten path.
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
For non split loom, i have been using heatshield products and DEI.
DEI also has some great Velcro heat shielded wire looms.
For split loom, i got a big spool from amazon when i did my boat and yup, you sure get what you pay for!
For the most part, i was just running primaries and lights through the cabin and not anything that would get direct sun or exposed to heat from the engine, so i was fine with it.
Mostly i just used a quality electrical tape to wrap the loom for extra protection (3M).
It was all very heavily shielded marine grade stuff anyways, the plastic loom was just an extra level of protection.
Buy some name brand stuff, better if you can find some with good reviews.
Convoluted Tubing, Wire Looms, and Wire Sleeves | Summit Racing
most of what summit carries should be gtg for the most part.
And reminds me, i need to order some of this crap.
I have a few little sections under the hood i would like to clean up while everything is apart...
Charlie207
Full Access Member
An electric aux. fan will probably be a much better option if your "off the beaten path" requires you to drive slow.
The passive louvers aren't going to allow for much airflow at low speeds.
Sparksalot
Elite Member
I'm not after additional airflow per se. I've got the big fans on the radiator already. I'm thinking about the heat captured under the hood, and allowing for convection to happen.
Well after 2 year I finally got the stuff to finish installing DL3 style mirrors on the Tahoe
The new 1aauto mirrors
When I started this project I found a set of DL3 mirrors and the switches. Total cost $50’ish buck. But the passenger side arm was broke and later found out the motor was broke
So after trying to walk past both vehicles in the garage I was done with avoiding mirrors
(My 17 Mega cab has power folding mirrors)
To get all to work I had to use my factory switch bezels. Passenger side was a direct swap. Drivers side I hade to modify it for the 09 switch to fit
A lot happier now. Now to wait on the sub setup to get in.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The new 1aauto mirrors
When I started this project I found a set of DL3 mirrors and the switches. Total cost $50’ish buck. But the passenger side arm was broke and later found out the motor was broke
So after trying to walk past both vehicles in the garage I was done with avoiding mirrors
(My 17 Mega cab has power folding mirrors)
To get all to work I had to use my factory switch bezels. Passenger side was a direct swap. Drivers side I hade to modify it for the 09 switch to fit
A lot happier now. Now to wait on the sub setup to get in.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
George B
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
How about a cowel type hood?
Sparksalot
Elite Member
That would do it.
Mmm... cowl hood. Do want.
Of course, if you have a cowl hood, it’s mandatory that there be a supercharger underneath said cowl.
You’re welcome.
RooTBeeRthe1st
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Also because racecar!
lowh07
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You could remove the black plastic cowl piece around the windshield wipers... might not look great but I’ve seen it done for ventilation
Sparksalot
Elite Member
The rear edge of the hood meets the metal cowl structure. Removing the gasket would get a small gap, but not much. The plastic wouldn't change it.
lowh07
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ah I guess I was thinking of the gasket. I heard Jeremy from Fasterproms mention it
swathdiver
Full Access Member
Lower ball joints are being a pain to remove. Hammer didn't work. Heat didn't work. Pickle Forks didn't work. Now using a ball joint separator from Harbor Freight. Worked fine on a stuck upper ball joint but we have been grinding away on the tool to make it fit the lower ball joint and ran out of time. The girls are busy with their social schedules you know!
So at this point the struts and half shafts are out, calipers hanging on S-hooks and the engine oil cooler lines are disconnected but not removed. The front differential has been lowered but I think we're doing to pull it tomorrow to make more room. The front bumper cover and lights are off, we found the leak that the dealer said was not there, the lower connection on the condenser is leaking green oil everywhere. Bought an AC O-Ring and Seal kit from O'Reilly and had them refund me the condenser I ordered.
Bought a canopy from Harbor Freight and have that over the hood area in case it rains, all exposed connectors are pointed down too. Canopy secured on three corners with old brake rotors.
I forget to check and did not know that the lower control arm bolts and nuts are 15/16ths. 23mm too small, 24mm a little loose. Hopefully they'll come off tomorrow.
Still haven't gotten to the motor mounts or transmission oil cooler lines. Sure wish I was in my twenties again, all of this stuff would have been done already! The Good Lord is giving me patience but I keep wanting more.
So at this point the struts and half shafts are out, calipers hanging on S-hooks and the engine oil cooler lines are disconnected but not removed. The front differential has been lowered but I think we're doing to pull it tomorrow to make more room. The front bumper cover and lights are off, we found the leak that the dealer said was not there, the lower connection on the condenser is leaking green oil everywhere. Bought an AC O-Ring and Seal kit from O'Reilly and had them refund me the condenser I ordered.
Bought a canopy from Harbor Freight and have that over the hood area in case it rains, all exposed connectors are pointed down too. Canopy secured on three corners with old brake rotors.
I forget to check and did not know that the lower control arm bolts and nuts are 15/16ths. 23mm too small, 24mm a little loose. Hopefully they'll come off tomorrow.
Still haven't gotten to the motor mounts or transmission oil cooler lines. Sure wish I was in my twenties again, all of this stuff would have been done already! The Good Lord is giving me patience but I keep wanting more.
As soon as I’m done with crawling underneath this thing on a regular basis, I’ll be hosing down the underside with sheep dip (Fluid Film). I don’t want corrosion to get a foothold. I’ve been a long time user of FF with great results. However that doesn’t stop me from assessing other products. Last year I tried out some WoolWax, which is close to FF but goes on thicker. This project I’m going to try a Cosmoline product in some of the areas exposed to spray from the tires and see how it holds up. Literature indicates it will harden to a waxy consistency. FF never hardens and does get washed away from areas exposed to a lot of spray.
